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PEE  FAO  E. 


The  writer  of  the  following  pages  first  saw  Florida 
in  the  month  of  January,  1880,  when  he  accompanied 
General  Grant  on  his  tour  through  the  State,  as  corre- 
spondent of  the  "  Chicago  Times."  He  had  previ- 
ously either  traveled  or  resided  in  nearly  every  other 
portion  of  the  country,  East,  West,  and  South ;  but  his 
first  impressions  of  the  "  Land  of  Flowers "  were  so 
favorable  that,  his  special  service  as  correspondent  being 
over,  he  returned  thither  with  the  idea  of  making  for 
himself  a  permanent  home  which  should  put  an  end  to 
his  wanderings.  Since  then  he  has  enjoyed  an  extended 
experience  in  the  State,  engaged  in  a  vocation  requir- 
ing visits  to  all  the  more  prominent  places,  and  traveled 
over  its  immense  territory  under  circumstances  the  most 
favorable  for  learning  its  real  resources  and  observing 
the  great  variety  of  its  productions. 

Almost  from  the  beginning,  the  importance  of  writ- 
ing a  book  embodying  the  results  of  his  observation 
and   experience    was  urged   upon   him   by  the   friends 


4  PREFACE. 

■vvhoin  lie  made  in  the  course  of  liis  travels ;  and  his  pe- 
rusal of  the  multifarious  inquiries  addressed  to  the  State 
Bureau  of  Immigration,  at  Jacksonville,  convinced  him 
that  there  is  a  real  demand  for  an  adequate  and  trust- 
worthy descriptive  work  on  Florida.jVVith  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  brief  pamphlets,  written  for  the  most 
part  in  the  interest  of  some  land  scheme  or  other  spec- 
ulative enterprise,  there  appears  to  be  really  no  publi- 
cation (except  the  Bureau  of  Immigration  pamphlet) 
which  answers  practical  questions  in  a  practical  man- 
ner;/and  even  those  books  designed  for  transient  vis- 
ifors  have  been  rendered  wofully  inadequate  and  anti- 
quated by  the  progress  that  has  been  achieved  during 
the  past  few  years. 

The  present  volume  is  the  result  of  personal  obser- 
vation and  study;  and  is  written  with  a  sincere  desire 
to  do  justice  to  all  parts  of  the  State,  and  to  describe 
accurately  and  with  precision  its  real  resources  and  ad- 
vantages. It  is  written  for  Florida  entire,  and  not  in 
the  interest  of  any  corporation,  speculative  scheme,  or 
special  locality.  Having  no  land  to  sell,  and  no  personal 
interest  of  any  kind  to  further,  the  author  has  found 
little  difficulty  in  following  Othello's  injunction,  "  naught 
to  extenuate,  nor  set  down  aught  in  malice." 

Where  so  many  have  aided  him  with  information 
and  suggestions,  the  author  feels  that  it  is  almost  in- 
vidious to  name  only  a  few  ;  yet  he  can  not  forbear  thus 
explicitly  acknowledging    his   obligations  to   the    Hon. 


PREFACE.  5 

Setli  French,  late  Commissioner  of  the  Bureau  of  Im- 
migration ;  to  Captain  Samuel  Fairbanks,  Assistant  Com- 
missioner ;  and  to  Mr,  "VYilliam  Bloxham,  the  present 
Governor  of  the  State.  Last,  but  not  least,  he  vrould 
oifer  his  acknowledgments  to  Mr.  C.  H.  Jones,  of  ^i^ew 
York  City,  who  rendered  him  invaluable  aid  in  the  ar- 
rangement and  revision  of  his  work. 

G.  M.  B. 

September,  1881. 


TESTIMONIAL. 


It  is  hnown  to  the  undersigned  that  the  author,  Mr. 
George  M.  Barhour,  has  traveled  over  almost  the  ivhole 
of  Florida,  under  circumstances  peculiarly  advantageous 
for  enabling  him  to  acquaint  himself  with  the  varied 
resources  of  the  State,  and  luith  the  attractions  which  it 
offers  to  the  three  classes  to  ivhom  his  work  is  addressed 
— Tourists,  Invalids,  and  Settlers.  Our  hnoivledge  of 
his  abilities  as  a  writer  on  Florida  subjects,  and  of  the 
opportunities  he  has  enjoyed  in  preparing  his  hook,  are 
such  that  we  can  commend  it  as  at  once  trustworthy  and 
comprehensive — greatly  superior  in  these  respects  to 
anything  hitherto  published  descriptive  of  the  entire 
State  and  its  soil  and  productions. 

W.  D.  Bloxham, 

Governor  of  Florida. 

George  F.  Drew, 

Ex-  Governor  of  Florida. 

Seth  French, 

Ex- Commissioner  of  Immigration. 

Samuel  Fairbanks, 

Assistant  Commissioner  of  Immi- 
gration. 


COKTEISTTS. 


CHAP.  fAGE 

I.  —  QCESTIONS    AND   AxSWEES .11 

II. — Natural  Divisions  of  Flokida       ....         17 
III. — A  Trip   tiirough   the    State    with   Commissioner 

French 30 

IV. — A   Trip   through    North  Florida  with    Captain 

Fairbanks 67 

V. — Jacksonville,  Ferxandina,  and  St.  Augustine         .     92 

VI.— The  St.  John's  River 107 

VII. — The  Ocklawaha  River,  Silver  Springs,  and  Ocala      125 
VIII. — The  Indian  River  Region  and  the  Inland  Lakes  136 
IX. — The  Gulf  Coast  and  Key  West         ....  145 
X. — The  Sanford  Grant  and  Orange  County     .         .       155 
XI.— Random  Sketches. — An   Ocean    Voyage  in  Wintep.; 
THE    Atlantic    Coast   of   Florida  ;    the   South- 
west Coast 173 

XII. — Climate  and  Health. — Suggestions  for  Invalids  184 
XIII. — Retrospective. — An  IIistorioal  Sketch  ,  .  .  209 
XIV. — Florida  Folks  and  Families  ....       225 

XV.— Orange-Culture 239 

XVI. — -Other  Tropical  and  Semi-tropical  Fruits  .       252 


8  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  PAGE 

XVII. — Field    and   Fak.m   Peoducts. — Vegetable-Gakdex- 

IXG 204 

XVIII.— Live-Stock 278 

XIX.— Fur,  Fix,  axd  Featiie:: 285 

XX. — Ixsects  axd  Keptiles 290 

XXI. — Opportuxities  for  Labor  axd  Capital  .         .         .  294 

XXII. — A  Word  of  Feiexdly  Advice  to  New-comers     .       298 

XXIII. — Routes  to  axd  through  Florida    ....  303 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTEATIOI^S. 


A  Florida  Orange-Grove 
Lighthouse  on  Florida  Keys 
Hammocks 
The  Banana 


Frontispiece. 


18 
19 
43 


A  Tj'pical  Country  Hotel  In  Florida — "  Ocklawaha  House,"  Pcndryvillc     4G 

A  Pair  of  "Crackers" 55 

View  on  the  Escambia  River,  near  Pensaeola  ...  '70 

Street-Scanc  in  Pensaeola  .  .  .  .  .  .72 

View  of  Bay  from  Shot  Park,  Navy-Yard    ....  '73 

Specimens  of  Pensaeola  Fish      .  .  .  .  .  .     75 

Ruins  of  Fort  McRae,  with  Fort  Pickens  in  the  Distance     .  .  76 

Fort  Barrancas   .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .77 

Street-Scene  in  Jacksonville  .....  93 

A  Cluster  of  Palmettoes  .  .  .  .  .  .97 

Street  in  St.  Augustine         ......  100 

St.  Augustine  Cathedral  ......  102 

The  Convent-Gate     .......  103 

Entrance  to  Fort  Marion  .  .  .  ,  .  .105 

Mouth  of  the  St.  John's        .  .  .  ,  .  .109 

Mrs.  Stowe's  Residence  .  .  .  .  .  .  .112 

Entrance  to  Hart's  Orange  Grove    .  .  .  .  .114 

Forest  on  the  Ocklawaha  .  .  .  .  .  .120 


10  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATION'S. 

PAGE 

A  Kiver  rost-Office  .  .  .  .  .  .  .128 

The  Lookout       .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .129 

Silver  Spring  .......  132 

A  Sudden  Turn  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .138 

Looking  across  Indian  River  .  .  .  .  .137 

Tiie  Cabbagc-Pahn  .  .  .  .  .  .  .151 

Key  West     .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .153 

A  Country  Cart  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .228 

Out  for  a  Drive         .......  230 

Orange-Trees       .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .240 

The  Fig        .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  255 

A  Pineapple  Plant  .  .  .  .  .  .  .256 

The  Date-Palm  .  .  .  .  .  .  .258 

Sugar-Mill  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .266 

A  C^-press-Shingle  Yard        ......  273 

Florida  Pine-Barrens       .......  280 

A  Hunter's  Camp     .......  288 


QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS.  13 

is  hardly  equaled,  and  is  certainly  not  surpassed,  by  any 
other  section  of  equal  area. 

This  fact  in  regard  to  Florida  is  usually  overlooked 
by  those  who  derive  their  ideas  from  the  hasty  conclusions 
of  transient  winter  visitors.  Each  so-called  "  season  "  wit- 
nesses an  influx  of  thousands  of  these  visitors,  in  search  of 
health  or  "  on  pleasure  bent,"  usually  wealthy,  and  equipped 
with  more  prejudices  than  their  well-filled  traveling-bags 
would  contain.  Their  chief  desire  is  to  find  an  elegant 
hotel,  having  "  all  modern  conveniences  "  ;  and,  once  estab- 
lished there,  to  secure  some  cozy  nook  on  a  broad  veran- 
da, where  they  may  watch  the  fruits  and  flowers  growing 
in  the  open  air,  breathe  the  soft,  balmy  air,  and  lazily  en- 
joy all  the  luxury  and  delights  of  June  in  January.  For 
reci'eation,  they  ride  to  the  nearest  orange-groves,  or  in- 
dulge in  a  moonlight  sail,  or,  if  a  little  more  adventurous 
and  "masculine,"  take  a  few  quiet  fishing-trips,  or  hunt 
quail  and  duck.  Once,  at  least,  during  their  stay,  they 
make  the  "  grand  tour "  by  the  regulation  route — up  the 
St.  John's  to  Palatka,  Enterprise,  and  Sanford,  up  the 
darkly-mysterious  Ocklawaha  (very  few,  on  this  excursion, 
even  leaving  the  boat),  then  down  the  river  again  and  over 
to  St.  Augustine,  where  the  longest  stay  is  apt  to  be  made, 
as  its  many  points  of  interest  and  its  animated  social  life 
render  St.  Augustine  peculiarly  attractive  to  the  average 
pleasure-seeker.  This,  in  the  great  majority  of  instances, 
is  the  full  extent  of  their  study  and  observation  of  the  char- 
acteristics and  resources  of  Florida ;  and,  such  being  the 
case,  it  can  hardly  be  regarded  as  surprising  that  they  should 
represent  it  as  a  pleasant  enough  place  of  resort  in  winter 
for  invalids,  but  a  hot,  unwholesome  region  in  summer, 
poor  in  soil,  arid  of  aspect,  the  haunt  of  alligators,  reptiles, 
and  insects,  with  nothing  especially  good  in  it  but  oranges. 

It  need  hardly  be  pointed  out,  however,  that  the  true 
capabilities  of  a  great  State  can  not    be  dealt  with  ade- 


;14,  FLORIDA. 

quately  in  this  summary  fashion  ;  and,  as  a  matter  of  fact, 
Florida  has  a  soil  in  whic-h  can  l)o  grown  every  variety  of 
fruit,  flower,  garden-vegetable,  field-crop,  or  fcn-cst  prod- 
uct, that  grows  in  any  temperate  or  semi-tropical  region 
of  the  world.  Every  one  has  heard  of  its  fabulous  yield 
of  oranges,  lemons,  and  the  like  ;  and  tlu;  stories  told  on 
this  head  are  not  always  exaggerated.  I  have  seen  groves 
of  orange-trees  which  jsroduced  from  two  hundred  to  four 
thousand  dollars  to  the  acre,  and  know  of  an  acre  of  pine- 
apples that,  within  two  years  after  the  trees  Avere  cleared 
from  its  surface,  yielded  the  owners  (two  bright  young 
Xew-  York  lads,  by-the-way)  eighteen  hundred  dollars. 
But  these,  and  such  as  these,  by  no  means  exhaust  the 
list  of  valuable  products  which  Florida  yields  to  the  cul- 
tivator. I  have  seen  fields  of  wdieat  ripening  in  January 
that  produced  twenty-eight  bushels  to  the  acre  ;  corn  that 
produced  in  the  same  month  seventy  bushels  to  the  acre  ; 
sugar-cane  that  yielded  one  hundred  and  sixty  dollars 
net  profit  to  the  acre  ;  common  Irish  potatoes  producing 
two  hundred  bushels  to  the  acre  ;  fields  of  rice  that  paid 
a  net  profit  of  two  hundred  dollars  an  acre  ;  and  cassava 
that  netted  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  acre.  Water- 
melons and  garden-vegetables  grow  rapidly,  attain  great 
size,  are  of  excellent  quality,  and,  Avhere  convenient  to  city 
markets,  or  to  lines  of  transportation,  pay  the  producer 
from  one  hundred  to,  one  thousand  dollars  per  acre.  Of 
garden- vegetables  three  and  even  four  crops  are  some- 
times taken  from  the  same  tract  within  twelve  months  ; 
and  of  the  entire  list  of  strange  or  familiar  farm  and 
garden  products,  fruits,  and  flowers,  you  may,  in  a  trip 
through  the  State,  find  each  and  every  one  growing  in 
abundance.  The  largest  peach-tree,  undoubtedly,  in  Amer- 
ica, is  near  Orange  City,  in  Volusia  County,  with  a  sju-ead 
of  branches  over  seventy  feet  in  diameter  ! 

Nor  is  this  all.     I  have  seen  bean-vines  in  their  thix'd 


QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS.  15 

year  bearing  as  vigorously  as  when  first  planted  ;  pears 
growing  on  vines  ;  peas  growing  on  trees  ;  and  plants 
growing  on  nothing  at  all — the  latter  being  the  common 
air-plants.  Of  live-stock,  I  have  seen  as  large,  fine,  fat 
swine,  and  as  neat  cattle  and  sheep,  as  in  Vermont,  Kew 
York,  or  Illinois  ;  and  they  can  be  raised  and  kept  in 
good  condition  at  so  small  a  cost  that  comparison  with 
Northern-raised  stock  is  absurd. 

The  climate  of  Florida  in  the  winter  months  is  simply 
delightful,  and  the  summers  are  about  as  endurable  as  in 
most  other  portions  of  the  United  States.  The  summer 
of  1880  was  said  by  all  to  be  the  hottest  for  many  years, 
and  the  winter  of  1880-'81  to  be  the  coldest  ;  yet  I  can 
aftirm  from  the  sure  basis  of  personal  experience  that  they 
were  both  healthy  and  agi'eeable,  even  to  a  new-comer. 
It  seems  absolutely  impossible  that  any  human  being,  or 
any  living  creature  able  to  move  about,  should  really  suffer 
from  either  cold  or  heat,  or  from  hunger,  in  Florida.  It 
is  asserted  (and  meets  with  no  dispute)  that  no  case  of 
starvation,  of  freezing,  of  sunstroke,  or  of  hydrophobia, 
was  ever  known  in  the  State  ;  and  local  epidemics  have 
never  been  heard  of. 

Consider  the  terribly  cold  wealhcr  of  the  long,  dreary 
winter  season  throughout  the  Xorth  ;  the  suffering  it 
causes  ;  the  many  deaths  among  the  poor,  perishing  for 
want  of  a  little  friendly  warmth.  Consider  also  the  cases 
of  sunstroke,  the  suffering  and  deaths  caused  directly  or 
indirectly  by  the  heat,  in  those  same  regions  during  the 
summer  ;  and  the  still  more  sorrowful  cases  of  actual  star- 
vation for  lack  of  the  plainest  food  in  many  of  the  large 
cities.  Then  contemplate  the  advantages  of  this  favored 
clime,  where  food — even  such  articles  as  arc  regarded  as 
luxuries  in  other  localities — may  be  had  in  abundance, 
for  very  little  cost  or  labor,  and  where  a  genial  tempera- 
ture prevails  at  all  seasons  ! 


IG  FLORIDA. 

]5ut  there  is  one  tiling  to  be  remembered  in  connec- 
tion with  all  this — and  it  is  forgotten  oftener  than  would 
be  supposed  :  even  Florida  is  not  the  garden  of  Elden,  and 
a  man  can  not  live  even  here  like  the  lilies  of  the  field, 
"which  toil  not,  neither  do  they  spin.*'  Florida  soil  and 
climate  can  and  will  do  a  great  deal  ;  but  living  without 
labor  is  not  possible,  and  here  as  elsewhere  the  great  law 
prevails,  that  in  the  sweat  of  his  brow  shall  man  eat  his 
bread.  The  true  advantage  which  Florida  offers  is,  that 
by  little  labor  can  much  comfort  be  enjoyed,  and  the  bet- 
ter directed  the  labor  the  greater  the  comfort.  To  those 
wdio  have  but  little  cajiital  (or  none),  and  who  are  anx- 
iously seeking  for  a  home  with  all  the  comforts  of  life,  I 
believe  that  this  State  offers  the  best  chances  of  any  in 
our  country. 

Finally,  as  a  compendious  answer  to  the  many  inqui- 
ries upon  the  subject  that  have  come  to  my  knowledge, 
I  would  say  that  a  settler  in  Florida — whether  he  comes 
as  a  capitalist,  as  a  farmer,  or  as  a  laborer — can  live  Avith 
more  case  and  personal  comfort,  can  live  more  cheaply, 
can  enjoy  more  genuine  luxuries,  can  obtain  a  greater  in- 
come from  a  smaller  investment  and  by  less  laboi-,  and  can 
sooner  secure  a  competency,  than  in  any  other  accessible 
portion  of  North  America. 


CHAPTER  11. 

NATURAL    DIVISIONS    OF    FLORIDA. 

As  I  have  already  remarked,  Florida  is  a  very  large 
State,  containing  nearly  sixty  thousand  square  miles  (59,- 
268).  From  north  to  south  it  stretches  450  miles — from  a 
temperate  to  a  tropical  clime.  Washed  along  its  entire 
eastern  border  by  the  equable  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream, 
which  always  pours  its  pure  salt  breezes  over  the  peninsula, 
and  by  the  tropically  warm  Avaters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
on  much  of  its  western  boundary,  it  possesses  a  variety  of 
climate,  soil,  and  products,  such  as  can  be  found  nowhere 
else  save  in  Italy,  which  enjoys  a  similarity  of  geographi- 
cal conditions. 

Though  its  extreme  length  from  the  Pordido  River  to 
Cape  Sable  is  about  700  miles,  its  average  breadth  is  less 
than  90  miles,  and  in  shape  it  is  a  long  and  narrow  penin- 
sula, extending  southward  into  the  Atlantic  and  pointing 
toward  Cuba,  Havana  being  only  110  miles  from  Key 
West.  On  the  southeast  it  is  separated  from  the  Bahamas 
by  the  Straits  of  Florida.  The  peninsula  proper  termi- 
nates on  the  south  in  Cape  Sable  ;  but  a  remarkable  chain 
of  rocky  islets,  known  as  the  Florida  Keys,  begins  at  Cape 
Florida  on  the  eastern  shore,  extends  southwestward  nearly 
200  miles,  and  ends  in  the  cluster  of  sand-heaped  rocks 
called  the  Tortugas,  from  the  great  number  of  turtles  for- 
merly frequenting  them.  South  of  the  bank  on  which  the 
Keys  rise,  and  separated  from  them  by  a  navigable  channel, 
is  the  narrow  and  dangerous  coral  ridge  known  as  the  Flor- 


II 


FLORIDA. 


ida  Reef.     The  entire  State  is  comprised  between  latitude 
24°  30'  and  31°  north,  and  longitude  80°  and  87°  45'  west. 


LiGUTHOUSE   ON    FlOKIDA   KeY8. 


In  the  aggregate  Florida  possesses  a  coast-line  of  more 
than  1,150  miles,  but  on  this  long  stretch  of  seaboard  there 
are  only  a  few  good  harbors.  The  principal  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  are  St.  Augustine,  Fernandina,  Port  Orange,  and 
Jacksonville  (on  the  St.  John's  River)  ;  those  on  the  Gulf 
coast  are  Pensacola,  Appalachicola,  St.  Mark's,  Cedar  Keys, 


^^ATURAL  DIVISIONS. 


19 


Tampa,  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  Key  West.  The  latter  is 
one  of  the  most  important  naval  stations  of  the  republic, 
owing  to  its  commanding  situation  at  the  entrance  of  the 
most  frequented  passage  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
chief  rivers  are  the  St.  John's,  which  furnishes  nearly  1,000 
miles  of  water  navigation  ;  the  Indian  River,  a  long,  nar- 
row lagoon  on  the  eastern  coast ;  the  Ocklawaha,  the  Appa- 


A  Hammock. 


lachicola,  the   Ocklockonnee,   the   Perdido,   the   Suwanee, 
and  the  St.  Mary's.     The  Withlacoochee,  which  discharges 


20  FLORIDA. 

its  waters  into  the  Gulf,  is  an  important  stream,  as  are  also 
Peace  Creek,  -svliich  falls  into  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  the 
Caloosahatchie,  Avhieh  empties  into  the  Gulf  still  farther 
south.  Kissimmee  River,  connecting  several  of  the  smaller 
lakes  with  Lake  Okechobee,  is  also  a  navigable  stream. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  generally  level,  the  greatest 
elevation  being  but  little  more  than  500  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  this  being  attained  in  only  a  few  places.  The  lands 
are  classified  as  high-hammock,  low-hammock,  savanna, 
swamp,  and  pine.  The  hammocks  vary  from  a  few  acres 
to  thousands  of  acres  in  extent,  and  are  found  in  all  parts 
of  the  peninsula.  They  are  usually  covered  with  a  dense 
growth  of  red,  live,  and  water  oak,  magnolia,  gum,  hick- 
ory, and  dogwood  ;  and  when  cleared  they  afford  a  soil  of 
almost  inexhaustible  fertility.  The  savannas  are  rich  allu- 
vial tracts  on  the  margins  of  streams,  or  lying  in  detached 
areas,  yielding  largely,  but  requiring  ditching  and  diking 
in  ordinary  seasons.  Except  in  the  hammocks,  the  soil  is 
generally  sandy  and  apt  to  be  poor.  Numerous  lakes  dot 
the  surface  of  the  interior,  the  largest  being  Lake  Oke- 
chobee,  which  is  said  to  cover  an  area  of  more  than  G50 
square  miles.  Perhaps  the  most  remarkable  geographical 
feature  of  the  State  is  the  immense  tract  of  marsh  or  lake 
filled  with  islands,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  peninsula, 
called  the  Everglades  (by  the  Indians  "grass-water").  It 
is  about  60  miles  long  by  GO  broad,  covering  most  of  the 
territory  south  of  Lake  Okechobee,  and  is  impassable  dur- 
ing the  rainy  reason,  from  July  to  October.  The  islands 
with  which  its  surface  is  studded  vary  from  one  fourth 
of  an  acre  to  hundreds  of  acres  in  extent,  and  ai'e  usually 
entangled  in  dense  thickets  of  shrubbery  or  vines.  The 
water  of  the  lake  is  from  one  to  six  feet  deep,  and  the  bot- 
tom is  covered  with  a  growth  of  rank  grass  which,  rising 
above  the  surface,  gives  it  the  deceptive  appearance  of  a 
boundless  prairie.     Another  noteworthy  feature  of  Florida 


NATURAL  DIVISIONS.  21 

are  the  subterranean  streams  which  undermine  the  rotten- 
limestone  formation,  creating  numerous  cavities  in  the 
ground  that  are  locally  known  as  "  sinks."  These  are  in- 
verted conical  hollows,  or  tunnels,  varying  in  extent  from  a 
few  yards  to  several  acres,  at  the  bottom  of  which  running 
water  often  appears. 

The  foregoing  is  a  rapid  summary  of  the  geographical 
or  cyclopedic  descriptions  that  are  usually  given  of  Flor- 
ida, and  it  is  as  accurate,  perhaps,  as  such  sweeping  gen- 
eralizations can  be  expected  to  be  ;  yet  when  taken  too  lit- 
erally these  descriptions  are  not  only  inadequate,  but  mis- 
leading. For  the  truth  is,  that  there  are  three  kinds  of 
Florida — three  Floridas,  so  to  speak — each  distinct  in  soil, 
climate,  and  productions  ;  and  it  is  because  of  this  that  the 
people  of  other  sections,  as  they  read  about  the  State  in 
short  newspaper  sketches,  or  in  pamphlets  published  in  the 
interests  of  some  special  locality,  are  apt  to  draw  erroneous 
inferences.  For  instance,  the  winter  of  1S80-'81  was  ex- 
ceptionally severe  everywhere,  making  itself  felt  even  in 
Florida  ;  and  the  Northern  and  foreign  reader,  learning 
that  fruits  were  destroyed,  garden-crops  hopelessly  ruined, 
oranges  frozen  on  the  trees  by  thousands,  in  fact  that  cold 
and  frost  played  havoc  in  Florida  as  well  as  elsewhere, 
doubtless  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  not  much  of  a 
tropical  State  after  all.  Well,  these  things  happened,  just 
as  reported.  The  frost  came,  and  immense  damage  was 
done,  and  much  loss  inflicted.  Yet  the  fact  is  that  the  sec- 
tion thus  visited  included  but  a  small  portion  of  the  State 
— only  the  northern  and  a  portion  of  middle  Florida.  A 
large  portion  of  the  State  Avas  not — and  never  is — visited 
by  frosts  that  kill.  So  that,  while  the  reports  were  true, 
they  were  not  the  whole  truth,  and  tlierc  were  many  dis- 
tricts to  which  they  did  not  apply  at  all. 

The  three  natural  divisions  under  which  Florida  must 
be  described,  if  it  is  to  be  described  accurately,  may  be 


22  FLORIDA. 

classified  as  the  Northern  or  Temperate,  llie  Semi-tropical, 
and  the  Tropical. 

Northern  Florida,  especially  the  Avestern  section  of  it, 
in  soil,  productions,  and  general  appearance,  closely  resem- 
bles regions  much  farther  north.  It  is  a  land  of  live-stock, 
of  corn,  wheat,  cotton,  cane,  jute,  rice,  ramie,  potatoes,  ap- 
ples, grapes,  peaches,  figs,  in  fact  all  the  products  of  fields, 
forests,  and  gardens  of  a  northern  clime,  with  a  few  of  the 
hardier  of  southern  products.  The  tropical  banana,  pine- 
apple, etc.,  do  not  grow  there,  nor  the  orange  or  lemon,  as 
a  crop  for  profit.  Its  soil  is  excellent  ;  its  surface  is  rolling 
and  hilly,  with  grand  forests,  rocks,  springs,  and  streams  ; 
and  the  roads  are  firm  and  good.  It  is  not  tropical,  but  is 
very  picturesque  and  home-like,  and,  to  the  Northern  visit- 
or, is  the  most  agreeable  portion  of  the  State.  Better  live- 
stock, or  crops,  can  not  be  produced  in  the  world,  in  great- 
er abundance,  or  with  less  expense  and  labor,  than  grow 
here  ;  but  they  are  not  tropical  crops.  Such  is  Northern 
Florida,  where  frosts  and  "cold  snaps"  are  not  only  possi- 
ble, but  frequently  occur. 

Middle  Florida  is  that  portion  of  the  State  lying  be- 
tween the  twenty-eighth  and  thirtieth  parallels,  and  may 
be  termed  Semi-tropical  Florida.  It  is  the  region  where 
many  of  the  products  of  both  the  temperate  and  the  tro])i- 
cal  climes  may  be  found  growing  side  by  side  ;  where  the 
orange,  lemon,  fig,  guava,  citron,  grape,  and  all  garden- 
vegetables,  may  be  found  growing,  for  profit,  in  the  open 
air,  all  the  year  round.  It  is  where  cotton,  cane,  rice,  and 
all  field-crops  pay  best,  and  Avhere  wheat,  corn,  and  live- 
stock are  noticeably  less  2:)roductive  than  a  little  farther 
north.  The  soil  here  is  mostly  of  a  sandy  character,  and 
begins  to  have  the  characteristic  appearance  of  a  tropical 
soil ;  while  the  surface  is  generally  flat  and  uninteresting, 
with  occasional  slightly  rolling  tracts.  There  are  but  few 
streams  or  lakes,  except  in  the  central  portion — known  to 


NATURAL  DIVISIONS.  23 

the  residents  as  the  Orange  Lake  region — where  thei'e  are 
several  quite  large-sized  lakes,  which  are  of  very  attractive 
appearance. 

Large  orange-groves  are  found  growing  in  all  parts  of 
this  region,  and  thousands  of  trees  are  being  set  out 
yearly.  Hundreds  of  the  settlers  there — especially  along 
the  line  of  the  Transit  Railroad  (that  runs  from  Fernan- 
dina  to  Cedar  Keys)  and  its  branches — in  the  vicinity  of 
Starke,  Waldo,  Gainesville,  and  of  Ocala  and  Lcesburg, 
are  engaged  in  raising  vegetables  of  all  kinds  for  the 
Northern  markets.  Thousands  of  crates  of  green  peas, 
tomatoes,  beans,  cucumbers,  onions,  cabbages,  cauliflower, 
spinach,  celery,  lettuce,  beets,  etc.,  and  car-loads  of  water- 
melons, are  gathered  and  shipped  to  all  points  North  in 
January,  February,  March,  and  April.  It  is  an  industry 
that  has,  in  a  few  years,  grown  to  great  proportions,  and, 
when  the  season  is  at  all  favorable,  repays  those  engaged 
handsomely.  In  many  cases  profits  of  several  hundreds 
of  dollars  (upward  of  a  thousand  dollars  are  known  of  in 
several  cases)  have  been  made  in  a  single  season,  from  an 
acre  or  but  little  more,  of  some  special  crop,  that  for- 
tunately ripened  and  reached  the  market  at  the  right 
moment.  Strawberries  here  grow  abundajitly,  and  with 
proper  care,  and  culture  yield  immense  crops,  repaying 
wonderful  profits.  I  know  of  several  cases  where  the 
clear  profit,  netted  fi'om  about  an  acre,  was  almost  fabu- 
lous. This  is  rapidly  becoming  a  leading  crop  or  industry 
of  the  State. 

Semi-tropical  Florida,  while  not  very  attractive  in 
scenery,  probably  produces  the  greatest  variety  of  mar- 
ketable and  profitable  crops  of  any  region  in  our  country. 
Although  the  hardier  field-ci'ops  of  the  North,  such  as 
wheat,  corn,  etc.,  and  the  more  delicate  fruit-products  of 
the  extreme  South,  like  the  banana,  pineapple,  etc.,  do  not 
grow  well  in  this  region,  yet  the  variety  of  the  vegetable 


24  FLORIDA. 

kingdom,  including  tlie  hardiest  of  the  Southern  and  the 
tenderest  of  the  Northern  crops,  is  so  great  that  the  Land 
will  always  produce  paying  crops  in  one  form  or  another. 
As  transportation  facilities  increase,  the  opportunities  and 
advantages  will  multiply  ;  for  the  crops  of  this  region 
are  grown  in  that  season,  and  are  of  that  kind,  that  they 
must  be  at  once  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  consumer. 

Without  entering  into  a  lengthy  description  of  its 
climate  or  physical  features,  I  may  say  that  it  is  a  healthy 
region,  and  that  game  and  fish  are  plentiful.  There  is  but 
one  unpleasant  feature  to  mar  its  numerous  advantages  : 
it  is  liable  to  frosts.  They  may  come  any  winter — and 
may  not  in  a  dozen  years — but  a  visit,  when  it  comes,  is 
very  apt  to  destroy  your  hopes  of  profit  for  that  season. 
Of  oranges  and  such  fruits,  in  this  semi-tropical  belt,  the 
farther  south  the  better  ;  every  mile  north  is  a  step  toward 
greater  risk.  You  can  not  get  too  far  south — that  is,  if 
you  find  good  soil — but  you  can  easily  get  too  far  north, 
even  for  semi-tropical  products. 

South  Florida  comprises  all  that  region  of  mainland 
and  innumerable  keys  or  islands,  great  and  small,  lying 
south  of  the  twenty-eighth  parallel,  and  is  the  really,  truly 
tropical  Florida — the  Italy,  the  Spain,  the  Egypt,  of  the 
United  States.  In  this  region  frosts  rai'ely  come,  and 
every  fruit,  flower,  shrub,  plant,  or  product,  that  grows  in 
any  tropical  region  of  the  world  grows,  or  can  be  grown, 
here.  Either  on  its  Atlantic,  breezy,  rocky  coast  ;  its  hot, 
torrid,  south  end  shores,  or  its  balmy  Gulf  coast,  or  within 
its  vast  interior — the  famous  Everglades  region — in  all 
these  prolific,  tropical  soils  can  something  of  profit  be 
grown  ;  though,  of  course,  the  farther  south  the  more 
surely  can  the  really  tropical  products  be  counted  upon. 
It  is  the  region  of  the  pineapple,  banana,  cocoanut,  guava, 
sugar-apple,  bread-fruit,  sugar-cane,  almond,  fig,  olive,  and 
all  the  innumerable  list  of  tropical  fruits. 


NATURAL  DIVISIONS.  25 

The  great  Everglades  region  includes  much  of  the 
mainland  of  this  part  of  the  State.  It  is  not  a  swampy 
region,  but  is  a  flat,  prairie  country  very  much  like  Illi- 
nois, only  this  is  covered  with  clear,  pure  water  for  thou- 
sands of  square  miles,  from  three  to  thirty  inches  deep, 
and  studded  with  islands  that  have  a  dense  growth  of 
palmetto,  cypress,  pine,  bay,  cedai',  oak,  hickory,  gum, 
magnolia,  and  all  such  timbers.  These  island  fastnesses, 
by-the-way,  are  the  homes  of  the  remnant  of  the  once 
powerful  Seminole  Indians.  A  contract  has  recently  been 
made,  and  ratified  by  the  State,  for  the  drainage  of  this 
vast  region,  which,  if  successfully  performed,  will  open  up 
for  settlement  millions  of  acres  of  the  richest  and  most 
valuable  sugar  and  cotton  lands  in  the  world. 

The  regions  along  the  coasts  generally  contain  the  best 
soil  for  the  production  of  vegetables  and  fruits.  It  is 
also  in  these  localities  that  the  sand-fly,  gnat,  mosquito, 
and  such  pestiferous  insects  are  most  abundant.  But  even 
here  there  are  months  when  they  are  not  troublesome  :  it 
is  during  the  midsummer  months  when  they  are  worst, 
and  it  is  the  fact  that  right  in  those  localities  there  are 
places  perfectly  free  from  all  the  insects  that  infest  other 
places.  The  coasts,  especially  on  the  Atlantic,  are  very 
rocky,  and  the  scenery  is  in  general  exceedingly  tropical 
and  interesting.  The  woods,  fields,  air,  lakes,  bays,  and 
rivers  are  filled  with  fur,  fin,  and  feather,  flesh  and  fowl, 
oysters,  turtles,  and  fruits.  The  metropolis  of  all  this 
region  is  Key  West,  itself  on  an  island  just  off  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  peninsula  ;  and  other  prominent 
))laces  are  Indian  River,  Lake  Worth,  Key  Biscayne  Bay, 
Florida  Bay,  Cape  Sable,  Whitewater  Bay,  Oyster  Bay, 
Charlotte  Harbor,  and  Tampa  Bay. 

This  is  the  region  to  go  to  for  purely  tropical  products 
and  for  the  benefits  of  a  summer  climate  in  winter  ;  but 
as  a  place  for  a  continued  residence  the  entire  year,  it  will 


26  FLORIDA. 

not  bo  desirable  until  many  more  settlors  move  in.  It  is 
too  lonely,  and  the  moans  of  trans])ortation  arc  too  few 
and  irregular  ;  but  all  who  live  in  those  regions  are  quite 
unanimous  in  asserting  that  the  climate  is  pleasant  all  tjie 
year,  and  I  have  reason  to  believe  life  is  just  as  pleasant 
there  in  all  seasons  as  anywhere,  cxcoi)t  for  the  lack  of 
society  and  transportation  above  mentioned.  If  large  set- 
tlements, towns,  and  cities  were  founded  there,  and  regular 
communication  opened,  it  would  be  one  of  the  most  de- 
lightful regions  of  America,  healthy  and  agreeable,  while 
the  products  of  its  salt-water  coast,  fresh-water  lakes  and 
rivers,  fields,  gardens,  and  groves  would  furnish  to  man- 
kind, at  all  seasons,  the  best  and  most  delicious  of  all 
foods  that  human  nature  craves. 

"  Like  all  other  tropical  countries.  Tropical  Florida  has 
its  wet  and  dry  seasons.*  The  wet  or  rainy  season  is  dur- 
ing midsummer,  which  has  a  tendency  to  cool  the  atmos- 
phere, and  render  the  summer  months  cooler  than  they  are  in 
the  more  northern  portions  of  the  State  or  in  other  portions 
of  the  South.  During  the  rainy  season  nearly  the  whole 
country  is  flooded,  the  country  being  so  flat  and  level  that 
the  water  does  not  flow  off  readily.  A  great  portion  of  the 
country  requires  ditching  and  draining,  and,  when  some 
systematic  method  shall  be  adopted  to  let  off  the  surplus 
water  during  the  rainy  season,  this  portion  of  the  State  will 
prove  the  mest  productive  part  of  the  South.  It  has  but 
few  swam])s  or  marshes,  unless  you  consider  the  Everglades 
a  marsh.  The  Alpativkee  Swamp,  upon  the  head-waters  of 
the  St.  Lucie  River,  is  the  only  swamp  of  any  magnitude  in 
Tropical  Florida,  and  this  part  of  the  State  has  less  swamps 
than  northern  Wisconsin  or  Michigan,  The  country  east 
and  south  of  the  St.  John's  River  has  more  swamps  than  any 
other  part  of  the  State  through  which  I  have  traveled. 
They  are  principally  covered  with  cypress-timber,  and,  be- 
ing easy  of  access  from  the  St.  Johns  and  Indian  Rivers, 
are  valuable.    There  are  fine  lands  upon  Halifax  River  and 

*  The  following  paragraphs  arc  abridged  from  a  report  prepared  by  a 
resident  at  the  request  of  the  Commissioner  of  the  Bureau  of  Immigration. 


NATURAL  DIVISIONS.  27 

Mosquito  Lagoon,  which,  at  a  former  period,  were  under  cul- 
tivation, but  \vei"e  abandoned  during  the  Indian  war  by  their 
owners.  All  that  portion  of  the  State  wliich  I  have  denom- 
inated Tropical  Florida  is  capable  of  producing  oranges, 
lemons,  limes,  arrow-root,  cassava,  indigo.  Sisal-hemp,  sugar- 
cane, sea-island  cotton,  rice,  figs,  melons  of  all  kinds,  as  well 
as  the  vegetables  grown  in  the  more  northern  States.  The 
country  around  Charlotte  Harbor  and  Biscayne  Bay  is  sus- 
ceptible of  producing  cocoanuts,  cacao,  pineapples,  gua- 
vas,  coffee,  bananas,  plantains,  alligator  peai's,  and  all  the 
fruits  and  plants  of  the  West  Indies.  The  rich  lands  which 
skirt  the  savannas  upon  the  coast  side  are  covered  with 
rotten  limestone,  and  have  mixed  with  the  vegetable  matter 
to  that  extent  that  the  soil  will  effervesce  as  soon  as  it  comes 
in  contact  with  acids.  These  savannas  are  valuable  for 
sugar-plantations,  as  the  sugar-cane  requires  a  large  per- 
centage of  lime,  and  the  climate  is  so  mild  that  the  cane 
will  not  require  planting  oftener  than  once  in  ten  or  twelve 
years.  The  Palma  Chrlstl,  or  castor-bean,  is  here  perennial, 
and  grows  to  be  quite  a  tree.  I  saw  a  number  as  large 
as  peach-trees  twenty  feet  high.  Sea-island  cotton  seems 
to  be  a  perennial  in  this  section  of  the  State,  and  is  of  a  fine 
quality.  Live-oak,  yellow  pine,  cabbage-tree,  and  mangrove 
are  the  most  abundant  forest-trees,  though  formerly  a  good 
deal  of  fustic,  mahogany,  lignum-vita^,  and  braziletto  was  to 
be  met  with  ;  but  these  valuable  species  of  timber  have 
been  so  much  in  demand  for  ship-building  and  commerce 
that  trees  of  any  size  are  rare.  The  most  formidable  obsta- 
cle the  farmer  meets  in  preparing  ground  for  cultivation  is 
the  saw-palmetto  ( Chamcerops  serrulata),  with  plated  pal- 
mate fronds  and  shar])ly  serrate  stipes.  The  roots  cover 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  are  removed  by  the  slow 
process  of  the  grubbing-hoe.  Several  species  of  this  genus 
of  palm  afforded  the  Florida  tribes  food,  wine,  sugar,  fruit, 
cabbage,  fans,  darts,  ropes,  and  cloth.  Some  have  good 
fruit,  like  plums  ;  others  austere,  like  dates.  They  are  now 
chiefly  used  to  make  hats,  fans,,baskets,  and  mats,  with  the 
leaves. 

"  The  land  bordering  on  the  Caloosahatchie  River  and  its 
tributaries  is  accessible  by  vessels  drawing  not  mon^  than 
six  feet,  and  contains  enough  live-oak  to  supply  tlie  navy 
of  the  United  States  for  a  quarter  of  a  century.     Other  val- 


28  FLORIDA. 

uahle  timber  for  ship-building  is  found  in  tlie  same  locality. 
Sucli  being  the  natural  advantages  which  invite  enterpi'ise 
to  this  quarter,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that,  when  its  agri- 
cultural resources  are  more  generally  understood,  southern 
Florida  will  be  covered  with  a  dense  population  of  thrifty 
farmers.  Cuba,  Avith  almost  a  corresponding  climate,  has 
several  hundred  plants  which  serve  as  a  basis  to  her  agri- 
culture, such  as  grains,  farinaceous  roots,  edible  seeds,  veg- 
etables, salads,  sauces,  and  fruits  ;  the  great  stai)les  of  ex- 
portation —  sugar,  coffee,  and  tobacco  ;  plants  for  dyes, 
yielding  oil,  suitable  for  cordage  or  cloth,  yielding  gums 
and  resins,  good  for  tanning  ;  grasses  ;  and  woods  employed 
in  various  uses.  Now,  it  is  well  known  that  most  of  the 
productions  of  Cuba  are  growing  in  south  Florida,  and, 
with  cultivation,  might  be  made  to  rival  those  of  that  cele- 
brated island.  !Sea-island  cotton  of  a  fine  quality  has  been 
produced  in  the  very  center  of  the  })eninsula.  Florida  sur- 
passes Cuba  in  variety  and  delicacy  of  vegetable  culture. 
At  all  seasons  of  the  year  beets,  onions,  egg-plants,  carrots, 
lettuce,  celery,  etc.,  are  produced  with  the  most  indifferent 
culture,  while  everything  that  grows  upon  vines  is  in  abun- 
dance and  in  great  perfection.  Cabbages  and  Irish  pota- 
toes, if  planted  in  October,  produce  well.  The  former  have 
been  grown  at  Fort  JMycrs,  a  single  head  weighing  forty 
pounds.  Cattle,  hogs,  and  poultry  increase  astonishingly. 
Besides  the  above,  tobacco,  pindars,  cow-peas,  and  Irish 
potatoes  yield  abundantly. 

"  The  prairie  lands  are  immense  meadows,  clothed  with 
luxuriant  A'erdure,  interspersed  with  clum])s  of  oak-trees 
and  palmettoes  of  from  five  to  ten  acres  each.  These  lands 
are  looked  upon  as  inferior  for  agricultural  purposes,  and 
are  subject  to  periodical  inundations  during  the  summer 
season — i.  e.,  from  the  beginning  of  June  to  the  25th  of 
August.  They  are  the  favorite  resort  of  vast  herds  of  cat- 
tle and  game,  which  roam  and  graze  upon  the  fragrant  herb- 
age. The  estimate  of  the  amount  of  cattle  is  from  150,- 
000  to  200,000  head,  thereby  forming  one  of  the  principal 
products  of  the  country.  Stock-cattle  sell  for  five  dollars 
per  head,  and  beef-cattle  from  nine  to  thirteen  dollars  per 
head.  Hogs  also  do  well,  and,  when  strict  attention  is  paid 
to  them,  pay  well.  I  have.knowMi  and  heard  of  several 
instances  in  wdiich  the  common  woods-hog,  two  and  a  half 


NATURAL  DIVISIONS.  29 

years  old,  weighed  from  400  to  500  pounds  gross.  Sheep 
and  colts,  with  the  natural  advantages  that  this  country 
possesses,  could  be  made  profitable.  The  forest  abounds  in 
game,  such  as  bears,  panthers,  deer,  cats,  raccoons,  squir- 
rels, and  turkeys,  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  afford  innumer- 
able multitudes  of  fish  and  waterfowl.  There  are  also  nu- 
merous small  lakes  of  pure  water,  some  of  which  are  only 
a  few  rods  in  extent,  while  others  are  from  two  to  ten  miles 
in  length,  filled  with  fish.  These  prairies  are  the  paradise 
of  the  herdsman  and  the  hunter.  The  cattle  require  no 
feeding  during  the  winter,  and  one  can  hardly  travel  over 
the  prairies  a  whole  day  without  seeing  from  fifty  to  one 
hundred  deer." 


CHAPTER    III. 

A    TOUR    OF    THE    STATK    WITH    THE    COMMISSIONER    OF    IMMI- 
ORATION. 

Ix  the  midwinter  of  1879-'80  tlic  Tlon.  Seth  French, 
State  Commissioner  of  Immigration,  decided  to  make  an 
official  tour  through  the  southern  and  middle  regions  of 
the  State,  for  the  purpose  of  better  informing  himself  as 
to  the  general  character  of  the  people,  the  soil,  the  prod- 
ucts, and  the  facilities  for  transportation.  He  kindly  in- 
vited the  writer  to  accompany  him,  and  the  invitation  was 
gladly  accepted.  It  was  a  very  extensive  tour,  and  gave 
us  an  unusually  excellent  opportimity  to  fully  acquaint 
ourselves  with  a  very  large  section  of  the  State.  Mr. 
French — known  to  all  his  friends  as  Dr.  French — is  a  na- 
tive of  New  York,  but  was  for  many  years  a  resident  of 
Wisconsin.  He  is  a  man  of  wealth,  liberal  education,  fine 
presence  and  address,  social  disposition,  thoroughly  inter- 
ested in  his  duties,  and  an  enthusiast  about  Florida — in 
all  respects  just  the  man  for  the  peculiar  and  responsible 
position  which  he  then  held. 

At  noon  of  one  rainy  day  late  in  January,  we  took 
passage  at  Jacksonville  on  the  old,  small,  odd-looking  but 
excellent  steamer  Volusia,  commanded  by  young  Captain 
Lund.  It  is  an  up-river  steamer,  an  old-timei*,  built  espe- 
cially for  navigating  the  narrow,  crooked  channel  of  the 
fai'-up  St.  John's.  The  steamer  was  crowded  with  passen- 
gers, including  an  elderly  lady  and  her  husband,  from 
New  England  ;  a  Massachusetts  school-ma'rm  ;  a  lady  with 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  31 

a  daughter  of  about  sixteen,  from  Ohio  ;  and  a  lady  resid- 
ing in  Jacksonville,  with  three  small  children  and  a  nurse. 
The  latter  was  on  an  excursion-trip,  up  and  return  ;  and 
those  three  children,  that  is  to  say,  the  two  eldest  boys, 
kept  the  entire  party  in  an  uneasy  fidget  for  fear  that  they 
would  or  wouldn't  get  drowned. 

The  morning  of  the  third  day  found  us  in  Lake  Jessup, 
and  from  this  point  the  trip  was  novel  as  well  as  interest- 
ing.* The  St.  John's  above  Lake  Monroe  (tAvelve  miles 
below  Lake  Jessup)  is  little  more  than  a  narrow  and  very 
crooked  creek.  Passing  out  of  Lake  Jessup,  we  at  once 
entered  this  narrow  stream,  and  found  ourselves  in  a  re- 
gion differing  wholly  from  any  other  portion  of  the  St. 
John's  country.  It  is  a  fiat,  level  region  of  savannas,  much 
resembling  the  vast  prairies  of  Illinois.  In  all  directions 
the  eye  ranges  to  the  horizon,  with  nothing  to  break  the 
monotony.  But  though  monotonous,  it  is  not  uninterest- 
ing. These  savannas,  or  prairies,  are  everywhere  densely 
covered  with  hixuriant  growths  of  marshy  grasses  and 
maiden-cane  (the  latter  a  tall,  slender,  waving  growth  of 
the  sugar-cane  species,  in  appearance  closely  resembling 
fields  of  wheat,  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high),  with  occasional 
clumps  of  timber,  consisting  sometimes  of  but  three  or 
four  trees,  and  sometimes  being  several  acres  in  extent. 
The  trees  are  nearly  or  quite  all  of  palmetto,  and  lend  a 
distinctively  tropical  appearance  to  the  scenery.  They 
much  resemble  small  islands  dotted  over  the  surface  of  a 
great  lake. 

Throughout  that  entire  region  were  to  be  seen  hun- 
dreds of  cattle  grazing  on  the  rich  vegetation,  which  is 
said  to  be  greatly  liked  by  them,  and  very  fattening.  One 
herd  alone,  owned  by  J.  M.  Lanier,  numbers  over  twenty 
thousand    head,   and  there  are   several   other  herds   fully 

*  Tho  lower  St.  John's  is  fully  described  in  another  chapter. 


32  FLORIDA. 

as  large.  The  scene,  too,  was  enlivened  by  hundreds  of 
storks,  cranes,  curlews — of  all  gay  coloi's — pelicans,  herons, 
flamingoes,  and  water-turkeys,  nearly  all  varieties  being 
large,  long-legged,  long-necked,  and  long-billed,  in  gay- 
colored  or  snow-white  plumage,  all  quite  strange,  and  cu- 
riously interesting  to  the  Northern  visitor.  Everywhere 
they  could  be  seen  standing  in  motionless  meditation  ;  or, 
if  the  boat  approached  too  close,  they  would  rise  in  a  sin- 
gularly graceful  manner,  and  wheel  off  into  the  distance. 
The  water  everywhere  was  alive  with  ducks  of  several 
varieties,  and  numbering  millions,  probably,  while  alliga- 
tors were  very  plentiful.  This,  indeed,  is  the  real  home 
of  these  great,  hideous,  but  always  interesting  saurians  ; 
here  are  the  largest  size,  the  monsters  of  the  race  ;  often 
of  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  length.  This  portion  of  the  river 
is,  in  fact,  but  little  traveled.  Only  live  or  six  small 
steamers  ply  upon  its  waters,  and  it  is  seldom  that  more 
than  two  steamers  pass  a  given  point  in  one  day  ;  so  the 
beasts  and  reptiles  that  haunt  it  are  but  little  disturbed, 
and  thrive  unmolested  by  mankind. 

The  stream  is  so  narrow  that  the  little  steamer,  only 
about  twenty  feet  wide,  often  brushed  the  tall  cane  on 
both  sides  as  it  passed  along.  Now  and  then  it  seemed  as 
if  the  boat  was  traveling  on  land,  as  it  came  to  some 
sharp  bends  and  pushed  its  way  through  the  tall  grasses 
almost  overarching  above.  And  the  channel  is  so  ci-ooked 
that  in  many  places  the  steamer  would  have  to  jjlow  its 
nose  into  the  bank,  let  the  stern  swing  around  a  little, 
while  a  small  boat,  rowed  by  two  stout  deck-negroes,  would 
tow  the  head  around  the  sharp  bend.  After  hours  of 
travel,  we  could  look  back,  and  within  one  or  two  miles' 
distance  see  the  outlines  of  the  stream  zigzagging  across 
to  the  right  and  left,  like  a  great  letter  S.  At  one  point 
we  could  see  across  five  of  these  curves  within  a  distance 
of  two  miles.     At  intervals  the  stream  widens  into  broad, 


rOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  33 

shallow  lakes,  full  of  fish  and  covered  with  ducks.  These 
lakes  are  the  paradise  of  alligators,  fish,  birds,  and  cattle. 

Late  in  the  afternoon — it  was  supper-time — we  arrived 
at  Salt  Lake,  the  end  of  our  journey  by  the  boat,  having 
traveled  a  distance  of  three  hundred  and  eleven  miles  by 
water,  or  about  one  hundred  and  forty-five  miles  in  a  di- 
rect line,  from  Jacksonville. 

Salt  Lake  is  a  small  lake,  or  series  of  connected  ponds  ; 
prairie  on  all  but  the  east  side,  which  has  a  heavy  growth 
of  timber,  the  commencement  of  a  forest  that  covers  the 
intervening  country  to  the  Indian  River.  On  the  shore 
was  a  solitary  cabin,  the  depot  of  the  mule-power,  wooden- 
railed  road  over  to  Titusville.  We  anchored  some  distance 
from  the  shore,  for  the  water  was  too  shallow  for  the  little 
steamer  to  go  close  in.  At  once  several  of  the  passengers 
took  the  small  boat  and  went  fishing,  having  a  grand  suc- 
cess. In  a  half-hour,  five  men  caught  upward  of  forty-five 
fine,  large  fish.  Others  continued  shooting  away  at  the  ducks 
all  around  us,  killing  great  numbers,  that  were  brought  in 
by  the  small  boats.  Many  passengers  had  been  shooting 
at  ducks  (and  alligators)  all  day  ;  most  of  the  ducks  were 
picked  up  by  a  little  Mexican,  a  member  of  the  crew,  who 
followed  along  behind  in  the  row-boat,  for  the  steamer 
goes  slowly  there,  and  he  took  advantage  of  short  cuts. 

The  next  morning  was  beautiful  ;  all  were  up  early, 
and  soon  the  car  was  seen  at  the  shore  cabin.  Then  two 
or  three  negro  laborers  poled  a  large  lighter  out  to  the 
steamer,  and  we  were  soon  seated  in  the  curious  vehicle. 
We  met  here  a  party  of  several  tourist-sportsmen  return- 
ing from  a  fishing,  turtling,  hunting-trip  on  Indian  River  ; 
also  on  the  lighter  was  a  cargo  of  about  eighty  monster 
sea-green  turtles,  their  weight  marked  on  their  backs. 
These  were  on  their  way  to  the  leading  hotels  of  the 
North.     "Turtle-soup  to-day"  Avas  their  final  epitaph. 

The    journey    on    this   primitive    sort    of   rnilroad   was 


34  FLORIDA. 

through  a  flat  or  slightly  rolling  country,  timbered  with 
pine,  palmetto,  and  oak,  and  it  was  enlivened  by  the  car 
getting  off  the  track  two  or  three  times,  caused  by  the 
breaking  of  the  old  wooden  rails.  On  such  occasions  the 
male  passengers  would  cheerfully  assist  the  very  good- 
natured  conductor  to  re})lace  the  car  and  hunt  up  and 
lay  a  fresh  rail.  All  were  in  good-humor,  and  seemed  to 
consider  it  a  part  of  the  business  of  the  trip — a  sort  of 
side-show  entertainment.  Titusville,  eight  miles  from  the 
boat-landing  on  Salt  Lake,  was  reached  early  in  the  fore- 
noon, and  we  were  at  last  on  the  Indian  River.  The 
town,  or  settlement,  is  the  county-seat  of  IJrevard  County, 
and  has  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants.  It  con- 
tains two  very  neat,  well-kept  hotels  (the  Lund  House  and 
the  Titus  House),  two  or  three  small  stores  or  shops, 
a  warehouse,  and  about  fifty  dwelling-houses.  The  land 
thereabout  is  flat,  and  appears  to  be  rather  \)ooy,  although 
we  saw  excellent  vegetables,  and  a  gi-eat  abundance  of 
flowers,  growing  in  the  gardens  of  its  vicinity.  Across 
the  river — it  is  really  a  sound,  for  it  has  no  current,  and 
has  a  slight  tidal  action — about  a  mile  wide  here,  is  a  strip 
of  land,  and  beyond  this  is  the  ocean.  This  strip  of  land 
varies  from  a  half-mile  to  two  miles  in  width,  alternates 
in  poorest  sand-tracts  and  richest  hammocks,  where  the 
most  prolific  crops  grow,  and  is  alive  with  game.  Here, 
without  much  looking,  may  be  found  bears,  deer,  cougars, 
wild-cats,  panthers,  and  the  wily  lynx. 

The  town  with  its  surroundings  is  quite  tropical  in  ap- 
pearance. The  Titus  Hotel  in  particular  is  built  in  what 
may  be  called  the  tropical  style — a  large  main  building 
with  two  long  wings,  all  one  story  high,  forming  three 
sides  of  a  square  neatly  laid  out  in  a  garden,  and  with 
the  rooms  opening  off  of  the  wide  verandas  like  a  row  of 
houses  in  a  city  block.  The  table  at  once  convinces  the 
guest    that    he    is    in    a   tropical   region,  the  meats  being 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  35 

principally  oysters,  clams,  fish,  sb ark-steaks,  turtle-steaks, 
etc.,  with  many  strange  and  familiar  fruits  and  vegeta- 
bles, all  tropical,  and  fresh  in  January.  Colonel  H.  T. 
Titus  is  a  noted  character,  once  of  great  notoriety  all  over 
the  country,  as  the  fiercest  antagonist  of  old  John  Brown, 
the  Harper's  Ferry  Brown.  These  two,  with  their  follow- 
ers, bad  many  desperate  conflicts  in  the  early  days  of 
"  bleeding  Kansas  "  history.  Colonel  Titus  is  now  old,  a 
helpless  invalid,  and,  curiously  enough,  is^  an  uncompro- 
mising partisan  of  the  political  party  which  he  so  des- 
perately fought  in  its  earlier  history.* 

Early  the  next  forenoon.  Dr.  French,  Mr.  Churchill, 
and  myself,  embarked  on  the  trim  yacht  Mist  for  a  trip 
to  the  sugar-plantation  of  Mr.  Perry  E.  Wager,  situated 
on  a  lagoon  on  Banana  Creek,  six  miles  southeast  of  Titus- 
ville.  It  was  a  delightful  day,  and  the  scenery  was  beau- 
tiful, with  clear  waters  and  myriads  of  ducks  and  strange 
birds — pelicans,  storks,  herons,  etc. 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  the  plantation,  and  as  Mr. 
Wager  and  the  Doctor  were  old  friends,  we  were  all  soon 
discussing  an  abundant  dinner,  after  which  we  walked 
over  the  sugar-cane  patch  of  ten  acres.  It  was  located 
in  a  clearing  of  gigantic  oaks,  magnolias,  etc.,  interspersed 
with  wild-orange  trees  laden  with  fruit,  palmettoes,  and 
the  like,  and  covered  with  great  vines — a  jungle-scene  of 
the  most  tropical  kind.  The  soil  was  jet-black,  and  evi- 
dently of  great  fertility.  Mr.  Wager  remarked  that  the 
bears  and  deer  gave  him  much  trouble  by  getting  into 
his  cane,  of  which  they  are  very  fond.  A  walk  through 
the  cane  was  something  like  a  scramble  through  an  Illinois 
cornfield,  only  worse,  because  the  cane-stalks  were  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  tall,  large  as  your  wrist,  and  often  curled 
and   bent,    making   it   like    climbing   through  a  "  snake " 

*  Since  this  was  written  Colonel  Titus  lias  diud. 


36  FLORIDA. 

fence  to  proceed.  We  cut  three  stalks  of  the  cane,  each 
twenty-one  feet  long,  and  they  had  fifty-two,  lifty-foui-, 
and  fifty-five  joints  res2:>ectively.  The  reader  must  bear  in 
mind  that  each  joint  represents  an  increased  value  of  the 
cane  for  sugar,  and  that  on  the  famous  sugar-plantations 
of  Louisiana  a  stalk  ten  feet  in  height,  or  even  eight,  with 
fifteen  joints,  is  regarded  as  something  to  boast  of. 

Here  the  planter  is  not  obliged,  by  fear  of  frost,  to  cut 
all  the  crop  at  one  date,  thus  requiring  a  large,  hastily 
collected  force  and  much  expense  ;  but  he  can  employ 
three  or  four  hands,  one  at  the  mill,  one  at  the  sirup- 
kettle,  and  two  to  cut  and  haul,  and  with  this  small  force 
can  make  sugar  all  the  year  round.  Nor  does  the  cane 
require  annual  planting  or  cultivation,  hoeing,  etc.,  but 
they  cut  the  stalks  close  to  the  ground,  strip  off  the  leaves 
(which  are  much  like  corn-blades),  and  thickly  cover  the 
ground  with  them,  thus  keeping  down  the  weeds,  and 
securing,  as  they  decay,  a  rich  compost.  The  roots  soon 
"  rattoon,"  and  no  fresh  planting  is  needed  for  ten  or  twen- 
ty years. 

The  sirup  of  fresh  cane  is  very  sweet  (to  me  it  was 
slightly  sickish) — and  how  the  bears,  hogs,  and  darkeys 
do  love  it !  It  is  very  fattening,  and  a  darkey  on  a  sugar- 
plantation  is  always  noticeable  for  his  fat,  oily  appearance. 
Mr.  Wager  grinds  his  cane  in  a  mill  of  three  iron  rollers, 
worked  by  a  mule,  and  boils  the  extracted  juice  into  sirup 
in  a  large,  shallow  kettle,  the  same  as  is  used  in  making 
maple-sugar.  With  the  labor  of  three  negroes,  he  is  able 
to  net  about  sixteen  hundred  dollars  from  ten  acres. 

Returning  to  Titusville,  Ave  embarked  next  day  on  the 
same  yacht  for  a  journey  down  the  Indian  River.  It 
was  a  hazy,  soft,  dreamy,  delicious  sort  of  day,  and,  as 
the  boat  bowled  along  with  a  pleasant  breeze,  we  qui- 
etly and  indolently  enjoyed  it.  At  noon  we  landed  at  the 
home  of  Captain  W.  II.  Sharpe,  a  very  agi'eeable  gentle- 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  37 

man  from  Georgia,  with  a  Yankee  wife,  who  entertained 
us  hospitably,  and  showed  us  his  thrifty  young  orange- 
grove  and  cane-fiekl.  After  an  excellent  dinner,  Captain 
Sharpe  and  Dr.  Holmes,  an  Ohio  gentleman,  now  residing 
here,  joined  our  party  ;  and,  a  bushel  of  oranges  being 
put  on  board,  we  continued  on  our  journey,  reaching 
Rock  Ledge  late  in  the  afternoon  of  a  wonderfully  in- 
teresting day.  Here  we  landed  and  accepted  the  warmly 
proffered  hospitalities  of  Mr.  A.  L.  Hatch.  He  came  here 
several  years  ago  from  Mississippi,  in  search  of  health, 
found  it,  and  in  this  charming  spot  is  rapidly  creating  a 
fine  home.  He  is  an  enthusiast  about  Florida,  and  is  a 
zealous  student  of  the  culture  of  fruits  and  flowers.  We 
all  took  an  extensive  stroll  over  his  lawns,  gardens,  and 
fields,  and  it  was  like  a  visit  to  a  botanical  or  horticult- 
ural museum,  so  great  is  the  variety  of  plants  growing 
there.  An  evening  long  to  be  remembered  was  enjoyed 
on  his  veranda,  smoking,  hearing  of  tropical  Florida,  and 
watching  the  full  moon  rising  across  the  waters,  that 
glittered  like  silver,  while  the  intervening  lawn  showed 
strangely  with  aloes  (or  century-plants),  palmettoes,  oaks 
festooned  with  gray  mosses,  and  multitudinous  flowers. 

Rock  Ledge  is  twenty  miles  south  of  Titusville,  and 
two  and  a  half  from  Lake  Winder,  where  the  St.  John's 
River  steamers  are  taken,  and  freight  is  shipped  to  Jack- 
sonville, four  hundred  and  twenty-three  miles  distant,  or 
one  hundred  and  sixty  on  an  air-line.  Of  course  the 
steamei's  are  the  diminutive  kind,  such  as  I  have  before 
described. 

From  Rock  Ledge  to  Xow  York  is  about  seventy  hours' 
travel.  Tlie  place  derives  its  name  from  a  formation  of 
coquina-rock  along  the  shore  there,  and  is  a  very  pleas- 
ant locality,  witli  a  good  class  of  settlers,  some  forty  in 
all.  But  I  think  they  have  placed  the  price  of  their  lands 
too  high.     One  hundred  dollars  per  acre  for  a  site  on  the 


38  FLORIDA. 

river  is  too  liigli  for  the  average  immigrant,  especially 
where  the  land  is  uncleared  and  unimproved.  It  may  be 
worth  it — for  the  soil  is  undoubtedly  rich — to  the  wealthy, 
but  it  will  bar  out  the  industrious  poor,  and  retard  the 
growth  of  the  region. 

It  was  here  I  made  my  first  attempt  to  eat  a  fresh-picked 
guava.  I  failed  miserably  then,  but  have  since  learned  to 
like  the  fruit,  and  think  it  excellent.  As  a  friend  once 
expressed  it,  "  It's  like  eating  a  strawberry  inside  of  an 
orange,  large  as  a  pear,"  only  the  seeds  are  like  small  shot. 
The  taste  for  this  abundant  fruit  is  like  that  for  tobacco — 
it  must  be  acquired  ;  but,  as  is  seldom  the  case  with  to- 
bacco, its  acquisition  is  never  regretted. 

The  next  morning  Mrs.  Hatch  served  us  an  excellent 
breakfast — peculiar  in  this,  that  it  consisted  almost  wholly 
of  various  kinds  of  garden  fruits  and  vegetables,  cooked 
in  divers  ways,  to  show  what  an  Indian  River  table  can 
supply.  We  visited  several  homes  in  the  neighborhood, 
everywhere  meeting  agreeable  people,  and  were  shown 
wonderful  gardens.  All  agreed  that  snakes  and  such 
things  were  rarely  seen,  and  that  flies,  gnats,  or  mosqui- 
toes were  not  unusually  troublesome  in  the  summer. 
Poultry,  eggs,  fish,  oysters,  turtles,  and  ducks  are  too 
plentiful  for  special  mention.  Amolig  other  places,  we 
visited  the  Spratt  orange-grove,  one  of  the  finest  in  Flor- 
ida, with  one  thousand  trees  growing  on  ten  acres.  The 
founder,  Mr.  Spratt,  came  here  about  ten  years  ago,  an 
old  man,  and  with  but  little  means  or  money.  He  com- 
menced clearing  the  land  all  by  himself,  and  now  has 
a  grove  hard  to  surpass.  The  land  is  quite  clean,  level, 
and  rich  ;  the  trees  all  very  uniform  in  size  and  shape,  and 
thrifty,  and  laden  with  noticeably  fine-looking  and  richly- 
flavored  fruit.  That  grove  is  sure  to  produce  henceforth 
an  income  of  several  thousand  dollars  annually  ;  and 
it  is  an   evidence  of  what  one  poor  old  man  can  do  by 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  39 

living  a  camping -out  sort  of  life  for  a  few  years.  Near 
here  also  is  a  fine  guava-preserving  establishment,  recently 
built  by  some  Massachusetts  parties. 

After  an  extended  tour  of  this  region — all  much  alike 
in  one  respect,  that  it  presented  beautiful  scenery  and  was 
deeply  interesting — one  pleasant  morning  again  found  us 
at  the  little  landing  on  Salt  Lake,  and  we  were  soon 
lightered  out  to  another  of  those  curious  little  upper  St. 
John's  River  steamers.  This  was  the  We-ki-wa,  a  snug 
craft,  but  so  very  small  and  so  odd  ;  every  inch  of  space 
being  utilized  by  the  bright,  active  boy,  a  lad  of  about 
fifteen,  who  acted  as  steward,  assistant  engineer,  pilot, 
dish-washer,  table-waiter,  chambermaid,  and  general-utility 
man.  There  were  but  five  or  six  passengers,  among  them 
an  Ohio  gentleman,  who  had  with  him  a  fine  sporting  rifle, 
which  he  kindly  invited  the  Doctor  and  myself  to  try. 
The  Doctor  led  off  with  a  splendid  shot  at  a  very  large 
alligator,  pinning  it  permanently  to  the  marshy  bank 
wliere  it  was  sunning  itself.  Later  in  the  day  he  killed 
another.  I  also  had  the  satisfaction,  such  as  it  was,  of 
killing  two  alligators,  big  ones.  They  were  very  abun- 
dant all  day  ;  often  ten  or  more  could  be  seen  slowly 
crawling  into  the  water,  where  they  keep  their  heads  up, 
staring  at  us,  then,  their  curiosity  satisfied,  suddenly  drop- 
ping from  sight. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  reached  Enterprise,  on  Lake 
IVIonroe,  where  we  staid  some  time.  Our  party  improved 
the  time  by  going  ashore  and  visiting  a  famous  sulphur- 
spring  on  the  estate  of  Count  Frederick  de  Bary,  a  wealtliy 
New-Yorker.  A  fine  residence,  lai'ge  orange-grove,  pier, 
and  packing-house  are  here,  the  spacious  grounds  all  hand- 
somely fenced  and  improved  in  neat  style,  with  every- 
thing elegant  and  complete.  The  spring  is  circular  in 
form,  about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  located  in  a 
pretty  nook.     The  Avater  is  green  as  the  greenest  paint, 


40  FLORIDA. 

and  forms  quite  a  good-sized  brook.  It  is  slightly  Avarm, 
tastes  strongly  of  sulphur,  but  is  not  unpleasant.  Re- 
suming our  journey,  the  boat  was  soon  on  her  way  down 
the  river  with  our  friend,  the  Ohio  man,  at  the  wheel, 
which  he  managed  with  unexpected  skill.  Blue  Spring 
Landing  was  reached  at  noon,  and  here  the  Doctor  and  I 
left  the  boat.  It  was  February  1st,  and  a  very  warm 
day.  The  spring,  from  which  the  landing  takes  its  name, 
covers  about  an  acre,  is  of  very  pure,  clear  water,  of  a 
slightly  sulphurous  flavor,  and  deep  blue  in  color  ;  it  is 
the  fountain-head  of  quite  a  large  stream  that  flows  into 
the  St.  John's.  The  adjacent  grounds  are  slightly  rolling, 
and  the  general  appearance  is  picturesque,  offering  a  tine 
site  for  a  winter  hotel.  The  water  looked  so  cool,  clear, 
and  tempting,  that  we  couldn't  resist,  and,  finding  a  re- 
tired nook,  we  plunged  in  and  enjoyed  the  agreeable 
novelty  of  an  open-air  bath  in  midwinter.  Afterward 
a  Avarm  walk  of  about  two  miles  brought  us  to  Orange 
City,  in  Volusia  County,  and  we  were  soon  in  the  coz}^, 
hospitable  home  of  the  Doctor,  his  own  Florida  abiding- 
place. 

Orange  City  was  founded  in  187G  by  the  Doctor  and 
a  number  of  congenial  spirits,  mostly  from  AVisconsin. 
Already  a  good  deal  of  land  has  been  cleared,  roads  and 
streets  have  been  surveyed  and  opened  in  every  direction, 
and  lots  set  off  for  business  and  residence  purposes,  a  school, 
churches,  and  shops.  Several  stores  and  eighty  or  more 
residences  have  been  erected,  new  fences  and  buildings  are 
constantly  being  built,  and  the  place  is  rapidly  growing, 
having  a  population  now  of  about  three  hundred,  which 
is  increasing  every  month.  One  hundred  and  seventy-five 
groves,  on  about  one  thousand  acres  of  land,  are  in  bloom, 
and  new  groves  and  gardens  are  being  started  everywhere 
in  the  vicinity.  Here  I  met  two  young  men,  brothers, 
from  New  York  City,  who  came  a   short   time  ago   for 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  41 

their  health,  and  now  have  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
pineapple-fields  in  the  State.  The  newsy  "  South  Florida 
Times  "  is  published  here.  The  two  following  days  were 
spent  in  short  tramps  and  drives  in  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. The  third  day,  the  Doctor,  with  his  son,  myself,  and 
Mr.  Andrew  Jackson,  a  jeweler  from  Eau  Claire,  A\  is- 
consin,  a  wealthy,  shrewd  business-man,  distributed  our- 
selves in  a  wagon,  and  started  on  a  trip  through  the 
country.  The  roads  were  in  good  condition,  and'  we 
trotted  along  briskly,  passing  new  homes  everywhere,  the 
people  being  all  busily  engaged  in  fencing,  clearing,  build- 
ing, or  setting  out  trees.  At  noon  we  arrived  at  De 
Land,  another  enterprising  colony,  mostly  from  western 
New  York.  The  site  was  located  in  1877  by  Mr.  II.  A. 
De  Land,  the  celebrated  soda-manufacturer  of  Fairport, 
New  York,  and  bears  his  name.  The  country  here  con- 
sists of  rolling,  open  pine-land,  and  is  quite  pretty  and 
home-like  in  appearance.  A  fine  church  and  a  first-class 
schoolhouse,  one  of  the  best  in  the  State,  several  stores, 
and  dwellings,  had  then  been  erected  ;  and  the  buildings 
were  all  of  noticeably  substantial,  comfortable  construc- 
tion, while  the  house-grounds  were  cleared  up  and  set 
out  with  flowers  and  shrubs.  The  "  Florida  Agricultur- 
ist "  is  published  here.  It  has  a  large  circulation,  and  is 
considered  standard  authority  on  all  subjects  in  its  special 
line. 

From  De  Land  we  drove  to  Spring  Garden,  another 
of  the  enterprising  colonies  of  this  favorite  section.  New 
York  and  Illinois  are  mostly  represented  here.  In  1872 
Major  George  II.  Norris,  a  native  of  western  New  York, 
well  known  in  Chicago,  came  here  and  purchased  an  im- 
mense Spanish  grant,  and,  having  perfected  his  title,  laid 
out  this  pretty  hamlet.  A  large  amount  of  land  has  been 
cleared  in  the  vicinity,  and  wide  streets  have  been  o])ened 
for  miles,  well  fenced,  and  set  out  with   orange-trees  for 


42  FLORIDA. 

shade.  The  "Si)ring  Garden  Kouse,"  quite  a  cozy,  home- 
like, well-built  hotel,  is  kept  by  Mr.  E.  M.  Turner,  a  wide- 
awake Chicago  hotel-man.  It  stands  in  a  large  orange- 
grove,  surrounded  by  a  number  of  pretty  hotel-cottages 
for  invalid  guests.  A  landing -pier  and  packing -house 
have  been  built  at  Spring  Garden  Lake,  two  miles  distant, 
where  the  St.  John's  River  steamers  land  goods  and  passen- 
gers. Quite  a  number  of  families  have  their  homes  here, 
and  form  an  unusually  select  and  refined  community,  dis- 
crimination being  exercised  in  the  sale  of  lands.  Their 
homes  are  noticeably  well  constructed,  and  have  an  air  of 
settled  improvement,  surrounded  by  lawns,  gardens,  and 
groves,  grape-arbors,  fences,  etc.  In  the  evening  quite  a 
party  of  the  residents  met  us  at  the  hotel,  and  a  very  pleas- 
ant, entertaining  time  was  enjoyed.  Accompanying  the 
Major  to  his  hospitable  residence  near  by,  I  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  feasting  on  a  heaping  dish  of  freshly-picked  straw- 
berries, and  partaking  of  some  excellent  samples  of  orange- 
wine. 

The  next  morning  we  drove  to  the  immense  orange- 
groves  owned  by  Major  Norris.  He  has  11,000  trees, 
mostly  on  hammock-lands,  which  are  nearly  all  bearing  ; 
in  fact,  he  gathered  last  winter  upward  of  460,000,  lilling 
3,100  boxes  !  In  time  that  grove  will  produce  millions, 
yielding  a  princely  revenue.  The  trees  Avere  nearly  all 
sour  stumps  budded  with  sweet  fruit.  The  Major  said, 
"  In  a  few  years  I  will  show  the  visitor  here  an  avenue 
five  miles  long,  lined  with  solid  orange-groves  all  the  way," 
and  I  think  it  quite  likely  that  such  a  spectacle  may  then 
be  seen.  At  the  house  of  Mr.  B.  F.  ITaynes  we  were  feast- 
ed on  delicious  bananas  ;  and  another  resident  whom  we 
met  Avas  Professor  Isaac  Stone,  who  was  for  years  United 
States  consul  at  Singapore.  Ilis  wife,  Mrs.  Stone,  is  the 
author  of  a  standard  work  on  India — "  India  and  its 
Princes." 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE. 


43 


Orange  City,  Dc  Land,  and  Spring  Garden,  are  three 
places  that  impressed  me  as  favorably  as  any  I  have  seen 
in  Florida.  There  are  other  places  that  are  more  inter- 
esting for  historical  reminiscences  or  scenery,  or  for  some 
particular  enterprise  ;  and  others  may,  very  likely,  become 


The  Banana. 


larger  and  more  active  communities,  like  Sanford,  Lees- 
burg,  and  Charlotte  Harljor  ;  but  those  three  places  first 
named  will,  I  think,  always  be  pretty,  home-like,  pros- 
perous villages,  of  slow,  steady,  healthy  growth  and  solid 
prosperity.     The   region    has   a  mean   elevation   of  about 


44  FLORIDA. 

seventy  feet  above  tide-water,  and  is  noted  for  its  liealth- 
fulness. 

From  Spring  Garden  we  returned  to  Orange  City,  vis- 
iting Beresford,  Volusia,  and  .Starke's  Landing,  all  on  the 
lake.  They  are  merely  little  landing-places,  with  but  three 
or  four  families  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  but  are 
the  foci  of  quite  a  goodly  number  of  families  living  back 
on  the  highlands.  At  Starke's  Landing  we  visited  the 
famous  old  grove  of  Captain  Starke,  and  saw  hundreds 
of  noble  orange-trees  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  years  old, 
scattered  about  irregularly  over  a  grand  old  lawn.  Some 
of  them  ai'e  fully  thirty  feet  high,  and  bear  crojis  of  from 
two  to  ten  thousand  oranges  each.  This  was  one  of  the 
grand  old  English  estates  of  the  last  century,  the  property 
of  Lord  Beresford.  Remains  of  his  extensive  improve- 
ments are  yet  to  be  seen.  Here  we  saw  bogs  feeding  on 
oranges,  and  it  certainly  seemed  a  shame  to  see  them  eat- 
ing such  rich  fruit.  Here  also  we  saw  an  immense  tree 
that  had  just  been  transplanted  with  its  crop  in  full  fruit, 
and  showed  no  signs  of  injury. 

All  that  region  is  of  hilly  pine-land,  with  open  growth 
of  trees  and  excellent  soil,  the  exceptions  of  bad  soil  being 
very  few.  And  it  undoubtedly  is  a  very  healthy  section 
and  quite  free  from  insects,  being  high,  avcII  drained,  pine- 
timbered,  and  open  to  the  pure  sea-breeze  all  along  its 
eastern  coast.  Ormond,  Port  Orange,  Daytona,  and  Smyr- 
na, are  all  thrifty,  enterprising,  growing  little  hamlets,  lo- 
cated in  the  rich  hammock-belt  of  land  on  the  adjacent 
ocean-coast,  where  they  have  the  advantages  of  good  soil 
and  both  fresh  and  salt  water  ;  but  the  insects  in  the  sum- 
mer months  make  a  residence  there  unpleasant  except  in 
some  specially  favorable  locations.  Each  has  from  ten 
to  fifty  families  of  unusually  agreeable,  select  people,  the 
nucleus  of  future  pleasant  communities.  In  fact,  the  peo- 
ple of  nearly  all  the  villages  and  settlements  throughout 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  45 

Yolusia  County  are  of  exactly  the  right  sort  of  Northern 
stock,  and  xinder  their  enterprising,  hxw- abiding  control, 
the  region  is  sure  to  become  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in 
Florida. 

The  next  morning  we  bade  farewell  to  the  good  peo- 
ple of  Orange  City,  and  again  set  out  on  our  travels.  At 
Blue  Spring  Landing  we  took  the  steamer  George  M.  Bird, 
which  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  carried  us  to  Sanford, 
where  we  remained  over  the  following  day,  a  rainy  Sun- 
day. Sanford  and  the  adjacent  country  I  have  considered 
important  enough  to  have  a  chapter  to  itself ;  so,  to  avoid 
repetition,  will  say  nothing  about  it  here. 

Early  on  Monday  morning  we  resumed  our  journey  in  a 
fine  two-horse  rig,  accompanied  by  Mr.  D.  L.  Way,  editor 
of  the  "  South  Florida  Journal,"  of  Sanford.  Our  route 
was  southwest  from  the  St.  John's,  and  for  the  first  five 
or  six  miles  the  ride  was  through  a  flat,  uninteresting  coun- 
try, which  gradually  rises  and  becomes  fairly  hilly.  Alta- 
monte  was  reached  about  noon,  and  we  were  invited  to  the 
pleasant  home  of  Mr.  George  E.  Wilson,  a  young  man  who 
came  here  from  Maine  several  years  ago,  and  now  has 
a  comfortable  house,  a  large  orange-grove,  and  a  grocery, 
a  perfect  sample  of  New  England  enterprise  and  thrift. 
After  an  excellent  dinner,  we  visited"  some  fine  gardens  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  saw  ample  evidence  of  good  soil 
and*  energetic  people.  It  is  noted  as  a  pleasant  neighbor- 
hood, the  residents  being  generally  cultured  people  from 
the  North,  and  the  appearance  of  the  country  thei'eabout 
is  pleasing.  It  is  quite  likely  that  they  will  have  railroad 
communication  with  Sanford  soon,  which  will  undoubtedly 
make  this  a  fine  locality  for  either  residence  or  occasional 
resort. 

Late  in  the  aftei'noon  we  reached  Apopka,  where  ^s■e  re- 
mained overnight.  It  is  a  small  place,  of  about  three  hun- 
dred inhabitants,  mostly  Southern  natives,  and  the  cluster 


4G 


FLORIDA. 


of  cheaply  constructed  buildings,  all  of  plainest  design,  un- 
painted  and  ■sveatlier-bcaten,  closely  huddled  together  on 

the  narrow,  short  streets, 
gives  it  an  appearance 
much  like  the  backwoods 
hamlets  of  Alabama,  Geor- 
gia, and  the  States  of  that 
belt.  The  soil  thereabout 
is  rolling  pine  and  ham- 
mock, and  famous  for  its 
fertility.  We  visited  sev- 
eral gardens  and  groves, 
and  saw  none  better  any- 
where else  in  the  State. 
It  is  an  excellent  region 
for  oranges,  sugar-cane, 
and  vegetables,  and  is  ex- 
ceptionally healthy.  The 
country  is  everything  that 
could  be  desired,  but  there 
is  an  evident  lack  of  taste 
and  enterprise  among  the 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  cen- 
ter of  a  good  trade,  being 
the  most  pretentious  town 
in  that  region,  has  a  good 
average  school,  and  will, 
no  doubt,  soon  have  rail- 
way connection  Avith  the 
St.  John's  at  Sanford. 

Three  miles  from  the 

town  is  Lake  Apopka,  a 

superb  body  of  water — an  inland  sea,  about  fifty  miles  in 

circumference,  surrounded  by  a  large  tract  of  hammock, 

with  a  rolling  black  soil,  densely  covered  with  forests  of 


I    2 


TOUE   OF  THE  STATE.  47 

hard- woods,  etc.  The  richness  of  the  soil  in  this  hammock 
is  famous  throughout  the  State.  Hon.  T.  G.  Speer,  State 
Senator,  is  engaged  in  cutting  a  series  of  short  canals  that 
will  give  water  communication  from  Lakes  Apopka,  Dora, 
Eustis,  and  Griffin,  into  the  Ocklawaha,  and  so  to  Jackson- 
ville. When  this  short  canal  (or  a  railroad  outlet)  shall 
have  been  secured,  this  lake  will  soon  be  surrounded  by  a 
large  population. 

The  next  morning  we  turned  northward,  and  at  noon 
reached  Zellwood,  on  little  Lake  Maggiore,  where  we  ac- 
cepted the  cordial  hospitalities  of  Colonel  T.  El  wood  Zell, 
who  owns  a  fine  estate  and  a  beautiful  home  here,  and 
from  whom  the  locality  derives  its  name.  The  country 
from  Apopka  to  this  place,  which  we  traversed,  was  all 
high,  rolling  pine-land,  with  frequent  lakes  and  hammocks, 
evidently  very  good  soiL  The  vicinity  of  Zellwood  is  very 
attractive,  with  productive  soil  and  agreeable  scenery.  The 
Colonel  and  his  charming  wife  are  Philadelphians,  who 
spend  much  of  their  time  abroad,  but  make  occasional  win- 
ter visits  to  their  dainty  home  on  this  pretty  spot. 

It  was  quite  dark  when  we  arrived  at  Pendryville,  on 
Lake  Eustis,  where  we  found  very  comfortable  accommo- 
dations at  Mr.  A.  S.  Pendry's  home — the  Ocklawaha  Hotel. 
Mr.  Pendry  is  from  Rochester,  Xew  York,  and  has  select- " 
ed  a  very  attractive  location  for  his  home.  He  has  cleared 
a  large  tract  of  land,  built  a  good  hotel,  fenced  his  lots, 
and  made  many  improvements.  It  is  generally  a  rolling 
pine-land  thereabout,  with  small  lakes,  and  large  tracts 
of  hammock  bordering  on  Lake  Eustis.  Undoubtedly  a 
healthy  region  of  pleasing  scenery,  it  will  very  likely  be- 
come in  time  quite  a  prosperous  place.*     Here  IVlr.  Way 

*  Tills  prediction  has  boon  verified  much  sooner  than  I  could  (hen  have 
suspected.  Visiting  Pendryville  in  June,  1881,  I  was  struck  with  astonish- 
ment at  tlie  progress  that  had  been  made  in  the  brief  space  of  a  year  and 
a  half.     The  Pendry  farm  has  been  laid  out  in  town-hjts,  which  are  rapidly 

3 


48  FLO  HID  A. 

left  us  to  return  to  his  liorne  in  Sanford,  greatly  to  our  re- 
grot,  for  he  proved  a  most  agreeable  traveling  companion. 
lie  has  a  line,  tlirifty-looking  orange-grove,  prettily  located 
on  two  small  lakes,  visited  hy  us  shortly  after  leaving  Zell- 
wood. 

We  remained  all  day  at  Pendryville,  driving  about, 
viewing  the  prospects,  and  forming  a  very  favorable  ojiin- 
ion  of  the  locality.  The  right  class  of  immigrants  are  set- 
tling there,  and  a  railroad  is  certain  to  tap  that  region  very 
soon.  The  St,  John's  and  Lake  Eustis  Railroad  is  now 
Avithin  two  miles  of  the  hotel.  After  dinner  next  day, 
we  drove  over  to  Fort  Mason,  on  the  opposite  shore  of 
Lake  Eustis.  On  the  route  we  stojjped  at  the  home  of  the 
lion.  J.  M.  Bryan,  member  of  the  Legislature,"  and  he  ac- 
companied us  to  the  town,  which  consists  of  a  hotel,  two 
well-stocked  stores,  and  a  cotton-press.  The  country  and 
soil  thereabout  is  rich,  low  hammock.  Here  we  met  Sena- 
being  bought  and  built  upon,  numerous  orange- groves  have  been  set  out  in 
the  vicinity,  population  is  pouring  in  with  unprecedented  rapidity,  and  the 
bustle  and  stir  of  a  prosperous  growth  are  everywhere  visible.  Owing 
largely  to  the  skillful  and  well-directed  efforts  of  ^Ir.  John  A.  ^lacdonald, 
editor  of  the  "Florida  New-Yorker,"  attention  has  been  attracted  to  the 
advantages  of  the  locality ;  and  in  no  portion  of  the  State  have  I  observed 
more  healthy  and  pleasing  signs  of  progress — such  as  neat  and  tasteful 
fences,  substantial  houses,  and  lands  thoroughly  cleared  and  carefully  culti- 
vated. The  young  orange-groves,  too,  looked  exceptionally  well,  and  re- 
markably early  returns  have  been  obtained  in  some  cases  that  were  called 
to  my  attention.  Moreover,  as  I  saw  more  of  the  country,  I  was  impressed 
much  more  strikingly  with  its  scenic  attractiveness.  Rolling  hills  and  undu- 
lating slopes  are  the  characteristic  features  of  the  region,  bold  bluffs  front 
the  lakes  on  almost  every  side,  and  from  certain  points  on  the  northern 
shore  of  Lake  Dora  (about  five  miles  from  Pendryville)  views  are  obtained 
that  arc  unlike  anything  seen  elsewhere  in  Florida.  The  lake  itself  nestles 
at  the  foot  of  wooded  bluffs  over  a  hundred  feet  in  height ;  on  the  oppo- 
site shore  still  higher  hills  lift  boldly  from  the  water ;  while  farther  away 
'still,  beyond  Lake  Harris,  at  the  distance  of  twenty-eight  miles,  a  misty 
line  of  heights  rises  almost  mountainously  against  the  horizon. 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  49 

tor  T.  G,  Specr,  who  was  engaged  in  constructing  his 
dredging-machine,  and  he  explained  his  intention  ot"  cut- 
ting a  canal  so  as  to  connect  the  entire  series  of  large 
lakes  in  this  famous  lake-region.  This  improvement  will 
open  up  a  vast  amount  of  rich  soil  to  transportation  con- 
veniences. 

The  country  from  this  point  to  Lcesburg  is  all  a  rolling 
pine-land,  in  some  places  quite  hilly,  and  contains  innu- 
merable small  lakes  and  frequent  tracts  of  rich  hammocks, 
in  which  we  saw  many  Avild  groves  of  sour  oranges  grow- 
ing, all  laden  with  their  deceptive  golden  fruit.  The  Doc- 
tor pronounced  it  an  excellent  region,  of  rich  soil  ;  but 
very  few  houses  or  imj)rovements  were  seen.  At  one 
of  the  few  houses  encountered  on  the  route  (a  handsome, 
new  building,  occupied  by  a  family  from  Illinois),  we 
stopped  and  were  shown  a  splendid  large  orange-grove, 
yielding  the  owner  an  income  of  several  thousand  dol- 
lars annually.  He  had  come  here  very  poor,  had  lived 
cheaply  and  worked  hard,  and  now  is  reaping  his  reward. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  wild  head-waters 
of  the  Ocklawaha,  on  a  ferry  worked  by  hauling  on  a  rope 
stretched  across  on  poles.  The  road  on  either  side  was, 
for  a  long  distance,  through  a  dense  jungle,  and  we  were 
glad  to  get  well  through  it  and  reach  our  destination. 

Leesburg,  the  county-seat  of  Sumter  County,  the  home 
of  about  two  hundred  people,  is  a  quiet,  contented,  easy- 
going, rather  old-fashioned  sort  of  a  place,  all  the  business 
houses  being  low,  plain,  wooden  buildings,  mostly  of  one 
story,  ranged  along  one  wide,  sandy  street.  A  good  win- 
ter hotel  is  badly  needed,  and  would  probably  be  a  profit- 
able investment.  The  town  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  rather 
flat  pine  and  hammock  country,  the  soil  of  which  is  nearly 
all  very  rich.  It  has  a  good  school  and  church,  and  an 
ordei'ly  society,  which  includes  only  one  lawyer,  who  does 
not  make  a  very  large  income,  although  they  boast  that 


50  FLORIDA. 

he  can  earn  double  fees  by  arguing  for  both  parties  in  the 
same  case.  The  adjacent  region  is  being  rapidly  taken  up, 
and  already  contains  many  settlers.  This  is  the  upper  end 
of  navigation  on  the  Ocklawaha  River,  which  furnishes  the 
only  outlet  of  the  region.  Leesburg  has,  beyond  doubt, 
a  prosperous  future  before  it  ;  within  the  year,  probably, 
the  Peninsular  Railroad  will  reach  there,  and  its  central 
position  insures  it  a  large  and  increasing  trade. 

The  whole  of  the  day  following  our  arrival  was  spent 
in  looking  about  the  town,  gathering  statistics  of  its 
trade,  garden  and  field  crops,  shij^ping  facilities,  etc.  The 
next  morning  we  accepted  an  invitation  to  enjoy  a  sail 
on  Lake  Harris,  and  at  an  early  hour  were  on  board  a 
trim  and  rapid  yacht.  The  party  included  Mr.  William 
Fox,  once  of  Chicago,  now  a  prominent  citizen  of  Lees- 
burg ;  Mr.  George  Pratt,  owner  and  editor  of  the  "  Lees- 
burg Advance "  ;  Mr.  Jackson,  owner  of  the  yacht,  re- 
cently of  Cincinnati,  now  residing  on  Lake  Eustis,  where 
he  has  purchased  a  fine  propei'ty  ;  and  ourselves. 

It  was  a  beautiful  day,  with  a  pleasant  breeze,  and 
we  bowled  along  over  the  clear  waters  of  this  lovely  lake 
(it  is  eight  miles  wide  by  ten  miles  long)  in  exhilarat- 
ing style.  The  shore  everywhere  has  much  natural  beau- 
ty, being  high,  Avith  a  rich,  dark  soil,  generally  covered 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  very  large  hard-wood  trees, 
oaks,  etc.,  evidently  very  fertile  as  well  as  very  pictu- 
resque. "VYe  passed  several  fine  estates,  their  lands  neatly 
cleared  and  fenced,  substantial,  cozy-appearing  houses, 
surrounded  by  pretty  gardens,  flowers,  and  young  groves, 
presenting  perfect  pictures  as  seen  from  our  boat.  Among 
several  places  at  which  we  stopped  was  that  of  Colonel 
J.  W.  JNLarshall,  a  hearty,  genial,  intelligent  gentleman 
of  the  old  school,  who  came  here  from  South  Carolina 
shortly  after  the  war,  which  so  sadly  impoverished  the 
planters  of  that  State,      Here  he  has   established  himself 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  51 

on  a  grand  estate,  containing  several  large  orange-groves 
of  all  varieties  and  ages,  from  the  tender  seedling  grove 
to  the  full  bearing,  and  all  remarkably  thrifty  and  well 
kept.  The  oldest  grove,  now  in  full  bearing,  yielding  im- 
mense crops,  is  one  of  the  finest  we  saw  in  all  the  State, 
with  the  lai'gest-sized  trees  and  the  heaviest  crops. 

The  old  Colonel  showed  us  all  over  his  extensive  estate; 
it  has  a  rich  soil,  carefully  cleared,  a  rolling,  hilly  surface, 
and  produces  a  great  variety  of  plants  and  fruits,  including 
teas,  coffees,  etc.,  fully  demonstrating  the  fact  that  every- 
thing in  the  way  of  fruits,  flowers,  garden  and  field  prod- 
ucts, may  be  grown  on  the  soil  of  this  lake-region.  Taking 
us  finally  into  his  bearing  grove  and  pausing  at  a  large 
tree,  the  low-hanging  branches  of  which  were  laden  with 
easily  plucked  fruit,  he  gave  us  a  complete  course  of  in- 
struction in  the  fascinating,  divinely  refreshing  art  of  "  or- 
ange-eating and  how  to  do  it."  And  his  recipe,  while  it 
may  not  be  of  the  highest  degree  of  mincing  daintiness — 
the  eating-soup-with-a-fork  style — is  an  exceedingly  enjoy- 
able, practical  method  of  getting  the  juice,  the  whole  juice, 
and  nothing  but  the  juice,  out  of  an  orange.  Said  he  : 
"  Now,  gentlemen,  roll  up  your  sleeves,  remove  your  cuffs, 
high  collars,  etc.,  unbutton  your  vests  and  a  few  other 
waist-buttons  ;  take  a  sharp  knife,  pull  a  dark-shade,  heavy 
orange,  peel  it  to  the  quick  all  around,  leave  no  bitter  rind, 
shut  your  eyes  and  suck  ;  don't  bite — just  suck." 

The  reader  hardly  needs  to  be  assured  that  we  obeyed 
to  the  letter.  I  think  we  each  averaged  about  fifteen  or- 
anges in  ra})id  succession — and  in  silence,  sweet  silence — 
one  steady  draught  of  nectar  pure  and  wholesome.  Lack 
of  capacity  alone  compelled  us,  one  by  one,  to  regretfully 
cease  this  luscious  feast ;  and  repairing  to  the  house,  we 
were  invited,  after  a  short  respite,  to  partake  of  a  fine 
dinner,  Avell  washed  down  with  select  brands  from  an  evi- 
dently well-stocked  cellar.     Soon  after  dinner  we  took  our- 


52  FLORIDA. 

departure  from  this  hospitable  home,  tlie  old  Colonel  de- 
positing a  huge  basketful  of  oranges  in  our  boat  as  a 
remembrancer.  AVe  bade  him  good-by  with  regret,  all 
hoping  that  his  considerable  shadow  may  never  be  less.* 

A  lojig,  circuitous  sail  was  made  around  the  lake  that 
we  might  view  its  beautifid  shores,  and  we  reached  the 
hotel  in  the  evening.  Early  next  morning  avc  resumed 
our  journey,  and  were  soon  well  on  our  way  to  Sumterville, 
west  of  Leesburg.  The  route  lay  through  a  rather  flat, 
uninteresting  belt  that  appeared  generally  wet,  and,  in 
tracts,  marshy,  a  good  sugar-cane  region.  We  crossed  one 
broad  body  of  water,  which  was  much  deeper  than  our 
driver  had  counted  upon,  and,  in  consequence,  we  barely 
escaped  the  unpleasant  incident  of  a  ducking.  In  some 
places  the  road  passed  through  extensive  hammocks,  always 
attractive.  About  five  miles  from  Leesburg  we  reached 
the  stony  belt  of  Central  Florida,  the  only  locality  in  all 
the  peninsula  (except  along  the  coasts  and  in  some  of  the 
northern  counties)  where  we  found  stones.  Here  they 
were  plentiful,  scattered  about  in  all  shapes  and  sizes,  and 
it  gave  us  considerable  satisfaction  to  hear  the  wheels  click 
along  over  them,  with  the  music  so  familiar  in  more  north- 
ern regions. 

It  was  noon  (Sunday  noon)  when  Sumterville  was 
reached,  and  our  team  turned  back  to  its  starting-point, 
while  Ave  took  quarters  at  the  primitive  hostelry  that  offers 
scant  accommodations  to  way-bound  travelers.  Sumter- 
ville is  an  old  ante-helium  settlement,  with  large  tracts  of 
cleared  land — evidently  a  high  level,  as  it  is  not  wet — 
with  a  dark  soil,  which  is  undoubtedly  very  rich  and  pro- 
ductive. The  hamlet  contains  two  or  three  very  rude 
backwoods  sort  of  stores,  and  about  a  dozen  dwellings, 
but  has  great  expectations,  that  are  quite  likely  to  be  ful- 

*  Since  our  visit,  Colonel  Marshall  has  sold  this  grove  for  §28,000  cash. 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  53 

filled,  as  it  is  on  tlie  present  State  stage-line  and  United 
States  mail-route  from  Ocala  to  Tampa,  and  is  on  the  di- 
rect line  from  Leesburg  to  the  latter  place,  such  as  a  rail- 
road will  desire  to  select.  It  is  a  good,  healthy,  fertile 
region,  needing  only  settlers. 

The  next  day  several  of  the  residents  called  on  us, 
and  we  spent  the  day,  a  warm  one,  in  visiting  a  number 
of  gardens  and  fields  and  orange-groves  in  the  vicinity. 
Everywhere  the  vegetables,  crops,  and  fruits  looked  finely, 
growing  in  great  abundance  with  little  care.  We  also 
drove  to  Lake  Panasofkee,  six  miles  distant,  a  large  lake 
surrounded  with  rich  black  hammock-land,  the  region 
for  sugar-cane  and  all  garden  and  field  crops.  Also  in 
this  neighborhood  are  numerous  large  "  sinks  "  of  the  land, 
so  frequent  in  all  parts  of  Middle  Florida,  usually  circular 
in  form,  the  sides  quite  straight  and  smooth,  varying  from 
twenty-five  to  one  hundred  and  more  feet  in  depth,  and 
seldom  containing  any,  or  but  little,  water.  This,  indeed, 
is  the  singular  feature  about  them,  for  often  they  are  close 
to  large  lakes  whose  waters  are  fifty  feet  above  the  bot- 
tom of  the  sink,  yet  none  in  the  sink.  It  is  as  if  some- 
thing had  given  way  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  the 
soil  had  fallen  in  ;  but  they  must  all  have  subterranean 
outlets,  for  in  no  other  way  can  the  absence  of  water 
be  accounted  for. 

The  next  morning  we  took  the  stage-coach,  a  little 
rattle-trap  sort  of  an  affair,  and  were  soon  on  our  way 
to  Brooksville.  It  is  a  long  ride  through  a  decidedly 
rolling  country,  mostly  pine-land,  with  very  little  ham- 
mock, and  few  lakes.  The  stone  belt  extends  all  through 
this  region,  ending  along  the  AVithlacoochee  River.  It 
closely  resembles  the  piuy-woods  region  in  ^Michigan, 
and  the  ride  became  very  tedious  and  monotonous,  ex- 
cept that  we  saw  any  quantity  of  feathered  and  furred 
game,  rabbits,  squirrels,  quail,  etc.,  and  occasionally  wild 


54  FLORIDA. 

turkej's,  large  and  .sliy.  This  is  a  range  where  deer  and 
bear  also  are  plentiful. 

The  entire  trip  that  day  was  through  an  unsettled 
region,  the  only  human  beings  living  anywhere  along 
the  road  being  four  or  five  families  of  Florida  natives, 
the  genuine,  unadulterated  "  cracker " — the  clay-eating, 
gaunt,  pale,  tallowy,  leather-skinned  sort — stupid,  stolid, 
staring  eyes,  dead  and  lusterless  ;  unkempt  hair,  generally 
tow-colored  ;  and  such  a  shiftless,  slouching  manner  !  sim- 
ply white  savages — or  living  white  nuimmies  would,  per- 
haps, better  indicate  their  dead-alive  looks  and  actions. 
"Who,  or  what,  these  "  crackers "  are,  from  whom  descend- 
ed, of  what  nationality,  or  what  becomes  of  them,  is  one 
among  the  many  unsolved  mysteries  in  this  State.  Stupid 
and  shiftless,  yet  shy  and  vindictive,  they  are  a  block  in 
the  pathway  of  civilization,  settlement,  and  enter])rise 
wherever  they  exist.  Fortunately,  however,  they  are  very 
few  and  rapidly  decreasing  in  numbers,  for  they  can  not 
exist  near  civilized  settlements.  The  four  or  live  cabins 
we  passed  of  these  "  crackers  "  were  bare  log  structures, 
with  low  roofs,  no  doors  or  windows — merely  openings — 
or  fireplaces  ;  no  filling  between  the  logs,  and  usually  no 
floors  ;  no  out-houses,  wells,  or  fences  ;  and  no  gardens  or 
plants,  except  a  sweet-potato  patch.  A  near  lake,  or  spring, 
supplies  their  Avater  ;  hogs,  cattle,  and  game,  their  meat ; 
and  the  tops  of  cabbage-palmettoes,  sweet-potatoes,  and 
wild  fruits,  form  almost  their  only  diet  ;  while  pellets  of 
clay  eaten  as  a  seasoning  ingredient  take  the  place  of 
needed  salt  and  pepper. 

As  the  stage  was  slowly  climbing  a  rise  in  the  road, 
we  were  surprised  to  see  four  women,  seated  on  a  fallen 
tree  close  by  the  roadside  ;  all  were  of  precisely  the  same 
size,  with  the  same  features,  eyes,  and  hair,  and  a  vacant, 
stupid  stare  ;  each  wore  a  light-colored,  faded  calico  dress, 
of  plainest,  scantiest  possible  make,  quite  clean  (a  surpris- 


TOUR    OF  THE  STATE. 


55 


ing  fact),  and  largo,  plain,  cotton  sun-bonnets  ;  each  wore  a 
cheap,  bright-hued,  cotton  handkerchief  around  her  neck ; 


A  Pair  of  "Ci!ackers." 


and  they  were  all  barefooted,  carrying  their  low,  thick- 
soled  shoes  in  their  hands.  The  dress  and  kerchief  ap- 
peared to  be  their  only  garments — no  underwear  whatever. 


56  FLORIDA. 

Our  driver,  a  sociable  sort  of  fellow  from  Ohio,  stopped 
and  chatted  with  this  strange  feminine  quartet,  and  we 
learned  that  they  were  a  mother  and  three  daughters, 
■which  was  the  climax  of  surprise  to  us,  for  the  four  faces 
all  appeared  of  the  same  age.  They  were  going  to  a 
dance  at  a  "  cracker's,"  some  iifteen  miles  farther  on,  and 
they  had  already  walked  about  five  miles.  Think  of 
woman — lovely,  tender  woman! — walking  barefoot  twenty 
miles  to  dance  all  night  in  a  close  cracker  cabin,  Avith  whis- 
ky-perfumed cracker  males,  to  the  scraping  of  a  wheezy 
violin  in  the  hands  of  an  old  darkey  ;  the  scene  lighted 
with  pine-knots  ;  the  feast  of  hog,  hominy,  beef,  sweet-po- 
tatoes, and  likely  a  few  villainous  compounds  of  flour, 
cheapest  brown  sugar,  or  sirup,  and  called  ca1^:e  or  "  risin'- 
bread,"  And,  perhaps,  that  cracker  ball  Avill  be  kej^t  up 
two  or  three  days  and  nights,  until  all  the  stock  of  eatables 
and  v.hisky  is  used  up. 

The  "  cracker,"  when  resolved  to  give  a  dance,  shoots 
some  game  and  carves  a  hog,  finds  a  market  and  sells  his 
game  for  a  little  cash,  lays  in  a  stock  of  whisky,  a  little 
flour,  cheap  sugar,  sirup,  tobacco,  hominy,  or  grits,  more 
whisky,  coifee,  or  cheap  tea,  goes  home,  sets  the  "  wimmin- 
folks "  to  baking,  while  he  resolves  himself  into  an  invi- 
tation committee,  and  sets  out  on  his  lean,  lank,  cracker 
pony,  and  invites  all  the  crackers  for  miles  around  to  "  cum 
raound."  And  they  come.  A  fight  generally  ends  the 
dance,  and  the  best  man  wins  the  girl,  for  these  dances  are 
usually  prolific  of  "jinin"  matches.  It  should  be  said, 
however,  ^^er  co?^ ^/Y/,  that  there  is  very  little  sexual  immo- 
rality at  these  half-civilized  gatherings,  for  the  mothers — 
as  in  this  case — are  also  on  hand,  and  keep  a  sharp  eye  on 
proceedings  ;  while  the  men — the  fathers — Avill  shoot. 

We  passed  on,  and  at  noon  crossed  the  Withlacoochee 
River,  at  Hays's  Ferry,  Avhere  there  are  two  or  three  cabins. 
The  river  is  here  a  wide,  deep,  dai'k-colored,  swift-running 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  57 

stream.  A  rope  stretched  from  bank  to  bank  was  our 
means  of  passage.  Just  across  tlie  river  we  found  the 
cabin  of  a  cracker,'  and  here  we  were  to  get  dinner.  After 
a  long  delay,  we  were  called  in  and  told  to  "set  by"  ;  but, 
although  the  table  was  heaped  with  food  (alleged  to  be), 
yet  I  couldn't  eat  of  it  :  sweet-potatoes  in  two  styles — 
baked  and  fried  in  slices — but  less  than  half  cooked  in  either 
shape  ;  bread,  merely  chunks  of  yellow,  hot,  steamy  dough, 
incased  in  burned  crusts  ;  muddy  coffee  (plenty  of  grounds 
for  being  muddy,  if  the  reader  will  excuse  the  pun)  ;  and 
fat  pork.  There  were  eggs  visible,  however  ;  so,  under 
pretense  of  not  feeling  icell,  I  induced  the  cook  to  soft- 
boil  a  few,  and,  having  managed  to  strain  off  some  coffee 
from  its  mud  basis,  worried  through  a  luncheon.  The 
housewife  v»'iis  of  indolent,  unhealthy,  flabby  appearance, 
slattern  and  unwholesome.  Said  the  driver,  who  knew 
them  well,  "That  husband  of  yours,  if  he  should  ever 
trip  up  in  a  mud-puddle,  Avould  lie  and  die  there,  he  is  so 
lazy."  And  that  loving  wife  replied,  with  a  shallow  smile: 
"  Yas,  I  'spcct  that's  so  ;  he  are  mos'  dreffle,  or'nary,  lazy- 
like,  sho'  enuff,  jes'  no  'count."  The  listening  husband 
grinned  as  if  a  compliment  had  been  paid  him. 

Such  villainous,  disgusting  coot:ing  as  that  found  on 
the  tables  of  the  low  whites  of  this  region  is  surely  un- 
equaled.  The  ignorance  among  the  women  of  this  very 
necessary  art  is  frightful.  Living  in  a  region  where,  al- 
most Avithout  solicitation,  Nature  provides  all  the  daintiest 
and  best  of  fruits  and  garden-vegetables,  yet  their  tables 
seldom  have  any  sauces  or  fruits  of  any  kind,  except  occa- 
sionally dried  apple-sauce,  bought  at  the  store,  or  else  some 
wretchedly  made  guava-jelly.  Vegetables  are  seldom  seen 
on  any  tables,  except  those  of  the  land-owner  class,  or  of 
Northern  settlers  occupying  homes  in  the  neighborhood. 
No  wonder  the  "crackers"  look  so  unhealthy,  or  are  so 
stupid,  or  that  the  men  take  to  whisky,  and  like  to  light  so 


58  FLORIDA. 

vindictively.  Anything  that  involves  a  change  must  be 
agreeable  to  people  fed  on  such  wretched  diet.  Steam- 
engines  are  great  civilizers  of  nations,  but  good  cooking 
beats  anything  as  a  civilizer  of  individuals.  I  have  seen 
its  beneficial  effects  among  the  very  worst  Indians  of  the 
West. 

Resuming  our  journey,  the  region  passed  over  in  the 
afternoon  differed  somewhat  from  that  of  the  forenoon, 
being  more  hilly,  and  involving  a  constant  going  up  and 
down  of  more  or  less  steep  inclines.  We  Avcre  now  out 
of  the  stony  belt,  and  the  hammocks  Avere  more  frequent. 
No  settlers  were  seen,  and  game  was  very  abundant.  Late 
in  the  afternoon  large  tracts  of  cleai'cd  land  began  to  be 
seen,  mostly  neglected  ;  and  at  supper-time  we  reached 
Brooksville.  Standing  on  the  broad,  level  top  of  a  high 
liill,  in  the  midst  of  many  hills — the  largest  hills  we  saw 
in  any  part  of  the  State — Brooksville  is  one  of  the  most 
prettily  located  towns  or  settlements  we  saw  in  Florida, 
being  equaled  only  by  Tallahassee.  It  is,  in  fact,  the 
most  un-Florida-appearing  place  imaginable,  with  excel- 
lent, rich,  dark-brown  soils,  occasional  stones  and  gravel, 
first-class  hard  country  roads  in  all  directions  ;  forests 
of  oaks,  maple,  beech,  hickory,  and  all  such  hard-wood 
growths,  rail-fences,  and  far-viewing  hills.  All  was  like 
Ohio,  Wisconsin,  New  York — the  Avestern  part  on  the  Erie 
Railway — in  fact,  anywhere  in  a  hilly  but  not  rocky  re- 
gion. Even  the  houses,  the  old  and  the  few  (very  few) 
new  ones,  somehow  do  not  look  Florida-like. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  sections  of  the  State. 
Although  not  at  all  tropical  in  appearance,  yet  all  the 
products  of  the  tropical  as  well  as  of  the  northern  cli- 
mates groAv  hei'e.  Cotton,  cane,  wheat,  oats,  bananas, 
oranges,  peaches,  corn,  guavas,  figs,  all  thrive  as  well  as  in 
any  of  their  special  regions.  Here  also  we  found  grass, 
a  good  sod,  that  seemed  refreshing  to  walk  on.     Prior  to 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.    '  59 

the  war  this  was  a  region  of  large  plantations  and  Avealthy 
planters.  All  seem  to  have  left,  as  their  slaves  left,  aban- 
doning everything.  The  houses  -decayed  and  were  de- 
molished, fences  were  destroyed,  broad  fields  have  gone 
to  waste,  and  weeds,  underbrush,  and  tangled  vines  have 
everywhere  taken  the  jalace  of  cultivated  crops. 

Next  morning  we  found  Mr.  Frederick  L.  Robertson, 
editor  of  the  "  Brooks ville  Crescent,"  an  old  friend  of  the 
Doctor's.  Horses  were  procured,  and  we  rode  to  the  resi- 
ence  of  State  Senator  II.  T.  Lykes,  on  Spring  Ilill,  six 
miles  distant  ;  then  across  the  country,  ten  miles,  to  the 
large  estate  of  Mr.  "William  Hope,  where  we  found  all 
varieties  of  vegetables  growing  finely,  and  rode  tlirough 
a  field  of  several  hundred  acres  of  oats,  spreading  out 
over  the  hills  and  valleys — Ohio,  surely,  except  for  the 
season  (it  was  February)  !  Good  roads,  numerous  brooks, 
hard-wood  forests,  broad  fields  (abandoned  mostly),  plenty 
of  game,  was  the  result  of  our  observations.  The  town 
is  the  county-seat  of  Hernando  County,  and  contains  the 
court-house — a  large,  new,  wooden  building,  a  good  struct- 
ure, but  provokingly  plain  in  design — three  groceries,  two 
or  three  saloons,  and  about  thirty  dwellings,  nearly  all 
small  cottages,  generally  surrounded  by  small  gardens,  and 
groves  of  orange  and  such  trees.  Everything  looks  old- 
fashioned  and  of  out-in-the-country  style.  Yet  in  lo- 
cation and  soil  it  is  the  gem  of  South  Florida  ;  and,  if 
a  railroad  should  ever  reach  here — which  is  very  likely, 
for  any  road  to  Tampa  will  surely  pass  through  Brooks- 
ville — it  will  very  probably  become,  in  time,  the  center  of 
a  thickly  settled,  prosperous  region. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  set  out  on  our  journey  to 
Tampa,  fifty  miles  distant.  Fort  Taylor  was  reached  at 
twilight.  This  })lace,  once  the  site  of  a  military  camp, 
now  has  but  one  house,  surrounded  by  a  fine  grove  of 
old   oranoe-trees.     About  midnicfht  we  reached  the  hum- 


60  FLORIDA. 

ble  cabin  of  tho  stage-station,  where  Ave  obtained  lodg- 
ings which,  though  very  rough,  were  accepta])le  after  our 
ride  of  twenty-six  miles.  The  route  had  been  through  a 
slightly  rolling  pine-wood  region,  with  a  dark  soil  of 
average  fertility,  few  lakes,  no  settlers,  and  very  little 
hammock. 

Early  next  morning  we  were  out  looking  about  the 
ranch,  a  plain  little  roughly  constructed  building,  sur- 
rounded by  numerous  out-houses,  and  a  garden,  where  a 
variety  of-  tropical  plants  were  thriving.  The  keeper 
was  a  genuine  curiosity,  an  old  regular  army  veteran, 
a  native  of  Maine,  who  came  to  this  country  as  a  pri- 
vate of  the  Second  Regiment  U.  S.  Artillery  to  fight 
the  Seminoles  in  1835,  and  has  remained  here  ever  since. 
After  a  breakfast,  abundant  but  rudely  prepared,  we 
resumed  our  journey,  passing  throiigh  a  region  similar 
in  all  respects  to  that  traversed  on  the  previous  day,  lone- 
ly and  monotonous,  rolling  pine-land  of  average  fertility, 
no  settlers,  but  abundance  of  game. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  Hillsborough  River,  a  stream 
about  fifty  feet  wide  and  eight  or  ten  feet  deep,  and 
crossed  it  on  a  ■svell-constructed  toll-bridge.  Beyond  the 
river  the  appearance  of  the  country  changes  very  much, 
being  a  high,  rolling,  open-hammock  region,  with  fair 
soil  and  a  heavy  growth  of  native  wire-grass.  Cleai'ings 
and  houses,  gardens  and  groves,  began  to  appear,  and 
we  were  once  more  in  a  region  of  settlers.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  we  at  last  drove  into  Tampa,  very' hot,  much 
fatigued,  dusty,  and  hungry.  The  last  few  miles  had 
been  over  very  sandy  and  parched  roads,  making  hard 
pulling  for  the  tired  horses  ;  and  we  felt  exceedingly 
glad  Avhen  we  halted  at  last  in  front  of  a  cool,  quiet, 
inviting-looking  hotel,  that  much  resembled  a  neat  and 
comfortable  village  dwelling. 

We   had   completed  a  long   journey  seldom    taken — a 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  61 

ride  across  the  heart  of  South  Florida  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Gulf,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  forty 
miles  in  a  direct  line,  but  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
as  traversed  by  us,  with  side-excursions  to  visit  promi- 
nent places. 

Tampa  is  an  old  town,  the  name  being  associated 
with  the  very  earliest  Spanish  history  of  the  State,  and 
is  well  known  as  "a  place  in  Florida"  by  all  school- 
children throughout  the  country. 

It  is  quaint  and  old-fashioned  in  appearance,  contains 
about  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the 
upper  end  of  Tamjja  Bay.  It  is  laid  out  with  consider- 
able regularity  into  squares,  with  streets  of  usual  width, 
level  and  clean,  but  very  sandy.  Having  been  designed 
for  a  big  place,  the  town  is  much  scattered,  the  houses 
average  few  to  the  block,  and,  though  the  sidewalks  are 
generally  good,  there  is  much  "  ciitting  across-lots "  in 
going  from  one  point  to  another.  Few  of  the  dwellings 
are  pretentious,  but  they  have  a  comfortable,  home-like 
appearance,  all  standing  in  ample  grounds,  and  nearly  all 
having  abundance  of  tropical  fruits,  plants,  flowers,  shrubs 
and  vines,  sea-shells,  and  the  like,  reminding  the  visitor 
that  he  is  in  a  tropical  clime. 

The  public  buildings — court-house,  schools,  churches, 
and  halls — are  all  well-built,  fair-sized  structures, "  quite 
creditable  to  the  remote  little  community.  There  is  no 
large  hotel  of  the  customary  hotel  style,  and  such  an  es- 
tablishment is  greatly  needed.  The  present  accommoda- 
tions for  travelers  are  three  small  dwellings,  neat,  clean, 
and  well  kept,  but  not  roomy — mere  boarding-houses,  in 
fact.  The  business-houses  are  all  plain,  village-like,  low- 
roofed,  wooden  structures,  scattered  irregularly  along  the 
street  leading  to  the  wharf.  They  generally  carry  good 
stocks,  and  a  large  business  is  transacted  here. 

The  United  States  Government  owns  a  lar<xe  tract  of 


02  FLORIDA. 

land,  forming  a  peninsula  wliieh  reaches  out  into  the 
harbor.  It  is  a  lovely  spot  of  about  seventy-five  acres, 
quite  like  a  park,  with  rolling  surface,  covered  with  good 
sod  of  native  grasses,  while  clumps  of  low-growth  bushes 
and  gigantic  oaks  and  hard- wood  trees  are  scattei'ed  about. 
The  view,  looking  out  over  the  harbor,  is  very  beautiful. 
The  barracks,  officers'  quarters,  cavalry-stables,  hospital, 
and  other  military  buildings,  are  scattered  about  the 
ground,  and  are  all  old,  and  have  a  neglected,  dilapi- 
dated appearance.  No  troops  are  permane^itly  stationed 
here  now  ;  but  occasional  detachments  are  sent  here  for 
a  few  months  for  sanitary  benefit.  A  walk  over  these 
grounds  is  quite  pleasant,  and  is  one  of  the  "  proper 
things  "  for  the  visitor  to  do. 

Large  tracts  of  land  in  the  suburbs  have  been  cleared 
of  their  pine-woods,  laid  out  into  long,  wide  avenues, 
and  named  after  Northern  States,  the  plots  compi-ising 
ten  or  more  acres  each.  Many  of  these  lots  have  been 
sold,  and  the  purchasers  have  evidently  spent  much 
money  and  time  in  improving  them.  The  residences  are 
unusually  well  built,  tastefully  ornamented,  and  brightly 
painted,  while  neat  barns,  out-houses,  fences,  sidewalks, 
and  the  civilized  improvements  usual  in  Northern  pro- 
gressive communities,  are  everywhere  seen — the  reason, 
perhaps,  being  that  the  settlers  are  nearly  all  Northern 
people.  In  spite  of  all  this  labor,  taste,  and  enterprise, 
however,  there  is  a  very  noticeable  number  of  vacant 
houses,  showing  signs  of  abandonment. 

The  appearance  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  soil 
in  the  vicinity  of  Tampa  is  sandy,  with  an  unhealthy, 
ashy-gray  color,  that  promises  little  for  productiveness. 
There  are  occasional  ti'acts  of  dark,  rich  soil,  but  these 
are  scarce,  and  very  seldom  for  sale.  There  is  good  soil 
in  that  region  lying  along  the  coast  and  on  the  islands, 
but  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Tampa  I  think  it 


TOUR   OF  TEE  STATE.  63 

is  mostly  poor,  and  nearly  valueless  for  purj^oses  of  fruit 
or  vegetable  culture. 

The  harbor  contains  numerous  islands  and  is  quite 
pretty.  It  is  alive  with  fish  and  ducks.  We  found  the 
Hon.  T.  K,  Spencer,  of  the  "  Sunland  Tribune,"  and  en- 
joyed an  agreeable  visit  Avith  him,  looking  about  the 
place.  The  Peninsular  Railroad,  now  in  process  of  con- 
struction through  the  central  region  of  Florida,  will 
doubtless  soon  place  Tampa  in  direct  connection  with  the 
commercial  centers  of  the  East  and  North.  This  will 
greatly  benefit  it,  besides  opening  up  to  settlement  a 
large  and  at  present  nearly  uninhabited  region. 

It  was  a  beautiful  morning  Avhen  we  took  our  de- 
parture from  Tampa,  going  aboard  the  little  steamer 
that  carried  us  down  the  harbor  to  the  handsome  ocean- 
steamer  Lizzie  Henderson,  one  of  the  fine  line  of  Gulf- 
steamers  (the  "  Henderson  Line ")  that  ply  between  New 
Orleans,  Pensacola,  St.  Mark's,  Cedar  Keys,  Key  West, 
and  Havana.  The  boats  of  this  line  are  large,  roomy, 
well  equipped,  and  well  supplied.  The  freight  and  pas- 
sengers were  rapidly  transferred  from  the  roomy  old 
lighter  to  the  steamer,  and  we  were  soon  steaming  do\vn 
the  broad  bay  to  Manatee,  thirty  miles  distant  on  Man- 
atee River,  which  flows  into  the  extreme  southern  por- 
tion of  the  bay.  Immense  flocks  of  ducks  of  several 
kinds,  innumerable  porpoises,  and  countless  fish  leaping 
out  of  the  bright  waters,  were  constantly  in  sight.  The 
watery  pathway  of  certain  shoals  could  be  traced  by  the 
sight  of  hundreds  of  fish  of  the  six-pound  size  leaping 
out  of  tlie  water  in  a  rapid,  direct  line. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  up  the  broad  river 
several  miles  to  JNIanatce,  where  a  short  stop  was  made 
to  take  on  cargo.  1'here  was  no  ojiportunity  to  visit 
the  settlement,  or  to  examine  the  soil  thereabout,  but 
the  dwelliuGcs  located  aloncc  the  banks  of   the  river  were 


G4:  FLORIDA. 

mostly  roomy  and  neat-looking  houses,  and  several  gar- 
deners were  at  the  wharf  with  vegetables  of  large  va- 
riety and  excellent  quality. 

The  sun  was  setting  brilliantly  as  we  passed  out  of 
the  bay  into  the  Gulf  ;  and  the  islands  with  their  luxu- 
riant vegetation,  the  solitary,  tall,  white  lighthouse,  and 
the  tropical-appearing  bar  on  which  it  stands,  the  poi-- 
poises  disporting  in  all  directions,  and  the  deep-blue  wa- 
ters of  the  Gulf,  all  made  a  scene  beautiful  to  behold  and 
long  to  be  remembered. 

At  sunrise  the  next  morning  we  were  entering  the 
lovely  harbor  of  Cedar  Keys,  passing  near  a  number  of 
pretty  islands,  among  them  Atsenna  Otie  Island,  where 
there  is  a  large  saw-mill  and  machine-shop  owned  by 
Faber  brothers,  of  New  York,  giving  employment  to  a 
colony  of  thirty  families,  mostly  Germans,  engaged  in 
cutting  and  preparing  the  cedar-Avood  for  the  famous 
Faber  lead-pencils.  At  the  wharves  of  the  little  seajjort 
and  railroad  terminus  we  found  live  large  steamers  and 
numerous  sailing-vessels,  giving  it  quite  an  appearance  of 
commercial  enterprise. 

The  Doctor,  Professor  J.  N.  Comstock  (entomologist 
of  the  Agricultural  Bureau  at  Washington,  whom  we 
had  met  on  the  steamer),  and  I,  enjoyed  the  day  stroll- 
ing about  the  streets  and  limited  suburbs,  visiting  the 
curious  shell-mound — quite  a  hill,  composed  of  sea-shells 
of  all  kinds,  such  as  are  found  along  that  coast.  It  is 
the  scientific  supposition  that  this  strange  mound  Avas 
erected  by  a  race  of  prehistoric  dwellers  in  this  region, 
who  resorted  here  to  feast  on  oysters,  clams,  etc.  It 
offers  a  superb  position  on  which  to  build  a  large  winter 
hotel,-  for  the  scene  in  all  directions,  as  viewed  from  tliat 
elevation,  is  beautiful,  the  whole  harbor  and  the  Gulf 
being  visible.  We  met  my  old  friend  Major  Parsons 
hei-e,  and  had  a  very  agreeable  visit  and  a  tramp  about  the 


TOUR   OF  THE  STATE.  65 

town  with  him.  His  reminiscences  of  Cedar  Keys,  extend- 
ing back  over  a  period  of  forty  years  since  he  first  came 
here  from  the  North,  a  clerk  in  the  Quartermastex-'s  De- 
partment of  the  United  States  Army,  nnder  old  General 
Z.  Taylor,  are  very  interesting.  In  the  afternoon,  while 
the  Doctor  dozed,  Professor  Comstock  and  I  went  down 
to  the  beach,  where  the  tide  was  out,  and  busied  ourselves 
pulling  out  oysters  from  the  great  quantities  that  solidly 
line  all  the  shores  of  the  bay,  and  feasting  ourselves  to 
repletion  on  that  luscious  bivalve. 

Cedar  Keys  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  has  several  large 
mercantile  establishments,  all  carrying  extensive  stocks, 
and  evidently  prosperous.  Their  patronage  is  derived 
from  the  settlers  all  along  the  const  and  many  goodly 
rivers  that  empty  into  the  Gulf  there.  There  is  very 
little,  if  any,  good  land  on  the  adjacent  mainland.  The 
trade  is  solely  the  result  of  its  railroad  and  shipping  ad- 
vantages. The  buildings  are  mostly  constructed  of  the 
substantial  coquina-stone,  and,  with  its  main  street  (in 
fact,  there  is  only  one  street  in  the  place)  paved  with 
shells,  all  white  mortary  in  appearance,  it  much  resembles 
an  old  Spanish  seaport. 

Early  on  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  were  again 
on  our  travels — the  final  stage — seated  in  one  of  the 
handsome  coaches  of  the  Atlantic,  Gulf  and  West  India 
Transit  Company  Kailroad,  better  known  in  its  abbrevi- 
ated and  more  convenient  form  of  the  "  Transit,"  that 
crosses  the  State  from  Cedar  Keys  to  Fernandina.  Gaines- 
ville, Waldo,  Santa  Fc,  Starke,  and  Lawley,  all  thrifty, 
busy,  growing,  enterprising  places,  of  which  accounts  are 
given  elsewhere,  were  passed.  AValdo  is  an  especially 
pretty  ])lace,  and  the  inhabitants  show  much  taste  and 
care,  of  which  they  may  well  feel  proud,  and  for  which 
they  deserve  much  credit.  Near  the  depot  is  a  neat  lit- 
tle park,  fenced  nicely  ;  the  grounds  all  about  the  pretty 


eG  FLORIDA. 

town  are  clean  and  grassy  as  a  lawn  ;  also,  near  the  de- 
pot is  a  band-stand  of  neat  design,  at  the  base  of  a  ship- 
shape, mast-rigged  flag- staff,  the  gift  of  a  jolly  old  sea- 
captain  resident.  The  dwellings,  mostly  of  cottage  style, 
are  neat,  tasty,  trim,  and  clean,  of  generally  good  design, 
surrounded  by  lawns  of  grasses  and  floAvers,  gardens  of 
fruits  and  vegetables,  all  showing  careful  labor  and  at- 
tention. The  soil  thereabout  is  fertile,  and  the  people 
are  energetic  and  industrious.  Waldo  is  a  pretty  spot,  a 
good  place  for  either  health-seekers  or  wealth-seekers. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Jacksonville,  and 
the  "  Tour  of  Florida  with  Hon.  Seth  French,  Commis- 
sioner of  Immigration,"  was  ended. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

A    TKIP    THROUGH    XORTH    FLORIDA. 

It  was  the  middle  of  March  when  Captain  Samviel 
Fairbanks,  Assistant  Commissioner  of  Immigration,  set 
out  on  an  official  pilgrimage  through  the  northern  sec- 
tion of  the  State,  in  search  of  information  for  the  use  of 
his  bureau.  The  Captain  was  peculiarly  well  adapted  for 
his  official  position,  and  especially  to  investigate  this  por- 
tion of  the  State,  which  had  in  all  its  parts  become  fa- 
miliar to  him,  through  a  residence  of  over  forty  years. 
He  came  originally  from  central  New  York,  and  there 
are  many  other  people  here  from  that  favorite  section  of 
the  Empire  State. 

The  writer  accepted  a  cordial  invitation  to  join  Cap- 
tain Fairbanks  on  the  proposed  trip,  and  enjoyed  a  de- 
lightful time,  for  the  Captain  was  a  pleasant,  entertain- 
ing traveling  companion,  fitU  of  interesting  information, 
anecdotes,  and  reminiscences  of  the  State. and  the  people. 
The  previously  described  journey  in  the  other  portions 
of  the  State  had  given  me  a  fine  opportunity  to  see  the 
wilder  and  more  remote  regions,  and  the  present  trip 
gave  me  an  opportunity  to  learn  of  the  older  and  more 
populous  sections.  Our  route  lay  through  the  counties  of 
all  the  northern  and  western  portions  of  the  State,  Avhere, 
in  the  "  piping  times  of  peace,"  the  ante-war  days,  the 
true  era  of  Southern  prosperity,  the  planters  of  Florida 
lived  and  flourished   and  waxed  wealthy.     In   those  days 


G8  FLORIDA. 

Cotton  Avas  King,  and  tlic  broad  rolling  acres  of  the  vast 
plantations  that  covered  tlie  hills  and  beautiful  valleys  of 
the  charming  region  Avere  everywhere  white  with  their 
great  crops  of  the  snowy  staple.  "  P^very  acre  meant  an- 
other bale,  and  every  bale  meant  another  nigger,"  was 
the  current  saying  in  regard  to  it.  This  was  always,  from 
the  days  of  its  transfer  to  American  rule,  a  favorite  re- 
gion with  the  cotton-planters  ;  here  were  obtained  the 
largest  yields  per  acre,  of  the  best  quality  (the  famous 
sea-island  variety),  and  the  earliest  in  market. 

AVe  left  Jacksonville  late  one  afternoon,  by  the  Flor- 
ida Central  Railroad,  changing  at  Live  Oak  (the  county- 
seat  of  Suwanee  County)  to  the  Jacksonville,  Pensacola 
and  ^Mobile  Railroad.  The  early  morning  hours  found  us 
speeding  through  Ohio,  Wisconsin,  or  central  New  York  ; 
certainly,  it  was  not  Florida  in  appearance — hilly,  with 
a  rich,  brown,  clayey  soil,  solid  roads,  rocks,  and  fields  of 
grass,  just  like  the  Northern  States.  Early  in  the  fore- 
noon we  arrived  at  Quincy,  the  county-seat  of  Gadsden 
County,  and  took  the  stage  from  the  depot  to  the  town, 
one  and  a  half  mile  distant  by  a  road  which  w^nds  prettily 
over  hills  and  through  fine  forests. 

Quincy  is  a  quaint,  old-fashioned  town,  Southern  in 
appearance  (not,  however,  of  the  dingy,  miserable,  "  crack- 
er "  style),  a  representative  type  of  once-flourishing  in- 
dustry. It  has^  large,  park-like,  w^ell-fenced  square,  Avith 
the  court-house  standing  in  the  center,  one  of  the  old 
Southern  regulation  kind  of  square  four-roomed-on-two- 
floors  buildings.  Huge  oaks  and  similar  trees  shade  the 
park,  and  around  it  or  adjacent  to  it  are  the  "  city  "  build- 
ings, jail,  etc.,  with  plain  and  rather  faded  brick  stores,  the 
usual  number  of  offices,  pumps  and  water-trough,  and  the 
universal  Southern  hitching-rail  on  high  posts,  with  al- 
ways a  number  of  saddle  mules  and  horses  attached.  Over 
all  is  an  impalpable  but  unmistakable  mantle  of  mildewy 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  69 

decay,  of  neglect  rapidly  verging  on  dilapidation.  Such 
is  the  general  appearance  of  the  business  portion  of 
Quiney. 

The  suburbs  make  an  impression  altogether  more  favor- 
able. The  residences  here  are  mostly  large,  well-built 
structures,  with  handsome  house-grounds,  gardens,  lawns, 
out-houses,  shade-trees,  sidewalks,  etc. — in  all  respects,  ex- 
cept that  of  a  few  semi-tropical  products,  closely  resem- 
bling the  usual  thrifty  appearance  of  a  steady,  old,  agri- 
cultural center  in  the  North.  The  weather  at  the  time  of 
our  visit  was  lovely  (it  was  March  10th)  ;  fruits,  flowers, 
and  gardens  of  thrifty  vegetables  were  everywhere  visible ; 
the  doors  and  Avindows  stood  wide  open,  verandas  were 
occupied,  croquet-parties  dotted  the  lawns  ;  and  "  The 
Pirates  of  Penzance,"  and  other  latest  music,  was  every- 
where heard  floating  through  the  ojien  windows,  from  the 
keys  of  skillfully  played  pianos.  At  the  handsome  resi- 
dence of  Postmaster  Davidson,  we  were  shown  some  of 
the  finest  specimens  of  the  exquisitely  beautiful,  golden- 
hued,  feathery  pampas-grass  that  I  ever  saw,  and  it  grows 
in  many  other  gardens  thereabout. 

The  views  across  the  country  in  all  directions  are  flne, 
ranging  over  broad  fields,  hills,  valleys,  hard-wood  forests, 
orchards,  good  fences,  and  roomy  residences — in  all  a 
beautiful  region  exhibiting  unmistakable  signs  of  agricult- 
ural prosperity.  Nowhere  does  live-stock  grow  better. 
In  the  near  future,  when  the  old  (but  worthy)  class  of 
men  and  women  shall  have  passed  away  with  their  ante- 
bellum ideas  of  business,  crops,  social  "  ranks,"  educa- 
tion, slave-labor,  and  their  bitter  memories  of  the  war, 
with  its  defeated  hopes  and  its  "lost  cause" — when  tliis 
race,  with  such  memories  in  their  hearts,  shall  be  gone, 
and  the  young  generation  of  their  offspring,  filled  with 
new  ideas,  new  aspirations,  new  hopes,  shall  be  in  full 
control,  then,  I  believe,   Quiney  and  all  the   other  towns 


TO 


FLORIDA. 


of  that  fair,  fertile  region  will  be  among  the  pleasantest 
garden-spots  in  all  America.  At  present  the  goodly  peojile 
are  "  brooding  upon  memories." 

Chattahoochee,  the  jjresent  terminus  of  the  Jackson- 
ville, Pensacola  and  Mobile  Railroad,  is  merely  a  little 
hamlet  on  the  Chattahoochee  River,  close  to  the  Alabama 
line,  and  has  stage  connection  -with  ^larianna,  the  county- 


ViEW  ON  THE  Escambia  Eivkk,  near  Pensacola. 


seat  of  Jackson  County,  another  of  those  old-style,  quiet 
inland  towns,  a  description  of  one  of  which  answers  for 
all.  The  State  Insane  Asylum  is  located  at  Chattahoo- 
chee, a  roomy  old  structure,  clean,  and  having  an  air  of 
comfort  and  adaptation  to  its  purpose,  and  containing 
about  thirty  inmates.  The  river,  in  that  region,  is  quite 
a  large,  respectable  stream,  the  outlet  of  an  extensive  back 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  KORTH  FLORIDA.  71 

■  country — once  the  water-way  of  an  immense  traffic — to 
the  Gulf-port  of  Appalachicola.  The  scenery  thereabout 
is  very  fine,  and  the  atmosj)here  noticeably  soft  and 
clear.  This  is  attributed  to  the  fact  that  it  is  due  north 
of  the  Gulf,  and  is  always  tempered  by  the  famous 
"  Gulf-breezes." 

From  Marianna,  a  long  ride  by  stage-coach  brought 
us  to  Pensacola.  The  ride  was  tedious  and  fatiguing, 
but  not  really  monotonous,  for  the  scenery  was  very  at- 
tractive, except  in  occasional  tracts.  Vernon,  Euchee 
Anna,  and  Milton,  passed  en  route,  are  all  three  county- 
seats,  and  are  small,  drowsy-looking  towns,  old-fashioned, 
and  in  all  respects  typical  specimens  of  the  better  class 
of  representative  Southern  county-seats.  A  square,  an 
old-fashioned  tavern,  a  court-house,  and  a  fe\v  shops,  may 
be  said  to  compose  each  and  all  of  them. 

On  every  side,  in  all  that  region,  including  Gadsden 
and  adjoining  counties,  were  seen  large  old  plantations, 
and  roomy,  old,  Southern-style  planters'  residences,  giving 
evidence  of  a  long-settled  region,  that  had  suddenly  been 
arrested  m  its  growth,  and  was  in  a  state  of  suspended 
animation.  Yet  it  is  a  good  country,  and  has,  in  fact,  a 
steady  growth,  though  it  is  of  a  kind  not  strikingly  per- 
ceptible, being  in  croj)s  and  products,  instead'  of  houses, 
factories,  and  such  town  improvements,  that  are  more 
likely  to  catch  the  attention. 

The  great,  crying  need  of  all  that  portion  of  the  State 
is  a  railroad,  and  the  series  of  causes  that  have  pre- 
vented the  completion  of  the  Jacksonville,  Pensacola  and 
Mobile  Railroad  are  disgraceful  to  all  concerned.  All 
the  parties — the  moneyed  cliques,  railroad-wreckers,  law- 
yers, and  agents — that  have  for  years  defeated  the  con- 
struction of  that  road  across  this  fine  region  to  its  natu- 
ral terminus  at  Pensacola,  deserve  the  honest  execrations 
of  all  who  reside  there  ;  for    they  have  greatly  damaged 


72 


FLORIDA. 


and  retarded  the    growth  and  prosperity  of    what    ought 
to  be  one  of  the  most  flourishing  sections  of  Florida.* 

Pensacola    is    a   charming  city,  clean,  nicely  laid    out^ 


Stbeet-Scese  in  Pensacola. 


Avith  great  shade-trees,  handsome  homes,  the  houses  gen- 
erally of  good  architectural  taste,  with  pretty  lawns,  ar- 
bors, gardens,  etc.  The  navy-yard  and  fortifications,  with 
their  garrisons  and  official  staffs  of  both  branches  of  the 
service,  give  it  an  animated  appearance  ;  and  the  officers 
and  their  families  contribute  very  much  to  the  high  repu- 
tation for  culture  and  refinement  enjoyed  by  the  society 
there.  The  city  has  a  large  commerce,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  important  lumber-shipping  ports  in  the  United  States. 
In  respect  to  attractions  for  tourists  and  visitors,  Pen- 
sacola is  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  Florida  ;  and, 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  tlie  courts  have,  after  many  years  of 
tedious  and  costly  litigation,  awarded  the  railroad  to  its  rightful  owners, 
the  Dutch  company,  who,  it  is  understood,  will  at  once  complete  the  linj 
across  the  State  as  originally  contemplated. 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA. 


73 


instead  of  attempting  a  detailed  description  of  my  own,  I 
will  quote  the  following  passages  from  a  well-written  and 
tastefully  printed  local  hand-book  : 

"The  splendid  Bay  of  Pensacola,  unrivaled  for  its  beau- 
ty, depth,  and  security,  was  discovered  by  Pamfilo  de  Xar- 
vaez,  in  1525.  Various  adventurers  gave  it  different  names, 
as  Port  de  Ancluse  and  St,  Mary's  Bay,  but  that  of  Pensa- 
cola, which  prevailed,  was  the  true  name  among  the  Ind- 


ViEw  OF  Bay  krom  Shot  Pabk,  Navy-Yakd. 


ians,  the  natives  of  the  country.  The  first  settlement  was 
made  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1G86,  The  first  Governor  was 
Andre  Arivola,  who  constructed  a  small  fort,  called  San 
Carlos,  and  erected  a  church  upon  the  present  site  of  Fort 
Barrancas,  The  French  took  Pensacola  in  1719  ;  the  Span- 
iards retook  it,  and  the  French  again  took  it  in  the  same 


74  FLORIDA. 

year  and  kept  it  until  1T22,  when  it  was  restored  to  Spain. 
In  the  mean  time,  Pensacola  liad  been  removed  to  the  west 
end  of  Santa  Rosa  Island,  near  the  present  site  of  Fort 
Pickens,  where  the  Spaniards  constructed  a  fort,  which  af- 
terward was  improved  by  the  English  General  Ilaldemand. 
The  settlement  remained  on  the  island  until  1754,  when,  the 
town  being  partly  inundated,  the  site  was  removed  to  the 
magnificent  location  which  it  now  occupies.  Pensacola  was 
ceded  to  the  English  in  17G3,  by  whom  it  was  laid  off  in 
regular  form  in  1TG5.  The  town  surrendered  to  the  Span- 
ish arms  in  1781.  On  the  7th  of  November,  1814,  General 
Andrew  Jackson,  with  the  American  army,  entered  the 
town,  when  the  English  fleet  in  the  bay  destroyed  the  forts, 
San  Carlos  (at  Barrancas)  and  Santa  Rosa. 

"  By  consulting  the  map  of  Pensacola  and  its  surround- 
ings, the  reader  will  observe  the  network  of  watei'-courses, 
bays,  and  bayous  centering  at  that  city.  The  water  is  clear, 
bright,  and  beautiful.  Surf-bathing  upon  Santa  Rosa  beach, 
as  enjoyable  as  language  can  express,  the  salt-water  bathing 
in  the  bath-houses  of  the  bay,  and  bathing  in  fresh  water 
as  clear  as  crystal,  can  all  be  had  within  a  distance  of  seven 
miles.  The  Perdido  Bay  is  one  of  the  loveliest  sheets  of 
water  in  the  State,  rivaled  by  the  Escambia  Bay,  Avith  its 
bluffs  and  ever-moving  fleets.  Any  attempt  to  ])articular- 
ize  becomes  confusing,  as  the  special  beauties  and  attrac- 
tions of  the  different  bays  and  bayous  are  remembered. 
Escambia  River  is  the  '  Ocklawaha '  of  West  Florida,  The 
stranger  who  wishes  to  enjoy  a  short  trip  will  be  j^leased 
as  the  steamer  plows  through  the  broad,  ])lacid  waters  of 
Escambia  Bay,  and  then  delighted  with  the  luxuriance  of 
the  tropical  growth  as  the  vessel  winds  its  way  up  the  nar- 
row and  tortuous  channel  of  Escambia  River  to  Molino. 
At  this  point  the  excursionist  can  take  the  train  and  return 
by  rail  to  Pensacola. 

"  The  fresh-water  fishing  is  superb.  The  waters  liter- 
ally swarm  with  all  kinds  of  fish,  notably  trout,  black  bass, 
and  pike.  All  varieties  of  perch  abound,  including  a  sj^e- 
cial  kind,  a  very  game  fish,  called  bream.  It  is  not  unusual 
for  a  good  angler  to  pull  out  fifty  to  sixty  of  these  fish  in 
an  hour,  weighing  from  a  half  to  one  pound.  Both  in  salt 
and  fresh  water,  fishing  is  carried  on  with  pleasure  and 
profit  the  entire  year.    In  the  bay  and  bayous  every  descrip- 


A    TRIP   TIIBOUGU  NORTE  FLORIDA.  75 

tion  of  salt-water  fish  abounds,  and,  in  the  season,  fifty  cents 
will  purchase  half  a  dozen  Spanish  mackerel  of  the  size  for 
which  the  epicure  pays  seventy-five  cents  for  one  half  in  the 


Specimens  of  Pensacola  Fish 

restaurants  of  New  York  City.  These  fish,  and  the  salt- 
water trout,  give  special  excitement  to  those  who  love  a 
contest  Avith  a  very  game  fish.  No  one  can  claim  to  have 
seen  what  fishing«is  until  he  has  visited  the  snapper  banks 
off  Santa  Rosa  Island.  There  the  famous  red  snapper  can 
be  caught,  two  at  a  time,  weighing  from  five  pounds  to 
sixty,  as  rapidly  as  the  line  is  thrown  in.  The  limit  to  the 
quantity  catchable  is  commensurate  with  the  physical  en- 
durance of  the  catcher. 

"  The  pleasure  of  boating  at  Pensacola  is  not  confined 
to  fishing  or  idly  rolling  on  the  mighty  wave,  or  smoothly 
plowing  the  placid  waters  ;  but  added  to  these  charms  are 
the  numerous  places  in  the  vicinity  to  go  to.     The  stranger 


76 


FLORIDA. 


who  may  visit  it  will  not  wonrlcr  at  finding  first  on  this  list 
Santa  Kosa  Island.  Upon  its  beach,  mid-day,  in  its  over- 
flowing brilliancy,  makes  the  beholder  feel  as  if,  according 
to  Milton,  *  another  morn  had  risen  on  mid-noon.'  The 
sunset  comes  with  a  splendor  and  glory  unknown  to  more 
northern  climes.  ,  .  ,  Santa  Rosa  Island  is  a  sand-key  of 
the  Gulf,  forty  miles  long,  and  varying  in  breadth  from  a 


Ruins  of  Fort  McKae,  witu  Fokt  Pickexs  in  the  Distance. 


fifth  of  a  mile  to  over  a  mile  across  ;  it  is  the  breakwater 
of  Pensacola  Harbor,  and  receives  the  shock  of  the  rolling 
seas  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  which  often  break  against  it  in 
fury,  while  the  waters  of  the  bay  within  are  still  as  a  mill- 
pond,  and  scarce  a  ripple  washes  the  beach  of  the  city  front, 
seven  miles  away,  though  the  water  at  the  city  is  as  salt  as 
that  in  the  center  of  the  Gulf,  The  sea-beach  of  the  island 
is  a  gently  sloping  expanse  of  white  sand,  back  and  forth 


A    TRIP    THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA. 


77 


on  which  the  advancing  and  receding  waves  will  glide  for 
hundreds  of  feet.  You  can  stand  where  no  water  is  one 
moment,  and  the  next  be  struggling  waist-deep  against  a 
surging  wave  that  is  climbing  up  the  strand.  This  beach 
is  the  incubator  of  the  great  turtles  of  the  Gulf.  Its  grad- 
ual incline,  the  easily  excavated  sand  beyond,  and  the  warm 
southern  exposure,  adapt  it  to  their  approach,  the  making 
of  nests,  and  hatching  of  their  eggs.  So  they  resort  to  it 
for  this  purpose,  and  in  due  time  the  young  turtles  are 
hatched,  unless  the  eggs  are  captured  by  the  various  creat- 
ures, biped  and  quadruped,  who  seek  them  in  the  season. 
From  Pensacola  over  to  the  island  is  about  seven  miles, 
and  as  the  land-breeze  of  the  night  sets  fair  across  the  bay, 
it  is  a  pleasant  trip  of  moonlight  nights  to  run  over  on  a 
sail-boat,  land  on  the    bay-shore,  walk  across  the  island, 


which  is  not  a  third  of  a  mile 
wide  opposite  the  city,  and 
seek  for  'turtle-crawls'  on  the 
Gulf-beach,  or  bathe  luxuri- 
ously in  the  surf.  The  '  crawl ' 
shows  on  the  sand  Avhere  the  under-shell  has  been  dragged 
along,  and,  following  this  up  to  a  point  above  the  wash  of 
the  highest  waves,  the  nest  is  found,  usually  about  two  and 
a  half  feet  below  the  surface.     A  single  nest  will  contain 


78  FLORIDA. 

from  one  liun<lrc(l  to  three  hundred  eggs.  At  Sabine  Pass, 
on  Santa  Rosa  Island,  alligators  are  found  by  the  ten  thou- 
sand, and  are  killed  in  large  numbers  by  hunters  who  fre- 
quent the  place. 

"  While  on  the  island,  very  few  visitors  fail  to  find  an 
interest  in  collecting  shells  and  sea-beans.  Then  comes  a 
visit  to  Fort  Pickens.  This  grand  and  historic  old  edifice, 
though  denuded  of  a  portion  of  the  iron  dogi  of  war  that 
used  to  bay,  not  ' deep-mouthed  Melcome  home,'  but  roars 
of  detialice,  still  possesses  a  multitude  of  pleasant  and  in- 
teresting siglits  and  objects  that  make  a  visit  there  both 
profitable  and  agreeable.  Across  the  bay  is  the  navy-yard, 
and  just  west  of  the  navy-yard  is  Fort  Barrancas.  Both 
are  beautiful,  and  will  interest  the  most  indifferent.  Added 
to  the  novelties  to  be  seen  is  the  delightful  society  enjoyed 
by  all  who  know  the  hospitable  and  intelligent  officers  of 
both  the  garrisons.  Below  Barrancas  is  the  Pensacola 
Lighthouse." 

An  interesting  and  agreeable  route  from  Pensacola  to 
Tallahassee  is  via  one  of  the  popular  Ilendei'son  line  of 
steamers  to  St.  Mark's,  and  thence  by  the  railroad.  The 
pleasures  of  a  Gulf  ti'ip  are  detailed  at  length  in  another 
chapter.  St.  Mark's  is  a  very  ancient  port,  one  of  the  set- 
tlements made  by  the  original  Spanish  explorers  of  Flor- 
ida. Shortly  after  its  settlement  a  large  stone  fort  and 
pier  w^ere  built ;  but  they  were  long  ago  permitted  to  de- 
cay, and  were  finally  destroyed  by  the  settlers  desiring  the 
cut  rock  for  their  own  uses.  It  is  now  a  deserted  village, 
only  two  or  three  small  and  unpretentious  buildings  mark- 
ing this  famous  spot,  romantic  in  historical  events,  beauti- 
ful in  scenery,  and  once  a  busy  mart,  the  second  seaport 
in  all  the  United  States  to  boast  of  a  railroad  terminus. 
From  here  to  Tallahassee,  twenty-one  miles  distant,  runs  a 
railroad,  built  in  1835-'36.  This  was,  in  its  early  days,  a 
very  busy  little  road,  the  outlet  of  all  the  productive  cot- 
ton region  lying  inland.  x\t  that  time  the  planters  lived  in 
princely  style,  fairly  rolling  in  wealth ;  for  those  were  the 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  79 

halcyon  days  of  the  slave-owning  cotton-planters,  and  this 
was  their  paradise.  The  road  is  now  almost  disused, 
trains  only  passing  over  it  twice  a  week,  on  "  steamer- 
day,"  connecting  with  the  weekly  Henderson  steamers, 

Tallahassee,  the  capital  of  the  State,  "the  floral  city  of 
the  flowery  South,"  is  one  of  the  loveliest  places  in  all 
America.  It  is  built  upon  the  broad,  gently  rolling  sur- 
face of  a  high  hill,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  other  lovely 
hills  and  deep  valleys,  for  it  is  in  a  region  of  hills,  valleys, 
and  lakes.  It  is  laid  out  in  squares,  with  Main  Street — 
which  is  its  principal  business  street — lined  mostly  on  one 
side  with  plain,  old-fashioned  brick  stores  for  a  distance  of 
four  blocks.  This  street  is  fairly  level  and  wide.  All  the 
other  streets  are  charmingly  irregular  and  uneven — in  fact, 
many  are  quite  declivitous — and  are  lined  with  grand,  old, 
mammoth-sized  magnolias,  oaks,  maples,  elms,  and  other 
magnificent  shade-trees.  Broad,  roomy,  open  squares  are 
frequent,  all  shady,  park-like,  and  inviting. 

At  one  end  of  the  city  stands  the  State-House,  a  large 
and  very  plain  brick  structure,  painted  a  light  color,  with  a 
front  and  rear  portico,  having  each  six  great  two-story  col- 
umns. It  stands  in  a  spacious  square  on  the  crest  of  the 
hill,  and  can  be  seen  from  a  long  distance.  The  grounds 
are  laid  out  with  winding  paths  and  lawns,  shaded  by 
many  grand  old  magnolias,  oaks,  and  the  like,  and  the  air 
is  redolent  with  perfume  from  the  many  flowers  always 
blooming  there. 

It  is  an  unpretentious  old  city,  with  an  air  of  village- 
like rustic  simplicity ;  no  factories  (except  one  cotton- 
mill)  ;  all  is  quiet,  country  life.  The  residence  avenues 
are  mostly  lined  with' cozy  little  cottages,  and  comfortable, 
roomy,  substantial  mansions  of  the  good  old-time  style  of 
architecture,  and  all  are  surrounded  by  neatly  fenced  lawns 
and  gardens,  almost  all  having  quite  ample  grounds,  well 
kept — and   flowers,   flowers,  flowers  !     Everywhere  in  the 


80  FLORIDA. 

greatest  abundance  are  flowers.  A  most  creditable  pride 
in  their  lovely  home-grounds  is  exhil)ited  by  the  citizens, 
who  seem  to  have  a  friendh'  rivalry  in  this  beautiful  orna- 
ment of  nature,  that  is  expressive  of  culture  and  a  fine  taste 
for  the  beautiful.     Tallahassee  is  truly  a  "  floral  "  city. 

The  suburbs  are  everywhere  lovely,  and  the  views 
from  the  streets  or  house-tops — especially  the  roof  of  the 
State-Hoase — are  exceedingly  fine.  The  surrounding  coun- 
try is  a  vast  range  of  hills,  valleys,  brooks,  lakes,  park- 
like clusters  of  large  trees,  broad,  Avell-cultivatcd  fields, 
large  plantation  dwellings  and  cotton-gins,  and  distant 
forests — in  all,  a  remarkably  beautiful  natural  panorama 
of  nature,  such  as  is  seen  nowhere  else  in  Florida. 

Here  we  remained  several  delightful  days  at  the  quaint, 
old,  tavern-like  "  City  Hotel,"  enjoying  numerous  drives 
about  the  surrounding  country.  One  beautiful  day  I  rode 
out  to  "  Goodwood,"  the  grand  old  estate  of  Major  Arvah 
Hopkins,  several  miles  out  of  town.  This  residence  was 
well  worth  visiting,  because  it  affords  a  striking  evi- 
dence of  how  elegantly  the  old-time  planters  enjoyed 
life.  Erected  in  1844,  it  comprises  numei'ous  buildings 
ranged  around  a  large  square  in  the  rear,  used  for  laun- 
dry, cook-house,  milk-house,  saddle  and  harness  house, 
etc.,  etc.  ;  and  the  spacious  surrounding  grounds  are 
laid  out  in  park-like  style,  with  paths,  lawns,  and  innu- 
merable strange  plants,  ferns,  and  flowers.  Another  day 
a  party  of  us  went  on  a  trip  to  Lake  Jackson,  a  large 
and  long  lake,  six  miles  from  the  city.  It  closely  re- 
sembles Cayuga  Lake  in  New  York,  surrounded  by  high 
bluffs,  all  cleared,  and  everywhere  the  broad  fields  reach- 
ing down  to  the  water's  edge. 

Captain  C.  E.  Dyke,  our  escort  on  this  trip,  and  in 
whose  company  I  enjoyed  many  other  rides  and  trips, 
besides  evenings  at  his  elegant  home,  is  one  of  the  most 
notable   residents  of    Florida.      A  native  of   New  Harap- 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.      "      81 

shire,  where  he  long  ago  learned  the  printer's  trade,  he 
came  to  this  State  in  1839,  and  at  once  found  a  "job" 
in  the  office  of  "  The  Floridian,"  established  in  1828. 
In  1847  he  had  worked  his  Avay  up  from  the  case  to  the 
editorial  chair,  and  in  that  year  assumed  control  of  the 
paper,  which  he  has  ever  since  so  ably  conducted,  with- 
out a  single  failure  to  "go  to  press"  regularly  each  week 
in  all  that  long  period  of  time.  Besides  being  the  Nes- 
tor of  Florida  editors,  hg  has  for  many  years  been  State's 
printer  ;  and  his  office,  close  by  the  State-House,  is  a 
favorite  consultation-room  for  all  State  officials,  who,  as 
a  rule,  have  always  placed  implicit  confidence  in  his 
opinions  and  advice.  He  is  undoubtedly  the  best  in- 
formed upon  all  matters,  political  and  legal,  pertaining 
to  Florida,  as  a  Territory  and  as  a  State,  of  any  one 
living.  For  upward  of  forty  years  he  has  been  the  in- 
timate friend,  confidant,  or  adviser  of  nearly  all  public 
officials.  Knowing  all  the  secret  and  unwritten  history 
of  the  State,  his  stock  of  historical  and  personal  remi- 
niscences is  very  great,  and,  if  "  written  up,"  would  make 
a  volume  at  once  interesting  and  instructive. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  resorts  in  the  capital  at  the 
time  of  our  visit  was  the  official  apartments  of  Governor 
W.  IT.  Bloxham,  then  Secretary  of  State.  An  unusually 
genial,  off-hand,  sociable  gentleman,  utterly  free  from 
ostentation,  he  is  the  favorite  of  all  the  State  officials, 
and  of  a  large  circle  of  life-long,  intimate  friends.  Gov- 
ernor Bloxham  is  a  native  of  Florida,  and  is  the  first 
gentleman  elected  to  that  position  who  has  been  able  to 
boast  of  such  a  distinction.  He  was  born  very  nearly 
within  sight  of  the  capital,  where  he  now  sits  as  Gov- 
ernor ;  and  his  comfortable  old  home  near  the  city,  stand- 
ing in  the  midst  of  an  immense  plantation  of  several  hun- 
dred carefully  cleared  and  cultivated  acres,  is  one  of  the 
genuine,  old-style  cotton-plantations  of  the  most  hospita- 


82  FLORIDA. 

ble  sort.  In  the  electoral  campaign  of  1880  ho  was  chosen 
Governor,  and  it  was  unquestionably  a  good  choice,  for  he 
is  heart  and  hand  in  favor  of  any  and  all  proper  efforts  to 
aid  the  cause  of  education,  of  immigration,  and  develop- 
ment of  the  State  by  railroads  and  similar  improvements. 
lie  is,  in  particular,  a  warm  friend  of  the  public-school  sys- 
tem, and  greatly  admires  the  Northern  and  Westcn-n  States 
for  their  earnest  efforts  in  this  cause.  He  also  believes  in 
extending  liberal  aid  to  immigration,  hoping  to  see  Flor- 
ida the  home  of  at  least  one  million  people,  and  covered 
with  a  network  of  railroads  and  canals.  A  stanch  Demo- 
crat, he  is  not  a  "  Bourbon,"  but  is  one  who  did  not  believe 
in  the  initial  secession  movement,  and  is  heartily  satisfied 
with  the  result.  So  far  as  he  can  control  or  iniluence  the 
peculiarly  retrogressive  elements  that  as  yet  exert  much 
influence  in  the  political  councils  of  this  State,  all  may 
be  sure  that  the  rights  and  interests  of  new-comers  will 
be  protected. 

An  exceedingly  pleasant  circle  of  gentlemen  to  be  met 
in  Tallahassee  are  Chief-Justice  E.  M.  Randall  and  his 
Associate  Justices,  R.  B.  Van  Yalkenburg  and  T.  D. 
Wescott,  of  the  Supreme  Court  ;  also  Mr.  Charles  II. 
Foster,  their  Clerk.  Judge  Randall  is  from  Milwaukee, 
has  lived  here  many  years,  and  has  an  elegant  home  in 
Jacksonville.  Judge  Van  Valkenburg  is  from  western 
New  York,  was  a  distinguished  General  in  the  Union 
army,  and  Minister  to  Japan.  lie  is  also  a  long-time 
resident  here,  is  warmly  attached  to  the  State,  and  OAvns 
a  very  fine  estate  on  the  St.  John's  River  just  opposite 
Jacksonville.  Judge  "Wescott  is  a  resident  of  Tallahassee, 
where  he  dispenses  an  elegant  hospitality.  These  gentle- 
men are  profoundly  respected  by  all,  irrespective  of  polit- 
ical creeds,  and  are  of  great  benefit  to  the  State  as  an 
encouragement  to  immigration.  They  are  an  unimpeach- 
able guarantee  that  life   and    property   are  and    shall  be 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  83 

safe  in  this  State,  and  that  lawless  desperadoism  of  the 
serai-political  character — the  "Mississippi  plan" — will  not 
be  permitted  or  tolerated.  The  fact  that  these  Xorthern- 
born  gentlemen  are  members  of  the  Supreme  Court  of 
the  State  is  a  greater  aid  to  the  cause  of  immigration 
than  may  be  supposed,  even  by  the  most  observing  and 
best-disposed  native  resident. 

Near  the  city  stands  the  famous  Murat  estate,  once 
the  property  of  Prince  Achille  Murat,  brother-in-law  of 
the  first  Napoleon,  members  of  whose  family  are  buried 
in  the  beautiful  city  cemetery.  The  estate  is  finely  lo- 
cated, and  the  building-site  is  unsurpassed,  but  the  house 
now  standing  upon  it  is  quite  plain  and  unpretentious. 
Another  local  "  lion "'  is  the  noted  Wakulla  Spring,  which 
I  reached  by  a  pleasant  drive  of  sixteen  miles.  The 
spring  lies  in  a  rather  flat,  uninteresting,  pine-wooded 
region,  near  several  cultivated  cotton-plantations.  It  is 
nearly  circular  in  shape,  about  four  hundred  feet  in  di- 
ameter, and  the  shores  are  densely  wooded  to  the  water's 
edge.  A  rude  landing  has  been  constructed,  and  an  old 
darkey  is  always  present  with  his  boat  to  row  the  visitor 
about  the  glassily  smooth  surface  of  the  pond.  The  sides 
are  very  nearly  perpendicular,  and  are  composed  of  smooth 
and  solid  rock.  Sixty-six  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
water  is  the  first  or  upper  level,  a  broad,  shelving  surface 
of  cle'an  rock  ;  and  through  this  is  a  large,  irregularly  cir- 
cular opening  apparently  about  one  hundred  feet  in  diame- 
ter, through  which  can  be  seen  the  lower  level  or  bottom 
of  this  wonderful  spring,  a  total  depth  of  one  hundred 
and  nine  feet.  The  rock  that  forms  the  upper  level  is 
evidently  not  very  thick,  for  in  one  place  there  is  a  per- 
fectly round  opening  about  three  feet  in  diameter,  through 
which  can  be  plainly  seen  the  second  bottom,  fifty-five  feet 
farther  below.  It  is  a  great,  thin  fringe  of  rock,  like  a 
crust,  with  a  vast  opening  a  little  to  one  side  of  its  center. 


84  FLORIDA. 

The  Avatcr  is  so  niarvelously  blue  that  indigo  would 
look  pale  in  comparison  -with  it,  and  so  clear  that  small 
gravel  and  bits  of  tin  one  inch  square  could  all  be  seen 
plainly  on  the  bottom.  Countless  fish,  some  quite  large 
and  some  very  small,  could  also  be  seen  lazily  floating 
about  in  the  distant  depths.  While  the  water  is  blue,  the 
rocks  are  of  the  most  intensely  brilliant  green,  over  which 
occasional  phosphorescent  flashes  of  shimmering  light  play 
fltfully,  producing  a  weird  and  phantasmal  eftect.  There 
is  neither  a  ripple  nor  a  motion  observable  in  the  water, 
yet  here  is  a  sti'cam  that  comes  pouring  up  from  the  bow- 
els of  the  earth  and  forms  a  river  (the  Wakulla  River) 
sixty  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep. 

This  is  the  spring  that  Ponce  de  Leon,  the  Spanish 
adventurer  and  discoverer,  romantically  supposed  to  be 
the  long-sought  "  Fountain  of  Youth."  He  and  his  super- 
stitious soldiers  seem  to  have  completely  misunderstood 
their  interpreters  or  the  Indians,  who  probably  meant  to 
convey  the  information  that  it  was  a  spring  of  clear, 
healthy  water,  that  had  a  beneficial  effect  upon  the  bather 
therein.  He  and  his  followers,  being  Avhere  St.  Mark's 
now  stands,  sought  out  the  Wakulla  River  and  followed 
it  up  to  this  spring,  into  which  they  eagerly  plunged. 
It  need  hardly  be  said  that  they  came  out  cleaner,  but  no 
younger  ;  and  the  lives  of  many  innocent  savages  were 
at  once  sacrificed  to  appease  their  disappointed  Snger. 
They  found,  or  could  see  on  the  distant  bottom,  the 
skeletons  of  two  gigantic  mastodons,  their  flesh  all  gone, 
but  their  bare  bones  perfect  and  white,  their  great  curl- 
ing tusks  interlocked,  evidently  fallen  in  and  drowned 
while  engaged  in  a  terrific  combat  on  the  brink.  There 
the  bones  lay  until,  in  1835,  Pi'ofessor  King,  of  Phila- 
delphia, engaged  several  men,  some  of  whom  are  now 
living  in  Tallahassee,  to  recover  them.  This  was  success- 
fully accomplished,    and    they  were    shipped    on    board    a 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  85 

schooner,  to  be  placed  in  the  museum  in  Philadelphia  ; 
but,  unfortunately,  the  vessel  was  lost  at  sea,  in  a  gale 
off  Cape  Hatteras,  and  these  interesting  skeletons  Avere 
finally  lost  for  ever. 

Returning  home  from  our  visit  to  this  romantic  spring, 
our  party  visited  another  smaller  but  very  interesting 
spring,  and  also  examined  a  number  of  the  many  mys- 
terious "  sinks  "  that  are  found  in  that  Wakulla  region. 
These  sinks  are  mostly  circular  in  form,  about  fifty  feet 
in  diameter  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep, 
with  smooth  sides,  like  great  wells,  only  they  are  dry, 
or  have  but  little  water  in  their  deep  bottoms,  while  large 
lakes  or  rivers  may  be  but  a  few  hundred  feet  distant, 
with  their  Avaters  nearly  level  Avith  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  The  wonder  is,  how  there  can  be  such  a  dif- 
ference between  the  Ica'cIs  of  the  Avaters  in  the  lake  and 
in  the  sink  ;  hoAV  the  Avater  of  the  lake  fails  to  get  into 
the  sink,  and  Avhere  the  waters  of  the  sink  come  from 
and  go  to.  These  sinks  are  found  in  all  portions  of  Flor- 
ida, and  are  a  remarkable  and  characteristic  feature  of  the 
peninsula. 

In  Wakulla  County  is  a  vast  jungle  of  trees,  vines, 
water,  and  marsh,  that  has  ncA'er  yet  been  fully  explored. 
Neither  the  United  States  nor  the  State  Government  has 
ever  attempted  to  survey  it  (in  fact,  there  has  never  been 
a  geological  survey  of  this  State).  Several  adventurous 
gentlemen  in  Tallahassee  haA'e,  on  A'arious  occasions,  at- 
tempted to  penetrate  its  depths,  but  found  it  impossible 
except  at  much  expense.  As  far  as  they  penetrated,  they 
found  a  strange  country  of  volcanic  appearance.  Every- 
where Avere  seen  great  masses  of  rocks,  often  an  acre  in 
extent,  all  cracked  and  ragged  as  if  upheaved  from  a 
great  depth.  Traces  of  gold,  lead,  copper,  silver,  and  iron 
are  said  to  have  been  discovered  ;  and  abundant  traces 
of  petroleum  are   found  there,  and  in  numerous  other  lo- 


8G  FLORIDA. 

calities  in  that  region.  It  is  in  this  impenetrable  jungle 
that  the  famous  "  Florida  volcano "  is  supposed  to  ex- 
ist, for  a  column  of  light,  hazy  smoke  or  vapor  may  be 
(and  has  been  for  years)  seen  rising  from  some  portion 
of  it,  and  provokes  the  conundrum,  "  What  is  it  ?  " 

Among  other  strange  freaks  of  nature  in  that  region 
is  Lost  Creek,  where  a  large  stream  suddenly  ends,  evi- 
dently plunging  downward  into  the  earth,  in  an  abyss 
that  is  bottomless.  Also  the  Natural  Bridge  across  St. 
j\Iark's  Kiver,  about  seventy  feet  in  width  and  the  same 
in  span,  over  which  people  pass.  A  volume  could  be 
written  about  the  natural  curiosities  of  Florida  that 
would  be  deeply  interesting  and  of  scientific  value.  A 
thorough  scientific  survey  of  this  State  should  be  ordered 
by  the  State  authorities  ;  but,  with  the  present  class  of 
able  tax-reducers,  it  is  a  futile  hope  to  expect  any  such 
measure  to  be  authorized. 

The  people  of  Tallahassee  have  a  beautiful  custom  of 
holding  a  fair,  early  each  spring,  that  probably  differs 
from  anything  in  the  way  of  the  fair  exhibitions  held 
elsewhere  in  the  South.  It  is  a  floral  fair,  held  at  their 
spacious  fair-grounds,  open  to  all,  but  of  course  nearly 
or  quite  all  the  exhibits  are  made  by  the  Tallahasseeans. 
The  exhibits  are  vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers,  especially 
flowers.  As  might  be  conjectured,  the  managers,  exhibit- 
ors, and  patrons  generally,  are  the  ladies,  who  take  great 
interest  and  pride  in  this  exhibition,  so  distinctively  local, 
so  pleasant,  and  so  indicative  of  refined  taste  and  cult- 
ure. I  attended  the  fair  of  1880,  held  in  ]March.  Floral 
Hall  was  a  beautiful  sight,  with  a  profuse  display  of 
flowers,  of  all  varieties,  kinds,  forms,  colors,  and  perfumes, 
all  artistically  arranged  and  exhibited  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. 

Nowhere,  it  may  be  said  in  conclusion,  is  there  a 
more    refined   and   cultured   society   than    in   Tallahassee. 


A    TRIP   THROUGH  ^''OETU  FLORIDA.  87 

Among  them  are  many  descendants  of  the  most  promi- 
nent and  aristocratic  old  families  of  America,  with  names 
that  recall  old  colonial,  Revolutionary,  and  1812  days  in 
the  battle-fields  and  in  State  councils  ;  and  their  large, 
well-attended  schools,  numerous,  handsome  churches,  beau- 
tiful homes  and  surroundings,  all  attest  to  the  high  stand- 
ard of  the  best  society  of  Tallahassee. 

From  Tallahassee  to  Jacksonville  the  traveler  passes 
over  the  Jacksonville,  Pensacola  and  Mobile  to  Live 
Oak,  and  thence  via  the  Savannah,  Florida  and  West- 
ern Railroad.  The  other  important  towns  in  this  section, 
besides  those  mentioned,  may  be  briefly  dealt  with. 

Monticello,  in  Jefferson  County,  thirty-three  miles  east 
of  Tallahassee,  is  the  terminus  of  a  branch  railroad  about 
five  miles  long,  and  is  a  flourishing  town  of  some  two 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  contains  two  hotels,  good  schools, 
a  weekly  newspaper,  and  churches  of  the  several  denomi- 
nations, Episcopalian,  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  and  Bap- 
tist. The  climate  is  almost  identical  with  that  of  Talla- 
hassee, and  the  adjacent  country  is  very  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  that  which  surrounds  the  capital.  Near  Monticello 
is  the  Lipona  plantation,  where  Murat  resided  for  some 
time  while  in  Florida  ;  and  in  the  vicinity  is  Lake  Mic- 
cosukee,  whose  banks  figure  in  history  as  the  camping- 
ground  of  De  Soto,  and  as  the  scene  of  a  bloody  battle 
between  General  Jackson  and  the  Miccosukee  Lidians. 

Madison  is  a  pretty  town  of  about  eight  hundred  in- 
habitants, situated  on  the  railway,  fifty-five  miles  east  of 
Tallahassee.  It  is  the  capital  of  Madison  County,  is  built 
on  a  plain  near  a  small  lake,  and  contains  Presbyterian, 
Baptist,  and  Methodist  churches.  The  Suwanee  Kivcr  is 
near  by,  and  in  the  county  are  Lakes  Rachel,  Francis, 
Mary,  and  Cherry. 

Live  Oak,  the  county-seat  of  Suwanee  County,  is  at 
the   junction  of   the   Jacksonville,   Pensacola   and   Mobile 


88  FLO  HI  DA. 

and  the  Savaiinali,  Florida  and  Western  Railways,  and  is 
the  lialf-way  point  between  Tallaliassee  and  Jacksonville. 
The  surrounding  country  is  pine-woods  with  sandy  soil, 
which  looks  poor,  but  which,  with  a  little  manure  and 
good  cultivation,  produces  excellent  crops.  There  are  a 
number  of  market-gardens  in  the  vicinity,  and  great  quan- 
tities of  vegetables  are  shipped  from  this  point  to  North- 
ern markets.  The  town  spreads  over  a  good  deal  of 
ground,  and  contains  about  eiglit  hundred  inhabitants. 
A  live  weekly  newspaper,  "  The  Bulletin,"  is  published 
here,  the  schools  are  good,  and  there  are  churches  of 
several  denominations,  with  some  respectable  store-build- 
ings and  a  number  of  pleasant  residences.  Five  miles 
south  of  the  town  (connected  with  it  by  a  "  tram-road," 
or  wooden  railway)  is  Padlock,  and  four  miles  north  is 
the  little  village  of  Rixford. 

Houston  lies  six  miles  east  of  Live  Oak,  on  the  rail- 
road, and  is  suiTounded  by  a  good  farming  country.  Near 
the  town  are  some  tine  springs,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  sev- 
eral beautiful  lakes  containing  an  abundance  of  excellent 
fish.  Wellborn,  twelve  miles  east  of  Live  Oak,  is  a  much 
larger  place,  and  among  its  population  are  a  number  of 
settlers  who  have  come  thither  from  Indiana,  Illinois,  and 
Iowa.  There  are  some  fine  hammock-lands  near  the  town, 
and  in  the  neighborhood  are  Lake  Wellborn  and  other 
lakes  teeming  Avith  fish.  Only  eight  miles  away  are  the 
famous  Suwanee  White  Sulphur  Springs,  attractively  situ- 
ated on  the  banks  of  the  Suwanee  River. 

Lake  City,  the  most  important  place  in  this  region, 
is  on  the  railroad  about  fifty  miles  west  of  Jacksonville. 
It  is  a  prosperous  and  substantially  built  town  of  some 
twentj^-five  hundred  inhabitants,  with  a  number  of  brick 
stores,  well-kept  hotels,  seven  or  eight  churches,  good 
schools,  tasteful  private  residences,  and  a  large  trade  in 
vegetables  and  other  products   of  the  surrounding  coun- 


A   TRIP    THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  89 

try,  including  lumber  and  turpentine.  Its  climate,  being 
drier  than  that  of  Jacksonville,  is  thought  to  be  more  fa- 
vorable to  those  consumptives  who  are  in  advanced  stages 
of  the  disease,  and  the  place  is  a  favorite  winter  retreat 
for  such  invalids.  Lakes  almost  surround  the  town,  hence 
its  name.  Three  miles  south  is  Alligator  Lake,  which  has 
no  visible  outlet.  In  the  wet  season  it  is  three  or  four 
miles  across,  but  in  winter  it  retires  into  a  deep  sink- 
hole, and  the  former  bottom  is  transformed  into  a  grassy 
meadow. 

The  following  description  of  Suwanee  County  is  from 
a  letter  written  by  Mr.  N.  C.  Rippey  to  the  Tallahassee 
"  Floridian."  We  quote  it  because  it  is  applicable  to 
all  this  portion  of  the  State,  and  contains  information 
of  value  to  immigrants  : 

"The  county  lies  in  a  big  bond  of  the  Suwanee  River, 
or  at  least  the  river  forms  the  boundary-line  on  three  sides. 
There  is  a  high  ridge  extending  across  the  county  east  and 
west,  or  nearly  so,  near  the  center  north  and  south,  some 
four  miles  or  so  in  width.  It  is  covered  with  the  finest 
growth  of  pine-timber  in  the  county.  In  it  is  an  abundance 
of  stone,  in  ledges  and  in  bowlders.  It  is  of  a  gray  color, 
very  soft ;  can  be  easily  cut  with  a  knife  or  saw,  and,  on 
being  exposed  to  the  air  for  some  time,  it  becomes  as  hard 
and  durable  as  granite,  and  makes  a  very  fine  material  for 
building  purposes. 

"  The  country  north  of  the  ridge  is  pine-woods  with  sandy 
soil.  Here  and  there  are  to  be  found  tracts  of  hammock- 
lands,  varying  in  size  from  a  few  acres  to  several  hundred. 
These  lands  contain  a  rich,  loamy  soil,  and  a  great  variety 
of  excellent  hard -wood  timber,  suitable  for  all  kinds  of 
building  and  manufacturing  purposes.  There  are  a  number 
of  beautiful  lakes  scatteretl  over  the  country,  containing  an 
abundance  of  excellent  fish.  There  are  numerous  springs, 
some  of  them  white  sulphur,  famed  for  their  medical  vir- 
tues. There  are  branches  or  creeks  gushing  out  of  the 
earth,  and  after  flowing  a  few  miles  entirely  disappear. 
The  countrv  south  of  'The  Ridge'  is  more  rolling  and  fei'- 


90  FLORIDA. 

tile,  and  is  underlaid  with  limestone  that  frequently  comes 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  surface.  There  are  no  lakes  or 
streams  of  running  water.  There  are  a  great  number  of 
natural  wells  that  appear  as  though  they  were  cut  by 
the  hand  of  man  thi'ough  solid  rock  ;  they  are  round,  or 
nearly  so,  varying  in  size  from  a  few  inches  to  forty  feet 
or  more  in  diameter,  and  from  a  few  feet  to  forty  or 
more  to  the  edge  of  the  water  ;  lish  are  frequently  found 
in  the  largest ;  the  water  is  clear  and  cool.  There  are 
a  number  of  caves  of  considerable  size,  but  they  have  nev- 
er been  explored  to  see  how  far  they  extend  under  the 
earth. 

"The  pine-lands  produce  about  fifteen  bushels  of  corn 
per  acre.  A  little  manure  and  good  cultivation  will  yield 
more  than  double  that ;  cotton,  about  a  bale  to  two  acres, 
sometimes  three  ;  upland  rice,  from  forty  to  sixty  bushels 
per  acre  ;  oats  and  rye  are  raised  in  considerable  quantities, 
but  I  was  unable  to  learn  the  yield  per  acre  ;  sugar-cane 
does  well,  and  is  a  very  profitable  crop  ;  a  great  variety  of 
fine  vegetables  are  raised  and  shipped  to  Northern  markets  ; 
there  are  a  number  of  small  vineyards  in  the  county,  and 
some  excellent  wine  is  made  from  the  grapes  ;  there  are 
quite  a  number  of  small  orange-groves,  and,  strange  to  say, 
they  are  nearly  all  planted  by  the  hands  of  women  ;  it  is  a 
fine  country  for  peaches  and  pears.  The  people  are  just 
beginning  to  find  out  what  a  great  variety  of  fruits  and 
vegetables  they  can  raise,  and  everybody  seems  determined 
to  have  an  orchard  of  all  kinds  of  fruit.  'Turpentining' 
has  become  quite  an  industry,  and  there  are  several  large 
turpentine  farms  in  the  county  that  are  reported  to  be  very 
profitable. 

"The  Suwanee  River  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats 
to  the  crossing  of  the  Jacksonville,  Pensacola  and  Mobile 
Railroad,  and  for  large  steamers  to  Rowland's  Bluff,  near 
the  southeast  corner  of  the  county.  The  river  frequently 
has  rocky  bluffs  and  bottoms,  and  many  fine  springs  are  to 
be  seen  along  the  banks,  and  some  rich  lands. 

"  The  population  of  the  county  in  1880  was  7,379,  of 
which  4,166  were  white  and  3,213  were  black.  Judging 
from  the  number  of  immigrants  that  have  gone  into  the 
county  this  past  fall  and  winter,  the  white  population  must 
now  be  about  five  thousand." 


A    TRIP  THROUGH  NORTH  FLORIDA.  91 

Dr.  D.  G.  Bi'inton  says  :  "  The  climate  of  tliis  part  of 
Florida  is  dry  and  equable.  Many  invalids  would  find  it 
a  very  pleasant  and  beneficial  change  from  the  seacoast  or 
the  river-side,  and  immigrants  would  do  well  to  visit  it. 
Game  and  fish  are  abundant,  and  the  sportsman  need  never 
be  at  a  loss  for  occupation." 


CHAPTER  V. 

JACKSOXVILLE,    FERXAXDIXA,    AXD    ST.    AUGUSTIXE. 

Jacksonville,  the  commercial  metropolis  and  social 
center  of  the  State,  is  likely  to  be  the  first  point  at  which 
the  visitor  to  Florida  will  make  anything  of  a  stay — the 
place  where  he  will  get  his  first  impressions  of  the  "Land 
of  Flowers."  It  is  a  handsome  and  prosperous-looking  city, 
covering  a  good  deal  of  ground,  and,  particularly  during, 
the  winter  season,  when  all  the  hotels  are  thrown  oj^en  to 
the  thronging  guests,  it  presents  an  animated  and  pictu- 
resque appearance  that  is  quite  exceptional  at  the  South. 
The  streets  are  remarkably  wide,  and  are  nearly  all  shaded 
by  long  rows  of  mammoth  live-oaks,  forming  arcades  of 
embowering  green  in  winter  as  well  as  in  summer.  Good 
sidewalks  of  brick  or  planks  contribute  greatly  to  the 
comfort  of  pedestrians,  but  the  streets  themselves  are  too 
sandy  for  raj)id  or  pleasant  driving,  and  are  "  heavy  "  for 
all  vehicles. 

Bay  Street  is  the  principal  business  thoroughfare,  and 
runs  parallel  to  and  one  block  distant  from  the  river.  For 
a  distance  of  about  a  mile  it  is  lined  on  both  sides  with 
stores,  offices,  and  other  mercantile  buildings,  including 
several  of  the  leading  hotels.  The  Astor  Building,  at  the 
corner  of  Bay  and  Ilogan  Streets,  is  the  finest  in  the  city, 
and  in  it,  besides  several  stores  and  a  number  of  offices, 
is  the  United  States  Signal-Service  station.  Ilorse-cars, 
connecting  the  railroad-depots,  run   along  Bay  Street,  up 


JACKSONVILLE. 


93 


Catherine  to  Duval  Street  to  the  St.  Jaiwes  Hotel,  down 
Hogan  Sti-eet  and  back  to  the  starting-point,  making  a 
very  convenient  circuit.     On  the  river  at  the  foot  of  Ocean 


Street-Scene  in  Jacksonville. 


Street  is  a  fine  public  market,  and  there  is  a  smaller  one  uj)- 
town  at  the  corner  of  Ilogan  and  Church  Streets.  ]Many 
of  the  shops  make  a  specialty  of  "Florida  curiosities"  (the 
majority  of  them* manufactured   in  New  York),  and  ron- 


9J:  FLORIDA. 

nected  with  tliat  of  Damon  Grcenleaf,  on  Bay  Street,  is  a 
"  Museumenagerie,"  which  Avill  prove  interesting  to  vis- 
itors, and  the  admission  to  Avhich  is  free. 

There  is  in  the  city  a  quite  remarkable  number  of  hand- 
some residences,  and  with  very  few  exceptions  they  are 
surrounded  by  ample  grounds  laid  out  in  tasteful  gardens 
and  lawns.  Sometimes  these  gardens  are  perfect  little 
parks,  and  the  fruits,  flowers,  and  shrubs  all  indicate  a 
semi-tropical  region.  The  society  of  Jacksonville  is  uni- 
versally admitted  to  be  unusually  select,  cultured,  and  re- 
fined ;  and  the  reasons  are  not  far  to  seek.  Many  of  the 
most  prominent  citizens  have  been  drawn  thither  from  all 
parts  of  the  country  on  account  of  its  climatic  advantages, 
and  are  in  general  the  picked  men  of  their  several  locali- 
ties. At  any  gathering  of  the  best  society  there  will  be 
found  gentlemen  Avho  have  occupied  high  positions  in  all 
portions  of  the  United  States,  and  in  nearly  all  professions 
and  occupations — in  the  army,  the  navy,  the  judicial,  the 
political,  literary,  artistic,  and  commercial  world.  As  ex- 
amples, I  may  mention  that  General  Spinner,  he  of  the 
famous  greenback  autograph,  owns  a  beautiful  home  here, 
whither  he  has  retired  to  enjoy  the  well-deserved  comforts 
of  an  honored  old  age  ;  and  that  Judge  Thomas  Settle,  of 
the  United  States  Circuit  Court,  the  original  of  Judge 
Denton  in  "  The  Fool's  Errand,"  has  another  fine  residence. 
During  the  winter  season  the  great  hotels  (the  St.  James, 
the  Windsor,  the  Carleton,  the  National,  etc.)  are  thronged 
with  wealthy  tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  the 
place  has  then  all  the  gayety  and  animation  of  a  leading 
summer  resort  at  the  North. 

Situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  John's,  at  the  point 
where  that  noble  river  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the  east,  the 
city  presents  a  very  attractive  appearance  from  the  water, 
and  from  its  higher  points  commands  a  pleasing  outlook 
upon  the  stream  and  its  low-lying  opposite  shore.     Its  situ- 


FERNANDINA.  95 

ation  is  a  very  favorable  one  for  commerce,  and  its  trade 
is  very  extensive,  particularly  in  lumber,  the  prepai'ation 
of  whicli  gives  employment  to  a  number  of  large  saw- 
mills. Nearly  all  the  railroad  and  steamer  lines  of  the 
State  center  at  Jacksonville,  and  immense  quantities  of 
fruit  and  early  vegetables,  as  well  as  of  cotton  and  sugar, 
are  shipped  thence  to  Northern  and  foreign  ports. 

With  what  are  known  as  the  "  modern  conveniences  " 
the  city  is  well  supplied.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  has  an 
excellent  system  of  water-works  drawing  the  water  from 
artesian  wells,  and  has  recently  been  provided  Avith  an 
effective  system  of  sewers.  The  public  schools  are  well 
organized  and  in  successful  operation  ;  there  are  a  circu- 
lating library  and  a  free  reading-room  ;  Episcopalian,  Pres- 
byterian, Methodist,  Baptist,  and  Catholic  churches  ;  banks, 
public  halls,  newspapers,  and  telegraphic  connection  with 
all  parts  of  the  United  States.  According  to  the  census 
of  1880,  the  resident  population  was  14,500,  and  the  rate 
of  growth  has  been  and  is  very  rapid.  When  Florida  shall 
have  achieved  what  now  appears  to  be  her  "  manifest  des- 
tiny," Jacksonville  will  be  one  of  the  great  commercial 
and  industrial  centers  of  the  country. 

Fernaxdixa. — This  picturesque  old  city,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  Florida,  lies  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  about 
fifty  miles  northeast  of  Jacksonville,  close  to  the  Georgia 
line,  being  the  northernmost  point  in  the  State.  It  is  built 
on  the  west  shore  of  Amelia  Island,  overlooking  a  broad 
bay  which  affords  the  finest  harbor  on  the  coast  south  of 
the  Chesapeake  Bay,  and  which  gives  it  important  commer- 
cial advantages.  Vessels  drawing  twenty  feet  of  water  can 
cross  the  bar  at  high  tide,  and  the  largest  ships  can  un- 
load at  the  wharves.  The  Mallory  Line  of  Direct  Florida 
Steamers  has  its  southern  terminus  at  Fernandina,  and  the 
steamers  of  the  Charleston  and  Savannah  lines  call  here  on 


OG  FLORIDA. 

their  Asay  to  and  from  Jacksonville.  One  of  the  most  im- 
portant railroads  of  Florida — the  Atlantic,  Gulf  and  West 
India  Transit  Railroad  —  begins  at  Fernandina  and  runs 
southwest  across  the  State  to  Cedar  Keys  ;  and  the  Fer- 
nandina and  Jacksonville  Railroad,  recently  completed,  af- 
fords a  short  air-line  route  between  these  two  cities.  With 
such  advantages,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  commerce  of 
Fernandina  is  large  and  increasing.  Immense  quantities 
of  fruits  and  vegetables  are  brought  thither  by  the  rail- 
ways for  shipment  north  ;  and  there  is  an  important  export 
trade  in  lumber,  cotton,  and  sugar. 

Fernandina  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  1632,  and 
has  an  interesting  history,  over  which,  however,  I  have  not 
time  to  linger.  It  is  now  a  busy  and  prosperous  place  of 
about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  whose  numbers  are  largely 
augmented  by  visitors  during  the  winter  season.  It  is  built 
on  a  broad  plain  that  rises  gently  from  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  showing  to  line  advantage  from  the  harbor.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  are  wide  and  generally 
well  kept,  and  are  everywhere  densely  shaded  with  great 
oaks,  magnolias,  and  similar  evergreen  trees.  The  business 
portion  of  the  city  contains  some  substantial  structures  ; 
but  the  largest  and  finest  buildings  are  the  hotels.  The 
Egmont  Hotel  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  South,  and  the 
Mansion  and  Riddell  Houses  are  spacious  and  well  kept,  all 
being  crowded  during  the  season.  The  suburbs  are  very 
beautiful,  the  houses  being  for  the  most  part  tastefully  con- 
structed, and  nearly  always  surrounded  by  ample  grounds 
laid  out  in  lawns  and  gardens,  and  covered  with  a  tropical 
luxuriance  of  flowers  and  shrubbery.  Quite  a  number  of 
orange-groves  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  opposite  the 
Egmont  House  is  an  interesting  grove  of  palmettoes. 

Crossing  the  island  in  a  direction  due  east  from  the 
city,  an  attractive  drive  two  miles  long  leads  to  the  famous 
Amelia  Island  Beach,  one  of  the  finest  in  America,  and  af- 


FERyAXDiyA. 


97 


98  FLORIDA. 

fording  an  unsurpassed  boacli-drive  of  twenty  miles.  The 
beach  is  as  smooth,  as  liard,  and  as  level  as  a  floor  ;  and 
during  the  season  it  presents  an  enlivening  sight,  with 
its  long  lines  of  carriages  and  other  equipages.  Another 
charming  ride  may  be  enjoyed  to  Fort  Clinch,  a  romantic 
old  fortification  situated  on  the  extreme  northern  point  of 
the  island. 

But  of  all  the  attractions  of  Fernandina  and  its  vicin- 
ity the  chiefest  is  "  Dungeness,"  once  the  home  of  Gen- 
eral Nathanael  Greene,  of  Revolutionary  fame,  and  now 
the  property  of  General  W.  G.  M.  Davis.  This  noble 
estate  was  granted  to  General  Greene  by  the  State  of 
Georgia,  in  recognition  of  his  splendid  services  to  the 
South,  and  is  situated  on  Cumberland  Island,  about  an 
hour's  sail  from  Fernandina  in  a  small  steamer.  Cum- 
berland Island  lies  along  the  coast  of  Georgia,  close  to 
the  Florida  line,  and  is  some  eighteen  miles  long  by 
about  a  mile  in  average  width.  On  one  side  lies  the 
broad  Atlantic,  and  on  the  other  is  the  sound,  across 
which,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile,  is  the  mainland. 
Dungeness,  so  named  by  General  Greene's  wife,  is  situ- 
ated at  the  southern  end  of  the  island,  and  includes 
about  one  third  of  its  total  area.  The  magnificent  man- 
sion was  burned  in  the  early  part  of  the  civil  war,  but  the 
ruins  still  stand  firm  as  a  rock,  the  massive  old  coquina- 
stone  walls  having  actually  been  hardened  by  the  fire. 
In  the  quaint  old  burying-ground,  some  distance  from  the 
house,  lie  a  number  of  the  relatives  of  General  Greene  and 
his  wife  ;  and  here  is  the  tomb  of  "  Light-Horse  Plarry " 
Lee,  father  of  General  Robert  E.  Lee. 

On  a  charming  morning  in  January,  1880,  I  visited 
Dungeness,  and  spent  a  couple  of  hours  in  wandering 
about  the  beautiful  grounds,  with  their  curious  old  gar- 
dens and  fruit-groves.  It  was  my  second  visit  to  the 
place,   and   I  felt   that  I  could    exist    there    as  a  modern 


ST.  AUGUSTINE.  99 

Robinson  Crusoe,  if  need  be,  and  never  tire  of  its  love- 
liness. Such  teeming  gardens  ;  such  brilliant  flowers ; 
such  wide  fields  ;  such  noble  groves  of  grand  old  live- 
oaks  and  magnolias  ;  such  a  tropical  luxuriance  of  tan- 
gled vines  ;  such  broad,  winding  avenues,  leading  from 
the  water  to  the  houses-park  ;  such  delightfully  perplex- 
ing walks  ;  such  a  glorious  sea-beach,  the  twin  of  that 
on  Amelia  Island  ;  such  oysters,  lining  the  sound-shore 
in  millions  ;  such  game  and  fish  ;  and  such  a  clear,  pure 
air — no,  never  could  I  tire  of  Dungeness  ! — dreamy,  ro- 
mantic, delicious,  entrancing  old  Dungeness  ! 

St.  Augustine, — The  visitor  to  St.  Augustine  may  en- 
joy the  consciousness  that  the  spot  on  which  he  then  stands 
has  behind  it  a  longer  stretch  of  authentic  history  than  any 
other  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States.  It  is,  indeed, 
the  oldest  European  settlement  in  our  coimtry,  having  been 
founded  by  the  Spaniards  under  Menendez  in  1565,  forty- 
two  years  prior  to  the  settlement  of  Jamestown  in  Virginia, 
and  fifty-five  years  before  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymouth  Rock.  Its  history  has  been  checkered  and  ro- 
mantic in  the  highest  degree  ;  it  was  from  the  very  first  a 
place  of  considerable  note,  and  the  theatre  of  interesting 
events  ;  and  it  still  possesses  a  curious  aspect  and  flavor  of 
antiquity.  Coming  to  it  from  bustling,  active,  Northern- 
like Jacksonville  or  Fernandina,  one  is  conscious  of  a  com- 
plete and  sudden  change  of  time  and  place — as  if  the  brief 
ride  on  steamer  and  railway  had  produced  magic  results, 
and  landed  him  in  some  quaint,  old,  dead-alive  Spanish  town 
of  the  middle  ages.  The  large  influx  of  wealthy  settlers 
from  the  North  has  greatly  altered  the  character  of  the 
place  within  the  past  few  years  ;  but  the  smart  modern  vil- 
las still  have  the  air  of  foreign  intruders,  and  the  quaint, 
romantic  old  city  retains  at  once  its  individuality  and  its 
imlikeness  to  any  tiling  else  in  America, 


100 


FLORIDA. 


■Stkeft  in  St   Aug'jsti;ne. 


ST.   AUGUSTINE.  101 

The  site  of  St.  Augustine  is  a  flat,  sandy,  narrow  pen- 
insula, formed  by  the  Matanzas  River  on  the  east  and  the 
St.  Sebastian  on  the  south  and  west.  It  is  separated  from 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  by  Anastasia  Island,  which  lies  directly 
in  front  of  the  harbor,  and  for  miles  around  it  is  encom- 
passed by  a  tangled  undergrowth  of  palmetto  -  scrub  and 
other  bushes.  From  Jacksonville  it  is  about  thirty  miles 
distant  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  and  it  is  about  forty 
miles  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  River. 

The  very  streets  of  St.  Augustine  are  romantic  and 
characteristic,  being  crooked  and  narrow  —  seldom  more 
than  ten  to  twenty  feet  in  width  —  and  all  paved  with 
shells.  The  older  houses  are  built  mostly  of  coquina  (or 
shell-stone,  quarried  on  Anastasia  Island),  and  the  prevail- 
ing style  of  architecture  is  very  quaint  and  ancient,  the 
verandas  frequently  hanging  out  over  the  streets  and  al- 
most touching  each  other  across  the  narrow  way.  The 
principal  streets  running  parallel  to  the  river  are  Bay, 
Charlotte,  St.  George's,  Spanish,  and  Tolomato.  Those 
running  at  right  angles  (east  and  west)  are  Orange,  Cuna, 
llypolita.  Treasury,  King,  Bridge,  and  St.  Francis.  Bay 
Street  is  the  main  business  street,  and  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  harbor,  Anastasia  Island,  and  the  ocean.  St. 
George's  is  the  Fifth  Avenue  of  the  place,  and  contains 
some  of  the  finest  buildings  and  residences.  At  the  head 
of  this  street  stands  the  famous  City  Gate,  once  a  part  of 
the  old  Spanish  wall  that  extended  across  the  peninsula 
from  shore  to  shore,  and  protected  the  city  on  the  north. 
The  last  traces  of  the  wall  have«  long  since  vanished,  but 
the  City  Gate  is  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  and,  with 
its  lofty  ornamented  towers  and  sentry-boxes,  it  is  a  pictu- 
resque and  imposing  structure. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city  is  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitu- 
cion,  comprising  about  an  acre  of  ground  inclosed  with  a 
substantial   fence.     In  the   center   of   tlie   Plaza   stands   a 


102 


FLORIDA. 


monument  erected  in  1812  to  commemorate  the  adoption 
of  tl)e  Spanish  Liberal  Constitution  ;  and  on  the  eastern 
side  is  a  Soldiers'  Monument  erected  in  1)^72  by  the  Ladies' 
Memorial  Association  "  in  memory  of  our  loved  ones  who 


St.  Augustine  Catu,;deal. 


ST.   AUGUSTINE. 


103 


Tin:  Convent-Gat?;. 


gave  their  lives  in  defense  of  the  Confederate  States." 
Fronting  on  the  Plaza  are  several  noteworthy  buildings, 
among  them  the  dilapidated  old  cathedral  with  its  quaint 
Moorish  belfry,  forming  one  of  the  "sights"  of  St.  Angus- 


104  FLORIDA. 

tine.  The  cathedral  was  built  in  1793,  and  one  of  the  bells 
bears  the  date  of  1GS2.  Also  fronting  on  the  Plaza  is 
the  Governor's  Palace,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Span- 
ish governors,  but  now  used  for  the  post-office  and  court- 
rooms. Next  to  this  building  on  the  north  is  the  old  Con- 
vent of  St.  Mary's,  and  the  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  St. 
Joseph  is  a  tasteful  coquina  building  on  St.  George's  Street, 
south  of  the  Plaza. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  features  of  old  St.  Augus- 
tine are  the  Sea  Wall  and  Fort  Marion  (formerly  Fort  San 
Marco).  The  Sea  Wall  is  built  of  coquina,  with  a  granite 
coping  four  feet  wide,  and  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  pro- 
tecting the  entire  ocean-front  of  the  city.  It  furnishes  a 
delightful  promenade,  and  is  usually  thronged  on  moon- 
liofht  eveninscs.  Near  its  south  end  are  the  United  States 
Barracks,  occupying  a  building  which  was  formerly  a  Fran- 
ciscan monastery.  At  its  north  end,  commanding  the  sea- 
front,  is  old  Fort  Marion,,  probably  the  most  picturesque 
structure  in  America.  Like  the  Sea  Wall  and  most  of  the 
older  edifices  in  St.  Augustine,  it  is  built  of  the  coquina 
quarried  on  Anastasia  Island,  and  the  construction  of  it 
occupied  one  hundred  and  sixty-four  years,  having  been 
commenced  in  1592  and  completed  in  1750.  The  labor  of 
building  it  was  performed  almost  entirely  by  negro  slaves, 
Indians,  and  prisoners  of  war  ;  and  every  stone  of  it  was 
cemented  with  the  sweat  of  toiling  sufferers.  While  in  the 
possession  of  the  British,  this  was  said  to  be  the  prettiest 
fort  in  the  king's  dominions  ;  and  with  its  esplanade,  moats, 
barbicans,  drawbridges,  massive  arched  entrance,  dark  pas- 
sages, vaulted  casemates,  ornate  sentry-boxes,  frowning 
bastions,  and  mysterious  dungeons — in  which  were  found 
in  1835  two  skeletons  in  cages,  victims  probably  of  some 
inquisitorial  cruelty — it  is  still  a  strangely  attractive  and 
interesting  spot.  For  modern  warfare,  of  course,  it  is  quite 
useless,  and  not  being  kept  up  for  military  purposes,  it  is 


ST.  AUGUSTINE. 


105 


quietly  crumbling  into  decay.  At  present  it  is  simply  a  fa- 
vorite place  of  resort  for  sight-seers  and  curiosity-hunters. 
It  is  especially  popular  with  romantic,  newly-married  tour- 


ists, and  with  marriageable  maidens  and  their  escorts  ;  and 
it  is  reputed  to  have  no  rival   in  the  number  of   lovers' 


106  FLOIilDA. 

vows  and  marriage  -  promises  that  have  been  exchanged 
within  its  recesses. 

Of  the  modern  buildings  at  St.  Augustine,  the  largest 
and  finest  are  the  hotels — the  St.  Augustine,  fronting  on 
the  Plaza  and  Charlotte  Street,  and  the  Magnolia,  in  St. 
George  Street,  near  the  Plaza,  being  the  princijial  ones. 
There  are  also  quite  a  number  of  fine  modern  villa  resi- 
dences erected  by  Northern  settlers,  and  in  the  environs 
are  many  beautiful  orange-groves  and  gardens.  The  har- 
bor affords  unsurpassed  opportunities  for  boating  and  fish- 
ing ;  and  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  light- 
houses and  coquina-quarries  on  Anastasia  Island,  and  to  the 
North  and  South  Beaches.  Salt-water  bathing  may  be 
enjoyed  in  suitable  bath-houses,  but  shai'ks  render  open  sea- 
bathing dangerous.  The  officers  of  the  garrison  and  a 
number  of  wealthy  gentlemen  who  visit  St.  Augustine  reg- 
ularly each  season,  have  built  and  maintain  a  cozy  little 
yacht  club-house,  which  is  one  of  the  leading  attractions 
of  the  i>lace.  It  is  built  out  over  the  water  of  the  harbor, 
just  opposite  the  St.  Augustine  Hotel,  and  its  hall,  richly 
furnished  in  the  Eastlake  style  and  decorated  with  pictures, 
is  equipped  with  leading  papers  and  periodicals  from  all 
parts  of  the  world.  To  the  army  officers,  some  dozen  or 
more  in  number,  is  due  much  of  the  social  animation  of  St. 
Augustine. 

In  the  matter  of  healthfulness  St.  Augustine  takes  a 
high  place  among  Florida  resorts.  Malaria  is  almost  un- 
known, and  the  constant  sea-breezes  moderate  the  cold  of 
winter  and  mitigate  the  heat  of  summer.  Frosts  seldom 
occur,  and  the  mean  winter  temperature  is  58'08^.  Never- 
theless, cold  northeasters  are  liable  to  make  themselves  felt 
in  January  and  February,  and  this  renders  the  place  less 
desirable  for  consumptives  than  some  of  the  inland  resorts. 
The  summer  climate  is  delifjhtful. 


CHAPTER  VL 

THE  ST.  John's  river. 

This  famous  river,  from  its  mouth  to  its  head-waters  in 
the  far-off  regions  of  Southern  Florida,  is  pui'ely  tropical  ; 
its  waters,  shores,  scenery,  vegetation,  all  animate  objects, 
the  birds  in  the  air  and  on  the  water,  the  fish  and  reptiles 
within  its  depths,  are  mostly  strange,  attractive,  and  in- 
tensely interesting,  especially  to  the  Northern  travelei*.  It 
is  the  only  really  tropical  stream  in  the  United  States  navi- 
gable its  entire  length,  and  is  different  from  all  others  in 
that  it  reverses  the  usual  order  of  the  water-courses  of 
America  and  flows  due  north.  A  sluggish,  slow  current,  its 
entire  length  lies  parallel  with,  and  is  only  separated  by  a 
narrow  belt  of  land  fi'om,  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  into  which  it 
empties  at  a  point  eighteen  miles  east  of  Jacksonville,  close 
to  the  Georgia  State  line. 

From  its  source  to  its  mouth  it  embraces  three  varieties 
of  streams,  each  entirely  distinct  in  form,  width,  depth, 
scenery,  shores,  soils,  and  vegetation  ;  and  these  strange 
transformations  not  only  add  greatly  to  the  interest  of  the 
river,  but  relieve  it  of  the  monotony  characteristic  of  long 
rivers.  The  first  stretch  of  the  river,  from  its  mouth  to  a 
point  shortly  above  Welaka,  a  total  distance  of  niuety-seven 
miles,  is  a  vast  lagoon,  avei'aging  from  one  to  six  miles  in 
width,  deep,  with  a  slow  current,  the  shores  a  series  of  bold 
bluffs  and  declivities,  everywhere  covered  with  extensive 
forests  of  great  live-oaks,  sweet-gums,  cypresses,  willows, 
and  occasional  magnolias.    These  forests  tower  up  grandly, 


108  FLORIDA. 

their  wide-spreading  branches  loaded  with  waving  festoons 
of  soft  gray  Spanish  moss  and  intcrhiced  witli  gigantic 
vines,  while  the  soil  beneath  is  mostly  free  of  heavy  under- 
brush, presenting  a  romantic,  park-like  appearance  as  viewed 
from  the  deck  of  the  passing  steamer. 

The  settlements  arc  frequent,  and  arc  usually  attractive- 
appearing  villages,  with  noticeably  large,  Avell-built,  bright- 
looking  homes,  neat  grounds  and  fences,  cozy -looking  little 
stores,  fine  long  piers — everj'thing  wearing  an  air  of  long- 
established  prosperity.  Large  estates,  having  commodious 
residences,  with  wide,  roomy  verandas,  standing  in  the  midst 
of  neatly  cleared  house-grounds,  and  surrounded  by  broad 
fields  and  thrifty,  green-leaved  orange-groves,  the  home 
pier  projecting  into  the  river  (for  every  one  residing  on  the 
St.  John's  River  niust  have  a  pier  and  a  fleet  of  boats  to 
complete  his  happiness),  are  everywhere  in  sight,  lining  the 
shores  on  either  hand  and  charming  the  traveler  with  their 
manifest  evidences  of  comfort  and  content.  This  region  is 
regarded  as  healthy,  and  is  not  infested  by  insects  to  any 
unusually  annoying  degree.  No  portion  of  the  State  is  more 
desirable  for  the  health-seeker,  or  for  the  traveler  in  search 
of  repose,  desiring  only  a  quiet,  cozy  retreat  for  a  summer- 
like home  in  mid-winter  months,  where  all  the  choicest  vege- 
tables, daintiest  fruits,  and  most  brilliant-hued  flowers,  ex- 
cellent fishing,  and  the  pleasures  of  small-game  hunting,  may 
be  enjoyed  all  the  year  round.  For  the  settler,  too,  its 
only  drawback  is  the  liability  to  frosts  in  occasional  years, 
damaging  to  the  prospects  of  fruit-culture  on  a  large  scale 
for  positive  revenue  ;  but  this  is  not  an  altogether  bad  feat- 
ure, since  it  enhances  the  healthfulness  of  the  region.  No- 
where do  figs,  grapes,  strawberries,  pears,  peaches,  and  all 
kinds  of  vegetables,  grow"  to  better  advantage  or  produce 
more  abundantly.  Oranges  also  do  well  on  the  east  side, 
where  ample  water  protection  is  secured  ;  but  lemons, 
limes,  pineapples,  and  bananas  are  uncertain,  though  they 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  EIVER. 


109 


are  unusually  excel- 
lent and  nutritious  if 
ripened  without  in- 
jury by  frost. 

Nearly  all  tour- 
ists in  Florida  "do 
the  St.  John's "  up 
to  Sanford,  but  com- 
paratively few  take 
a  trij^  on  that  por- 
tion of  the  river  be- 
low Jacksonville;  yet 
those  Avho  do  not, 
miss  a  view  which 
equals  in  picturesque 
strangeness  any  river 
scenery  in  America. 
Here  the  river  is  a 
broad  estuary,  with 
no  perceptible  cur- 
rent, stretching  spa- 
ciously between  low- 
lying  shores,  which 
close  it  in  on  either 
hand  with  serried 
ranks  of  evergreen 
forest-trees.  No  town 
or  hamlet  breaks  in 
upon  the  primitive 
simplicity  and  wild- 
ness  of  the  scene, 
and  the  few  houses 
that  are  here  and 
there  seen  appear  to 
be    lapped    and    in- 


110  FLORIDA. 

wrapped  in  a  soft,  dreamy,  delicious  quiet.  Yet  there  is 
no  sense  of  loneliness.  On  the  broad  bosom  of  the  stream 
at  all  hours  may  be  seen  the  beautiful,  swan-like  steamers 
as  they  come  and  go  to  and  from  New  York,  Savannah, 
Charleston,  and  other  ports  ;  and  the  countless  sailing-ves- 
sels that  "  go  down  to  the  sea  "  lend  a  perpetual  animation 
and  interest  to  the  scene.  A  winter  home  here,  with  a  well- 
kept  garden,  fruit-grove,  and  flower-decked  lawn,  a  horse, 
dog,  gun,  flshing-rod,  and  yacht,  is  as  near  an  approach  to 
the  original  Eden  as  one  can  reasonably  expect  in  this  world. 

As  is  the  case  with  nearly  all  the  Southern  rivers,  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  John's  is  obstructed  by  a  Fand-bar,  which 
interferes  seriously  with  navigation,  and  which  is  now  being 
dealt  with  on  the  Eads  system  of  jetties.  Near  the  en- 
trance is  the  famous  Pelican  Bank,  the  resort  of  myriads  of 
sea-fowl  ;  and  a  little  north  is  Fort  George  Island,  which  is 
a  favorite  summer  resort  of  inland  Floridians,  and  which 
has  an  hotel,  several  handsome  residences,  an  observatory, 
a  lighthouse,  a  quaint  old  Pilot  Town,  and  some  line  shell- 
roads.* 

The  round  trip  up  the  St.  John's  River  from  Jackson- 
ville and  return  involves  about  eight  hundred  miles  of  travel, 
and  every  mile  is  deeply  interesting,  with  its  rapidly  shift- 
ing scenes  of  tropical  vegetation  and  life.  Always  on  the 
steamers  will  the  passengers  be  seen  clustered  on  the  decks, 
forward  and  aft,  all  intently  observing  the  novel  and  ever- 
changing  panorama,  admiring  the  numerous  strange  birds, 
of  several  varieties,  as  they  gracefully  wheel  off  in  the  dis- 
tance, or  curiously  studying  the  hideous  attractions  of  the 
alligators  that  may  be  discovei'ed  basking  in  the  sunshine 

*  A  good  view  of  the  lower  St.  John's  is  obtained  from  the  steamers 
which  run  from  Charleston  and  Savannah  to  Jacksonville.  A  better  plan, 
however,  affording  an  opportunity  for  a  short  visit  to  Fort  George  Island,  is 
to  take  the  little  steamer  which  runs  down  the  river  from  Jacksonville 
every  afternoon,  returning  next  morning. 


THE  ST.   JOHN'S  RIVER.  HI 

along  the  banks.  Alligators  are  quite  wise  in  their  gen- 
eration, know  the  universal  propensity  of  mankind  to  kill 
something,  and  are  aware  of  their  own  very  tempting  quali- 
ties as  a  target  when  exposed  to  a  boat-load  of  travelers,  of 
whom  the  masculine  members  are  nearly  all  armed  with 
deadly  weapons  ;  so  they  do  not  offer  any  very  extended 
opportunity  to  study  their  physiognomies,  but  always  rush 
for  deep  water,  the  principal  impression  they  convey  being 
that  of  a  scurrying,  splashing  monster  with  a  great  tail 
curled  uj^ward,  plunging  head  -  foi'emost  into  the  water. 
Above  Lake  Monroe,  in  the  savanna  region,  alligators  are 
very  plentiful  and  not  shy,  but  below  Lake  George  they 
ai'e  very  rare,  and  none  are  seen  from  the  steamers. 

Ten  miles  above  Jacksonville,  on  the  west  shore,  is  Or- 
ange Park,  a  neat  village  of  broad  gardens,  wide  streets,  a 
handsome  winter  hotel,  numerous  pretty  cottages,  a  river- 
road  lined  with  large  oaks  (in  one  of  these  is  built  a  lattice 
summer-house  reached  by  easy  ascending  stairs),  a  long  pier, 
and  a  stylish  wharf-house.  Five  miles  farther,  on  the  east 
shore,  is  Mandarin,  a  cozy  and  prosperous  village  of  roomy, 
airy,  neat  homes  ;  the  orange-groves,  gardens,  lawns,  roads, 
fences,  and  pier  all  giving  unmistakable  evidences  of  com- 
fort and  good  taste.  Here,  showing  prominently  from  the 
river,  is  the  home  of  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe.  Six 
miles  above,  on  the  western  shore,  is  Hibernia,  a  pretty 
hamlet,  much  resembling  Mandarin.  Indeed,  the  same  de- 
scription answers  for  both,  and  also  for  Magnolia,  six  miles 
farther  up,  on  the  western  shore,  equally  pretty  and  thrifty. 

Green  Cove  Springs  is  three  miles  above  (thirty  miles 
from  Jacksonville),  on  a  broad,  deep  bay  on  the  western 
shore.  This  is  a  charming  village  of  several  stores,  two 
large,  Avell-furnished  and  fiiu?ly  appointed  winter  hotels, 
and  numerous  pretty  homes.  The  streets  are  shady  and 
neat,  making  it  an  attractive  resort.  The  springs,  from 
which  the  village  takes  its  name,  are  the  principal  attrac- 


112 


FLORIDA. 


tion,  located  in  the  center  of  the  place  and  arranged  for 
drinking  and  bathing.  I'he  water  is  slightly  sulphurous  and 
remarkably  clear,  sparkling,  and  copious. 

Picolata,  a  pretty  locality  on  the  eastern  shore,  nine  miles 
above,  is  a  small  hamlet  of  four  or  five  houses,  with  orange- 


Mrs.  Stowf.'s  Rr.siDf:N<'F.. 


groves  ;  and  on  the  same  shore,  four  miles  above,  is  Tocoi 
(forty-three  miles  from  Jacksonville),  Here  the  traveler 
takes  the  cars  for  St.  Augustine,  fourteen  miles  distant, 
,  across  a  monotonous,  flat,  pine-timbered  country.  Tocoi  is 
entirely  uninteresting,  merely  a  railway-depot,  with  freight- 
warehouse,  car-shed,  water-tank,  and  two  small  dwellings. 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  RIVER.  113 

There  is  a  moss  curing  and  packing  house  near  by,  where 
the  Spanish  moss  is  prepared  for  mattresses  for  Northern 
markets.  This  Avill  probably  become  an  important  business 
in  Floi'ida  in  the  future.  Federal  Point,  six  miles  above,  is 
a  small  hamlet  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  three  or  four  cot- 
tages, a  store,  and  numerous  young  orange-groves.  It  is 
noted  for  thg  great  quantity  of  strawberries  grown  there, 
upward  of  fifty  thousand  quarts  having  been  shipped  in  the 
winter  and  spring  of  1881.  Here  are  two  of  the  finest 
orange-groves  in  the  State,  curiously  noticeable  because, 
contrary  to  all  theories,  arguments,  or  practical  trials  at- 
tempted elsewhere,  they  are  located  on  low,  flat,  inferior- 
looking  pine-land,  the  surface  being  very  little  above  water. 
Orange  Mills,  five  miles  above,  on  the  eastern  shore,  is  in  ?11 
respects  similar  to  Federal  Point. 

Palatka,  the  county-seat  of  Putnam  County,  is  seven 
miles  above  (sixty-one  miles  from  Jacksonville).  This 
beautiful  young  city  is  located  at  the  head  of  a  large  bay 
on  the  western  shore  of  the  river,  on  a  high,  broad  plateau, 
affording  a  grand  view  up  and  down  the  river.  The  soil 
thereabout  is  rich,  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation,  and 
yields  abundant  crops.  Hundreds  of  market-gardeners  are 
settled  in  the  surrounding  country,  and  vast  quantities  of 
all  kinds  of  gaixlen-vegetablcs  and  small  fruits  are  annually 
shipped  Xorth.  In  the  vicinity  are  many  old,  productive, 
and  valuable  orange-groves  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river  (reached  by  ferry)  is  the  grove  of  Colonel  Hart, 
one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  State. 

Palatka  is  the  second  city  in  size  on  the  St.  John's  Riv- 
er, and  is  rapidly  growing.  It  contains  numerous  large, 
well-stocked  stores,  packing-houses,  warehouses,  hotels,  sev- 
eral handsome  churches,  public  schools,  and  public  build- 
ings. The  streets  are  wide,  neatly  kept,  and  are  generally 
shaded  with  large  oaks  and  orange-trees,  and  lined  with 
manv  tastefullv  constructed  residences,  and  neat  cottages 


114 


FLORIDA. 


with  ample  house-grounds.  Thrift,  jDrosperity,  good  taste, 
and  enterprise  are  everyv/here  manifest.  The  Florida 
Southern  Railway  Company  (narrow-gauge  line),  one  of  the 
most  extensive  corporations  in  the  State,  has  its  headquar- 
ters here,  the  car-shops,  storehouses,  depots,  wharf,  and  gen- 
eral cilices  being  all  established.     Also  the  general  offices 


E.NTK.\NJE   TO    HaKI'S    OrANGK-GROVE. 


of  the  Ocklawaha  River  and  the  Crescent  Lake  lines  of 
steamers  are  here,  and  the  Charleston  and  Savannah  lines 
of  ocean-steamers  make  this  place  their  up-river  terminus. 
It  will  be  seen  that  its  shipping  and  transportation  facilities 
are  quite  important.  The  population  is  about  eight  hun- 
dred, mostly  energetic,  Northern-born  people. 


TEE  ST.  JOHN'S  EIVER.  115 

San  Mateo,  on  tlio  eastern  shore,  four  miles  above  Palat- 
ka,  is  a  very  attractive  place,  situated  on  a  high  bluff,  with 
numerous  large  and  thrifty  old  orange-groves,  and  many 
vegetable-gardens.  It  has  a  telegraph-office,  express-office, 
and  one  of  the  largest  orange-packing  houses  in  the  State, 
a  church,  public  hall,  school,  stores,  etc.  The  society  is  ex- 
cellent, the  dwellings  are  neat  and  attractive,  and  no  place 
has  a  better  reputation  for  healthfulness. 

A  short  distance  above  is  Dunn's  Creek,  leading  into  the 
famous  Crescent  Lake,  about  two  miles  wide  and  six  miles 
long,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  lying  between  St.  John's 
and  Yolusia  Counties.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  region, 
with  pleassing  scenery  and  excellent  soil.  Crescent  City, 
Owasco,  and  Oakwood,  are  pretty  little  hamlets  on  its 
shores,  the  iirst-named  being  the  largest  and  most  flourish- 
ing, with  churches,  schools,  stores,  hotel,  etc.  There  are 
several  other  little  settlements — rapidly  increasing — on  the 
lake,  which  is  said  to  be  quite  healthy  and  to  have  notice- 
ably few  insects.  A  steamer  connects  this  region  with 
Palatka. 

Returning  to  the  St.  John's,  and  journeying  up-stream, 
next  comes  Buffalo  Bluff,  on  the  east  shore,  six  miles  above 
San  Mateo.  This  is  a  pretty  little  settlement,  with  numer- 
ous thrifty  young  orange-groves  and  gardens.  Three  miles 
above,  on  the  east  shore,  is  Nashua,  very  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  Buffalo  Bluff.  Saratoga,  a  little  community,  where 
the  steamers  occasionally  stop,  lies  between  the  last-men- 
tioned places,  on  the  same  shore.  It  has  good  soil,  and  will 
likely  become  a  thriving  town  in  time. 

Three  miles  more  brings  us  to.  Welaka,  one  of  the  most 
charming  localities  on  the  St.  John's  River,  and  one  of  the 
healthiest  and  ])rettiest  settlements  in  the  State.  The  loca- 
tion is  on  a  high  bluff,  crested  with  an  extensive  grove  of 
peculiarly  beautiful  and  majestic  live-oaks,  and  the  soil, 
generally  free  from  underbrush,  looks  clean  and  ])ark-like. 


116  FLORIDA. 

Here  are  a  niimber  of  the  best  orange-groves  in  the  State. 
The  residents  exliibit  much  good  taste  in  the  construction 
of  their  homes,  and  their  gardens,  lawns,  flowers,  and  fences 
are  noticeably  neat.  Nearly  opposite  Welaka  is  the  mouth 
of  the  famous  Ocklawaha  Kiver. 

Norwalk  is  three  miles  above,  on  the  western  shore,  the 
settlement  being  located  about  a  mile  back  from  the  river, 
in  a  region  of  good  soil  and  attractive  surroundings.  It 
has  schools,  churches,  stores,  etc.,  and  is  noted  for  the  ex- 
cellence of  its  society  and  the  great  amount  of  vegetables 
and  garden-fruits  produced,  annually  shipping  large  quan- 
tities.    It  contains  many  fine  orange-groves. 

Just  below  this  landing  the  character  of  the  St.  John's 
River  changes.  Here  the  lower  St.  John's  practically  ends, 
and  the  middle  St.  John's  begins  ;  the  broad,  clear-water, 
bay-like  form  abruptly  terminates,  and  the  steamer  passes 
into  a  narrow  channel,  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet  in  width, 
and  remarkably  crooked.  The  water  is  darker,  with  a  cof- 
fee-colored appearance  which  is  attributed  to  the  rank  veg- 
etation of  the  region.  This  is  the  tropical  jungle  region  of 
the  river,  and  continues,  with  occasional  exceptions  in  the 
shape  of  pine  or  high-soil  clearings,  on  up  to  Lake  Monroe, 
eighty  miles  above  Korwalk.  The  shores  are  mostly  flat, 
very  little  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  which  frequently 
spreads  out  over  the  low  boundaries  of  the  channel  proper, 
and  forms  vast,  shallow  lakelets,  where  game  resorts  in 
great  numbers.  Everywhere  the  shores  are  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  oaks,  cypress,  sweet-gum,  willow,  and  the 
like,  all  interlaced  with  gigantic  vines  in  greatest  abun- 
dance ;  great  clusters  of  gray  Spanish  moss  hang  from  the 
branches,  and  the  ground  is  covered  to  the  water's  edge 
with  an  impenetrable  jungle  of  tropical  grasses,  reeds, 
brambles,  and  bushes.  Brilliant-hued  flowers — some  varie- 
ties are  very  large — are  everywhere,  in  the  water,  on  the 
bushes,  the  vines,  and  the  trees,  and  add  a  novel  beauty  to 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  RIVER.  117 

the  scenery.  Occasionally  a  glimpse  may  be  had  of  that 
mysterious  and  infrequent  air-plant  known  as  \riornan''s- 
hair,  a  mossy  growth  very  closely  resembling  the  long, 
soft,  golden-hued  hair  of  a  young  woman,  and  the  clusters 
when  seen  have  an  appearance  of  being  thrown  carelessly 
into  a  tree  or  bush.  Mistletoe-boughs,  with  their  bright- 
red  berries,  are  also  everywhere  seen.  Here  is  the  haunt 
of  the  alligator,  where  the  traveler  has  a  first  sight  of  these 
famous  saurians.  They  are  not  plentiful,  and  must  be  seen 
quicJdy,  if  seen  at  all,  for  they  are  very  shy  and  have  a  dis- 
trust of  steamers.  The  managers  of  the  steamer-lines  have 
recently  issued  strict  orders  forbidding  any  shooting  from 
their  steamers,  a  wise  and  timely  regulation,  for,  by  their 
insane  shooting  at  everything,  the  tourists  were  driving  all 
birds,  alligators,  and  animals  from  this  portion  of  the  river. 
The  scene  is  also  enlivened  by  the  bright  plumage — snowy 
white  or  brilliant  red  predominating — of  the  many  birds 
and  water-fowls  as  they  gracefully  skim  through  tlie  air, 
especially  the  large,  long-legged,  long-necked,  long-billed 
white  herons,  which  are  very  plentiful,  and  present  a  fine 
sight  as  they  majestically  wheel  in  slow  curves  through  the 
air.  This  dense  jungle  scenery  frequently  impresses  the 
traveler  with  an  idea  that  the  adjacent  country  is  uninhabit- 
able, but  such  an  impression  is  erroneous,  for  this  is  merely 
a  valley  I'cgion  ;  there  is  excellent  country  lying  back  at 
distances  varying  from  a  few  hundred  feet  to  two  miles. 

Resuming  the  journey  up  the  river,  from  Norwalk  it  is 
two  miles  to  Mount  Royal,  on  the  eastern  shore,  a  pretty 
situation  with  several  neat  homes  and  thrifty  orange-groves. 
Tlien  a  lialf-mile  farther  is  Fruitland,  a  little  settlement  fa- 
mous for  good  soil  and  large  production  of  vegetables.  To 
Fort  Gates,  a  small  hamlet  on  the  west  shore,  it  is  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  Three  miles  above,  on  the  eastern  shore, 
is  Georgetown,  situated  at  the  north  end  of  Lake  George. 
This  is  a  small  trading-])la'>e,  but  is  one  of  th"  most  attrac- 


118  FLORIDA. 

live  localities  on  the  river,  owingf  to  the  excellent  taste  shown 
by  the  people  living  near  the  landing.  Their  dwellings, 
lawns,  fences,  and  gardens  are  extremely  neat  as  seen  from 
the  steamer.  Several  fine,  large  orange-groves  are  near  by, 
that  bear  heavy  crops. 

The  steamer  here  enters  Lake  George,  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  attractive  of  the  inland  lakes  of  Florida.  It  is  six 
miles  wide  and  thirteen  and  a  half  miles  long,  famous  for 
the  variety  and  excellence  of  its  fish,  and  as  being  the  re- 
sort of  myriads  of  wild  ducks  and  all  kinds  of  water-fowls. 
Many  parties  of  sportsmen  annually  visit  the  lake  for  the 
shooting  and  fishing,  and  always  are  delighted  with  their 
success.  Lake  George  Post-Office  is  the  first  landing  on 
the  lake,  two  miles  above  Georgetown,  a  trim  little  place  on 
good  soil.  One  and  a  half  mile  farther  is  Drayton  Island 
Landing,  the  port  of  this  famous  island,  remarkable  for  its 
fertility,  abundant  crops,  and  health.  Seville,  on  the  east 
shore  of  the  lake,  is  five  miles  distant,  an  attractive  place, 
with  a  number  of  fine  orange-groves  ;  and  six  miles  above 
is  Spring  Grove,  a  small  but  flourishing  settlement  on  the 
western  shore.  Four  miles  more  and  the  steamer  is  at  the 
famous  Volusia  Bar,  that  hides  itself  beneath  the  water  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  causing  endless  delay  and  annoy- 
ance to  the  steamers  of  the  river — often  so  low  for  weeks, 
falling  to  three  and  a  half  feet,  that  none  but  the  lightest- 
draught  boats  can  cross.  An  appropriation  has  recently 
been  made  by  the  national  Government,  and  a  force  is  at 
work  removing  the  obstruction,  on  the  Eads  jetty  system. 

Again  entering  the  river,  which  is  here  much  narrower 
and  shallower,  five  miles  from  the  bar  is  Volusia,  on  the 
eastern  shore,  an  unattractive  landing,  the  port  of  a  thrifty 
back  country.  On  the  opposite  shore,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above,  is  Astor,  merely  a  well-constructed,  large  warehouse 
and  wharf,  the  river  terminus  of  the  St.  John's  and  Lake 
Eustis  Railroad,  a  narrow-gauge  road  leading  to  Fort  Mason 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  EIVER.  119 

(twenty-six  miles  distant),  where  it  opens  up  the  famous 
Lake  Eustis  and  Lake  Dora  region,  the  equal — even  the  su- 
perior— of  any  region  in  Florida  for  superb  scenery,  excel- 
lent soil,  rapid  growth,  and  healthy  enterprise. 

From  Astor  it  is  three  miles  up  to  Bluffton,  a  common- 
place post-office  landing  ;  and  two  miles  above  is  the  en- 
trance to  Lake  Dexter,  on  the  east  shore,  a  fine  little  lake 
containing  a  number  of  pretty  islands,  and  affording  an  out- 
let for  Spring  Garden  and  a  good  back  country.  From  the 
entrance  it  is  twelve  miles  up  to  St.  Francis,  an  unattractive 
landing  on  an  elevated  site,  once  the  location  of  an  old-time 
Spanish  settlement.  Six  miles  above  is  Hawkinsville,  on 
the  west  shore,  a  mail-landing  with  two  or  three  houses  on 
a  level  clearing  of  evidently  fertile  soil,  judging  from  the 
thrifty  appearance  of  the  oranges  and  bananas  growing  there. 
It  is  remarkable  for  an  extensive  quarry  or  bed  of  coquina, 
or  shell-rock,  the  only  formation  of  the  kind  in  this  section 
of  the  State  or  along  the  entire  river. 

De  Land  Landing  is  one  mile  above,  a  solitary,  neatly 
consti'ucted  storehouse  on  the  east  shore,  the  port  of  De 
Land  village,  which  lies  four  and  a  half  miles  in  the  interior. 
It  is  three  miles  more  to  Lake  Beresford,  a  pretty  sheet  of 
water  lying  on  and  adjoining  the  river  on  the  east  side. 
Here  the  steamer  enters  and  crosses  the  small  lake  to  Ros- 
siter's,  and  Alexander's,  two  landings  near  each  other,  small 
settlements  of  three  or  four  cheap,  rude  little  buildings, 
the  ports  of  the  Spring  Garden  and  De  Land  villages  and 
an  excellent  adjacent  region  of  fertile  soil  and  numerous 
settlers. 

Again  passing  up  the  river,  from  the  entrance  of  tlie 
lake  it  is  five  miles  to  Blue  Springs  on  the  east  shore,  a 
rather  interesting  landing-place,  a  wharf,  roadway,  one  resi- 
dence on  a  little  hill  surrounded  by  a  number  of  exceedingly 
large  orange-trees  that  annually  bear  a  thousand  and  more 
oranges  each.  The  spring,  that  gives  the  name,  is  just 
G 


120  FLORIDA. 

below — a  large  pond  of  rcTiiarkably  blue,  sparkling  water  of 
slightly  su]})hurous  flavor,  and  full  of  large  fish  (here  for 
their  health,  probably  (V)  ).  It  is  the  port  for  Orange  City 
village,  on  the  high  lands  two  miles  in  the  interior. 

Eight  miles  above  is  We-ki-va,  a  mere  solitary  rude  log 
shanty  on  the  east  shore  just  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
We-ki-va  Creek,  a  disjnal  location.  Here  passengers  and 
freights  for  Altamont  and  Apopka  are  transferred  to  the 
little  craft  that  ascends  to  those  enter])rising  towns.  Six 
miles  above,  passing  through  a  broad,  level,  open  prairie 
belt — the  first  on  the  river — the  steamer  enters  Lake  ^Nlon- 
roe  at  its  western  end  (the  lake  lies  east  and  west),  and 
in  four-  miles  more  the  steamer  is  at  Sanford,  a  total  dis- 
tance of  one  hundred  miles,  by  mail-lino  steamer  route, 
above  Palatka,  and  one  hundred  and  sixty-one  miles  above 
Jacksonville. 

Lake  Monroe  is  four  and  a  half  miles  wide  and  ten  mile;^ 
long,  and  well  stocked  with  excellent  fish.  It  is  practically 
the  head  of  the  middle  St.  John's  River,  and  the  lower  ter- 
minus of  tlie  upper  St.  John's  ;  and  at  Sanford,  on  the 
south  shore,  freights  and  passengers  for  the  interior  of 
Orange  County  (Maitland,  Osceola,  Literlaken,  Orlando, 
some  portions  of  Altamont  and  Apopka)  are  transferred 
to  the  Sonth  Florida  Railroad  at  its  fine  wharf.  Also  goods 
and  passengers  for  far-ofif  tropical  Lake  AVorth,  Indian 
River,  and  the  cattle-prairies  of  the  south,  are  transferred 
to  the  curious  little  steamers  specially  constructed  for  the 
shallow,  crooked  channel  of  the  u])per  St.  John's. 

One  mile  east  of  Sanford  is  ]Mellonville,  merely  a  pier, 
an  old  hotel,  and  a  few  dwellings.  Kverything  here  was 
once  well  constructed,  and  this  was  at  one  time  the  oidy 
settlement  on  the  lake,  and  quite  an  important  place.  It 
was  established  in  1835  as  a  military  post  during  the  wars 
with  the  Seminole  Indians,  the  landing  for  the  town  and 
garrison  of  Fort  Reed,  two  miles  in  the  interior,  where  is 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  lUYER.  121 

now  quite  an  attractive  little  village  and  several  of  the  old- 
est, best,  and  most  productive  orange-groves  in  the  State. 

Directly  opposite,  en  the  north  shore  of  the  lake,  is  En- 
terj^rise,  the  county-seat  of  Volusia  County.  It  is  located 
on  a  plateau  that  rises  to  a  considerable  height  back  some 
distance  from  the  lake.  The  soil  is  excellent  and  very  fer- 
tile. The  town  contains  a  court-house  and  county  build- 
ings, a  spacious  winter  hotel,  three  or  four  stores,  and  a 
large  saw-mill.  It  is  a  neat,  pleasant-appearing  place  and  a 
famous  resort  for  tourists  in  the  winter  season.  In  the 
vicinity,  or  suburbs,  are  several  line  residences,  the  winter 
homes  of  Northern  families.  Much  taste  is  shown  in  these 
dwellings,  their  lawns,  gardens,  and  surroundings.  Here  is 
the  famous  estate  of  De  Bary  (the  wine-importer  of  New 
York  City),  quite  worth  a  visit  to  see  the  extensive  groves, 
packing-house,  piers,  and  such  improvements  established. 
A  spring  of  sulphur-water  gushes  from  the  earth  in  the 
center  of  a  large  field  on  the  lake-shore  on  the  De  Bary 
estate.  The  spring  is  about  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  very 
deep,  and  the  waters  remarkably  green  and  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur.  A  large  hotel,  to  eclipse  anything 
of  the  kind  in  the  South  as  a  Avinter  resort,  is  being  con- 
structed there,  for  which  the  locality  is  peculiarly  alapted. 
In  this  vicinity  are  a  number  of  the  largest  and  oldest 
bearing  orange-groves  in  the  State.* 

*  The  qnc>tioii  of  distances  on  the  St.  John's  River  from  Jacksonville 
to  Sanfoi'd  is  very  puzzling  to  the  tourist,  and  even  to  old  residents,  owing 
to  the  diffci'cnces  in  the  tables  of  distances  given  in  the  innumerable  little 
advertising  hand-books,  so-called  guide-books,  railway-charts,  etc.,  varying 
from  one  hundred  and  forty-four  to  two  hundred  and  thirteen  miles,  in- 
eluding  many  intermediate  ([uantities.  Some  ([uotc  "  per  United  States 
survey,"  w'licli  is  erroneous,  as  there  has  been  no  United  States  survey,  ex- 
cept a  mere  \iAt  known  officially  as  a  "  preliminary  reconnaissance."  The 
figures  as  given  in  this  article  were  obtained  from  Ca[)tain  Wiiliam  Shaw, 
an  officer  who  has  navigated  the  St.  John's  twelve  years  as  captain  of  sev- 
eral steamers,  and  who  at  present  commands  the  steamer  Fred  De  Bary,  the 


122  FLORIDA. 

From  Lake  jNIonroe  to  the  oxtrcnie  soutbern  head-waters 
of  the  St.  John's  Kiver,  in  Lake  Wasliington,  is  a  journey 
of  two  hundred  and  fourteen  miles,  following  the  river- 
channol,  which  is  remarkably  crooked,  narrow,  and  shallow. 
The  region  above  Lake  Monroe  (the  upper  St.  John's  re- 
gion), the  third  section  of  this  strange  stream,  is  a  total 
change  from  the  two  lower  sections  already  described.  It 
is  a  vast  prairie  region,  with  occasional  clusters,  or  small 
groves,  of  palmetto,  sometimes  a  solitary  tree,  or  half  a 
dozen  in  a  group.  Here  are  seen  great  herds  of  cattle,  for 
it  is  an  excellent  grazing  region,  and  here  the  lazy,  hideous, 
but  cowardly  alligators  are  found  in  all  their  glory.  Being 
seldom  disturbed  by  man,  they  thrive  in  all  this  region  in 
great  numbers,  attain  their  fullest  size,  and  are  not  so 
timid  ;  can  be  approached  nearer  than  in  the  northern  sec- 
tions of  the  State.  The  entire  region  is  literally  alive  with 
game,  the  rivers  and  numerous  lakes  being  full  of  fish  of 
many  varieties,  the  prairie-grasses  and  the  groves  filled 
with  all  kinds  of  small  game,  while  bear  and  deer  are  abun- 
dant, and  in  all  directions  may  be  seen  ducks,  geese,  loons, 
coots,  pelicans,  storks,  cranes,  herons — all  kinds  of  birds  and 
fowls  for  food  or  plumage.  It  is  a  paradise  for  hunters  and 
anglers.  The  journey  through  this  region  is  always  deeply 
interesting  to  the  traveler  (if  properly  provided  with  sports- 
men's outfits,  mosquito-nettings,  etc.),  who  is  usually  im- 
pressed with  a  feeling  of  being  far  away,  out  of  the  coun- 
try, in  a  strange  clime  and  land. 

The  lower  St,  John's  presents  an  attractive  Southern 
scene  ;  the  middle  St.  John's  presents  a  semi-tropical  scene 
of  jungles  and  orange-groves  ;  but  the  upper  St.  John's  is 
the  truly  tropical  region,  deeply  im2:)ressive,  more  easily  re- 
finest  of  the  river-boats.  The  figures  can  be  decreased  somewhat  by  pass- 
ing over  the  route  direct,  without  stops,  or  increased  by  making  stops  at 
all  private  landings.  The  distances  here  given  arc  accurate,  as  made  by 
tlie  mail-boats. 


THE  ST.  JOHN'S  RIVER.  123 

memberecl  than  described.  (An  extended  description  of  a 
journey  in  this  region  is  given  in  the  chapter  on  the  French 
trip.) 

The  St.  John's  River  Fleet. — One  of  the  most  con- 
chisive  evidences  of  the  rapid  growth  of  Florida,  especially 
of  South  Florida,  is  the  numerous  and  constantly  increasing 
fleet  of  steamers  that  traverse  the  waters  of  the  St.  John's 
River.  It  is  but  three  or  four  years  since  two  or  three  old 
and  slow-going  boats  performed  all  the  service  upon  this 
great  artery  of  commerce,  M'here  now  upward  of  a  dozen 
swift  and  commodious  steamers  are  barely  adequate  to  the 
requirements  of  travel  and  traffic.  Of  the  several  steamer 
lines  now  in  operation,  the  "  De  Bary  Line "  is  the  most 
important  and  popular.  It  carries  the  United  States  mails, 
and  runs  daily  to  Sanford,  stopping  at  all  mail-stations. 
At  the  general  office  of  the  line  in  Jacksonville  (on  their 
own  wharf)  will  be  found  Captain  William  Watson,  the 
manager,  and  Mr.  C.  B.  Fenwick,  the  highly  popular  and 
genial  general  passenger  agent.  The  steamers  of  the  line 
are  the  Fred  De  Bary  (Captain  Shaw),  the  largest  and 
most  elegant  on  the  river,  the  George  M.  Bird  (Captain 
Amazecn),  the  Rosa  (Captain  Smith),  the  Florence  (Cap- 
tain Brock),  and  the  Sylvan  Glen,  a  swift  boat  formerly 
running  on  the  New  York  and  Harlem  line. — The  "  Pio- 
neer Line,"  the  oldest  on  the  river,  comprises  four  steam- 
ers, of  which  the  Arrow  (Captain  Payne)  runs  twice  weekly 
between  Jacksonville  and  Sanford,  while  the  little  craft 
Volusia  (Captain  Lund)  runs  weekly  to  Salt  Lake  and 
other  points  on  the  extreme  upper  St.  John's.  The  other 
steamers  of  this  line,  the  Fox  and  Daylight,  ply  between 
Sanford  and  all  points  above. — The  "  Independent  Line  " 
consists  at  present  of  the  City  of  Sanford  (Captain  Rhodes), 
which  runs  twice  weekly  between  Jacksonville  and  San- 
ford.    A  tine  new  boat  is  shortlv  to  be  added  to  its  service. 


124  FLORIDA. 

— The  Wc-ki-wa  (Captain  Jones)  "goes  it  alone,"  plying 
between  Jacksonville  and  the  remote  upi)er  regions  of  the 
river.  It  is  a  small  and  old-fashione(l  l)o;it. — A  small 
steamer  leaves  Jacksonville  every  al'ternoon  for  Fort  (ieorge 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's,  returning  next  morn- 
ing, and  affording  a  delightful  excursion. — Several  small 
steamers  ply  at  frequent  intervals  l)etween  Jacksonville 
and  the  various  villages  and  private  landings  on  the  river 
as  far  up  as  Palatka.* 

*  Details  as  to  these  various  steamers  (hours  of  clci)arture,  etc.)  will  be 
found  in  the  chapter,  "  Routes  to  and  through  Florida." 


CHAPTER   VII. 

THE    OCKLAWAIIA    RIVER,    SILVER    SI'RIXG,    AXD    OCALxV. 

The  bead-waters  of  the  Ocklawalia  are  formed  by  a 
series  of  s})rings  rising  to  tbe  surface  in  the  central  sections 
of  Orange  and  Sumter  Counties,  and  by  tributary  streams 
from  the  several  large  lakes  of  that  region,  including  Lakes 
Eustis,  Harris,  Griffin,  and  Dora.  Some  of  these  springs 
are  remarkable  for  their  size,  purity,  clearness,  and  mineral 
qualities,  particularly  Clay  Spring,  near  Apopka.  The  river 
flows  through  portions  of  four  counties,  with  a  coui'se  al- 
most due  north  until  it  touches  the  noi'thcrn  boundary  of 
Marion  County,  when  it  turns  due  east,  and  empties  into 
the  St.  John's  at  Welaka,  twenty-five  miles  south  of  Pilat- 
ka.  Its  total  length  is  about  three  hundred  and  forty  miles, 
and  it  is  navigable  throughout  by  the  little  steamers,  which 
also  traverse  many  of  its  tributaries  to  their  fountain-heads, 
thus  penetrating  to  all  portions  of  that  rich  interior  region 
lying  in  the  center  of  the  peninsula.  The  steamers  of  the 
Avell-known  "Hart  Line"  are  a  species  of  craft  i)eculiar  to 
the  Ocklawaha,  and  for  many  years  they  afforded  the  only 
means  of  access  and  transportation  for  all  that  vast  region. 
Railroads  are  now  penetrating  it,  and  in  a  few  years  the 
whistle  of  the  locomotive  will  l)e  heard  in  every  hamlet.'^ 

*  Tlu"  St.  John's  and  Lake  Eustis  Kailroad,  nmniuir  soutlnwst  from 
Astor  on  thu  St.  John's  Ilivor  to  Fort  Mason  on  Lake  Eustis,  a  distance  of 
twenty-six  miles,  is  ik)w  in  successful  operation.  Preparations  are  making 
to  extend  it  to  Peiidrvvillc  on  Lake  Eustis  (two  miles)  and  to  Leesburg  on 


126 


FLORIDA. 


The  river,  as  it  is  termed,  is  quite  an  indefinite  body  of 
water.  It  is  more  properly  a  series  of  lagoons,  overflowed 
swamps,  long  narrow  lakes,  and  great  springs — all  connected 
and  interlinked — the  water-basin  of  the  western  portion  of 


FORKST   ON   THE   OCKLAWAHA. 


the  St.  John's  River  Valley.  It  is  an  extensive  region  of 
dense  jungle,  lying  low  and  flat,  undrainable,  and  inipossi- 

Lake  Griffin  (twelve  miles).  It  is  also  thought  that  the  branch  of  tlie  Tran- 
sit Railroad  which  now  extends  southward  to  Ocala  will  shortly  be  pro- 
longed to  Leesburg  and  possibly  to  Lake  Maitland. 


TUE  OCKLAWAEA   RIVER.  127 

ble  to  improve  for  human  use  ;  and  will  always  remain  wild 
and  unmolested,  a  paradise  for  all  the  strange  reptiles,  in- 
sects, birds,  and  fish  that  seek  its  innermost  recesses.  To 
the  pleasure-seeking  tourist  and  the  sportsman  it  affords  an 
inexhaustible  field  of  interest,  but  to  the  invalid,  health- 
seeker,  or  practical  settler  it  offers  no  attractions.  As  the 
steamer  follows  the  vaguely  defined  course  of  the  channel, 
there  are  frequent  landings,  localities  where  points  of  the 
mainland  extend  like  a  peninsula  into  this  watery  jungle, 
affording  access  and  outlets  to  the  more  profitable  and 
healthy  regions  lying  inland  all  along  the  route. 

The  writer,  as  has  already  been  explained,  accompanied 
the  Grant  party  on  their  tour  through  Florida  in  January, 
1880.  Returning  from  a  visit  to  the  upper  St.  John's,  at 
Welaka,  we  changed  steamers,  and  were  soon  snugly  quar- 
tered on  the  strange  little  steamer  Osceola,  which  started 
off  at  once  for  a  night-journey  up  the  Ocklaw^aha. 

The  steamers  that  thread  the  very  narrow  and  wonder- 
fully crooked  waters  of  that  stream  are  each  an  aquatic 
curiosity.  Built  especially  for  the  route,  they  are  alto- 
gether unique  ;  there  are  none  others  anywhere  like  them. 
They  are  particularly  curious  in  that  they  have  an  appear- 
ance of  having  been  placed  in  service  just  before  com})le- 
tion.  Constructed  with  two  decks — quite  low  between — a 
snug  little  square-shaped  wheel-house  high  up  forward,  and 
a  tiny  little  lobby  deck  aft,  with  the  row  of  three  or  four 
little  state-rooms  ranged  between,  they  are  unexcelled  for 
the  accommodations  which  they  afford  in  the  scanty  space 
at  command  ;  and  are  a  much  more  comfortable  and  ser- 
viceable craft  than  their  appearance  would  indicate.* 

Upon  the  roof  of  the  wheel-house  of  our  special  steamer 
was  a  large  iron  box  where  a  bonfire  of  pitch-i)ine  knots 
lighted  up  the  scenery  by  night.     A  huge  stern-wheel  fur- 

*  For  specific  information  about  steamers,  hours  of  departure,  fares,  etc., 
see  chapter  ou  "  Koutes  to  and  through  Florida." 


128 


FLORIDA. 


nished  tlie  propel liiijj:  power.  The  caldn  was  quite  neat, 
but  a  perfect  little  doll's  house  in  size  and  furnishing.  The 
"  seclusion  that  a  cabin  grants  "  was  not  included  on  this 


A  RivEK  PosT-OrFiriv. 


boat,  but  it  was  big  enough  to  afford  accommodation  for  all, 

there  being  but  four  or  five  passengers  other  than  our  party. 

It  was  but  a  few  moments  after  leaving  the  pier  at  We- 


THE  OCKLAWAIIA   EIVEE. 


129 


laka  that  the  valiant  little  steamer  suddenly  turned,  plunged 
boldly  into  a  dense  thicket,  and  we  were  in  the  very  mouth 
of  the  Oeklawaha.  The  first  query  on  board  was,  "  How 
did  the  pilot  hud  the  entrance  to  the  stream  ? "  for  it  re- 
sembled a  little  brook  pouring-  out  from  a  jungle  of  over- 
hanging trees.  Another  problem  Avas,  "  as  to  how  he  man- 
aged to  keep  in  the  right  channel  on  the  route "  ;  for  it 


TiiK  Looxorr. 


would  be  diilicult  to  imagine  anything  short  of  a  bow-knot 
more  crooked,  and  there  were  many  places  where  half  a 
dozen  apparent  streams  would  be  found  all  converging  upon 
one  point,  and  all  exactly  alike.  The  wonderful  ability  of 
that  pilot,  his  foresight,  or  eyesight,  inspired  us  all  with 
profound  admiration,  not  to  say  awe. 

The   steamer  began   its  journey  late    in   the  afternoon, 


130  FLOPdDA. 

to  give  us  a  night  view  of  the  river,  and  we  all  spent  the 
evening,  night,  and  morning  on  deck,  deeply  interested  in 
watching  the  scenery,  which  begins  its  strangeness  at  the 
very  outset,  and  is  worth  the  seeing  every  rod  of  the  route. 
It  is  grand,  impressive,  strange,  tropical — now  gloomy  and 
awe-inspiring,  now  fairy-like  and  charming,  and  again  weird 
and  wild.  The  great  forest-trees  of  that  region  are  all  of 
immense  size,  oaks,  gums,  magnolias,  cypress,  etc.,  inter- 
spersed with  the  more  tropical  palmetto  and  palm,  all  laden 
and  interlocked  Avith  a  perfect  network  of  immense  vines, 
too  tangled  for  description,  brilliant  with  vegetation — 
leaves  of  all  colors,  flowers  of  all  shapes,  sizes,  and  hues, 
and  loaded  with  great  clusters  of  mosses.  The  most  con- 
spicuous and  abundant  of  these  mosses  is  the  Sj^anish  moss, 
with  its  delicate,  silvery-gray  shade  ;  but  clusters  of  the 
popular,  pretty  mistletoe,  with  its  bright  berries,  are  also 
seen,  and  occasional  masses  of  that  handsomest  of  all  mosses, 
the  famous  Avoman's-hair.  This  strange  air-growth  has  a 
rich,  glistening,  golden  color,  is  long  and  fibrous  in  text- 
ure, wavy,  and  closely  resembling  a  mass  of  blonde  hair. 
It  is  a  rare  moss,  and  when  seen  hanging  from  some  bough 
gives  one  the  impression  that  three  or  four  bushels  of  gold- 
en locks  have  been  shorn  from  fair  heads  and  hung  thereon 
for  adornment. 

The  scene  is  enlivened  with  birds  of  many  kinds,  nearly 
all  strange  to  the  Northern  eye — snowy-white  storks,  cranes, 
herons,  Avater-turkeys,  hell-divers,  curlews,  etc. — many  hav- 
ing brilliant  plumage.  The  waters  teem  with  large  turtles 
and  alligators,  that  quickly  disappear  as  they  catch  a 
glimpse  of  the  pufting,  chuffing  little  steamer  as  it  comes 
around  a  bend. 

The  stream  is  generally  very  narrow  ;  in  many  places, 
often  for  quite  a  long  distance,  the  branches  of  the  great 
trees  interlock  across  the  channel,  forming  vast  arched 
avenues,  paved  with  a  floor  of  intensely  black  water,  roofed 


THE  OCKLAWAHA   RIVER.  131 

with  dense,  dark  foliage  decorated  Avith  great  fringes  of 
moss.  These  covered  passages  are  solemn  and  impressive 
at  any  time  ;  but  in  the  night,  when  lighted  up  by  the 
blaze  of  the  brilliant  bonfire  burning  on  the  roof  of  the 
wheel-house,  then  the  scene  is  quite  indescribable.  The 
inky  water,  the  lights  and  shadows  of  the  foliage,  the  dis- 
turbed birds  as  they  wheel  gracefully  out  of  sight,  all  leave 
an  impression  never  to  be  forgotten. 

Early  the  next  morning,  Silver  Spring  was  reached,  and 
after  an  excellent  breakfast  all  went  ashore.  There  is  noth- 
ing especially  interesting  about  the  locality  except  the 
spring.  Boats  were  in  readiness,  and  all  enjoyed  a  row 
over  its  translucent  surface,  and  wondered  at  its  marvelous 
clearness — so  clear  are  the  w^aters,  that  small  pebbles  lying 
on  the  bottom,  sixty-five  feet  below,  can  easily  be  distin- 
guished. We  dropped  in  several  small  jjieces  of  tin  about 
the  size  of  a  silver  dime,  and  could  plainly  see  them  at 
the  bottom  ;  and  a  tenpenny  nail,  dropped  in  and  closely 
watched  as  it  descended,  could  be  distinctly  traced  to  its 
resting-place  far  below. 

The  spring  has  a  surface  area  of  about  three  acres,  and 
the  very  commonplace,  flat,  circular  shore  is  mostly  covered 
wdth  a  growth  of  heavy  pine  and  thickets  of  underbrush. 
The  sides  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water  are  nearly  ver- 
tical ;  in  fact,  the  spring  is  very  like  a  great  punch-bowl 
sunk  in  the  earth.  The  water  boils  up  from  invisible  sources 
in  the  bottom,  so  evenly  and  quietly,  that  not  a  motion  is 
observable  on  the  surface,  and  so  copiously  that  a  deep  and 
navigable  river  about  one  hundred  feet  Avide  is  formed  at 
the  start,  and  in  seven  miles  reaches  a  junction  with  the 
Ocklawaha. 

After  a  thorough  inspection  of  this  wonder  of  nature, 
we  rode  over  to  Ocala,  six  miles  distant,  arriving  tliere  in 
season  to  enjoy  a  dinner  at  the  comfortable,  old-fasliioned 
tavern.     Tlie   drive   from   the   spring  was  mostly  through 


132 


FLORIDA. 


a  nearly  level  pine-wood  country,  not  particularly  interest- 
ing ;  but  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town  the  soil  is 


«l»    « 


generally  good,  and  under  careful  cultivation  that  is  rapidly 
improving  its  value. 


THE   OCKLAWAHA    RIVER. 


133 


13i  FLORIDA. 

Ocala  numbers  about  one  thousand  inhabitants,  is  the 
county-seat  of  Marion  County,  an.d  was  a  nourishing  place 
in  ante-bellum  days,  the  center  of  a  large  neighborhood  of 
wealthy  planter  society.  A  railroad  has  just  been  com- 
pleted there  from  Waldo,  on  the  Transit  Railroad,  and 
another  road,  now  building,  will  soon  reach  there,  giving 
Ocala  at  last  the  much-needed  quick  steam  communication 
with  the  commercial  centers  of  the  country.  Its  popula- 
tion is  enterprising  and  energetic,  and  Ocala  is  evidently 
destined  to  be  an  important  railroad  center  in  the  near 
future,  for  it  is  in  the  direct  pathway  of  other  railroads 
necessary  to  develop  that  portion  of  the  State. 

The  return  voyage  down  the  Ocklawaha  was  without 
special  incident,  but  repetition  can  not  wither  nor  custom 
stale  the  infinite  variety  and  interest  of  that  unique  scenery. 
Every  visitor  to  Florida  should  make  the  famous  excursion 
"  up  the  Ocklawaha,"  and  no  one  who  has  once  made  it 
will  be  likely  ever  to  forget  a  night-journey  upon  what 
has  been  well  called  "  The  Mysterious  River." 

Until  recently  Silver  Spring  was  the  end  of  the  ordinary 
tourist  journey  on  the  Ocklawaha,  but  the  little  steamers  go 
far  beyond  that,  threading  the  upper  river,  and  making  the 
circuit  of  Lakes  Eustis,  Harris,  and  Grifiin.  These  three 
lakes  are  among  the  largest  in  Florida,  and  the  trip  upon 
them  enables  the  tourist  to  see  some  of  the  most  striking 
and  picturesque  scenery  in  the  State.  Just  south  of  Lake 
Eustis,  Avith  which  it  is  connected  by  a  channel  that  has 
not  yet  been  opened  to  navigation,  lies  Lake  Dora,  another 
large  lake,  whose  high  and  bluff-like  shores  remind  one 
rather  of  the  lake  region  of  western  New  York  than  of  the 
low  and  sandy  levels  that  usually  characterize  Florida. 
From  the  summits  of  several  of  the  headlands  on  its  north- 
ern side  may  be  obtained  views  far  and  near  that  will  prove 
memorable  in  their  loveliness — that  will  haunt  the  mind 
long  after  the  vision  of  them  has  vanished. 


THE  OCKLAWAHA   EIVER. 


135 


The  folloAving  table  will  prove  useful,  as  showing  the 
principal  landings  on  the  river  and  lakes,  and  the  distances 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  is  twenty-five  miles 
south  of  Pilatka,  and  nearly  opposite  AVelaka  : 


TABLE    OF   DISTANCES    OX    THE    OCKLAWAHA. 
511LSS.  I 

Davenport 8    Lake  Ware  Landing 

Fort  Brook 35    Moss  Bluff 

Orange  Spring 37  |  Stark 

lola 50  ,  Orange  Hope 


Forty -foot  Bluff 54 

Eureka C8 

Sunday  Bluff 70 

Palmetto 76 

Gore's 82 

Dcurisosa 88 

Grahamvilie 92 

Limpkin  Bluff 96 

Silver  Springs  Kan 101 

Silver  Spring 110 


Slighville 

Leesburg 

Lake  Griffin  Po 

Lovell's 

Fort  Mason..  .  . 
Pcndryville. .  .  . 

Esperancc 

Yalalia 

Helena 

Okahumkee  .  .  . 


-t-0.'!it 


IILES. 

125 
128 
162 
164 
168 
178 
183 
195 
205 
208 
229 
234 
247 
249 


Fair  hotel  accommodations  can  he  obtained  at  Leesburg, 
at  Pendry  ville,  and  at  Fort  Mason  ;  but  the  latter  is  a  most 
unattractive  jjlace.  What  is  greatly  needed  in  the  interest 
of  tourists  is  a  cross-cut  railroad  from  the  Lake  Eustis  re- 
gion to  Sanford  on  the  St.  John's,  affording  the  opportunity 
for  a  "  round  trip  "  up  one  river  and  down  the  other.  When 
this  is  constructed,  as  it  should  be  soon,  commodious  hotels 
will  spring  up  in  all  this  regior. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE    INDIAN    RIVER    REGION    AND    THE    INLAND    LAKES. 

The  Indian  River  region  is  tbe  most  widely  known  of 
any  portion  of  all  South  Florida,  but  it  is  visited  by  very 
few  tourists  and  travelers,  owing  mostly  to  its  general  in- 
accessibility. The  shortest  distance  from  Jacksonville  by 
the  usual — and  at  present  oidy — method  of  transportation 
(the  St.  John's  River  route)  is  upward  of  two  hundred 
miles,  and  this  long  journey  ends  at  Titusville,  located  al- 
most on  the  head-waters  of  the  famous  river.  A  detailed 
deseinption  of  the  journey  from  Jacksonville,  also  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  various  places  Avhich  I  visited  on  the  Indian 
River,  is  given  elsewhere,  in  the  chapter  containing  an  ac- 
count of  the  writer's  tour  of  the  State  with  Hon.  Kelh 
French.  The  purpose  of  this  chapter  is  to  give  a  more 
comprehensive  description  of  the  resources  and  advantages 
of  the  region  regarded  as  a  whole. 

Indian  River  runs  parallel  with  the  Atlantic  coast, 
northwe.it  and  southeast,  extending  south  of  latitude  27°, 
and  running  north  of  2S^°,  measuring  from  one  and  a  half 
to  seven  miles  in  width,  and  fi*om  four  to  sixteen  feet  in 
depth  of  channel,  though  in  many  places  one  may  wade 
more  than  half  a  mile  from  shore. 

It  abounds  in  every  variety  of  fish,  but  is  distinguished 
for  its  superb  mullet,  the  general  weight  of  which  is  from 
two  to  five  pounds,  but  in  many  instances  they  weigh  from 
six  to  nine  pounds,  measuring  twenty  or  twenty-two  inches 
in  length.    The  sheep's-head,  sea-trout,  cavalici",  and  bass  are 


THE  INDIAN  RIVER  REGION. 


137 


Cj^j 


Looking  across  Indian  Rivkr. 


large  and  fine.     There  arc  very  extensive  lieds  of  oysters  in 
the  soutliern  portion  of  the  river,  of  the  largest  si//,-  and  most 


138  FLORIDA. 

superior  flavor  ;  and  these  are  so  accessible  that  the  canning 
of  them  would  prove  a  profitable  occupation.  Turtling  is 
carried  on  to  some  extent  and  })roves  quite  lucrative.  The 
river  is  separated  from  the  Atlantic  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land  from  one  to  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  the  ma- 
jority of  which  is  poor  sand-scrub,  though  it  contains  bod- 
ies of  very  rich  hammock.  Approximating  thus  near  the 
Atlantic,  it  has  the  benefit  of  the  sea-breeze  in  its  pure 
state,  and  this,  combined  with  the  mild,  genial  climate  of  a 
southern  latitude,  is  what  renders  it  so  famous  for  health 
— such  a  thing  as  sickness  being  scarcely  known  ^ipon  the 
river. 

The  pine-lands  largely  predominate,  some  of  very  fair 
productive  quality,  with  beautiful  sites  immediately  upon 
the  river  having  an  altitude  of  eight  to  sixteen  feet  above 
the  water.  There  are  also  fine  bodies  of  the  most  splendid 
hammocks  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  tropical 
fruits,  the  leading  varieties  of  which  are  the  orange,  lemon, 
lime,  citron,  banana,  plantain,  pineapple,  guava,  pomegran- 
ate, tamarind,  sapodilla,  avocado-pear,  French  lime,  mama- 
apple,  sugar-apple,  mango,  papaw,  cacao,  date,  cocoanut, 
English  walnut,  pecan-nut,  yam,  ginger,  cassava,  etc-.  The 
orange  is  the  leading  crop.  It  requires  three  years  from 
transplanting  to  commence  bearing,  then  pays  hundreds  of 
dollars  per  acre,  and  soon  runs  to  thousands,  there  hav- 
ing been  four  to  six  thousand  dollars  per  acre  realized  in 
one  season.  Bananas  grow  considerably  north  of  this,  and 
pay  from  twelve  hundred  to  tAvo  thousand  dollars  per  acre. 
Pineapples  promise  from  eight  to  twelve  hundred  dollars 
per  acre.  Sugar-cane  grows  astonishingly,  attaining  a 
height  of  twelve  to  sixteen  feet,  single  stalks  yielding  more 
than  a  gallon  of  juice,  which,  being  boiled  down,  makes  over 
a  quart  of  thick  sirup,  and  produces  five  or  six  hundred  gal- 
lons of  sirup  per  acre.  Of  peas  and  pumpkins  two  crops 
from  the  same  vine  are  raised  in  abundance,  and  potatoes 


THE  INDIA  y  RIVER  REG  I  OX.  139 

flor.risli  the  year  round.  The  natural  growth  of  the  ham- 
mock is  the  sturdy  live-oak,  measuring  from  two  to  six  feet 
in  diameter;  the  stately  hickory,  two  to  three  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  twenty  to  forty  feet  to  the  first  limbs;  the  red  elm, 
mulberry,  wahoo,  cabbage-palmetto,  with  an  undergrowth 
of  hack-bush,  torch-wood,  marl-bush  and  vines.  There  are 
also  the  iron-wood  and  crab-wood,  approximating  in  weight 
to  the  lignum-vita?,  and  susceptible  of  the  finest  polish. 

There  are  numei'ous  springs  of  good  water  just  under 
the  bluff,  and  by  sinking  wells  twelve  to  sixteen  feet  wa- 
ter is  obtained  almost  anyvvdiere.  The  water  in  the  ham-  . 
mocks  is  more  or  less  impregnated  with  lime,  there  being  a 
stratum  of  coquina-rock  underlying  the  surface,  forming 
an  inexhaustible  supply  of  the  most  valuable  fertilizer.  The 
woods  abound  in  small  game  and  in  deer,  bears,  and  an  occa- 
sional pantlier,  with  the  most  superior  range  for  every  kind 
of  stock.  Four-year-old  steers  Aveigh  from  four  to  five 
hundred  pounds,  two-year-old  heifers  from  two  hundred 
and  fifty  to  three  hundred  pounds,  and  they  calve  at  that 
age.  Hogs  are  raised,  with  but  little  attention,  to  weigh  one 
hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  pounds  at  two  years  old. 
The  labor  of  one  man,  Avhen  once  properly  estab- 
lished, may  make  his  thousands.  The  great  need  is  trans- 
portation. By  referring  to  the  State  map,  it  will  be  per- 
ceived that  a  canal  eight  miles  in  length  will  connect  the 
Halifax  and  Mantanzas  Rivers;  then  a  little  work  upon  the 
Haulover,  between  Halifax  and  Indian  Rivers,  puts  it  in 
connection  with  St.  Augustine.  So  that  a  line  of  light- 
draught  steamers  plying  through  these  rivers,  a  distance 
of  over  two  hundred  miles,  connecting  at  St.  Augustine 
with  large-class  steamers  outside,  and  by  railroad  to  Jackson- 
ville, gives  a  direct  communication  Avith  the  world.  It  will 
also  attract  the  trade  and  develop  an  extensive  section  of 
country,  the  Kissimmee,  that  is  now  lying  almost  in  obscu- 
rity.    It  needs  an  outlet  or  pass  from  op]>()site  the  mouth  of 


140  FLORIDA. 

the  St.  Sebastian  into  the  Atlantic  (tliere  being  eight  feet 
of  water  in  the  river,  and  a  steep  sliore  on  the  Atlantic, 
which  will  prevent  its  ever  being  tilled  with  sand),  admit- 
ting large-class  steamers  and  increa:^ing  the  turtle  interest. 

With  these  connections,  the  Indian  River  will  come 
into  repute  for  vegetables.  It  can  supply  even  New  York 
in  the  months  of  January,  February,  and  March,  with  the 
most  delicate  varieties — tomatoes,  peas,  beans,  green  corn, 
cabbages,  melons,  etc.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  varie- 
ties of  grapes  can  be  grown  here  with  success — the  Scup- 
pernong  to  perfection.  The  base  of  all  Southern  Florida  is 
limestone  ;  this  it  is  that  prevents  miasma,  and  it  is  this  de- 
composed limestone  that  makes  the  soils  of  that  region  so 
fertile. 

In  describing  this  Indian  River  region  it  is  appropriate 
to  include  the  regions  about  Lake  Worth  and  Key  Biscay ne 
Bay,  both  places  being  in  fact  a  continuation  of  that  special 
class  of  soil  and  j^roducts.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  men- 
tion that  all  this  region,  including  the  Indian  River,  is  en- 
tirely below  the  frost-line.  The  thermometer  throughout 
the  year  shows  a  temperature  of  about  75°,  the  extremes 
being  49°  and  02°. 

THE    INLAXD    LAKES. 

Another  delightful  variety  of  country  found  in  Florida 
is  the  central  lake  region.  There  are  no  mountains  in  the 
State,  and  but  few  hills  worthy  of  mention,  and  these  few 
are  usually  in  more  or  less  unfavorable  localities  ;  but  the 
absence  of  these  pleasant  topographical  featui-es  is  com- 
pensated by  the  great  number  of  lakes,  scattered  thickly  all 
through  the  central  regions  away  from  the  seacoasts  and 
large  rivers.  They  are  cf  all  shapes  and  sizes,  from  ponds 
of  an  acre  area  in  extent  to  spacious  lakes  of  thirty  by  fifty 
miles  dimensions,  with  flat,  pine-clad  shores,  or  bold  bluffs, 
or  rolling  banks,  or   jungle-clad   outlines,   all  pretty,  and 


THE  INLAND  LAKES.  141 

filled  with  remarkably  pure,  clear  water  which  teems  with 
fish. 

Ill  the  northern  counties  are  many  of  these  lakes,  mostly 
of  large  size,  with  high,  rolling  shores,  and  in  some  respects 
closely  resembling  tlie  famous  lakes  of  central  New  York 
or  Wisconsin.  In  the  vicinity  of  Tallahassee  are  several, 
all  beautiful,  particularly  Lake  Jackson,  a  large  sheet  of 
water  that  is  deservedly  one  of  the  choice  attractions  shown 
the  visitor.  Lakes  lamonia,  Lafayette,  Bradford,  and  Mic- 
cosukie,  also  in  the  vicinity  of  Tallahassee,  are  all  beautiful 
and  interesting. 

Farther  south,  in  Alachua  and  Putnam  Counties,  and 
lying  southeast  of  the  Florida  Transit  Railroad,  is  anoth- 
er particularly  attractive  cluster  of  lakes.  These  include 
Lakes  George,  Brooklyn,  Waldo,  Santa  Fe,  and  Deep  Lake, 
all  of  considerable  size,  with  from  three  hundred  to  ten 
thousand  acres  area.  Lake  Santa  Fe  is  the  largest  of  this 
cluster,  and  probably  the  prettiest.  On  a  bold  bluff  of  its 
fertile  shore  the  Santa  Fe  Hotel  has  recently  been  built,  a 
fine,  roomy  structure,  in  the  midst  of  a  large,  ])ark-like  gar- 
den, with  a  charming  lawn  sloping  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  It  is  only  a  short  drive  thither  from  Waldo  Station, 
on  the  Transit  Railroad.  Recently  a  party  of  enterprising 
local  capitalists  have  excavated  a  series  of  short  canals,  thus 
establishing  communication  between  all  the  lakes  in  this 
chain,  and  now  tliey  have  steam  transportation  from  all 
points  on  the  lakes  to  Waldo  Station. 

Farther  south  again  is  the  famous  Orange  Lake  region, 
in  Alachua  and  Marion  Counties,  lying  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  Transit  Railroad.  Orange  Lake  is  the  prin- 
cipal of  these,  and  is  (piite  a  large  sheet  of  Avaier.  Tlie 
famous  orange-groves  owned  by  Dr.  Bishop  and  Mr.  Harris 
are  located  on  the  shores  of  this  lake,  which  is  skirted  by 
the  branch  of  the  Transit  Railroiid  that  runs  south  to 
Ocala. 


142  FLORIDA. 

Still  farther  soutli  is  found  tlie  Lake  Harris  region,  situ- 
ated in  Sumter  and  Orange  Counties,  principally  in  Sumter. 
These  lakes  include  Harris,  Eustis,  Griffin,  and  Dora,  all 
large  lakes  of  four  to  ten  miles  in  length  and  Avidth.  There 
are  numerous  other  smaller  lakes  in  their  vicinity,  hut  these 
named  are  the  j)rincipal.  These  lakes,  as  explained  in  the 
preceding  chapter,  form  the  head-waters  of  the  Ocklawaha 
River,  and  are  surrounded  by  the  richest  lands  of  the  most 
fertile  region  of  Florida.  Their  shores  are  everywhere  re- 
markably beaiitiful,  and  the  land  would  be  highly  produc- 
tive under  cultivation.  There  are  already  many  splendid 
orange-groves  growing  on  their  shores,  and  settlers  are  fast 
flowing  in. 

Lake  Panasofkee,  situated  a  considerable  distance  west 
of  the  Harris  clustei',  in  the  same  county,  is  a  noticeably 
large  lake  surrounded  by  rich  hammock-lands.  (This  lake 
is  fully  described  in  the  cha^^tcr  on  the  tour  of  the  State 
with  Mr.  French.) 

Lake  Apopka,  just  to  the  south  of  the  Harris  group, 
is  a  lake  region  by  itself,  so  to  speak,  for  all  that  section 
is  known  to  the  people  of  the  State  as  the  Lake  Ajiopka 
region.  It  is  a  large  lake,  with  a  coast-line  of  fifty  miles. 
The  surrounding  country  is  quite  beautiful  in  scenery  and 
of  rich  soil.  A  number  of  the  best  orange-groves  in  the 
State  are  in  this  region,  entirely  beyond  danger  of  frosts. 

Again  passing  south  and  oast,  the  famous  inland  lake 
region  of  Orange  County  is  reached.  It  is  in  the  vicinity 
of  Maitland,  Osceola,  Interlaken,  and  Orlando,  that  thesie 
lakes  are  most  numerous.  Looking  in  any  direction  from 
those  places,  several  of  these  pretty  little  lakelets  can  be 
seen.  From  a  certain  standpoint  in  Maitland  nine  lakes  are 
in  plain  sight. 

Their  sizes  vary  from  ten  acres  to  three  thousand  acres  ; 
their  shores  are,  generally  speaking,  slightly  rolling.  The 
land  of  that  region  is  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  pine, 


THE  INLAND  LAKES.  143 

interspersed  with  occasional  tracts  of  hammock,  and  the 
surface  is  mostly  flat  and  not  very  attractive  to  the  eye,  nor 
very  fertile  in  productive  quality,  except  by  fertilizing  ;  but 
an  offset  to  these  objections  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  nn- 
doxibtedly  the  healthiest  portion  of  Florida. 

This  lake  region  is  penetrated  by  the  South  Florida 
Railroad,  which  extends  from  Sanford  on  Lake  Monroe  to 
Orlando,  the  county-seat  of  Orange  County,  and  passes  the 
already-mentioned  villages  of  Maitland,  Osceola,  and  Inter- 
laken.  In  my  tour  of  the  State  with  Mr.  French  (Chapter 
III),  I  have  already  described  it  at  considerable  length,  and 
it  is  also  described  in  the  chapter  on  "  The  Sanford  Grant." 
I  may  add  that  the  soil  directly  around  Orlando  is  probably 
the  best  in  the  region. 

Farther  south  are  numerous  lakes,  many  of  them  quite 
large,  like  Lakes  Butler,  Conway,  Tohopekaliga,  Cypress, 
Kissimmee,  and  Marianna,  all  situated  in  the  center  of  the 
peninsula,  and  surrounded  by  a  rich  hammock-soil.  As  yet 
there  are  scarcely  any  settlers  in  all  that  extensive  region, 
M'hich  is  quite  beyond  the  confines  of  civilization  at  this 
writing.  The  country  is  mostly  of  a  prairie-like  character, 
resembling  portions  of  Illinois,  excepting  that  the  vegeta- 
tion is  purely  tropical,  including  many  scattered  groves  of 
stately  palmettoes. 

Lake  Okechobee,  still  farther  south,  is  the  largest  in 
the  State,  covering  an  area  of  upward  of  six  hundred 
square  miles,  and  extending  fairly  into  the  region  of  the 
Everglades,  The  "  Everglades  "  occupy  nearly  the  whole 
southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  and  are,  as  I  have 
elsewhere  said,  not  so  much  a  marsh  as  an  extensive  lake, 
which  is  so  shallow  as  to  be  overgrown  with  grasses  and 
other  vegetation.  In  the  rainy  season,  in  ])artieular,  its 
lake-like  character  is  clearly  apparent. 

A  company  of  Philadelphia  capitalists  are  proposing  to 
drain  a  large  portion  of  this  Everglade  region,  by  cutting 
T 


144  FLORIDA. 

a  pcrios  of  canals  connecting  it  with  both  the  Gnlf  and  the 
Atlantic.  The  enterprise  is  one  of  considerable  magnitude, 
and,  if  fully  successful,  will  be  of  immense  value  to  them- 
selves, to  the  State,  and  indeed  to  the  entire  country,  as  it 
Avill  open  to  profitable  cultivation  "Inillions  of  acres  of  the 
richest  soil  in  the  world,  especially  and  peculiarly  adapted 
to  the  production  of  sugar. 

In  this  cursory  glance  at  the  inland  lakes  which  consti- 
tute a  characteristic  feature  of  the  Floridian  Peninsula,  I 
have  not  mentioned  the  innumerable  smaller  and  detached 
ones  that  dot  the  surface  nearly  everywhere,  nor  have  I  at- 
tempted even  to  name  the  coimtless  "  springs  "  found  in 
all  portions  of  the  State,  and  attaining  in  many  cases  to  the 
dimensions  of  lakes.  A  volume  would  be  required  in  order 
to  do  justice  to  them  all  ;  and  even  then,  probably,  that 
more  thorough  exploration  and  survey  of  the  State,  that 
is  sure  to  come  soon,  would  reveal  the  existence  of  many 
more. 

They  are  a  great  boon  to  the  State,  not  only  for  their 
beauty  and  picturesque  effect,  but  for  the  facilities  they 
offer  to  transportation,  and  the  fertility  they  impart  to  the 
soil.  Lands  on  their  shores  are  everywhere  eagerly  sought 
by  the  settler,  it  being  the  ambition  of  all  to  own  a  home 
nestling  on  a  lovely  lawn  bordering  upon  some  pretty  lake. 
And  surely  nowhere  can  there  be  found  more  attractive 
scenes  of  picturesque  domesticity  than  is  afforded  by  a 
lake-side  home  in  Florida, 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE    GULF-COAST    AND    KEY    WEST. 

The  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  wash  the  entire  west 
and  south  coast-line  of  Florida,  a  stretch  of  about  seven 
hundred  miles. 

Commencing  about  one  hundred  miles  northeast  along 
the  Atlantic  coast  side,  a  series  of  islands  forms  a  continuous 
chain  around  the  southern  extremity  of  the  State,  and  ex- 
tends in  a  line  bearing  south  of  west  from  the  mainland  out 
into  the  Gulf. 

These  islands  are  generally  small,  averaging  about  one 
hundred  acres,  excepting  Largo  and  Key  West,  which  are 
from  one  to  two  miles  in  Avidth  and  seven  to  ten  miles  in 
length.  All  are  quite  rocky,  but  the  sparse  sandy  soil  is 
very  fertile,  and  everywhere  covered  with  an  abundant  vege- 
tation. These  islands  are  called  keys,  and  the  cluster  at  the 
western  extremity  is  the  famous  Dry  Tortngas,  where  the 
United  States  Government  has  extensive  fortifications,  store- 
houses, and  military  supplies. 

South  of  this  long  chain  of  keys,  and  separated  from 
them  by  a  navigable  channel,  is  the  great  Florida  Reef,  a 
long,  narrow  ledge  of  coral,  of  great  danger  to  the  naviga- 
tion of  these  waters,  being  hidden  beneath  the  surface  of 
the  ocean,  and  only  exposed  to  view  in  severe  gales. 

All  this  great  line  of  mainland  and  island  coast  presents 
but  few  harbors,  owing  to  the  shallow  soundings.  Com- 
mencing at  the  extreme  western  end  of  the  coast,  the  hai'- 
bors  are  Pensacola,  A])palachicola,  St.  Marks,  Cedar  Keys, 


14G  FLORIDA. 

Tampa  Bay,  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  Key  West.  The  three 
ports  first  named,  together  with  Tampa  Uay,  have  been  de- 
scribed in  previous  chapters. 

Cedar  Keys  is  the  Gulf  terminus  of  the  Florida  Transit 
Railway  from  Fernandina  (one  hundred  and  fifty-four  miles), 
and  is  also  the  port  of  the  Henderson  Gulf  Line  of  steamers 
and  of  the  New  Orleans,  Havana  and  Gulf  Line,  both  lines 
having  excellent  steamers,  well  equipped  and  supplied,  and 
scheduled  so  as  to  connect  daily  at  Cedar  Keys  with  any 
of  the  Gulf  and  West  India  ports.  Cedar  Keys  is  a  dreamy, 
cleanly  kept,  irregular  little  village  of  orderly  and  thrifty 
people.  It  is  built  on  an  island  (as  its  name  suggests),  and 
faces  to  the  northeast,  quite  confusing  to  the  traveler,  who 
usually  expects  to  look  west  for  the  Gulf  waters.  The  rail- 
road enters  the  place  across  a  long  bridge  that  sj)ans  the 
lagoon.  The  general  appearance  of  the  town  is  pleasing, 
the  one  business  street  being  lined  with  substantial  struct- 
ures, mostly  built  of  coquina-stone,  and  in  design  and  mate- 
rial having  a  Spanish,  tropical  appearance  quite  in  keeping 
with  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  trade  is  mostly  whole- 
sale, and  amounts  annually  to  several  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  supplying  the  retail  dealers  of  all  the  little  ham- 
lets along  the  coast  and  rivers  of  a  large  ])ortion  of  that 
region.  To  the  hunter,  fisherman,  or  health-seeker,  it  offers 
attractions  equal  to  any  portion  of  Florida. 

Under  the  guidance  of  Major  Parsons,  who  has  resided 
here  forty-three  years,  the  w^riter  visited  all  the  various  points 
of  interest,  and  enjoyed  a  pleasant  visit  in  this  delightful 
old  place.  Late  one  brilliant  afternoon  we  were  on  board 
the  splendid  new  steamship  Admiral,  that  makes  two  trips 
weekly  between  Cedar  Keys,  Key  West,  and  Havana,  and 
soon  all  were  enjoying  the  soft,  refreshing  salt-water  breeze 
and  viewing  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  islands,  with  their 
wealth  of  tropical  vegetation,  the  large,  comfortable-appear- 
ing dwellings  standing  in  the  midst  of  flower-laden  gardens 


TUB  GULF-COAST  AND  KEY  WEST.  147 

and  broad,  bright  green  lawns.  On  we  sped,  passing  the 
graceful  lighthouse  and  picturosque  home  of  the  old  light- 
keeper,  out  into  the  warm  blue  waters  of  the  Gulf.  It  was 
a  lovely,  warm  evening.  After  partaking  of  an  excellent 
supper,  all  assembled  on  the  after-deck  in  the  deep  enjoy- 
ment of  cigars,  listening  to  anecdotes,  and  inhaling  tlie 
pure,  balmy  breeze,  observing  the  clear  sky,  the  brilliant 
stars,  and  bright  full  moon  that  lighted  the  calm  waters 
like  a  vast  sheet  of  glittering  silver.  It  was  a  charming 
scene  of  great  beauty,  deeply  enjoyed  and  long  to  be  re- 
membered by  all  the  participants,  none  retiring  until  a  late 
hour. 

Early  the  following  morning  all  were  on  deck,  sniffing 
the  invigorating  breeze  and  watching  the  many  dolphins, 
porpoises,  and  occasional  sharks,  as  they  plunged  through 
the  waters  in  every  direction. 

To  our  left,  quite  plainly  in  sight,  was  the  coast  of  Flor- 
ida, the  islands  of  very  tropical  appearance  forming  exceed- 
ingly pretty  pictures  as  the  bright  sun  rose  behind  them. 
The  coast  is  for  the  most  part  low  and  sandy,  edged  by 
shoals  and  bars,  and  broken  here  and  there  by  beautiful 
bays  and  indentations.  All  the  larger  inlets  are  filled  with 
islands,  most  of  which  are  sandy  and  arid,  though  some  are 
covered  with  a  tropical  luxuriance  of  vegetation. 

All  along  the  coast  at  convenient  points  are  little  farm- 
ing or  lumbering  settlements  ;  the  principal  being  Crystal 
River,  Ilamosassa,  Bayport,  Anclote  River,  Clear-Water 
Harbor,  Law's  Store,  McMullen's  Store,  Philippi's -Grove, 
Point  Penales,  Alafia,  Terrasea  Bay,  Little  Manatee,  ]\[ana- 
tee,  Sarasota,  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  Punta  Rassa.  Mana- 
tee, which  is  something  of  a  village,  is  not  directly  on  the 
coast,  but  about  eight  miles  up  the  ^Manatee  River,  in  a 
pleasant  situation,  where  game  is  abundant. 

Charlotte  Harbor,  however,  possesses  greater  natural  ad- 
vantages than  any  other  on  the  Gulf  coast,  and  has  been 


148  FLOPdDA. 

pronounced  by  competent  authority  to  1>g  the  best  harbor 
between  Port  Royal  and  Pensacola.  It  is  a  grand  sheet  of 
water,  about  thirty  miles  in  length  by  ten  in  Avidth,  easily 
accessible  from  the  Gulf,  and  stiidded  with  hundreds  of 
beautiful  tropical  islands,  of  which  the  most  important  are 
Pine,  Sanibal,  Captira,  Lacosta,  and  Gasi)arilla.  The  local- 
ity has  of  late  begun  to  attract  much  attention,  and  nearly 
all  the  projected  railroads  of  the  State  have  fixed  u])on 
Charlotte  Harbor  as  a  southern  terminus — among  them  the 
South  Florida  Railroad,  which,  as  explained  in  another 
chapter,  has  already  set  out  on  the  route  thither.  Indeed, 
the  geographical,  commercial,  and  climatic  advantages  of 
the  place  are  too  apparent  to  escape  notice,  and  I  believe 
that  some  locality  on  that  noble  harbor  is  destined  to  be- 
come a  great  trade  and  shipping  center,  and  one  of  the 
most  popular  winter  resorts  in  the  State.  All  the  lands  in 
the  vicinity  are  good  ;  and  crops  of  everything  that  can  be 
produced  elsewhere  in  the  semi-tropical  portions  of  Florida 
will  grow  there  and  produce  abundantly.  The  scenery  is 
beautiful,  the  climate  is  wonderfully  bland  and  equable, 
and  game  and  fish,  oysters,  turtles,  and  the  like,  are  found 
in  inexhaustible  quantities.  The  islands,  great  and  small, 
that  are  so  numerous  on  that  beautiful  coast,  are  wonder- 
fully pretty,  perfect  gems  of  tropical  scenery. 

Considering  how  numerous  are  the  summer  resorts,  in- 
land and  seaside  hotels  all  through  the  north  and  west, 
and  how  few  are  the  winter  resorts — the  hotels  specially 
for  wiirter  tourists  numbering  scarcely  two  dozen  in  all — 
and  they  net  in  the  really  tropical  region  of  the  State  ;  and 
considering  how  limited  is  the  tropical  region  ;  how  the 
number  of  hotel  residents,  of  tourists,  Avandering  to  all  sec- 
tions of  the  country,  summer  and  winter,  in  search  of  health 
and  pleasure,  is  increasing  to  such  a  vast  multitude  each 
year ;  and  that  the  hotels  of  Florida,  even  at  highest 
prices,  are  scarcely  able  to  accommodate  the  visitors  to  tlie 


TEE  GULF-COAST  AND  KEY  WEST.  149 

State — it  is  apparent  that  the  time  is  near  at  hand  M'hen  a 
vast  winter  "  Coney  Island,"  with  Newport  and  Long 
Branch  combined,  must  be  established  at  some  point  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  peninsula,  beyond  any  possible  danger 
of  cold,  frosts,  or  extreme  changes  ;  where  a  sea-beach 
drive,  islands  for  pleasure-yachts,  a  race-course,  polo-ground, 
base-ball  park,  etc.,  etc.,  can  be  established,  and  where  the 
health-seeker,  the  hunter,  and  the  fisher,  as  well  as  the  lover 
of  strange  scenes  and  excitement,  may  each  find  special  at- 
tractions. Charlotte  Harbor,  with  a  railroad,  would  present 
just  such  a  location  ;  and  railroads  must  go  there.  Each 
season  the  army  of  tourists  to  Florida  is  increasing,  and 
the  farther  south  they  can  get  the  better  they  like  it.  And 
this  spot  offers  attractions  not  possessed  by  any  other  in  the 
whole  country  for  such  a  resort.  As  I  sat  on  an  elevated 
spot  on  the  shore  of  that  harbor,  and  looked  over  its  broad, 
beautiful  expanse,  watching  the  sun  sinking  behind  the 
lovely  islands,  and  saAV  many  dolphins  gamboling  in  the 
bright  waves,  and  thought  of  the  myriads  of  fish  and  oys- 
ters so  easy  to  be  obtained,  and  the  soil,  so  prolific  of  all 
dainty  fruits,  I  reflected  that  it  only  needed  the  genius  of 
a  Corbin,  a  Breslin,  or  a  Lorillard,  to  wake  up  this  dreamy, 
delicious  locality,  and  make  it  a  spot  that  would  rival  any 
pleasure  resort  in  the  world.  With  competing  lines  of  rail- 
roads and  steamers,  and  consequent  low  fares,  all  the 
United  States  would  soon  wish  to  enjoy  the  novelty  of  see- 
ing a  horse-race,  or  a  game  of  base-ball,  or  a  yacht-race, 
or  to  try  a  swim,  pick  a  banana,  or  wear  a  white  suit,  in 
January. 

"On  Pease  Creek,  a  tributary  of  Charlotte  Harbor,  a 
large  amount  of  elevated  and  rich  lands  is  open  to  settle- 
ment. Tlie  mainland,  betAVceu  the  head  of  Charlotte  Har- 
bor, ]\[eyakka  River,  and  Little  Sarasota  Bay,  also  oifers  a 
fine  field  for  settlement.  J3etwcen  the  Haulover  and  the 
head  of  Little  Sarasota  Bay  a  high  blutf  extends  along  the 


150  FLORIDA. 

Gulf  coast,  and  to  those  wlio  wish  to  pitcli  their  tents  witli- 
in  sight  and  sound  of  the  Avaves  this  would  prove  a  desir- 
able spot. 

"  At  the  southern  extremity  of  Charlotte  Harbor  is  situ- 
ated Punta  Kassa.  The  improvements  consist  of  the  signal 
and  telegraph  station — a  large  wooden  structure — a  large 
storehouse,  a  superior  dock,  and  a  fish-ranclie.  This  is  the 
great  point  for  the  shipment  of  cattle  to  Key  West  and 
Cuba.  The  Caloosa  entrance,  leading  from  the  Gulf  to 
this  })oint,  is  comparatively  shallow,  affording  but  nine  feet 
of  water  at  low  tide  at  the  shallowest  points.  Leaving  the 
dock  and  proceeding  in  a  northerly  direction  for  three 
miles,  the  mouth  of  the  Caloosahatchie  River  opens  up. 
Unfortunately  for  the  navigation  of  this  stream,  there  is 
but  seven  feet  of  w^ater  in  the  channel  at  the  mouth,  at  low 
tide.  However,  this  depth  would  prove  ample  for  river- 
steamers,  and,  if  it  should  ever  be  required,  a  small  expendi- 
ture would  dee])en  the  channel  so  as  to  allow  of  the  passage 
of  any  vessel  that  could  enter  the  port.  Soon  after  entei*- 
ing  the  river  it  widens  out  and  becomes  a  beautiful  stream, 
from  one  and  a  quarter  to  three  miles  in  width,  for  a  dis- 
tance of  thirty  miles.  The  land  gradually  rises  from  the 
river  for  a  mile,  or  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  I  have  been  as- 
sured that  it  is  good,  productive  pine-land,  in  many  places 
mixed  Avith  shell  and  underlaid  by  clay  or  marl. 

"Fort  Myers,  distant  twenty-live  miles  from  Punta 
Rassa,  is  an  old  military  post,  which  was  abandoned  after 
the  last  Indian  war.  At  present  it  contains  a  population  of 
about  two  hundred  persons,  the  majority  of  whom  are  en- 
gaged in  cattle-raising.  Here  I  found  several  small  orange- 
groves,  and  the  trees  appeared  vigorous  and  healthy.  Large 
patches  of  bananas  flourished  with  a  luxuriance  unknown  in 
the  more  northern  portions  of  the  State.  But  what  grati- 
fied me  most  was  the  existence  of  eleven  cocoanut-trees, 
seventeen  years  old,  with  their  pendent  fruit  and  luxuriant 
leaves.  The  cocoanut  is  very  susceptible  to  the  influence 
of  frost,  and  the  presence  of  these  trees  convinced  me 
that  the  locality  had  not  suffered  from  it  for  seventeen 
years.  At  this  point  the  river  is  much  narrower  than  lower 
down  the  stream,  but  measures  one  mile  and  eleven  chains 
from  bank  to  bank. 

*'  By  the  course  of  the  river  the  Caloosahatchie  telegraph 


THE  GULF- COAST  AND  KEY  WEST. 


151 


station  and  crossing  is  distant  fifteen  miles.  From  the  fort 
to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  station  the  banks  of  the 
river  are  Ioav,  and  in  many  places  swamj)y.  Near  the  sta- 
tion the  banks  are  high  and  the  soil  excellent.  The  opera- 
tor pointed  ont  a  lemon-tree  near  the  house,  not  five  years 
old,  that  had  produced  aboixt  one  thousand  lemons.  A  few 
of  them  were  hanging  on  the  tree,  and  I  found  them  thin- 
skinned  and  very  juicy.  We  are  satisfied  that  the  time  is 
not  far  distant  when  the  lemons  of  Southern  Florida  will 
drive  the  diminutive,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  juiceless 
lemons  of  the  Mediterranean  from  the  American  markets. 

"  From  the  tele- 
graph station  to 
Fort  Donand,  dis- 
tant twenty  miles 
in  a  direct  line,  but 
more  than  twice  as 
many  by  the  course 
of  the  river,  the 
stream  is  narrow, 
varying  from  one 
hundred  and  fifty 
to  four  hundred 
feet  in  width,  but 
very  deep.  Be- 
tween these  points 
the  banks  of  the  riv- 
er are  high,  and,  in 
some  places,  almost 
perpendicular.  In 
many  of  the  reach- 
es, to  make  a  land- 
ing without  a  ladder  would  be  a  troublesome  undertaking. 
Along  the  river  rich  hammocks  exist,  clothed  with  a  growth 
of  small  live-oaks  and  cabbage-palms  ;  back  of  this  a  belt 
of  pine-timber,  and  then  the  open  prairie,  covered  with 
luxuriant  and  nutritive  grass.  From  our  own  observations, 
and  information  obtained,  the  belt  of  timber  on  the  line  ot 
the  river  is  narrow  in  its  Avhole  course.  The.  prairie  on 
each  side  of  the  stream  is  very  extensive,  and  dotted  with 
what  is  known  as 'islands' — ])atches  of  live-oak  and  ])alm, 
and  belts  of  i)ine  uf  limited  extent.      These  oases  of  foliage 


The  Cadbace-I'alm. 


152  FLORIDA. 

furnish  protection  to  cattle  and  herds.  The  grasses  in  tliis 
section  are  more  tender  and  succulent  than  in  the  northern 
and  western  portions  of  the  State. 

"For  the  production  of  sugar-cane  this  section  possesses 
an  advantage  over  ]\lississij)pi  and  Louisiana,  where  cane 
lias  to  be  cut  before  it  has  attained  its  full  saccharine  de- 
velopment, in  order  to  avoid  the  injurious  influence  of 
frosts.  In  Southern  Florida  the  cane  will  tassel  and  perfect 
itself." 

Key  West  was  reached  about  noon  on  the  day  after 
leaving  Cedar  Keys,  and  we  were  soon  enjoying  the  com- 
forts of  the  Russell  House,  a  large  and  well-kept  hotel. 
Afterward  we  rode  about  the  city  and  island,  visiting  the 
extensive  water-batteries,  the  park,  and  the  lighthouse. 
Everything  in  and  about  Key  West  is  stimnge,  foreign, 
and  interesting.  The  business  houses  and  ])ublic  buildings, 
the  dwellings,  the  gardens,  lawns,  flowers,  trees,  soil,  and 
vegetation,  the  appearance  of  the  peoi)le,  their  costumes, 
and  even  their  names,  all  are  so  un-American  and  sugges- 
tive of  a  foreign  clime,  that  it  is  diflicult  indeed  to  realize  it 
as  one  of  the  busy,  enterprising  cities  of  our  United  States. 
Nevertheless,  in  this  far-off,  isolated  community  of  Uncle 
Sam's  family  are  found  the  same  social  sentiments  and  the 
same  interests  as  among  all  American  citizens. 

Key  West  has  a  steady  business  of  exchange  and  sup- 
ply for  all  the  settlers  and  retail  dealers  of  that  section  of 
the  State.  It  is  not  of  the  intensely  active,  Chicago  sort  of 
business,  but  it  is  steady,  easy-going,  and  quiet,  as  if  it  were 
fully  established  and  entirely  safe  and  reliable — and  knew 
it.  Cigar-making  is  the  princij)al  industry,  exceeding  all 
other  interests,  employing  hundreds  of  people,  mostly  Cu- 
bans, occupying  numerous  large  establishments,  and  j)ay- 
ing  to  Uncle  Sam  an  annual  revenue  of  upward  of  tliree 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollars.  A  stroll  about  the 
place  at  once  makes  it  apparent  where  the  famous  Key 
West  cigars  come  from  ;  everywhere  are  tobacco-dealers 


THE  GULF-COAST  AND  KEY  WEST.  153 


and  cigar-niaiiufactories,  and  upward  of  thirty  jnillion  ci- 
gars Avere  manufactured  there  in  1880. 

The  United  States  has  erected  several  large,  suhstantial 
structures  here,  and  the  public  buildings  of  the  county  and 


154  FLORIDA. 

city,  also  the  cluirches — four — the  public  schools,  oj^era- 
house,  etc.,  are  all  creditable  structures.  The  Government 
dock,  barracks,  and  forts  are  all  large  and  costly,  this  being 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  im])ortant  points  in  the  defen- 
sive system  of  the  United  States.  An  unpleasant  feature 
is  the  imjwssibility  of  obtaining  cool  Avell  or  spring  water. 
Wells  can  not  be  sunk,  and  there  are  no  springs,  and  the 
inhabitants  are  obliged  to  dei:)end  on  rain-water  cisterns  or 
condensed  suppl3^  Turtling,  sponging,  mullet-fishing,  and 
shell-hunting  are  important  industries.  A  large  number  of 
men  are  engaged  in  wrecking  on  the  reefs.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  eight  thousand  five  hundred. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  SANFORD  GRANT  AND  ORANGE  COUNTY, 

TiiE.Sanford  grant  is  probably  the  most  extensive  laud 
enterprise  in  the  State,  and  is  very  likely  to  become  the 
center  of  a  most  flourishing  region,  unlike  anything  else  of 
the  kind  attempted  in  the  United  States  ;  for  nowhere  else 
is  there  any  tract  of  land  with  a  situation  so  peculiarly 
advantageous  for  commercial  entcr^^rises,  for  settlement, 
and  for  variety  of  products. 

In  1870  General  Henry  S.  Sanford,  of  Connecticut, 
made  an  extensive  tour  through  Florida,  closely  examining 
her  many  resoui*ces  and  most  advantageous  localities,  and 
was  so  impressed  with  the  tract  which  now  bears  his  name 
that  he  effected  a  purchase  of  it.  It  was  one  of  the  Span- 
ish grants,  so  fi'equent  wherever  Spanish  authority  existed, 
and  so  famous  for  uncertain  surveying  and  legal  comjjlica- 
tions. 

The  tract  embraces  twenty-two  square  miles,  compris- 
ing about  thirteen  thousand  acres,  nearly  all  of  good  qual- 
ity and  susceptible  of  profitable  cultivation.  It  lies  on  the 
south  shore  of  Lake  JVIonroe,  a  pretty  little  inland  sea, 
al)Out  ten  miles  long  by  five  miles  wide,  into  which  the 
u]iper  St.  John's  empties,  and  out  of  which  the  larger  St. 
Jolni's  flows.  It  is  practically  at  the  head  of  the  river  nav- 
igation— tliat  is,  for  the  larger  and  better  class  of  steamers. 
It  is  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles  from  Jacksonville  by 
water  route,  as  shown  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey, 
or  about  one   hundred  and   ten   miles   on    an  air-line.      The 


15G  FLO  HID  A. 

St.  Jolin's  River  extends  for  many  miles  above,  l)ut  is  a 
small,  shallow  stream,  very  narrow,  and  too  erooked  for 
description — a  winding  brook  in  a  flat  prairie-land,  exce])t 
where  it  widens  out  into  one  of  the  many  lakes  of  that 
region.  None  but  little  steamers  of  lightest  draught  at- 
tempt its  navigation,  and  even  these  can  ascend  but  a  short 
distance  above  Hanford. 

Having  carefully  considered,  as  I  have  said,  the  many 
advantages  which  he  believed  existed  there,  the  General 
completed  its  purchase,  and  at  once  commenced  improve- 
ments on  a  grand  scale,  clearing  off  the  dense  growth  of 
timber  from  a  large  acreage  on  the  lake-front  ;  cutting  out 
and  clearing  up  a  number  of  broad  avenues  ;  and  opening 
up  the  surrounding  country,  lie  also  built  a  fine  pier,  six 
hundred  feet  long,  in  the  lake  ;  erected  spacious  store- 
houses, and  an  extensive  saw-mill  and  machine-shop — this 
being  one  of  the  largest  in  the  State  ;  surveyed  and  located 
the  present  city  of  Sanford,  deservedly  bearing  his  name  ; 
erected  the  elegant  Sanford  Hotel,  standing  in  ample  and 
well-kept  and  neatly  fenced  grounds,  its  clean,  grassy  sur- 
face laid  out  with  walks  and  ornamented  with  flowers  and 
shrubs  ;  and  established  a  telegraphic  line  of  communica- 
tion with  the  outside  world. 

Everything,  except  the  characteristically  tropical  fruits, 
thrives  exceedingly  well  here,  especially  oranges,  lemons, 
grapes,  and  garden-vegetables  ;  also  live-stock.  The  fa- 
mous Speer  grove  of  oranges  is  only  one  and  a  half  mile 
south  of  Sanford.  It  contains  five  hundred  and  fifty  trees, 
standing  on  a  little  less  than  six  acres  of  land.  The  trees 
are  about  thirty-five  years  old,  and  yield  annually  from  four 
to  five  hundred  thousand  oranges.  Upward  of  six  hundred 
thousand  have  been  gathered  in  specially  favorable  seasons. 
The  crop  of  the  season  of  18S0-'81  was  sold  on  the  trees  for 
seventeen  dollars  per  thousand,  and  netted  the  owner  up- 
ward of  six  thousand  eight  hundi*ed  dollars.     An  object  of 


THE  SAKFORD   GRANT.  157 

special  interest  in  this  grove  is  a  lemon-tree  of  great  size 
that  produces  annually  from  twelve  to  twenty  thousand 
lemons  of  an  excellent  quality.  Other  noted  groves  of  the 
vicinity  are  those  of  Markham,  Ginn,  French,  and  others. 

Sanford  is  the  northei*n  terminus  of  the  Florida  Rail- 
road, now  extending  twenty-two  miles  to  Orlando,  the 
county-seat,  and  its  freight-houses,  car-shops,  and  line  pier 
are  completed.  The  pier,  built  of  palmetto  and  pitch  pine, 
is  not  excelled  by  any  in  the  whole  country.  From  one  to 
four  steamers — several  of  which  are  elegant  boats — arrive 
at  the  piers  daily. 

Several  enterprises  are  now  under  consideration  that  will 
add  greatly  to  the  importance  of  the  city.  Among  theni 
are  a  banking-house,  a  factory  for  curing  Spanish  moss  for 
upholstery  purposes,  and  an  establishment  for  canning,  cur- 
ing, packing,  and  preserving  the  delicate  fruits  of  this  re- 
gion. The  bank  is  much  needed,  and  the  other  schemes 
are  sure  to  be  of  great  benefit,  offering  a  near  and  trust- 
worthy market  for  all  fruit-crops. 

The  city  has  good  schools,  two  good  halls,  and  about 
thirty  well-established  commercial  houses,  and  transacted  a 
business  of  nearly  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  1880. 
The  Episcopalians  have  a  very  attractive  church-edifice, 
built  through  the  efforts  of  Mrs.  General  Sanford. 

There  is  a  demand  for  labor  in  Sanford,  especially 
skilled  labor,  such  as  that  of  carpenters  ;  in  fact,  one  of  the 
drawbacks  has  been  scarcity  of  mechanics — and  I  happen 
to  know  of  several  parties  who  are  now  delayed  in  the 
prosecution  of  their  intended  improvements  by  the  lack  of 
labor. 

From  the  beginning  of  his  enterprise,  this  has  been  a 
serious  trouble  to  the  General  in  his  improvements.  At 
first,  he  attempted  to  employ  colored  lal)or  ;  but  in  those 
days,  about  the  years  1870-'74,  the  "cracker"  natives  that 
lived  scattered  about  this  region  were  1>itterly  opposed  to 


158  FLORIDA. 

the  "  niggers,"  and  made  it  difficult  to  keep  that  class  of 
labor  ;  for  the  "  crackers  "  were  vicious  and  ignorant,  and 
law  was  ])ractically  an  unknown  and  repudiated  quantity. 
In  1871  the  General  decided  to  try  foreign  labor  on  the 
colonization  system,  sent  an  agent  to  U])sala,  in  Sweden, 
and  at  his  sole  expense  brought  over  a  colony  of  one  hun- 
dred of  these  people,  for  whom  he  erected  cabins,  giving  to 
each  a  homestead  of  five  acres  of  good  land.  This  answered 
very  well  for  a  time,  but  there  were  restless  and  turbulent 
members  in  the  party,  and  one  day,  incited  by  iip-country 
politicians,  some  of  them  deserted  and  went  to  seek  higher 
wages  at  Jacksonville.  By  great  efforts,  the  agent  of  the 
General  succeeded  in  inducing  them  to  return  to  their  homes 
and  vocations,  and  to-day,  after  seven  years,  they  are 
among  the  thriftiest,  happiest,  and  most  prosperous  people 
in  all  Florida.  It  is  an  incident  worthy  of  mention,  perhaps, 
that  one  of  them  a  short  time  ago  sold  his  little  property  for 
five  thousand  five  hundred  dollars,  for  the  purpose  of  enter- 
ing another  line  of  business.  Yet  he  had  less  than  nothing 
(for  he  owed  for  his  passage)  when  he  arrived  in  Sanford 
seven  years  since,  and  was  one  of  the  leading  opponents  of 
the  General's  scheme  for  their  benefit.  Recently  the  Gen- 
eral has  brought  over  more  Swedes,  and  also  some  Poles 
and  Italians.  All  are  busily  at  work,  and  apparently  con- 
tented. 

The  population  of  Sanford  and  the  closely  adjacent 
country  is  now  about  one  thousand,  and  the  healthiness  of 
the  region  is  sufficiently  demonstrated  by  the  fact  that  the 
number  of  deaths  in  1880  was^jye,  of  which  tico  were  from 
accidental  causes. 

Hunting  and  fishing  are  excellent  all  through  this  region. 
One  day  in  February  of  the  present  year,  Mr.  Knowlton,  a 
guest  at  the  hotel,  went  out  fishing  on  Lake  Monroe,  and  in 
the  afternoon  caught  one  hundred  and  forty  pounds  of  fine 
black  bass,  the  most  delicious  of  eating.     It  excited  no  par- 


THE  SANFOED   GRANT.  159 

ticular  comment,  for  others,  so  I  was  assured,  have  fre- 
quently beaten  that  score. 

Three  miles  from  Sanford  is  Belair,  the  special  grove  of 
the  General,  a  fine  estate  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
acres,  all  fenced  and  under  the  highest  cultivation.  Here 
are  thousands  of.  orange,  lemon,  and  lime  k'ees,  and  pine- 
apple-plants, including  nearly  every  known  variety  of  these, 
and  hundreds  of  other  foreign  and  native  tropical  plants, 
fruits,  and  shrubs.  A  visit  thither  is  very  interesting,  and 
a  cordial  welcome  is  extended  to  all. 

Indian-corn,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  strawber- 
ries, cabbages,  tomatoes,  watermelons,  and  all  garden  prod- 
ucts, yield  immense  crops  in  the  soil  around  Sanford. 
During  last  February — an  excejitionally  cold  month  for  the 
season — I  visited  a  number  of  gardens,  where  the  vege- 
tables were  growing  just  as  finely,  as  rapidly,  as  prolifically, 
and  with  as  little  requirement  of  labor,  as  in  any  soil,  any- 
where, at  any  season.  From  one  garden,  comprising  three 
quarters  of  an  acre,  four  crops  had  been  taken,  during  the 
preceding  twelve  months,  by  using  a  moderate  amount  of 
fertilizer.     Think  of  that — four  crops  in  one  year  I 

The  "  South  Florida  Journal,"  a  well-conducted  sheet, 
owned  and  edited  by  two  live  newspaper-men  from  Ohio, 
is  published  weekly  at  Sanford.  The  climate  is  pleasant, 
and  enjoyable  all  the  year  ;  there  is  no  month  that  is  spe- 
cially uncomfortable  by  reason  of  cold  or  heat  ;  nor  are 
mosquitoes  and  gnats  more  aggravating  than  wherever 
they  exist  in  other  regions. 

The  settlers  on  this  grant  are  mostly  I'ccent  arrivals,  who 
come  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  Besides  the  foreign 
colonies,  there  are  colonies  from  New  York,  Ohio,  and  Wis- 
consin. The  Hon.  Thurlow  AVeed,  General  (3.  II.  Babcoek, 
Senator  11.  B.  Anthony,  and  several  other  prominently 
known  gentlemen,  own  fine  groves  on  the  grant. 

General  Sanford  lives  much  abroad,  and  the  management 


IGO  FLORIDA. 

of  liis  vast  estate,  with  its  multiplied  interests,  devolves 
upon  the  resident  agent,  Mr.  J.  E.  Ingrahani,  a  native  of 
Milwaukee,  Wisconsin.  It  is  not  many  years  since  Mr.  In- 
graham  came  to  Florida  in  what  Avas  supposed  to  be  the 
final  stage  of  consumption  ;  yet  no  one,  to  see  him  now, 
would  supjiose  that  he  had  not  always  been  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  vigorous  health.  He  is  also  the  President  of  the 
South  Florida  Railroad. 

Another  energetic  and  enterprising  citizen  of  Sanford, 
to  whom  the  people  of  the  city  and  of  the  grant — in  fact, 
of  all  Orange  County — are  much  indebted,  is  Mr.  George 
H.  Sawyer,  of  Massachusetts  (a  resident  of  Sanford  since 
1875),  proprietor  of  the  "  City  Hotel "  and  owner  of  one  of 
the  finest  gardens  in  the  State.  This  garden  alone,  demon- 
strating as  it  does  the  feasibility  of  a  first-rate  vegetable- 
garden  in  South  Florida,  entitles  him  to  special  mention. 
During  the  entire  winter  his  hotel  tables  are  loaded  with 
the  best  of  squashes,  cabbages,  celery,  cauliflower,  peas, 
string-beans,  tomatoes,  potatoes,  radishes,  beets,  etc.,  daily 
culled  from  the  garden.  His  efforts  in  displaying  Orange 
County  resources  at  the  recent  State  Fair  in  Jacksonville 
(season  of  1880-'81)  had  great  effect  in  directing  thither 
the  tide  of  immigration  that  is  now  flowing  in  ;  and  he  is 
a  prominent  mover  in  all  local  enterprises. 

On  the  22d  of  February,  1881,  a  county  fair  was  held  at 
Sanford,  which  was  peculiarly  interesting  as  a  display  of 
what  this  portion  of  Florida  can  do  in  the  way  of  midwin- 
ter products.  Instead  of  desci'ibing  it  myself,  I  will  quote 
some  passages  from  a  report  prepared  l)y  Dr.  J.  L.  Richard- 
son, who  spent  the  winter  in  Orange  County,  for  the  Mount 
Stei'ling  (Kentucky)  "  Democrat."     lie  says  : 

"This  exhibition  Avas  projected  as  a  county  fair,  to  ex- 
hibit to  the  country  the  actual  products  of  Orange  County, 
in  the  midst  of  the  severest  and  most  protracted  winter  the 
States  have  ever  experienced,  and  2:)lace  upon  record  such 


THE  8ARF0ED    GRANT.  161 

facts  as  demonstrate  the  possibilities  of  cheap,  comfortable, 
and  profitable  living. 

"  On  entering  the  grounds,  the  first  thing  that  attract- 
ed attention  was  the  line  of  coops  containing  poultry  in 
their  glossy  and  peculiar  costumes.  They  were  all  unex- 
ceptionable specimens  of  their  respective  species,  and  their 
handsome  and  healthful  appearance  gives  evidence  of  cli- 
matic adaptation.  Considering  the  domestic  convenience 
and  the  aggregate  value  of  this  department,  it  deserves  a 
large  share  of  the  public  attention.  The  geese  were  worthy 
of  notice  for  their  size  and  fine  development.  Their  feath- 
ers were  evidently  finer,  although,  perha})S,  not  afl^ording  so 
large  a  yield  as  in  a  northern  climate.  The  turkeys,  being 
in  their  native  latitude,  were  enabled  to  entertain  their  ad- 
mirers with  unsurpassed  domestic  accomplishments,  Avhile 
the  Muscovy  ducks  were  equal  to  the  best  of  their  kind. 
The  fantail  pigeons  were  beautifully  attractive,  and  showed 
that  South  Florida  might  become  quite  as  noted  and  finan- 
cially valuable  in  her  dove-cotes  as  old  Spain  herself. 

"The  sugar-cane  and  its  products,  as  exhibited  by  Mr.  G. 
W.  Crawford,  of  his  own  growth  and  manufacture,  Avere  of  a 
superior  quality,  and  develops  a  very  interesting  and  impor- 
tant department  of  industry.  Mr.  Crawford,  who  lives  a  few 
miles  south  of  Orlando,  is  one  of  the  most  enterprising  and 
successful  farmers  in  Orange  County,  and  besides  the  \yvQ- 
ceding  he  exhibited  green  peas,  turnips,  tropical  yams,  sweet- 
potatoes,  corn,  cabbages,  etc.,  all  of  mammoth  growth.  This 
tropical  yam  produces  enormous  tubers  of  a  black  color, 
and  equal  to  the  Irish  potato  in  every  respect,  but  of  finer 
flavor.  It  grows  rapidly  from  any  small  section  of  the  root, 
and  continues  to  grow  as  long  as  it  is  in  the  ground, 

"  There  were  turnii>s  measuring  three  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  cabbages  weighing  from  twelve  to  fifteen  pounds, 
and  radishes  as  much  as  nine  pounds,  solid  and  brittle.  The 
liean  lu.i'Airians,  or  Te-o-sin-te — grass  of  the  gods — exhibit- 
ed by  Dr.  Kenworthy,  is  eight  or  nine  feet  long,  and  re- 
seinl)les  corn-fodder,  and  is  said  to  be  very  prolific,  yield- 
ing from  fifty  to  one  hundred  tons  per  acre.  Heads  of  let- 
tuce that  would  cover  a  diuner-])late  looked  fresh  and  crisp  ; 
Avhile  onions,  leeks,  kale,  parsnips,  etc.,  lay  around  in  rich 
profusion.  Potatoes  ])lanted  on  Christmas-day  were  of  fine 
size  for  table  use,  and  altogether  it  would  be  difiicult  to  im- 


102  iLOlUDA. 

agine  a  more  splendid  and  attractive  sliow  of  garden-vege- 
tables, maturing  in  the  open  garden  while  all  the  other 
States  lay  congealed  in  the  icy  chains  of  Avinter.  The  cau- 
liflowers raised  near  Sanford,  for  size  and  beauty,  were  ob- 
jects of  surprise  ;  some  of  the  bloom  measured  fifteen  inches 
in  diameter,  being  compact  and  solid.  The  pineapples  were 
in  every  stage  of  development,  while  the  matured  ones 
were  large  and  attractive.  The  cassava,  with  its  products 
of  beautiful  starch  and  nutritious  tapioca  manufactured  in 
the  county,  demand  especial  notice  as  articles  of  utility  and 
profitable  manufacture.  The  display  of  arrow-root  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  long  was  sufficient  evidence  that 
this  part  of  Florida  will  produce  it  in  as  tine  perfection  as 
Bermuda.  The  root  is  tapering  at  each  end — beautifully 
white,  and  jointed  like  a  bamboo. 

"  Tomatoes  hanging  on  vines  recently  dug  uj)  intruded 
their  plump  and  rosy  cheeks  upon  your  attention.  There 
were  also  pepper-plants  Avith  mature  fruit  upon  them  grown 
without  protection,  and  the  tender  banana  with  its  purj)le 
and  peculiar  bloom.  All  the  members  of  the  citrus  family 
were  present,  with  their  aprons  full  of  the  yellow  and  golden 
fruits  just  gathered  from  the  grove.  The  Ja])an  plum  and 
fine  varieties  of  strawberries  were  well  represented.  These 
facts  are  only  stated  in  justice  to  show  that  the  inclemency 
of  the^y«s^  winter — for  it  is  past  liere — has  not  materially 
interrupted  the  delicate  fruit  and  vegetable  croj)  of  Orange 
County.  Cotton  and  tobacco  Avere  also  on  exhibition,  both 
of  which  can  be  raised  on  some  lands  profitably, 

"  There  was  quite  a  varied  and  handsome  display  in  the 
floral  and  botanical  departments,  embracing  divers  sj^eci- 
mens  of  the  coleus,  ferns,  Brazilian  plants,  pampas-grass, 
jaunty  jasmines,  etc." 

Beginning  at  Sanford,  and  bringing  to  it  the  products 
of  the  best  portion  of  Orange  County,  the  South  Florida 
Railroad  runs  southwest  twenty-two  miles  to  Orlando,  the 
county-seat.  The  first  spadeful  of  earth  in  the  grading  of 
the  line  was  turned  by  General  Grant,  on  the  10th  of  Janu- 
ary, 1889  ;  and  the  road  has  the  further  distinction  of  being 
the  only  "newspaper  railroad"  in  the  world — it  Avas  built 
and  is  OAvned  by  the  proprietors  of  the  "  Boston  Herald," 


THE  SAXFORD   GRAXT.    ^  163 

who  conceived  the  plan  and  carried  it  out  with  journalistic 
Ijromptitude  and  vigor.  It  is  a  narrow-gauge  road  (three 
feet  between  the  rails),  is  thoroughly  well  constructed  and 
equipped,  and  is  the  pioneer  in  what  is  destined  to  be  a 
great  railway  system  Av'hen  present  plans  are  perfected. 

The  first  station  after  leaving  Sanford  (three  miles  out) 
is  Belair,  the  site  of  General  Sanford's  famous  grove,  al- 
ready described.  Two  miles  beyond  is  Bent's,  a  place  where 
a  number  of  young  orange-groves  are  about  to  come  into 
bearing ;  and  two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  Bent's  is  Sol- 
dier Creek.  Longwood  station  is  nine  and  a  half  miles 
from  Sanford  ;  Snow's  is  three  miles  farther  ;  and  three 
miles  farther  still  is  Maitland,  the  most  important  point 
on  this  portion  of  the  line.  Maitland  is  a  scattered  lit- 
tle hamlet,  comprising  four  or  five  business  houses,  and 
enjoys  the  distinction  of  possessing  the  finest  public  hall 
in  the  State  (Packwood  Hall).  Here  also  is  a  large  ho- 
tel, which  is  open  during  the  winter  season.  The  adja- 
cent region  consists  of  what  is  called  high  pine-land,  in- 
terspersed with  occasional  tracts  of  rich  hammock,  and  is 
dotted  with  numerous  small  lakes,  some  of  which  are  per- 
fect geins  of  landscape  beauty,  while  all  abound  in  fish. 
In  the  neighborhood  are  many  improved  homes  and  large 
orange-groves.  Among  the  latter  is  one  owned  by  Bishop 
II.  B.  Whi])ple,  of  the  Diocese  of  Minnesota  ;  and  a  very 
fine  one,  seen  on  the  left  from  the  cars,  is  the  property  of 
Mr.  B.  R.  Swoope,  superintendent  and  general  manager  of 
the  railroad.  One  of  the  pleasantest  places  in  the  vicinity 
is  that  of  ^Ir.  George  II.  Packwood,  crowning  a  crest  which 
slopes  up  gently  from  the  shore  of  the  lovely  Lake  Sybolia. 
He  has  a  laro^e  orange-o-rove  and  one  of  the  most  extensive 
grape-arbors  in  the  State,  together  with  pineapples  and 
other  semi-tropical  fruits. 

The  next  station  south  of  Maitland  (two  miles  distant) 
is  Osceola.     This  also  is  a  })retty  region  of  high  pine-lands, 


1G4  FLORIDA. 

comprising  many  fine  orange-groves,  and  settled  for  the 
most  part  by  Northern  people.  Up  to  this  point  the  coun- 
try traversed  is  level  or  but  slightly  undulating,  with  far- 
eitretching  pine-woods,  and  a  light,  sandy  soil.  Near  Or- 
lando the  character  of  the  country  changes,  the  surface 
becomes  more  rolling  and  hilly,  the  soil  is  darker  and  richer, 
the  lakes  are  suri'ounded  by  what  in  this  section  are  called 
"  bluffs,"  and  the  scenery  is  more  picturesque  and  pleasing. 
Here  is  the  high  table  land  of  Central  Florida,  the  natural 
water-shed — for  an  examination  of  the  map  will  show  the 
streams  flowing  east,  west,  north,  and  south  from  this  high 
plateau. 

Two  miles  this  side  of  Oi'lando  (twenty  miles  from  San- 
ford)  is  Interlaken,  foi'merly  Wilcox,  a  place  which  is 
growing  with  great  rapidity,  and  which  seems  destined  to 
become  the  home  of  an  unusually  estimable  class  of  resi- 
dents, many  of  them  of  the  cultivated  and  thrifty  New 
England  type.  Among  the  settlers  here  are  such  men  as 
ex-Governor  Pilsbury,  of  Maine,  and  the  Hon.  John  G. 
Sinclair,  of  New  Hampshire,  the  latter  of  whom  has  thrown 
himself  with  ardor  into  the  development  of  the  place,  and 
now  has,  besides  a  growing  orange-grove,  a  cassava  starch- 
factory,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  cotton-gin.  Here,  also,  is  the 
home  ("  Waverley  Hall  ")  of  Major  M.  R.  Marks,  one  of  the 
most  famous  characters  of  this  region,  and  in  fact  one  of 
the  best-known  men  in  the  entire  State — for  every  one  who 
does  not  know  him  personally  knows  some  of  the  innumer- 
able anecdotes  about  him.  Originally  from  Georgia,  he 
has  lived  in  Florida  for  nearly  twenty  years,  has  contributed 
greatly  to  the  development  of  Orange  County,  is  considered 
perfect  authority  on  land-values,  and  is  always  loaded  with 
"  a  big  bargain."  Nearly  all  the  real-estate  transactions  of 
the  entire  region  are  consummated  through  him,  or  through 
Mr.  Sinclair,  who  also  does  an  extensive  business  as  a  land- 
agent.     Some  of  the  prettiest  lakes  in  the  State  surround 


THE  SAXFOr.D    GRAXT.  1G5 

Interlakcn  on  nearly  all  sides,  and  there  is  one  connected 
chain  upon  -which  a  boat-ride  of  at  least  twenty  miles  can 
be  enjoyed.  The  scenery  of  these  lakes  is  exquisite,  and 
one  is  constantly  tempted  to  exclaim,  "  What,  a  lovely  place 
that  is,  on  that  knoll,  for  a  home  !  "  A  good  hotel  here 
would  be  sure  to  attract  many  visitors,  and  there  is  a  proba- 
bility that  such  a  one  will  be  erected  soon. 

Orlando,  the  county-seat,  is  an  old  place,  typical  of  the 
South,  a  genuine  native  community  of  the  kind  that  the 
traveler  finds  in  all  sections  of  the  State,  almost  always 
located  in  a  beautiful,  bountiful  region,  where  Xature  has 
done  everything  to  aid  and  please,  and  Avhere  man  seems 
indisposed  to  do  anything.  The  "  boom  "  that  has  enlivened 
every  other  spot  in  Orange  County  seems  to  have  left  Or- 
lando comparatively  untouched  ;  yet  there  is  no  other  local- 
ity that  offers  greater  attractions,  for  the  soil  is  exception- 
ally fertile  and  productive,  plenty  of  timber  is  convenient, 
and  the  surrounding  country,  studded  with  little  lakes,  is 
remarkably  pleasing.  A  court-house  and  a  jail  are  among 
the  most  conspicuous  features  of  the  place,  but  neither  these 
nor  the  residences  are  kept  in  that  trim  and  neat  condition 
that  in  Florida,  as  elsewhere,  marks  the  presence  of  the 
Northern  settler.  The  hotel  is  charmingly  located  in  the 
midst  of  an  orange-grove  ;  and  the  entire  region,  on  ac- 
count of  its  elevation,  perhaps,  enjoys  a  remarkable  exemp- 
tion from  mosquitoes,  sand-flies,  and  the  other  insect-pests. 
The  "Orange  County  Reporter"  is  ])ublished  here  by  an 
energetic  Western  man,  and  is  one  of  the  best  local  papers 
in  the  State. 

For  the  present,  the  South  Florida  Railroad  ends  at  Or- 
lando, but  this  is  only  temporary,  and  preparations  are  be- 
ing made  for  its  extension  southwest.  Its  ultimate  destina- 
tion is  Charlotte  Harbor,  on  the  Gulf-coast,  of  which  a  de- 
scription is  given  in  a  previous  chapter.  Several  l)ranch 
lines  are  also  projected,   and  the  one  to  Lake  Tohopeka- 


lOG  FLORIDA. 

liga  will  probably  be  completed  by  tbe  time  this  book  ap- 
pears, opening  up  a  very  rich  and  attractive  section. 

Okaxge  County,  which  comprises  all  the  above-men- 
tioned places,  and  which  extends  westward  to  the  beautiful 
Lake  P]ustis  region  described  in  another  chapter,  is  better 
known  than  any  other  portion  of  the  interior  of  the  State, 
and  has  succeeded  in  securing  a  larger  share  of  the  immi- 
gration that  has  lately  set  in  from  the  North  and  West. 
More  activity  and  public  spirit  are  exhibited  there  than 
elsewhere,  and  more  pains  are  taken  to  collect  and  dissemi- 
nate information  as  to  its  resources  and  advantages.  Part- 
ly for  these  reasons,  and  partly  because  it  is  a  typical  coun- 
ty of  the  central  portion  of  South  Florida,  I  shall  quote 
somewhat  extensively  from  an  article  descriptive  of  its  re- 
sources and  advantages,  which  appeared  recently  in  the 
"  Orange  County  Reporter,"  and  which  is  understood  to 
have  been  Avritten  jointly  by  Major  Marks  and  the  Hon. 
John  G.  Sinclair  : 

"  Orange  County  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Peninsula 
of  Florida,  and  on  the  highlands  of  the  narrowest  portion 
of  the  peninsxda.  From  this  county  flow  streams  to  the 
north,  south,  east,  and  west,  showing  at  a  glance  that  it  is 
the  highest  region  lying  between  the  ocean  and  the  Gulf. 
It  is  thus  exposed  to  both  east  and  west  winds,  which  ef- 
fectually drive  away  malaria.  Except  in  the  low  and  heav- 
ily timbered  lands  on  lakes  and  rivers,  fevers  are  almost 
unknown.  There  are  no  prevailing  diseases  common  to 
this  portion  of  the  State  ;  and,  semi-tropical  as  it  is,  no  case 
of  yellow  fever  or  cholera  has  ever  been  known  here.  Even 
the  vaunted  health  resorts  of  Colorado  show  a  death-rate 
among  the  resident  population  of  double  that  of  Orange 
County  ;  Avhile,  of  the  invalid  and  tourist  class,  the  death- 
rate  in  that  much-advertised  region  is  fully  ten  times  as 
great  as  among  the  same  class  here.  The  late  Government 
census  shows  but  thirty-one  deaths  in  a  population  of  G,G18 
in  Orange  County  for  the  year  ending  June  1,  1880.  This 
includes  all  classes  and  all  causes.     This  immunity  from 


ORANGE  COUNTY.  167 

siclcness  is  due  first  to  pure  water,  and  secondly  to  the  pre- 
vailing winds  which  carry  away  all  malarial  poisons,  and  at 
the  same  time  modify  the  temperature  to  so  great  an  ex- 
tent, during  both  summer  and  winter  months.  A  record 
kept  by  a  careful  observer,  for  the  past  year,  shows  that 
the  highest  point  recorded  by  the  mercury  last  summer  was 
97^  ;  the  lowest  the  present  winter  34° — a  less  variation  of 
temperature  in  a  whole  year  than  is  frequently  experienced 
in  higher  latitudes  in  twenty-four  hom*s.  The  residents  of 
Orange  County  are  free  from  those  sudden  climatic  changes 
which  are  so  severe  a  tax  upon  the  vital  energies  of  residents 
of  the  Northern  States.  Colds  are  therefore  rare  and  never 
severe,  and  catarrh  among  old  residents  is  rarely  found. 

"  Orange  County  lies  on  the  west  side  of  the  St.  John's 
River,  that  stream  forming  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  coun- 
ty. It  contains  about  sixty-one  Congressional  townships. 
Its  northern  extremity  touches  Lake  George  ;  its  south- 
ern reaches  and  includes  Lake  Tahopekaliga.  Lying  vipon 
both  the  eastern  and  western  borders  are  chains  of  large 
lakes  ;  the  largest,  Lake  Apopka,  upon  the  west,  covering 
an  area  of  fifty-six  square  miles.  The  interior  is  thickly 
dotted  with  lakes  of  smaller  size,  ranging  from  an  acre  to  a 
thousand  acres  in  extent.  The  water  in  these  lakes  is  pure 
and  soft.  The  bottoms  and  shores  are  sandy  and  hard.  In 
all  of  them  fish  abound,  and  the  angler  can  find  plenty  of 
sport.  Upon  the  high  pine-lands  surrounding  these  little 
lakes,  beautiful  building-sites  can  be  found,  where  a  home 
can  be  made  and  embellished  with  all  the  shrubs  and  flowers 
that  can  be  grown  in  a  semi-tropical  region.  It  is  here  that 
semi-tropical  fruits  flourish  and  reach  a  degree  of  develop- 
ment not  surpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Oranges, 
lemons,  limes,  citrons,  giiavas,  figs,  bananas,  and  pineapples 
reach  perfection  here,  and  their  culture,  for  either  profit  or 
personal  gratification,  is  attended  with  the  most  satisfactory 
results.  .  .  .  Strawberries  and  grapes  also  do  well.  The 
former  fruit  begins  ripening  in  January  and  continues  until 
May.  AVith  the  full  development  of  the  resources  of  the 
county,  the  culture  of  this  fruit  will  receive  attention.  It 
ripens  at  a  season  of  the  year  when  there  is  little  danger  of 
loss  in  transportation,  and  when  people  in  tlie  larger  cities 
in  the  Nort  h  would  be  willing  to  j^ay  exorbitant  prices  for 
the  fresh  fruit.  .  .  . 
8 


168  FLORIDA. 

"  Nine  tenths  of  the  failures  in  orange-culture  that  have 
occurred  up  to  this  date  are  due  to  indolence  and  misman- 
agement. Intelligent  industry  has  always  been  rewarded 
with  success.  The  orange  has  natural  enemies  in  the  scale 
and  other  insects,  but  good  care  will  overcome  all  of  these. 
The  only  enemy  to  the  citrus  family  that  can  not  be  suc- 
cessfully combated  by  man  is  the  frost,  and  it  is  here  that 
Orange  County  has  an  advantage  over  any  region  lying  to 
the  north  of  us.  Its  elevated  position  and  numerous  lakes 
afford  a  protection  from  frosts  that,  in  spite  of  all  claims 
to  the  contrary,  is  not  possessed  by  any  portion  of  the 
State  north  of  Lake  George.  The  recent  cold  weather — 
the  coldest  with  one  exception  in  forty-eight  years,  and  in 
some  localities  the  coldest  since  1833 — did  not  damage  the 
trees  or  fruit  in  Orange  County.  This  statement  is  made 
in  the  teeth  of  all  contrary  assertions,  and  in  proof  of  the 
claim  we  invite  an  inspection  of  the  groves  of  Orange 
County  just  at  this  time,  before  there  has  been  time  for 
trees  to  recover  from  the  effects  of  the  cold.  AVe  do  not 
claim  that  we  had  no  frost.  It  is  not  even  pretended  that 
no  injury  was  done  in  this  county.  Tender  vegetables  in 
the  garden  were  killed  or  damaged,  and  those  who  were 
engaged  in  vegetable  -  gardening  were  subjected  to  loss. 
But  neither  trees  nor  fruit  w^ere  injured,  with  the  exception 
of  the  guavas  in  a  few  exposed  situations,  as  there  is  abun- 
dant evidence  here  to  show,  .  .  . 

"  Cotton,  sugar,  and  rice  can  be  successfully  and  profit- 
ably grown  upon  a  large  portion  of  the  lands  of  Orange 
County.  Where  an  attempt  has  been  made,  upland  rice 
has  proved  a  successful  crop  on  the  high  pine-lands.  The 
cotton-crop  of  the  present  year  has  in  most  cases  proved  a 
profitable  one,  and  the  sugar  and  sirup  crop,  just  now 
being  marketed,  has  amply  repaid  all  effort.  The  sugar- 
crop  has  received  but  little  attention  for  years,  owing  to 
the  difficulties  attending  the  marketing  of  the  product,  and 
the  consequent  low  prices  offered  by  local  buyers.  The 
present  year  shows  a  little  im2:)rovement  in  prices,  and 
there  is  reason  to  believe  that  coming  years  will  give  a 
marked  improvement  in  this  respect.  Upon  the  margins 
of  these  beautiful  lakes  there  are  large  areas  of  land  adapt- 
ed, both  by  chai'acter  and  situation,  to  the  production  of 
sugar.     And   it  is  a  significant  and  suggestive   fact  that 


ORANGE  COUNTY.  169 

while  envious  portions  of  the  State  and  the  South  are 
claiming  that  old  Orange  County  was  as  severely  injured 
by  the  late  cold  weather  as  any  other  region,  our  planters 
are  now,  three  weeks  after  the  cold  wave,  engaged  in 
gi'inding  cane  and  making  sugar,  and  the  quality  is  not 
affected.  .  .  . 

"  Winter  gardening  will  pay  a  larger  per  cent,  on  the 
capital  and  labor  invested  than  the  most  successful  agri- 
cultural operations  in  the  North.  It  is  not  claimed  that  a 
larger  yield  per  acre  can  be  secured  in  Florida  than  in  the 
fertile  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  But  a  rea- 
sonably good  crop  can  be  grown  here  at  a  season  of  the 
year  when  the  farmers  of  the  Xorth  are  ice-bound  and  can 
raise  nothing.  A  bushel  of  tomatoes  grown  in  the  North 
will  net  the  producer  one  dollar.  The  crop  comes  into 
market  just  at  a  time  when  every  farmer  and  gardener 
has  produce  to  sell.  The  market  is  soon  overdone,  and  the 
price  gets  so  low  that  it  will  not  pay  for  picking  and  mar- 
keting. One  dollar  per  bushel  for  the  season  would  be  a 
good  average  price.  A  bushel  of  tomatoes  grown  in  Flor- 
ida and  put  into  the  New  York  market  from  December  to 
February,  will  frequently  net  the  grower  ten  dollars.  Five 
dollars  could  always  be  depended  upon,  and  thus  the  Flor- 
ida truck-grower  has  an  advantage  over  his  Northern  com- 
petitor in  being  able  to  get  his  products  into  market  at  a 
season  of  the  year  when  he  can  find  a  ready  sale  at  fancy 
prices,  instead  of  seeing  them  go  begging  in  an  overstocked 
market  at  a  starvation  price.  The  fruit-growing  industry 
will  always  be  the  chief  attraction  of  this  region.  But, 
while  the  fruit-grower  is  waiting  for  his  trees  to  come  into 
bearing,  he  must  manage  to  live.  To  do  this  he  can  engage 
in  market-gardening,  sugar-growing,  or  raising  cassava  for 
the  starch-mills,  and  thus  secure  a  fair  income  and  a  good 
living  from  the  start.  Any  of  these  he  can  do  without  in 
any  way  interfering  with  the  culture  of  his  grove  ;  and, 
indeed,  while  the  trees  are  small,  vegetables  can  be  grown 
among  them  to  advantage.  The  cost  of  living  is  light. 
Fuel  costs  nothing,  and  the  family  clothing  will  not  exceed 
one  half  what  is  necessary  in  the  North.  .  .  , 

"Orange  County  is  to-day  attracting  more  attention  and 
increasing  faster  in  population  than  any  other  county  in  the 
State.     Its  rolling,  high  pine-lands,  lying  along  the  heights 


170  FLORIDA. 

whicli  divide  the  waters  of  the  ocean  and  the  Gulf,  ai*e  un- 
doubtedly the  best  drained  and  as  well  adapted  to  the  cult- 
ure of  the  orange  and  all  semi-tropicq,l  fruits  as  any  in  the 
State,  and  to  these  advantages  in  this  respect  may  be  added 
absolute  exemption  from  damaging  frost.  Here,  too,  the 
water  is  as  pure  and  as  sweet  as  in  New  England,  and  there 
is  entire  exemption  from  fever  and  ague  and  other  mala- 
rious diseases  found  in  lower  sections  of  the  State.  From 
September  to  April  the  climate  is  much  like  the  finest 
Indian-summer  days  of  the  North,  while  from  April  to 
September  the  mercury  rarely  registers  more  than  90°. 
Situated  on  the  narrow  part  of  the  peninsula,  alternate 
breezes  from  the  Gulf  and  the  ocean  modify  the  heat  and 
render  the  nights  cool  and  comfortable  ;  and  the  universal 
expression  of  people  settled  hei'e  from  the  North  and  West 
is,  that  while  the  heat  is  more  uniform  and  longer  contin- 
ued, it  never  reaches  the  extreme  heat  of  the  places  from 
which  they  came,  and  that  their  summers  spent  here  have, 
on  the  whole,  been  quite  as  comfortable  as  those  of  their 
former  homes.  National  official  statistics  show  that  the 
death-rate  of  the  State  of  Florida  is  two  and  three  fourths 
per  cent.,  while  that  of  New  Hampshire  is  three  per  cent., 
and  in  other  New  England  States  and  in  the  West  the  per- 
centage is  still  larger.  In  Orange  County,  in  a  population 
of  upward  of  seven  thousand,  the  late  census  retui'ns  show 
only  thirty-one  deaths  for  the  year  ending  June  1,  1880. 

"  How  does  the  summer  heat  affect  a  Northern  man  ?  is  a 
question  frequently  asked.  The  best  reply  is  the  fact  that 
sunstroke  is  unknown,  and  that  with  reasonable  precautions 
there  is  no  more  inconvenience  from  heat  here  than  in  the 
North.  The  writer  came  from  the  North  last  May,  just  at 
the  unfavorable  time  of  the  year.  For  the  first  time  in  five 
years  he  was  able  to  follow  his  business  through  the  entire 
summer  ;  and  was  free  from  that  general  letting  down  of 
the  nervous  forces  experienced  for  years  while  following 
his  profession  in  Iowa. 

"  The  highest  point  recorded  by  the  mercury  last  summer 
was  97°  ;  the  lowest  reached  the  present  winter — and  this 
has  been  the  coldest  since  1857,  and  with  one  exception 
since  1835 — is  34°,  showing  a  total  annual  range  of  03°. 
In  the  boasted  health-resorts  of  Colorado  we  have  expe- 
rienced a  greater  variation  than  this  within   twenty-four 


ORANGE  COUNTY.  171 

hours.  It  is  its  equable  temperature  and  absolute  freedom 
from  sudden  changes  that  make  South  Florida  so  desirable 
a  region  for  people  suffering  with  throat  and  lung  affections 
and  catarrh.  If  the  latter  disease  is  curable,  a  residence 
here  will  effect  a  cure. 

"  An  idea  prevalent,  particularly  in  the  North,  is  that  our 
State  swarms  with  reptile  and  insect  life,  while  the  fact  is 
that  in  this  locality  at  least  we  are  as  exempt  from  both  as 
any  in  the  country.  The  writer  of  this  article  has  yet  to 
see  his  first  rattlesnake  or  moccasin,  though  he  has  spent 
much  time  in  hunting  and  fishing,  and  traversing  the  for- 
ests, for  the  last  year. 

"  We  have  mosquitoes  here,  but  neither  so  numerous  nor 
troublesome  as  in  the  city  of  Boston.  Sand-flies  abound  in 
some  sections  of  the  State,  but  not  here.  Our  land  is  what 
is  called  high  pine,  dotted  with  hundreds  of  clear-water 
lakes,  upon  the  shores  of  which  are  the  finest  orange  and 
fruit  lands  in  the  world  ;  not  only  the  orange,  but  the  lem- 
on, lime,  banana,  pineapple,  grape,  guava,  citron,  fig,  straw- 
berry, and  all  semi-tropical  fruits  can  be  produced  in  abun- 
dance and  with  large  profit.  Turnips,  squashes,  beets,  cu- 
cumbers, cabbages,  onions,  and  all  vegetables  are  raised 
quite  as  easily  here  as  elsewhere,  and  find  ready  sale  in 
Northern  markets  at  remunerative  prices.  Cotton,  sugar- 
cane, tobacco,  cassava,  arrow-root,  etc.,  can  be  profitably 
raised.  Transportation  to  and  from  the  cities  of  New  York 
and  Boston  is  cheaper  from  this  point  than  from  either  of 
those  cities  to  the  interior  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  or 
Vermont.  For  instance,  the  freight  on  oranges  per  box, 
from  Sanford  to  Boston,  is  sixty-five  cents  ;  barrels  of 
starch,  eighty  cents  per  barrel,  and  other  merchandise  pro- 
portionately low.  The  St.  John's  River,  navigable  by  large 
steamers  with  which  we  are  connected  by  twenty  miles  of 
rail,  opens  to  us,  by  water  communication  and  cheapest 
rates  of  transportation,  the  best  markets  of  the  world. 

"  Much  valuable  land  is  now  open  to  the  actual  settler, 
and  may  be  had  by  others  from  Government  price,  at  points 
remote  from  transportation,  to  five,  ten,  twenty,  thirty,  and 
up  to  one  hundred  dollars  or  more  per  acre  at  points  imme- 
diately on  the  railroads,  or  lakes  connecting  with  the  rail. 
Ten  acres  of  land  is  amply  sufiicient  for  a  grove  of  five 
hundred  trees.     Here  as  elsewhere  there  is  more  danger  of 


172  FLOEIDA. 

cultivating  too  much  than  too  little  land,  and  it  is  gener- 
ally bettei*  to  buy  five  acres  near  transportation  than  fifty 
acres  more  remote,  for  the  purpose  of  fruit-growing,  on 
account  of  the  trouble,  expense,  and  damage  to  fruit  by 
teaming. 

"  We  are  asked  if  capital  can  be  profitably  invested 
here.  There  are  virgin  forests  of  the  finest  pine,  cedar, 
cypress,  and  oak  in  the  Union  for  sale  at  low  prices.  The 
rapid  disappearance  of  that  class  of  timber  in  the  Xorth 
and  West,  and  the  immense  local  demand  for  building  and 
fencing — for  here  we  have  no  stone  for  fencing — and  the 
material  for  boxes  for  fruit  and  vegetables  Avill  give  a  sure 
and  more  rapid  advance  to  these  timber-lands  than  has 
been  witnessed  in  any  State  in  the  Union.  Here,  too, 
money  can  be  loaned  on  security  as  safe  as  United  States 
bonds,  at  from  ten  to  fifteen  per  cent,  per  annum.  Here, 
too,  are  gigantic  unimproved  water-powers,  surrounded  by 
the  finest  cotton-growing  lands  in  the  Union.  We  need 
tanneries,  boot  and  shoe  and  furniture  manufactories,  car- 
riage-builders, etc, 

"  The  State  laws  exempt  to  every  head  of  a  family  a 
homestead  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  in  the  country, 
or  half  an  acre  in  town,  together  with  one  thousand  dollars' 
worth  of  such  personal  property  as  the  owner  may  select. 
The  legal  rate  of  interest  is  eight  per  cent.,  but  contracts 
may  be  made  for  any  rate.  Taxes  are  rather  high,  the  pres- 
ent rate  of  assessment  in  this  county  for  all  purposes  being 
one  dollar  and  fifty-five  cents  j^er  hundred  dollars.  But 
this  is  on  a  valuation  entirely  too  low.  The  State  Treas- 
ury is  solvent,  paying  cash  on  all  warrants  drawn  against 
it,  and  the  bonded  debts  of  the  State  are  gradually  being 
reduced,  and  interest  is  paid  thereon  promptly." 


CHAPTER    XI. 

EANDOM    SKETCHES, 

A)i   Ocean  Voyage  in  Winter. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  incidents  of  a  visit  to  Florida,  if 
the  journey  be  made  by  water,  as  it  should  be,  if  possible, 
is  the  sea-voyage  thither.  To  the  resident  of  New  York 
and  the  Eastern  section  of  the  North  the  opportunity  thus 
to  go  to  the  tropics  by  sea  is  afforded  weekly  by  the  Mal- 
lory  Steamship  Line  (Pier  20,  East  River),  the  only  ocean- 
route  to  Florida  from  the  North  which  involves  no  change 
or  transfer.  The  steamships  of  this  line  that  make  the  Flor- 
ida trip  direct  from  New  York  to  Jacksonville,  stopping  at 
Port  Royal  and  Fernandina,  are  the  Western  Texas,  of 
twelve  hundred  and  ten  tons,  Captain  Hines,  and  the  City 
of  San  Antonio,  fifteen  hundred  and  forty-seven  tons.  Cap- 
tain Risk  ;  and  it  is  sufficient  to  say  of  them  that  they  are 
first-class  sea-going  passenger-steamers,  built  of  iron  on  the 
most  approved  models,  provided  with  all  known  appliances 
for  safety  and  comfort,  and  fitted  up  with  elegance  and 
taste. 

In  making  the  journey  by  this  sea-route  the  contrast 
between  the  two  regions  and  climates  is  much  more  marked 
and  noticeable  than  in  going  by  land.  Leaving  New  York 
in  the  midst  of  winter,  the  tourist  sees  pass  by  him  in  glis- 
tening panorama  the  snow-clad  hills  and  shores  of  Long 
Island  and  Staten  Island,  feels  the  chilling  blasts,  and  gladly 
seeks  the  warm  and  cozy  cabin  to  escape  the  discomfort 


IT^  FLORIDA. 

of  the  cold.  Slippers  and  easy  coats  are  donned,  pipes  and 
papers  are  produced,  cards  and  dominoes  are  called  for  ; 
and  soon,  without  formal  introductions,  the  passengers  are 
rapidly  becoming  fi'iends  (and  what  friendships  are  so 
warm  and  unreserved  as  those  formed  on  a  sea-voyage  ?). 

Next  morning  land  is  nowhere  to  be  seen  ;  you  are  out 
on  the  vasty  deep,  and  quite  likely  it  is  a  surprise  to  you  to 
find  that  it  is  so  smooth  and  calm.  Very  many  people  on 
their  first  sea-voyage  allow  their  imaginations  to  be  stimu- 
lated and  their  apprehensions  aroused  by  the  accounts  which 
they  then  recall  of  terrible  storms  and  waves  "  mountain- 
high,"  of  plunging  and  straining  ships,  of  iron-bound  and 
dangerous  coasts,  and  the  like  ;  but  while  all  these  things 
are  possible,  yet,  like  the  possible  frightful  railway  accident, 
they  are  seldom  seen  or  experienced.  In  spite  of  the  general 
impression  to  the  contrary,  the  weather  along  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  America  is  nearly  always  fair  and  agreeable.  The 
writer  has  made  several  passages  around  the  famous  Cape 
Hatteras,  and  each  time  had  the  good  fortune  to  find  it 
like  a  journey  on  an  inland  lake.  Each  time  the  waters 
were  mirror-like  in  their  smoothness,  and  this  experience, 
by  no  means  a  rare  one,  has  produced  a  skeptical  feeling 
in  regard  to  that  cape  of  so  many  disagreeable  stories. 
Moreover,  even  should  "rough  weather"  be  encountered, 
the  worst  to  be  feared  is  an  acute  attack  of  the  mal-de-mer, 
and  a  prolongation  of  the  time  consumed  by  the  voyage. 
Of  downright  danger  there  may  be  said  to  be  none,  such  a 
thing  as  a  serious  accident  to  one  of  these  stanch  coast- 
wise steamers  being  among  the  rarest  of  occurrences. 

The  second  day,  schools  of  porpoises  begin  to  appear, 
flying-fish  and  jelly-fish  are  often  to  be  seen,  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  coast  to  the  west  are  obtained,  and  the 
polite  officers  are  kept  busy  pointing  out  and  giving  the 
names  of  the  tall,  warning  lighthouses  that  are  almost  con- 
stantly in  sight.     At  Port  Royal  a  short  stay  is  made,  the 


AN  OCEAN  VOYAGE  IN  WINTER.  175 

passengers  flock  on  shore,  and  here  you  first  begin  to  realize 
that  you  have  left  the  dreary  regions  of  winter  behind.  As 
he  nears  the  wharf,  the  tourist  Avill  begin  to  think  tlaat,  in 
the  number  of  smells  at  least,  it  resembles  the  city  of  Co- 
logne. This,  however,  is  due  to  the  vast  quantity  of  fer- 
tilizers which  is  consta"iitly  on  storage  near  by. 

Next  day — the  fourth  from  New  York — Fernandina  is 
reached,  a  lovely  island  city  of  broad  streets,  and  ample 
flower-gardens  surrounding  handsome  houses.  Here  we  get 
our  first  near  view  of  the  palmetto  and  the  orange-tree,  and 
of  that  teeming  luxuriance  of  vegetation  which  marks  a 
semi-tropical  clime.  Again  on  board,  and  seven  hours  later 
the  steamer  is  passing  swiftly  up  the  broad  and  beautiful 
St.  John's  River,  affording  on  either  hand  a  continuous 
panorama  of  the  most  pleasing  and  novel  scenery.  Soon 
the  mighty  screw  ceases  to  revolve,  we  round  gracefully  up 
to  the  pier,  good-bys  are  hastily  exchanged,  and  the  tourist 
is  in  Jacksonville,*  the  social  headquarters  in  wintei*,  and 
the  chief  commercial  center  of  the  Land  of  Flowers.  Here 
at  last  he  finds  June  in  January  ;  and,  as  he  discards  his 
overcoat  and  takes  his  farewell  glance  at  the  steamer  which 
brought  him  thither,  he  will  be  apt  to  recall  Thomas  Bu- 
chanan Read's  suggestive  and  graceful  lines  : 

"  Yon  deep  hark  goes 
Where  traffic  blows 
From  lands  of  sun  to  lands  of  snows; 
This  happier  one 
Its  race  is  run 
From  lands  of  snow  to  lands  of  sun." 

*  Since  the  foregoing  was  written,  a  cliangc  of  plan  has  occurred,  hy 
wliich  the  steamers  of  the  Mallory  Line  stop  at  Fernandina,  and  passengers 
are  carried  to  Jaelvsonvillc  in  one  and  a  lialf  hour  by  the  new  short-cut 
railroad.  It  is  understood  that  this  arrangement  is  only  temporary,  and 
the  steamers  will,  in  the  near  future,  resume  their  through  trips  direct  to 
Jacksonville. 


176  FLORIDA. 

The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Florida. 

On  its  Atlantic  seaboard  Florida  presents  some  curious 
physical  features.  Along  its  entire  extent  there  are  no  good 
harbors,  except  at  Fernandina  and  St.  Augustine,  and  the 
soundings  are  shoal  for  some  distance  out ;  yet  just  back  of 
the  coast-line,  for  a  distance  of  over  three  hundred  uiiles 
south  of  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  River,  there  is  a  suc- 
cession of  streams  and  lakes  and  lagoons  which  afford  almost 
uninterrupted  inland  water  communication  along  more  than 
two  thirds  of  the  total  length  of  the  peninsula.  The  most 
important  link  in  this  chain  of  Avaters — the  Indian  River — 
is  fully  described  elsewhere.  At  the  northern  extremity  of 
Indian  River  a  canal,  two  thousand  feet  long,  known  as  the 
Haulover,  leads  into  the  Mosquito  Lagoon,  Avhich  extends 
northward  about  twelve  miles  to  Oak  Hill,  and  then,  through 
the  Devil's  Elbow,  connects  with  the  Ilillsboro  River,  The 
latter  extends  northward  about  fifteen  miles,  and  then  be- 
comes known  as  the  Halifax  River,  which  begins  about 
twenty-four  miles  south  of  St.  Augustine.  All  this  portion 
of  the  State  is  exceptionally  attractive,  with  a  fine  climate, 
excellent  sea-beaches,  rich  soil,  and  a  varied  capacity  for 
production.  Its  chief  need  at  present  is  easy  and  certain 
connection  with  the  natural  markets  for  its  products  ;  and 
this  is  likely  to  be  afforded  by  a  canal  which  the  Lake 
Okechobee  Land  Company  propose  to  include  in  the  great 
system  of  public  imj^rovements  which  they  have  undertaken 
to  carry  out. 

Their  plan  is  to  construct  a  continuous  line  of  canal, 
suitable  for  commodious  steamers  of  liffht  drauijht,  besrin- 
ning  at  a  point  at  or  near  the  confluence  of  Pablo  Creek 
and  the  St.  John's  River,  and  extending  thence  in  a  south- 
erly direction  to  and  including  Lake  Worth,  a  total  distance 
of  about  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  In  this  connection 
the  following  passages  from  a  "  Report  to  the  Company,"  by 


THE  ATLANTIC  COAST  OF  FLORIDA.  177 

the  civil  engineer  (Mr.  James  E.  Krearaer),  wbo  examined 
the  proposed  route  in  the  spring  of  1881,  will  prove  inter- 
esting : 

"  In  constructing  the  Coast  Canal  from  the  St.  John's 
River  south,  advantage  may  be  taken  of  the  waters  of 
Pablo  Creek,  North  River,  Mantanzas  River,  JNIata  Compra, 
and  Smith's  or  Ilaulover  Creek,  Halifax  and  Hillsboro  Rivers, 
Mosquito  Lagoon,  Indian  River,  St.  Lucie  Sound,  Jupiter 
Nari'ows,  Lake  Worth  Creek,  and  Lake  Worth.  All  of  the 
above-named  waters  are  adjacent  to,  and  generally  parallel 
with,  the  east  coast  of  Florida,  being  separated  from  the 
ocean  by  peninsulas  and  extended  narrow  islands,  varying 
in  width  from  a  few  yards  to  several  miles.  These  inland 
waters,  affording  an  almost  unbroken  line  of  communica- 
tion, may,  at  a  reasonably  moderate  expenditure  in  system- 
atic construction  presenting  no  embarrassing  engineering 
problems,  be  develoiDcd  into  a  great  canal,  possessing  features 
peculiarly  its  own.  Merely  where  the  artificial  work  of  join- 
ing river  to  river  is  performed  can  it  be  regarded  as  a  canal 
proper,  as  from  these  points  it  develops  into  those  majestic 
arms  of  the  sea,  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  miles  in  length, 
varying  from  one  to  six  miles  in  width,  bordered  on  either 
side  by  a  country  enjoying  unbounded  agricultural  resources, 
a  semi-tropical  luxuriance  in  beauty  of  foliage,  scenery  of  an 
exceedingly  varied  and  picturesque  character,  and  blessed 
with  a  climate  throughout  the  entire  year  the  most  equable 
and  salubrious  enjoyed  by  any  State  in  the  Union. 

"  From  St.  Aug-ustine  the  Mantanzas  River  extends  in  a 
southerly  direction  a  distance  of  twenty-live  miles,  with  an 
average  width  of  one  half  mile.  Its  waters  are  salt  and 
tidal,  and  with  the  exception  of  isolated  bars,  and  a  rapid 
shoaling  for  a  distance  of  three  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
river,  there  is  a  fair  channel  for  light-draught  boats.  Anas- 
tasia  Island,  which  acts  as  a  breakwater  for  the  harbor  of 
St.  Augustine,  forms  the  eastern  shore-line  for  a  distance  of 
eighteen  miles  to  Mantanzas  Inlet.  The  natural  surface  is 
not  so  elevated  as  on  the  west  shore,  and  is  composed  in 
part  of  shell-land  and  black,  loamy  sand,  capable  of  produc- 
ing profitable  crops.  On  the  mainland  are  beautiful  groves 
of  pine,  red  cedar,  and  oak.  Desirable  cleared  land  is  worth 
from  fifty  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  dej)ending  on 


178  FLORIDA. 

location  and  richness  of  soil.  South  of  Mantanzas  Inlet  the 
river  rapidly  contracts  in  width  and  depth  to  its  junction 
with  Pellicers  Creek,  at  which  point  the  Avork  of  construct- 
ing that  portion  of  the  canal  connecting  the  Halifax  River 
propei'ly  begins,  consisting  of  a  cut  eighteen  miles  in  length. 
In  this  operation  advantage  may  be  taken  of  the  Mantan- 
zas to  its  junction  with  the  JVIata  Conipra  Creek,  thence 
generally  following  this  stream  to  its  head,  from  Avhich,  for 
a  distance  of  six  miles,  the  route  crosses  the  country  to  the 
source  of  Smith's  Creek,  which  will  have  to  be  deepened 
and  straightened  to  within  four  miles  of  the  head  of  the 
Halifax.  The  country  to  the  west  of  this  portion  of  the 
line  consists  of  flat  woods,  prairie,  savannas,  high  and  low 
hammock  of  oak,  palmetto,  wild-orange,  etc.;  the  surface 
undulating,  soil  sandy,  and,  judging  from  the  topography 
and  general  indications,  the  opening  of  this  section  of  the 
canal  can  be  readily  accomplished. 

"  That  interesting  arm  of  the  sea,  wdiose  several  divi- 
sions are  known  respectively  as  Halifax  River,  Ilillsboro 
River,  and  Mosquito  Lagoon,  forming  a  common  channel, 
with  an  outwatering  at  Mosquito  Inlet  (latitude  29°  north), 
continues  to  the  south  and  parallel  with  the  ocean-beach  a 
distance  of  fifty-five  miles,  and  is  separated  from  it  by  a 
narrow  strip  of  land  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in  width. 
The  hamlets  and  towns  of  Holly  Hill,  New  Britain,  Day- 
tona,  Halifax  City,  Port  Orange,  Blake  Post-Oflice,  and 
New  Smyrna,  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  are  desirably  lo- 
cated, principally  on  rich,  high  hammock-lands  of  jjalmetto, 
oak,  and  other  forest-trees.  The  inhabitants  are  from  all 
sections  of  the  Union,  generally  prosperous  and  anxiously 
awaiting  the  opening  of  the  canal,  and  the  consequent  im- 
petus to  the  general  industries  of  the  country.  Dayton  a  is 
the  most  important  town  on  the  river,  possesses  a  good 
hotel,  stores,  etc.  New  Smyrna,  in  the  year  1770,  was  the 
seat  of  a  large  and  profitable  trade  in  indigo,  immense  crops 
of  which  were  cultivated  by  a  colony  of  Minorcans,  under 
the  guidance  of  Andrew  Turnbull  ;  the  dense  hammocks, 
old  canals,  and  turnpikes  are  silent  monuments  attesting  to 
the  vast  extent  of  the  plantations  devoted  to  this  enter- 
prise. The  river  varies  in  widtli  from  one  half  to  two  and 
a  half  miles,  possessing  a  fairly  direct  channel,  intercepted 
by  sand  and  oyster  bars,  rendering  portions  of  the  route 


TEE  ATLANTIC  COAST  OF  FLORIDA.  179 

very  tortuous  ;  beautiful  islands  dot  its  surface,  and  the 
shore-lines  are  covered  with  verdure  to  the  water's  edge. 
A  low  belt  of  sand  about  seven  hundred  yards  in  width, 
pierced  by  a  narrow  canal,  known  as  the  llaulover,  sepa- 
rates this  system  from  Indian  River,  whose  coralline  bed 
and  generally  well-defined  shore-line  extends  a  distance  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  south,  a  narrow  fringe 
of  sand  protecting  it  from  the  ocean,  the  only  communica- 
tion therewith  being  at  Indian  River  Inlet,  latitude  27"  30' 
north.  At  the  respective  distances  of  ten,  twenty-one,  and 
thirty-six  miles  from  the  Haulover,  Titusville,  Rock  Ledge, 
and  Eau  Gallic  are  located  ;  the  first-named,  the  county- 
seat  of  Brevard  County,  being  the  most  prominent.  It 
possesses  a  good  hotel,  and  is  the  general  headquarters  for 
business  on  the  river.  Rock  Ledge  is  the  center  of  a  large 
section  of  country  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  orange. 
One  thousand  acres  of  land  in  this  vicinity  will,  when  set 
in  trees,  give  an  output  of  over  three  hundred  thousand 
boxes  per  annum.  Merritt's  Island,  extending  from  the 
head  of  the  river  to  a  point  opposite  Eau  Gallic,  is  noted 
for  its  valuable  lands,  tropical  fruits,  and  rich  yield  from 
the  sugar-cane.  The  St.  Sebastian  River  partially  drains 
the  northern  portion  of  the  Ilalpatiokee  Flats,  and  is  the 
most  pi'ominent  of  several  streams  joining  the  lagoon  north 
of  Indian  River  Xarrows,  which  are  due  to  a  number  of  isl- 
ands contracting  the  channel  at  this  point.  Fort  Capron, 
fifty-six  miles  south  of  Eau  Gallie,  and  02:)posite  Indian 
River  Inlet,  is  the  site  of  a  military  post,  established  in 
1849.  Meteorological  observations,  extending  over  a  series 
of  years,  show  an  equable  temperature,  with  comparative 
dryness,  mild  and  salubrious  climate,  and  absolute  immuni- 
ty from  epidemic  disease.  An  abundance  of  fruit,  vegeta- 
bles, game,  fish,  oysters,  etc.,  would  certainly  commend  this 
as  a  site  for  a  commodious  hotel.  Twenty-five  miles  south 
the  St.  Lucie  River,  which  is  the  principal  outlet  for  the 
drainage  of  a  vast  territory  lying  east  of  Lake  Okechobce, 
is  confluent  with  the  Indian  River  ;  it  has  a  wide  and  deep 
channel  branching  otf  into  a  north  and  south  prong,  and  in 
constructing  a  drainage  canal  from  Lake  Okechobce  to  the 
forks  of  the  St.  Lucie,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  open  an  inlet  connecting  Indian  River 
with  the  ocean.     The  inlet  at  Gilbert's  Bar,  just  south,  has 


180  FLORIDA. 

been  opened  on  several  occasions,  and  as  often,  due  to  its 
natural  features,  closed.  On  the  east  side  of  Indian  Kiver, 
just  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lucie,  a  large  bay  ex- 
tends toward  the  ocean,  and  is  separated  therefrom  by  a 
sandy  ridge  not  over  three  hundred  feet  wide,  with  a  possi- 
ble underlying  stratum  of  coquina.  The  ocean-beach  forms 
a  slight  cove  at  this  point,  beyond  which  is  a  reef  exposed 
at  low  tide  and  concave  to  the  shore-line.  These  condi- 
tions are  very  favorable  to  the  maintenance  of  an  inlet,  the 
opening  of  which  I  would  recommend  at  this  point  ;  and  if 
once  formed  due  to  the  action  of  tidal  waters,  its  perma- 
nence is  assured.  Indian  River,  for  a  distance  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  will  average  one  and  a  half  mile  in 
width,  widening  at  points  to  five  miles,  with  a  generally 
direct  channel,  requiring  'dredging  at  intervals  in  order  to 
render  it  safely  navigable. 

"  The  land  bordering  the  river  is  generally  high  and  low 
hammock,  interspersed  Avith  scrub  palmetto,  with  some 
marsh  adjacent  the  narrows.  The  soil  is  very  productive, 
sugar-cane  and  troj^ical  fruits  maturing  to  perfection. 
Three  miles  south  of  the  St.  Lucie  Ave  enter  Jupiter  Nar- 
rows, which  are  very  tortuous,  necessitating  the  labor  of 
straightening  and  deepening  at  several  points.  They  extend 
south,  measured  by  the  channel,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles 
to  Jupiter  Inlet,  intercepting  Peck's  Lake  and  Hope  Sound  ; 
a  dense  growth  of  mangrove  covers  the  low  borders  ;  and 
from  general  observations  afforded  by  the  openings,  I  in- 
ferred the  land  for  the  entire  distance  to  be  of  good  quality, 
and  the  same  character  as  that  farther  north. 

"A  continuation  of  Jupiter  Inlet  to  the  Vv^est  for  a  dis- 
tance of  eight  miles,  forms  the  Loocahachee,  a  broad  river, 
from  which  are  several  branches,  bordered  by  cypress,  oak, 
etc.,  leading  into  the  prairies  and  flats.  From  the  inlet  to 
Lake  Worth,  by  the  windings  of  Lake  Worth  Creek,  the 
distance  is  about  thirteen  miles  ;  in  a  direct  line,  not  over 
seven.  A  single  cut  of  one  hundred  yards  in  length  will 
make  a  saving  of  one  and  a  half  mile  in  distance  ;  this 
same  feature  is  noticeable  in  a  marked  degree  at  other 
points.  There  is  a  depth  of  five  feet  of  water  in  the  chan- 
nel from  its  mouth  to  the  rapids  ;  from  this  point  to  the 
canal  and  Haulover  at  Lake  Worth  the  water  is  compara- 
tively shallow,  and  at  its  head  is  about  eight  feet  above  the 


TEE  ATLANTIC  COAST  OF  FLORIDA.         181 

level  of  the  surface  of  the  lake.  A  direct  cut  from  the 
rapids  to  Little  Lake  Worth,  which  is  immediately  north  of 
Lake  Worth  proper,  would  shorten  the  distance  materially. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  comment  on  the  favorable  character 
of  the  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Worth,  as,  even  with  its 
present  development,  semi-weekly  cargoes  of  vegetables 
and  tropical  fruits  in  their  respective  seasons  could  be  j^ro- 
vided." 

THE    SOUTHEAST    AND    SOUTHWEST    COASTS. 

The  following  passages  arc  from  an  interesting  article 
which  appeared  in  a  recent  number  of  the  "  Semi-Tropical 
Magazine,"  written  by  M.  A.  Williams,  a  civil  engineer  of 
Jacksonville  : 

"  The  climate  upon  this  coast  is  exceedingly  pleasant  and 
healthy,  being  fanned  almost  continually  by  the  sea-breezes, 
and  the  lands  are  adapted  to  general  cultivation,  but  partic- 
ularly to  semi-tropical  fruits.  The  orange  grows  there  to 
great  perfection.  These  inland  waters  are  more  properly 
speaking  soioids  rather  than  rivers,  and  upon  their  borders 
there  are  localities  of  great  beauty.  The  waters  abound  in 
the  finest  variety  of  fish.  Indeed,  the  fisheries  at  particular 
places  on  these  waters  can  not  be  excelled  as  to  quantity, 
quality,  and  variety  of  the  fish,  and  the  same  can  be  said  of 
Charlotte  Harbor,  Sarasota,  and  other  points  upon  the  Gulf. 
So  far  a  portion  only  of  these  fisheries  have  been  used, 
chiefly  for  the  West  India  market,  but,  with  population  and 
increased  facilities  for  shipment,  they  must  become  of  great 
value  at  no  distant  day. 

"  The  coral  formation  of  the  peninsula  crops  out  upon  the 
surface  in  the  neighborhood  of  Biscayne  Bay,  and,  although 
the  land  is  exceedingly  rocky,  yet  it  is  productive  and  well 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  tropical  fruits.  L^pon  the  isl- 
ands lying  off  the  southeast  coast  of  Florida — Elliot's,  Key 
Largo,  and  the  islands  farther  south — is  where  the  pineap- 
ples for  the  United  States  are  produced.  Tliere  were  more 
than  one  hundred  thousand  pineapi)les  ])roduccd  upon  Key 
Largo  the  present  year.  Tliis  fruit  produced  upon  these 
islands  is  said  to  be  of  better  flavor  and  of  sufjcrior  quality 
to  that  produced  upon  the  Bahamas,  and  sells  for  a  much  bet- 


182  FLORIDA. 

ter  price  in  the  New  York  market.  All  other  tropical  fruits 
grow  here  to  perfection.  The  surface  of  the  lands  is  rocky 
almost  beyond  description.  In  surveying  upon  them,  I  had 
frequently  to  pile  up  rocks  around  my  Jacob's  staff  to  make 
it  stand  upright.  In  fact,  the  entire  cultivation  is  done  with 
the  hands  and  the  use  of  a  wooden  stick  ;  a  common  hoe  or 
plow  can  not  be  used.  The  woods  growing  upon  these 
islands  differ  from  those  of  any  other  portion  of  the  State  ; 
they  are  mostly  exceedingly  hard,  heavy,  and  when  dressed 
very  beautiful. 

"The  Caloosahatchie  and  Pease  Creek,  upon  the  Gulf- 
coast,  are  large  and  beautiful  rivers,  and  have  upon  their  bor- 
ders a  very  large  amount  of  excellent  land  ;  and  upon  these 
waters  the  cocoanut,  banana,  pineapple,  guava,  and  other  ten- 
der tropical  fruits  grow  to  perfection.  It  is  also  well  adapt- 
ed to  the  culture  of  sugar-cane.  The  Caloosahatchie  Ri^er, 
from  its  entrance  into  Charlotte  Harbor  for  forty  miles  up, 
is  more  than  a  mile  wide  ;  it  then  narrows  into  a  deep  chan- 
nel with  precipitous  banks,  and  is  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  wide.  It  so  continues  to  the 
falls  at  Fort  Thompson.  All  the  streams  that  flow  from  the 
Everglades,  both  on  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf,  have  falls,  thus 
pi'oving  the  practicability  of  draining  this  immense  area  of 
submerged  lands.  In  my  judgment  the  Caloosahatchie  is 
the  best  tropical  region  of  this  State  ;  indeed,  it  would 
be  hard  to  excel  it  for  beauty  of  location  and  adaptation  of 
soil  for  tropical  fruit-culture  anywhere.  Besides,  it  com- 
mands a  large  area  of  country  south  of  it,  embracing  the 
best  cattle-range  in  the  State.  The  propriety  of  connect- 
ing this  with  the  Okechobee  Lake  and  the  Kissimmee 
River  by  canal,  thus  giving  an  inland  navigation  for  several 
hundred  miles  in  the  center  of  the  peninsula,  is  a  matter 
that  has  been  ably  stated  by  other  persons. 

"  The  country  around  Forts  Meade  and  Bartow,  upon  the 
head-waters  of  Pease  Creek,  is  in  many  respects  one  of  the 
most  desirable  portions  of 'Florida.  It  is  a  region  of  clear, 
open-water  lakes,  with  beautiful  running  streams  of  lim- 
pid water.  The  land  is  generally  first-rate  pine,  with  clay 
subsoil,  and  is  very  productive.  This  is  an  exceedingly 
healthy  region,  and  is  almost  entirely  free  from  mosquitoes. 
The  lands  on  the  head- waters  of  the  Alafia  are  similar  in  all 
respects  to  those  just  mentioned. 


THE  ATLANTIC  COAST  OF  FLORIDA.  183 

"There  are  good  lands  upon  the  Manatee  River  and 
Sarasota  Bay,  and  in  other  portions  of  Manatee  County, 
with  locations  of  great  beauty  and  value.  Previous  to  the 
war  the  largest  sugar-planting  interest  in  Florida  was  upon 
the  Manatee  River." 


CPIAPTER  XII. 


CLIMATE    AXD    HEALTH. 


Perhaps  I  can  not  begin  this  chapter  in  a  better  way 
than  by  quoting  the  following  passage  from  the  official  and 
carefully  prepared  pamphlet  of  the  State  Bureau  of  Immi- 
gration : 

"  The  climate  of  Florida  is  not  a  liot  climate  in  summer, 
but  mild,  and  not  subject  to  great  changes  of  temperature. 
The  winters  are  not  cold  ^\\(\.  freezing ,  but  uniformly  coo/ and 
bracing.  Throughout  the  whole  twelve  months,  the  rainy, 
cloudy,  disagreeable  days  are  the  exception  ;  fair,  bright, 
Bunny  days  the  rule.  The  thermometer  seldom  goes  below 
30°  in  winter,  and  rarely  above  90°  in  summer.  The  official 
records  show  the  average  for  summer,  78°  ;  for  winter,  00°. 
The  daily  constant  ocean-breezes  in  summer  modify  the 
heat  (the  Gulf-breeze,  coming  with  the  setting  sun,  cools 
the  air  at  night)  ;  a  warm  or  sultry  night  is  almost  unknown. 
Official  sanitary  reports,  both  of  scientific  bodies  and  the 
army,  show  that  Florida  stands  first  in  health,  although  in 
the  reports  are  included  the  transient  or  recent  population, 
many  of  whom  take  refuge  here  as  invalids,  some  in  the 
lowest  stages  of  disease.  In  the  greater  portion  of  the 
State,  frost  is  rarely  known.  The  summer  is  longer,  but  the 
heat  less  oppressive,  than  midsummer  at  the  North  ;  this  re- 
sults from  its  peculiar  peninsular  shape  and  the  cver-recur 
ring  breezes  which  pass  over  the  State,  For  days  together. 
New  York,  Boston,  and  Chicago  show,  in  summer,  tempera- 
ture as  high  as  100°  ;  it  is  very  rare  that  it  reaches  that  de- 
gree in  Florida  for  a  single  day,  generally  ranging  below 
90°  :  not  oppressive,  modified  by  the  ever-changing  air  ; 


CLIMATE  AFD  HEALTH.  185 

not  sultry,  close,  or  humid  ;  mornings  and  ev^enings  always 
cool  and  bracing.  Natives  and  old  residents,  if  asked, 
would  say  they  preferred  the  summer  to  the  winter  months 
for  climate.  This  climate  is  peculiarly  adapted  for  vegeta- 
tion. There  are  years  when  in  some  localities  there  is  a 
drought,  and  years  when  portions  of  the  State  have  had 
excessive  rains,  but  they  do  not  extend  far.  In  the  early 
spring,  when  most  of  the  planting  season  occurs,  there  are 
frequent  showers  ;  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  July,  the 
rainy  season  commences,  continuing  till  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember ;  the  rain  falls  almost  every  day,  commencing  in 
the  early  afternoon,  lasting  from  a  few  minutes  to  a  few 
hours,  rarely  as  long  as  the  last  jjeriod,  often  heavy  with 
thunder  and  sharp  lightning,  then  ceasing,  leaving  the  air 
cool  and  sweet,  the  sky  clear  and  bright ;  the  porous  soil 
quickly  absorbs  the  water  and  leaves  the  footway  dry. 
These  rains  fill  up  the  low,  flat  lands  and  j^onds,  and  are  in- 
jurious to  crops  when  planted  on  such  lands,  underlaid  by 
hard-pan.  But  on  the  high  pine-lands  and  high  hammocks 
the  rains  are  of  advantage,  making  crops  grow  rank  and 
heavy.  The  '  rainy  season '  is  not  of  regular  annual  oc- 
currence, 

"We  take  from  Dr.  A.  S.  Baldwin's  tables,  kept  for 
the  Smithsonian  Institute,  as  follows  : 

" 'Jacksonville,  latitude  30°  15',  longitude  82° — mean  of 
three  daily  observations  for  twenty  years,  1844:-'GT.  Ther- 
mometer : 

January 55°  July 82° 

February 58°  August. 82° 

March f>-l°  September 'r8° 

April 70°  October 70° 

jMay 76°  November G2° 

June 80°  December 52° 

*' '  The  army  records  show  for  twenty  years,  variation  at 
St.  Augustine,  Florida,  23°. 

"  Rainfall  at  Jacksonville,  average  for  ten  3'ears,  54*5 
inches  ;  the  largest  quantity  in  August  and  September,  and 
the  least  in  Xoveniber.' " 

From  my  personal  experience,  I  can  indorse  the  above 
opinions.     The  winter  of  1879-'80,  in  all  portions  of  Florida, 


186  FLORIDA. 

was  about  as  delightful  a  season  as  can  be  imagined  ;  but, 
as  that  winter  was  an  exceptionally  fine  one,  perhaps  it 
should  not  be  taken  as  a  criterion.  The  summer  of  1880 
was  the  hottest  known  in  years,  in  this  State.  In  a  few 
localities  the  thermometer  attained  102°  on  several  occa- 
sions. Yet  I  spent  the  entire  summer  and  autumn  in  South 
Florida,  engaged  in  a  vocation  that  required  me  to  be  out- 
of-doors  nearly  all  the  time.  I  rode  about  on  horseback 
through  the  woods  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  but  on  no  occa- 
sion did  I  really  suffer  from  the  heat  or  feel  it  in  any  way 
unbearable.  In  fact,  I  thought  it  a  pleasant,  agreeable 
summer,  and  never  enjoyed  better  health.  I  was  frequently 
caught  out  in  the  sudden  showers — often  regular  drenches — 
in  the  rainy  season,  and  was  as  wet  as  though  I  had  been 
lender  a  shower-bath  ;  but  I  always  remained  out  and  dried 
by  the  wind  or  sun  as  the  case  might  be.  I  saw  on  three  oc- 
casions the  thermometer  register  102°,  but  we  were  all  pre- 
pared for  warm  weather,  and  did  not  find  it  so  oppressive 
as  such  a  temperature  would  indicate.  The  winter  of  1880 
-'81  was  considered  the  coldest  and  stormiest  of  many 
years,  yet  we  probably  enjoyed  two  thirds  of  the  evenings, 
sitting  out  on  the  verandas  as  in  May  weather.  Three  times 
the  thermometer  went  below  40°  ;  once,  December  30th, 
it  touched  32°,  damaging  tomatoes  and  such  garden-vege- 
tables— also  bananas,  guavas,  and  pineapples.  On  most  of 
the  evenings  and  early  mornings  in  January  we  had  fires 
in  our  rooms,  but  it  was  not  cold  of  the  Korthem  kind, 
neither  unhealthy  nor  disagreeable,  simply  chilly.  We  com- 
plained loudly  at  55°  above  zero. 

This  was  my  experience  of  the  weather  in  Orange  Coun- 
ty, which  is  situated  considerably  north  of  the  center  of 
the  State.  In  the  counties  farther  north,  up  to  the  Georgia 
line,  it  was  several  degrees  colder  but  not  freezing — except 
the  cold  snaps  in  December  and  March — nor  bitter,  only 
much  colder  than  is  usual  in  Florida.     It  was  in  this  sec- 


CLIMATE  AFD  HEALTH.  187 

tion  that  the  disastrous  cold  snaps  occurred  December 
30th  and  March  29th,  when  the  thermometer  registered 
about  20°  above  zero  for  a  few  hours,  and  ice  formed  in 
Jacksonville  and  damaged  fruits,  flowers,  and  crops.  It 
caused  no  personal  suffering,  and  was  damaging  to  fruits 
and  crops  only  of  the  tenderest  kind,  because  unexpected 
like  any  climatic  calamity.  Such  severe  cold  weather  is 
not  usual  in  this  State,  and  should  not  be  regarded  as  an 
evil  liable  to  occur  frequently.  It  was  an  exception.  Its 
damage  was  less  than  from  a  drought,  wet  season,  or  locust- 
plague,  so  frequently  occurring  in  other  States.  The  rainy, 
cloudy  days  of  December  and  January  were  so  unexpected 
and  i;n-Florida-like,  that  all  felt  disgusted. 

I  must  say,  however,  that  we  were  somewhat  reconciled 
to  our  disasters  and  discomfort,  as  we  read  of  the  actual 
and  widespread  suffering  at  the  North  and  in  the  great 
Northwest.  I  recollect  that  in  February  we  wore  reading 
almost  daily  in  the  newspapers  of  great  storms  ctf  snow  and 
sleet,  of  delays  and  dangers  on  railways,  of  interruptions  to 
telegraphic  communication,  of  loss  of  life  and  property,  of 
terrible  suffering  from  cold  and  hunger,  of  whole  regions 
devastated  by  floods,  and  of  the  entire  machinery  of  busi- 
ness and  transportation  brought  to  a  standstill.  At  the 
same  time,  in  many  parts  of  the  North,  diphtheria,  small- 
pox, and  similar  scourges,  were  causing  the  death  of  many 
thousands,  involving  doctors'  bills  (if  no  worse)  for  hun- 
dreds of  poor  families  whose  resources  were  already  strained 
in  procuring  fuel  and  clothes  for  the  necessary  warmth. 
Now,  it  is  the  plain  unvarnished  truth  that  that  same  month 
of  February,  1881,  in  every  part  of  Florida,  was  as  warm, 
as  sunny,  as  genial,  and  as  healthy,  as  any  May  month  ever 
seen  in  the  North.  Fruits  and  flowers  were  growing  every- 
where, crops  were  being  planted  or  gathered,  straw-hats 
and  light  clothes  were  common,  and — in  the  more  southern 
regions — swimming  and  bathing  in  the  ponds  and  in  the 


188  FLORIDA. 

sea  were  enjoyed.  Oranges  were  being  gathered  in  every 
section  where  the  frost  had  not  damaged  them,  and  among 
the  out-door  attractions  were  fishing,  hunting,  riding,  boat- 
ing, and  yachting.  Open  doors  and  windows  were  the  uni- 
versal rule,  the  evenings  were  usually  spent  on  the  broad 
verandas,  and  fresh  garden-vegetables  were  on  the  tables. 
By  reference  to  the  files  of  the  "  South  Florida  Journal," 
I  find  that  on  the  22d  of  January  Mr.  George  E.  Sawyer, 
of  Sanford,  started  for  the  State  Fair  at  Jacksonville,  with 
an  exhibit  of  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  guavas,  bananas, 
lemon  and  banana  blooms,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  lettuce, 
turnips,  radishes,  and  carrots,  all  just  plucked  in  the  open 
air. 

In  the  matter  of  healthfulness,  too,  the  contrast  was 
equally  great.  Probably  not  two  people  in  the  thousand 
died  during  that  February  in  all  Florida  ;  certainly  none 
died  from  the  effects  of  cold,  or  from  those  frightful  epi- 
demics tha^  are  the  terror  of  the  North.  Pneumonia  is  un- 
known in  Florida  ;  so  are  diphtheria  and  small-pox.  Even 
the  summers  are  remarkably  healthy,  except  for  the  malari- 
ous fevers  which  are  due  to  local  conditions  that  are  easily 
recognized  and  guarded  against.  There  was  never  known 
a  case  of  sunstroke  or  of  hydrophobia  in  Florida.  YelloAV 
fever  has  been  known  to  occur  in  the  State,  and  there  are 
five  localities  that  have  acquired  the  bad  reputation  always 
inflicted  upon  a  place  that  has  been  visited  by  this  terrible 
epidemic  ;  but  in  each  place,  on  each  occasion,  the  disease 
was  brought  there  by  infected  vessels  ;  in  no  case  was  it 
of  local  or  spontaneous  origin. 

The  question  of  climate  and  health,  however,  is  pecul- 
iarly one  in  which  the  opinions  of  specialists  are  all-impor- 
tant ;  and,  having  now  offered  my  own  testimony  in  the 
matter,  I  propose  to  cite  the  confirmatory  evidence  of  those 
who  have  given  most  attention  to  the  matter,  and  whose 
conclusions  are  most  entitled  to  respect.     Dr.  Joseph  P. 


CLIMATE  AND  HEALTH.  189 

Logan,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  physicians  in  Atlanta, 
Georgia,  contributed  a  valuable  article  on  "  Cliniate-Cure  " 
to  "  Gaillard's  Medical  Journal,"  for  March,  1881,  and  from 
it  I  make  (by  permission)  the  following  extracts  : 

"  Without  undertaking  to  cover  the  whole  ground  em- 
braced in  the  subject  ixnder  consideration,  or  to  engage 
for  the  present  in  the  discussion  of  the  speculative  theo- 
ries now  so  rife  in  regard  to  the  details  of  special  influ- 
ences of  climate  upon  disease,  I  propose  as  a  rule,  in 
general  terms,  that  the  best  climate  for  the  invalid  suffer- 
ing from  any  disease  is  that  which  furnishes  the  largest 
opportunity  for  interesting,  comfortable,  and  healthful 
out-door  exercise,  thoroughly  ventilated  sleeping-rooms, 
and  in  which  there  is  the  least  necessity  for  burdensome 
clothing. 

"  While  for  many  years  the  w^cight  of  evidence  in  favor 
of  the  State  of  Florida,  as  furnishing  these  conditions  to  a 
higher  degree  than  any  other  portion  of  the  United  States, 
has  been  very  decided,  yet,  owing  largely  to  a  want  of  care- 
ful discrimination  upon  the  part  of  medical  advisers  in  send- 
ing persons  in  the  fully  developed  or  advanced  stage  of  con- 
sumption to  that  State,  and  the  natural  anxiety  of  even  the 
most  hopeless  sufferers  to  exhaust  every  possible  resource 
in  the  effort  to  prolong  life,  doubts  as  to  the  real  advantages 
of  that  region  have  arisen,  and  repeated  efforts  have  been 
made  by  enthusiastic  members  of  the  medical  profession  to 
establish  a  climatic  sanitarium  elsewhere.  At  various  times 
it  was  to  be  found  among  the  snow  and  ice  of  Minnesota, 
the  great  elevations  of  Colorado,  the  plains  of  western 
Texas,  or  the  sand-hills  and  uplands  of  South  and  North 
Carolina,  or  Georgia  ;  but  the  writer  is  strongly  impressed 
with  the  conviction,  after  a  number  of  years'  consideration 
of  this  subject,  and  such  opportunities  of  observation  as  in 
his  judgment  authorize  him  to  put  upon  record  the  opinion, 
that  all  these  attempts  will  in  a  large  majority  of  cases  of 
tubercular  disease,  and  more  strikingly  so  with  I'cfei'cncc  to 
the  other  diseases  to  which  reference  has  been  made,  prove 
illusive. 

"  His  testimony  is,  that  while  from  the  causes  mentioned, 
and  the  want  of  judgment  in  various  ways  upon  the  part  of 


190  FLORIDA. 

sufferers  from  these  diseases  who  have  made  the  experi- 
ment, and  we  regret  to  say  the  want  of  moral  courage  (to 
which  the  writer  pleads  personally  guilty)  in  facing  and 
presenting  the  inevitable  to  our  patients,  respectable  pro- 
fessional and  popular  doubts  as  to  the  efficiency  of  the  cli- 
mate of  Florida  as  a  remedy  for  consumption  have  arisen  ; 
yet  the  drift  of  the  sentiment  of  both  classes,  within  the 
scope  of  his  observation,  is  more  marked  at  the  present  hour 
in  favor  of  the  idea  that  nowhere  else  in  this  country  is  to 
bo  found  the  same  reliable  evidence  as  to  the  value  of  cli- 
mate-cure in  disease,  and  specially  in  consumption,  as  that 
which  has  been  accumulating  for  many  years  in  regard  to 
the  State  of  Florida.  That  there  is  a  decided  exemption 
from  tubercular  consumption,  as  originating  in  Georgia  and 
other  Southern  States  in  the  same  latitude,  as  compared  with 
the  northern  sections  of  the  United  States,  and  that  many 
pei'sons  in  the  incipient  stage  of  the  disease,  or  with  a  pro- 
clivity in  that  direction,  in  the  North,  have  been  greatly 
benefited  by  a  removal  to  the  milder  and  more  genial  cli- 
mate of  almost  every  portion  of  the  Southern  States,  and 
especially  in  Georgia  and  the  Carolinas,  is  doubtless  true  ; 
but  that  this  advantage  has  been  mainly  due  in  this  region 
to  the  greater  opportunity  for  exercising  in  comfort  and 
safety  in  the  open  air,  and  to  the  escape  from  the  noxious 
influences  of  a  long  winter  residence  in  close  and  heated 
rooms,  rather  than  to  any  specific  curative  influence  of  the 
climate,  thei*e  is  no  doubt. 

"  That  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of  delicate  people 
with  an  inherited  or  acquired  proclivity  to  consumption,  and 
many  cases  even  of  the  actual  incipient  development  of  the 
disease  in  the  more  northern  sections  of  the  United  States, 
and  to  a  more  limited  yet  appreciable  extent  even  in  this 
section  (where  our  winters  are  characterized  by  frequent 
northeastern  storms  of  rain,  alternating  Avith  sharp  north- 
western winds),  may  have  their  terms  of  life  greatly  pro- 
longed, and  in  a  large  proportion  of  cases  escape  a  fatal 
result  from  the  disease,  by  a  permanent  removal  to,  or  a 
residence  for  the  entire  cold  season  in,  the  State  of  Florida, 
upon  the  principle  already  alluded  to,  and  to  a  much  greater 
degree,  and  possibly  to  some  extent  to  an  additional  cura- 
tive influence  in  the  climate,  is  established  by  many  well- 
authenticated  instances  of  such  results,  some  of  which  the 


CLIMATE  AND  EEALTE.  191 

writer  may  undertake  to  put  upon  record,  at  some  future 
time,  if  they  can  be  gathered  up  in  proper  i)rofessional 
form. 

"As  to  the  result,  however,  of  the  plan  adopted  by 
most  persons  of  spending  a  few  weeks  or  months  in  Flori- 
da, and  especially  of  deferring  their  departure  from  in- 
hospitable climates  for  a  winter  residence  in  this  more 
genial  region  until  they  have  been  subjected  to  an  at- 
tack of  cold  or  bronchitis,  as  the  result  of  the  inclem- 
ent weather  of  the  early  winter,  and  then  returning 
in  the  months  of  spring,  when  the  climatic  changes  are 
greater  and  more  trying  than  at  any  other  period  of 
the  year,  I  have  nothing  favorable  to  say,  and  believe 
that  the  only  fair  test  of  the  influences  of  the  climate  can 
be  realized  by  spending  the  entire  cold  season,  say  from 
the  first  of  November  to  the  last  of  May,  or  by  residing 
there  the  entire  year  in  some  readily-found  locality  free 
from  malaria. 

"  And,  now  that  the  wonderful  success  of  semi-tropical 
fruit-culture  is  established  beyond  controversy,  and  a  most 
pleasant,  profitable,  and  suitable  occupation  is  found,  even 
for  the  invalid,  who  is  not  entirely  disabled,  and  with  tlje 
admirable  attractions  afforded  by  the  abounding  game  for 
hunting,  and  the  charming  small  lakes  teeming  with  fish  for 
boating  and  angling,  and  with  the  opportunity  to  almost 
literally  live  out-doors  (tlie  desideratum  for  the  consump- 
tive invalid),  with  something  constantly  to  interest,  and 
with  no  time  hanging  heavily  upon  the  hands  or  for  brood- 
ing over  disabilities,  it  would  seem  that  a  very  bonanza  of 
health,  pleasure,  and  wealth,  even  for  the  invalids,  has  been 
found. 

"  After  visiting  Florida  a  number  of  times,  and  regarding 
the  whole  State  as  more  or  less  favorable  in  the  climatic 
advantages  offered,  I  would  state  that  these  are  combined 
to  a  greater  degree  than  in  any  other  accessible  and  im- 
proved section,  in  that  poi'tion  of  the  peninsula  known  as 
South  Floridri,  and  especially  in  the  county  of  Orange, 
with  parallel  and  more  southern  counties  to  the  region  of 
Tampa  upon  the  Gulf-coast,  extending  far  into  the  interior, 
embracing  hill  and  dale  and  large  bodies  of  rolling,  majestic 
pine,  oak,  and  magnolia  forests,  and  many  beautiful,  spar- 
kling lakes,  wliich,  in  that  region  where  evaporation  from 
9 


192  FLORIDA. 

and  percolation  through  the  soil  is  very  extreme,  furnish, 
in  connection  with  tlie  soft  and  charming  breezes  from  tlie 
Gulf  or  ocean,  a  desirable  humidity  in  the  long  intervals 
between  the  rains,  characteristic  of  that  section  during  a 
large  part  of  the  yeai*,  and  to  such  extent,  specially  in  the 
winter,  as  to  constitute  it  the  '  dry  season  '  as  com])ared  to 
the  '  wet  season '  from  July  to  September,  ,  .  .  Without, 
then,  intending  to  ignore  the  advantages  of  the  winter  cli- 
mate of  the  Southern  States  generally,  and  especially  the 
piny  and  sandy  sections  of  Georgia,  the  Carolinas,  and 
Northern  and  Middle  Florida,  and  in  some  exceptional  sea- 
sons of  the  San  Antonio  regions  of  Texas,  my  advice  to  the 
invalid  seeking  a  reliable  and  genial  climate  for  the  cold 
season  is,  to  ship  from  Jacksonville  (the  point  of  steamboat 
departure  from  the  upper  or  lower  St.  John's  River,  as  you 
may  prefer  to  term  it),  two  hundred  miles  by  water,  for 
Sanford,  or  Enterprise,  on  that  magnificent  expansion  of  the 
St.  John's  called  Lake  Monroe,  at  the  head  of  large-steam- 
boat navigation.  And,  as  the  invalid  will  not  go  where  he 
can  not  find  comfortable  accommodations,  it  is  well  to  state 
that  here  and  in  the  adjacent  sections  of  park-like,  rolling 
pines  in  the  counties  of  Orange  and  Volusia,  good  hotels 
and  boarding-houses  have  already  sprung  up  where  but  a 
few  years  ago  was  a  primeval  forest.  .  .  . 

"But,  however  necessary,  attractive,  and  useful  such 
public-houses  are,  it  is  not  in  luxurious  and  crowded  hotels 
that  the  highest  conditions  for  health  anywhere,  and  espe- 
cially for  '  climate-cure,'  are  found  ;  and,  instead  of  loung- 
ing in  the  hotels  of  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine,  and  many 
other  points  of  interest  to  the  mere  pleasure-seeker  upon 
the  St.  John's  or  in  this  region,  I  would  advise,  as  an  im- 
portant factor  in  a  thorough  test  of  this  climate,  at  least  in 
diseases  of  the  lungs,  that  the  invalid  should  be  as  much 
segregated  as  possible,  and  where  practicable  that  he  should 
have  his  own  house,  however  simple  and  inexpensive  it  may 
be,  and  that  it  should  be  surrounded  by  groves,  gardens, 
and  vineyards,  as  an  interesting  and  valuable  resource  for 
both  pleasure  and  profit  to  the  health,  even  if  there  should 
be  no  occasion  for  it  to  the  pocket." 

For  more  specific  details  and  tabulated  data,  I  am  per- 
mitted to  draw  largely  upon  an  address  on  the  "  Climatol- 


CLIMATE  AN-D  EEALTH.  193 

ogy  of  Florida,"  which  Dr.  Charles  J.  Kenworthy,  Presi- 
dent of  the  Florida  Medical  Association,  delivered  at  a  re- 
cent meeting  of  that  Society.  The  address  has  since  been 
published  in  jDamphlet  form,  and  should  be  read  in  its  en- 
tirety by  those  who  would  obtain  precise  and  statistical 
information  as  to  the  climate  and  hygienic  conditions  of 
Florida  ;  but  the  following  somewhat  copious  extracts  will 
serve  to  indicate  the  general  conclusions  which  Dr.  Ken- 
worthy  has  reached,  and  the  evidence  upon  which  those 
conclusions  are  based.     He  says  : 

"  Difference  of  opinion  exists  in  the  profession  regard- 
ing the  effects  of  climate  in  the  treatment  of  pulmonary 
and  other  diseases.  Having  been  a  member  of  the  profes- 
sion for  over  the  third  of  a  century,  and  having  treated  dis- 
ease in  jirivate  practice,  as  well  as  in  scA'cral  hospitals  in 
the  United  States  and  in  other  lands,  I  have  I'cason  to  be- 
lieve that  I  am  justified  in  expressing  mine.  My  reason  for 
settling  in  this  State  was  my  wife's  health.  She  was  a  suf- 
ferer from  phthisis,  aggravated  by  a  Northern  climate. 
From  my  jDcrsonal  knowledge  of  the  climatic  advantages  of 
this  State,  acquired  by  frequent  visits,  the  first  in  1844, 1  re- 
solved upon  settling  in  Jacksonville.  As  a  result  of  change 
of  climate,  combined  with  rational  medication,  my  wife 
was  restored  to  health.  In  1849  I  was  connected  with 
Bellevue  and  Blackwell's  Island  Hospitals,  New  York,  and 
contracted  typhoid  fever  and  cholera,  followed  by  ^:)os^- 
7norterii  poisoning  ;  and  impaired  health  was  the  result. 
Tracing  my  family  history,  I  found  that  my  mother  and 
foiirteen  of  her  brothers  and  sisters  had  died  of  phthisis. 
"With  impaired  health,  a  laryngeal  affection,  and  an  heredi- 
tary predisposition  to  tuberculosis,  I  had  anything  but  a 
bright  prospect  before  me.  I  looked  to  climate  as  my 
sheet-anchor,  and  sailed  for  Australia,  and  a  dry  and  warm 
climate  improved  my  health  ;  and  to-day,  as  you  can  all  per- 
ceive, I  am  in  the  enjoyment  of  as  good  health  as  usually 
falls  to  the  lot  of  men  of  my  age.  After  a  permanent  resi- 
dence in  this  State  of  nearly  six  years,  I  am  convinced  of 
its  healthfulness  and  the  superiority  of  its  climate,  and  deem 
myself  warranted  in  expressing  an  opinion.  .  .  . 


194  FLORIDA. 

"  In  this  age  of  rapid,  cheaji,  and  comfortable  traveling, 
tlie  advantages  to  health  of  a  change  of  climate  should  he 
considered  by  every  person  suffering  from  pulmonary  or 
chronic  disease,  or  broken  health.  It  is  a  pleasant,  and  in 
many  cases  a  valuable,  remedy  if  judiciously  advised.  'It 
would  be  difficult,'  says  Sir  James  Clurk,  the  standard  au- 
thority on  climate,  '  to  point  out  the  chi'onic  complaint,  or 
even  disordered  state  of  health,  which  is  not  benefited  by 
a  timely  and  judicious  change  of  climate.'  The  diseases 
most  likely  to  be  benefited  or  cured  by  change  of  climate 
are  phthisis,  laryngeal  and  bronchial  affections,  asthma,  dis- 
order of  the  digestive  organs,  chronic  gout  and  rheumatism, 
affections  of  the  kidneys,  and  broken  health.  A  change  of 
climate  is  beneficial  to  strumous  children,  is  invaluable  dur- 
ing convalescence  from  acute  and  chronic  disease,  and  more 
especially  is  it  one  of  the  chief  resources  of  restorative  med- 
icine. 

"A  large  majority  of  patients  require  a  moderately 
warm,  dry,  and  bracing  atmosphere,  and  the  few  demand  a 
warm,  sedative  climate,  where  the  atmosphere  is  not  alone 
warm,  but  humid  ;  and  here  steps  in  that  knowledge  that 
should  be  possessed  by  medical  men  who  recommend  cli- 
matic change  as  a  remedial  agent.  A  moderately  warm, 
dry,  and  bracing  air,  with  but  few  sudden  and  great  atmos- 
pheric changes,  is  especially  adapted  to  tuberculous  disease 
in  its  early  stages,  catarrh,  chronic  bronchitis,  chronic  rheix- 
matism,  debilitating  mucous  discharges,  renal  diseases,  dys- 
pepsia, and  some  cases  of  asthma.  A  moist,  warm,  and  sed- 
ative climate  is  best  adapted  to  many  cases  of  advanced 
phthisis,  dry  asthma,  chronic  bronchitis,  accompanied  with 
great  irritalsility  of  the  pulmonary  mucous  membrane,  and 
a  hard,  dry  cough.  The  particular  locality,  or  what  climate 
shall  be  chosen  for  a  winter  resort  in  any  given  case,  is  a 
matter  of  great  importance,  and  should  not  be  based  on 
this  or  that  letter  or  publication.  Facts,  figures,  experience, 
and  favorable  factoi's  of  climate  should  determine  the  ques- 
tion. An  error  in  this  direction  may  be  fatal,  and,  before  a 
physician  advises  a  patient  to  resort  to  any  particular  local- 
ity, he  should  carefully  investigate  each  particular  case, 
arrive  at  a  correct  diagnosis,  and  familiarize  himself  with 
the  factors  of  each  winter  resort.  Many  an  invalid  who 
would  be  restored  to  comparative  health,  or  at  least  survive 


CLIMATE  AND  UEALTE.  195 

for  years,  if  lie  wintered  in  a  temperate  climate,  is  sent  to 
a  region  where  zero  is  frequently  reached,  where  atmos- 
pheric changes  are  frequent  and  great,  and  where  the  pa- 
tient is  confined  to  heated  rooms  for  days  together,  and 
debarred  from  taking  exercise  and  enjoying  the  health- 
giving  influence  of  sunlight  and  pure  air.  Others  are 
sent  to  a  warm  and  relaxing  climate,  when  they  require 
a  temperate,  dry,  and  bracing  one.  Fashion  and  the 
influence  of  some  leading  physician  have  much  to  do  with 
this. 

"In  this  active  business  country,  Ave  find  many  persons 
who  have  been  overworked,  and  present  a  breach  in  the 
chain  of  those  vital  processes  whose  continuity  constitutes 
health — a  condition  popularly  known  as  '  broken  health.' 
...  In  Florida,  the  worn-out  man  of  business,  suffering 
from  *  broken  health,'  will  find  the  necessary  relaxation  from 
'  brain-fag,'  opportunities  to  take  out-door  exercise,  plenty 
of  sunshine,  pure  and  bracing  air,  and  other  necessary  ad- 
juncts to  relieve  a  condition  affecting  the  many.  In  this 
connection,  I  can  not  refrain  from  refei"ring  to  what  I  con- 
sider an  important  fact.  From  my  observations  in  the 
United  States  and  in  foreign  lands,  and  in  hospital  as  well 
as  private  practice,  I  have  been  forced  to  notice  the  infre- 
quency  of  chronic  disease  and  broken  health  in  Florida. 
In  my  visits  to  various  portions  of  this  State,  I  have  met 
with  many  persons,  old  and  young,  who  live  from  year  to 
year  on  improper  food,  and  who  drink  water  from  shallow 
holes,  near  marshes,  and  yet,  singular  to  say  (although  such 
persons  are  somewhat  anaemic),  they  do  not  present  any 
manifest  diseased  condition.  In  cities,  towns,  villages,  and 
rural  districts,  where  residents  are  supplied  with  proper 
food  and  drink  pure  water,  a  case  of  chronic  disease  or 
broken  health  is  seldom  met  with.  And  if  we  have  a  cli- 
mate in  which  these  conditions  rarely  occur,  are  we  not  jus- 
tified in  concluding  that  it  will  exert  a  powerful  influence 
in  restoring  the  invalid  to  health  ?  As  most  of  you  are 
aAvare,  I  have,  at  various  times,  visited  many  portiojis  of 
the  State,  and  have  been  surprised  to  meet  so  many  persons 
who  have  settled  in  it  as  invalids  and  have  been  restored  to 
health  or  comparative  comfort  by  the  climate — a  large  pro- 
portion of  them  having  been  sufferers  from  pulmonary  dis- 
eases.    And  what  surprised  me  most  was  the  fact  that  none 


106  FLORIDA. 

of  tlieir  offspring  manifested  any  constitutional  predisposi- 
tion to  pulmonary  disease.  Independent  of  uterine  diseases 
among  females,  so  common  in  every  civilized  country,  and 
constitutional  syphilis  among  colored  jieople,  I  will  ask  you 
if  your  ex])erience  will  not  bear  out  my  statement,  and  if 
your  practice  among  residents  is  not  almost  exclusively  con- 
fined to  acute  and  not  chronic  disease  and  broken  health  ? 
If  this  is  a  fact,  it  would  appear  that  the  climate  is  pecul- 
iarly adapted  to  the  cure  of  such  conditions,  and  have  we 
not  a  potent  agent  to  use,  and,  if  used  aright,  to  benefit  suf- 
fering humanity  ?  .  ,  . 

"  The  word  climate,  in  its  common  signification,  indi- 
cates a  region  bounded  by  certain  arbitrary  lines,  but  in 
medicine  it  possesses  a  wider  meaning.  The  effect  of  cli- 
mate upon  the  human  system  is  the  sum  of  the  influences 
which  are  connected  with  many  factors.  The  climate  of 
any  locality,  professionally  speaking,  dejjcnds  upon  its  tem- 
perature, atmospheric  vicissitudes,  prevailing  winds,  humid- 
ity, its  elevation  above  the  sea-level,  its  proximity  to  the 
ocean  or  oceanic  currents,  its  contiguity  to  mountains, 
lakes,  rivers,  arid  areas,  soil,  drainage,  vegetable  produc- 
tions, malaria,  general  sanitation,  and  other  factors,  which 
wo  shall  briefly  consider.  .  .  . 

"  Temperature  is  an  important  factor  in  climate,  and  a 
very  large  proportion  of  the  profession,  who  have  made  a 
special  study  of  pulmonary  diseases,  advocate  a  dry,  sunny, 
and  temperate  climate  for  their  successful  treatment.  In 
view  of  the  great  dissemination  of  phthisis  throughout  all 
zones,  and  the  marked  percentage  of  mortality  ('  nearly 
two  sevenths  of  all  deaths  resulting  from  this  disease '),  it 
is  exceedingly  important  that  correct  opinions  should  pre- 
vail with  regard  to  its  treatment.  The  importance  of 
laboring  to  check  this  disease  and  limit  its  mortality  is  an 
urgent  necesssity,  more  especially  when  there  is  a  growing 
demand  for  more  attention  to  the  preservation  of  health, 
and  when  the  conviction  is  gaining  gi'ound  that  this  is  an 
important  function  of  medical  science. 

"  The  modern  professional  view  that  a  temperate,  dry, 
and  sunny  clime  is  best  adapted  to  the  treatment  of  a  large 
proportion  of  pulmonary  diseases  is  one  of  the  most  valua- 
ble conti'ibutions  that  modern  science  has  made  in  the  treat- 
ment of  such  diseases.     It  may  be  stated,  as  a  general  rule. 


CLIMATE  AXD  HEALTH. 


197 


that  pulmonary  diseases  are  more  frequent  in  cold  and 
changeable  climates  than  in  those  that  are  moderately 
warm  and  dry.  The  climatologieal  distribution  of  pulmo- 
nary diseases  in  the  United  States  is  illustrated  by  the  fol- 
lowing table  from  Blodgett's  '  Climatology  '  : 


STATES. 

Deaths  by 
phthisis. 

Per  cent. 

of  entire 
mortality. 

Deaths  by 

disease 

of  respirator)' 

organs. 

Per  cent, 
of  entire 
mortality. 

Maine 

1,702 
924 
Tol 

3,426 
968 
470 

7,890 
915 

3,520 
118 

1,101 

1,616 

562 

269 

270 

43 

22-4 

21-84 

24-09 

17-65 

16-75 

20-92 

17-04 

14-15 

12-33 

9-76 

11-44 

8-48 

5-83 

3-34 

2-80 

4-61 

2,074 
1,092 

884 
4,418 
1,280 

572 

10,846 

1,176 

4,821 

185 
1,679 
3,540 
1,688 
1,343 
1,334 

108 

27-35 

New  Hampshire 

25-82 

Vermont 

28-24 

Massachusetts 

22-77 

Connecticut    

Rhode  Island 

22-31 
25  -  52 

New  York 

23-42 

New  Jersey 

18-19 

16-80 

Delaware 

15-30 

Maryland 

17-34 

18-56 

16-60 

South  Carolina 

16-69 

Gcortiia 

13-44 

Florida 

11-60 

"  The  above  figures  do  not  properly  represent  the  mortal- 
ity from  phthisis  originating  in  this  State,  for  they  do  not 
indicate  the  ntxmber  of  deaths  occurring  among  invalids 
who  came  to  the  State  in  the  last  and  incurable  stages  of 
phthisis.  '  From  the  United  States  census  tables  and 
other  statistics,  the  fact  is  developed  that  phthisis  in  the 
United  States  progressively  decreases  from  Maine  to  Flori- 
da. Dr.  Lawson,  Surgeon -General  United  States  Army, 
sets  down  the  mortality  from  tubercular  consumption  as 
three  times  greater  in  the  Northern  than  in  the  Southern 
States.' 

"  To  illustrate  one  important  factor  of  climate — temper- 
ature— I  shall  (piote  from  the  official  records  of  the  Signal 
Service  of  the  United  States  Army  for  the  months  of  Xo- 
vembcr,  December,  January,  February,  and  March,  regard- 
ing the  tempez'ature  of  certain  points  reconmiended  as 
health  resorts  : 


198 


FLORIDA. 


LOCALITY. 


Cannes,  Mediterranean. .  .  . 

Nice,  Mediterranean 

Mentone,  Mediterranean..  . 

Js'ervi,  Mediterranean 

Nassau,  New  Providence. . 
Atlantic  City,  New  Jersey. 
Augusta,  northern  Georgia 
l?reckenridgc,  Minnesota. . 

Duluth,  Minnesota 

St.  Paul,  Minnesota 

Key  West,  Florida 

Punta  Rassa,  Florida 

Jacksonville,  Floiida 

Aiken,  South  Carolina. . . . 
Los  Angeles,  Calii'ornla. . . 


!Z5 
54-6° 

55-2 
55-2 
75-7 
45-3 
54-9 
17-3 
28-8 
28-3 
74-5 
69-7 
62-1 
54-7 
G2-1 


48-8' 
48-5 
50-5 
47-8 
72-3 
35-3 
47-6 
13-4 
21-6 
20-0 
70'5 
64-8 
55-8 
4G-7 
55-3 


3 

a 

CI 

48-5° 

49-4° 

47-0 

48-4 

48-8 

50-4 

40-2 

47-8 

72-2 

71-9 

32-2 

33-2 

48- 1 

49-6 

0-8 

13-1 

12-4 

19.2 

13-0 

19  4 

7(.)-5 

71-7 

65-5 

65-9 

56-2 

'50-9 

4(5-4 

47-5 

54-1 

Cl-0 

52-8"  50-8' 
51-8   '49-9 


53-4 
49-0 
74-4 
37-1 
57-0 
18-9 
25-7 
27-6 
73-8 
(J9-8 
62-7 
5G-4 
55'8 


51-6 
j49-2 

73-3 
'36-6 
51-4 
13-9 
i21-5 
'21-7 
,72-2 
G7-1 
;5,S-7 
!5U-3 
'5G-3 


"As  tbcrmometric  range  is  a  matter  of  great  import- 
ance in  the  causation  and  treatment  of  disease,  more  espe- 
cially pidmonary  affections,  we  will  give  the  ranges  for 
the  cold  months  at  a  few  points  recommended  as  winter 
resorts  : 


LOCALITY. 


s     -^ 


Atlantic  City,  New  Jersey 

Augusta,  Georgia 

Minnesota,  three  stations 
I'lorida,  three  stations. . . 
Colorado,  two  stations. . . 
Los  Angeles,  California. . 


^ 

o 

>> 

^ 

o 

o 

S 

c 

x: 

a 

>* 

Sq 

48° 

48° 

f^ 

S 

4 

45° 

48° 

46° 

4 

49 

49 

51 

48 

50 

4 

70 

63 

57 

58 

58 

4 

85 

37 

35, 

33 

35 

4&2 

G8 

70 

72* 

58 

66 

1 

41 

41. 

35 

30 

35 

47° 

49 

61 

35 

67 

87 


"  To  illustrate  thermal  ranges  for  one  year,  we  shall 
quote  from  the  work  of  Dr.  Denison,  and  add  ranges  for 
Florida  obtained  from  Signal  Service  Reports  for  corre- 
sponding period  : 


CLIMATE  AND  HEALTH. 


199 


LOCALITY. 


Atlantic  City,  New  Jersey 

Norfolk,  Virginia 

St.  Louis,  Misjioui'i 

Cheyenne,  Wyoming 

Denver,  Colorado 

Colorado  Springs 

Florida  Peninsula 


Mean 
monthly 

range. 

Kanpe  of 
luouthly 
means. 

441=' 

Annual 
nivaus. 

41-0° 

49-7° 

44  0 

40-7 

57-3 

53-0 

57-4 

54-2 

61-5 

48-9 

43-6 

60-5 

53-7 

49-2 

63-5 

47-7 

46-8 

29-7 

19-2 

73-4 

Annual 

rauL'o. 


89-5° 
89-5 
117-0 
13G-0 
1310 
123-0 
50-0 


"  In  forming  an  opinion  regarding  climates,  many  fac- 
tors must  be  considered,  and  altitude  is  of  less  importance 
than  temperature,  prevailing  winds,  dry  soil,  and  a  low 
mean  relative  humidity.  '  With  regard  to  the  tem])erature 
of  the  air,  it  is  absolutely  certain,'  says  Professor  Buhl,  'that 
it  is  not  the  mean  temperature  of  a  place  which  regulates 
the  frequency  of  catarrh  or  phthisis,  but  only  the  larger, 
sudden,  and  oft-recurring  vacillations  of  ternpercdure,  which 
the  compensatory  power  of  our  body  is  unable  to  resist. 
Therefore  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  its  rapid  vacilla- 
tions must  be  regarded  as  exciting  causes  of  inflammatory 
phthisis.'  Atmosphei-ic  changes  in  the  North  and  West 
are  sudden  and  great  ;  but  in  Florida  they  are  infrequent 
and  not  extreme.  At  times,  what  are  called  'cold  snaps' 
occur,  but  their  visits  are  infrequent,  and  they  seldom  last 
over  one,  two,  or  three  days  ;  and  at  any  time  the  invalid 
can  take  exercise  out-of-doors  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 
Owing  to  the  low  level  of  the  land,  the  absence  of  snow  and 
ice,  and  the  warmth  of  the  soil  for  a  long  distance  to  the 
north  and  west  of  this  State,  and  the  influence  of  the  winds 
from  the  Gulf,  the  northerly  and  westerly  winds  are  modi- 
fied and  robbed  of  their  harshness  and  refrigex-ating  effects 
before  they  reach  Florida,  and  as  a  consequence  they  do  not 
exert  the  same  injurious  influence  that  they  do  at  points 
to  the  north  and  west  of  this  State.  In  reply  to  my  circu- 
lar letter,  that  accomplished  observer  aiul  meteorologist, 
Dr.  Baldwin,  who  has  been  in  practice  in  this  city  for  over 
forty  years,  remarks  :  '  Stormy  Aveather  here  is  compara- 
tively I'are,  sustaining  a  proportion  of  al)out  one  storm  here 
to  ten  at  the  North  and  Northwest.  The  air  here  is  re- 
markable for  its  purity,  and  the  temperature  renders  it  pos- 


200  FLORIDA. 

sible  for  the  patients  to  take  out-door  exercise,  so  as  to  in- 
spire the  pure  air,' 

"  The  subject  of  winds  is  a  matter  of  importance  in  esti- 
mating the  adaptability  of  any  climate  as  a  health  resort. 
The  prevailing  winds  for  the  five  cold  months  in  Miimesota 
are  from  the  north,  northwest,  and  west.  A  reference  to 
the  Signal  Service  Reports  shows  that  four  hundred  and 
fifty-three  observations  were  taken  during  November,  De- 
cember, January,  February,  and  March,  at  three  stations 
in  Minnesota,  and  north,  northwest,  and  west  winds  were 
found  blowing  from  these  points  one  hundred  and  ninety 
times.  During  the  same  period,  and  as  a  result  of  a  simi- 
lar number  of  observations  at  three  stations  in  East  Florida, 
the  wind  was  found  blowing  from  the  east,  southeast,  and 
northeast,  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  times.  All  are 
aware  of  the  refrigerating  effects  of  northerly  and  westerly 
winds  in  the  North  and  West,  and  that  during  their  con- 
tinuance a  majority  of  invalids  must  of  necessity  be  con- 
fined to  the  house.  The  Appalachians  interfere,  to  a  great 
extent,  with  the  course  of  northerly  and  westerly  winds, 
and  by  the  time  they  reach  this  favored  land  they  are  robbed 
of  their  injurious  influences.  At  times  these  winds  affect 
the  northern  and  western  poi'tions  of  the  State,  and  several 
times  during  the  winter  slight  frosts  may  occur.  During 
some  winters  the  mercury  does  not  reach  32^  Fahr.  ;  as  evi- 
dence of  this,  I  need  but  refer  to  the  fact  that  the  lowest 
temperature  in  this  locality  during  the  past  winter  was  34°. 

"  Easterly  Avinds  have  a  bad  reputation.  ...  In  one 
section  of  the  world,  at  least,  easterly  winds  are  not  objec- 
tionable, and  this  is  in  Florida.  On  the  peninsula,  easterly 
winds  are  the  prevailing  ones  in  the  cold  months.  During 
November,  December,  January,  Februaiy,  and  March,  at 
thx-ee  stations  in  East  Florida,  easterly  winds,  east,  north- 
east, and  southeast,  were  found  blowing  at  two  hundred 
and  twenty-four  observations.  Owing  to  the  proximity  of 
the  Gulf  Sti'eam,  with  its  vast  volume  of  heated  water  to 
the  east  of  the  coast,  the  easterly  winds  are  robbed  of  the 
harsh  and  searching  properties  which  characterize  them  in 
most  localities.  As  an  evidence  of  the  influence  of  the 
Gulf  Stream,  thousands  of  miles  from  Florida,  even  after 
it  has  parted  with  much  of  its  warmth,  we  need  but  refer 
to  its  effects  in  modifying  the  climate  of  the  south  of  Eng- 


CLIMATE  AA^'D  HEALTH. 


201 


land  and  France.  However  objectionable  easterly  winds 
may  be  in  other  sections,  in  this  evergreen  State  they  are 
the  opposite. 

"  Precipitation  of  moisture,  in  the  form  of  snow  and 
rain,  is  a  subject  worth  consideration  by  the  invalid.  In 
the  North  and  Northwest  the  presence  of  snow  renders  the 
taking  of  exercise  a  laborious  and  unpleasant  occupation  ; 
and  when  it  melts,  and  assumes  the  form  of  slush,  walking 
entails  the  risk  of  wet  feet,  colds,  and  inflammatory  affec- 
tions of  the  lungs.  In  Florida,  the  winter  is  the  dry  sea- 
son, and  rains  are  infrequent.  Owing  to  the  character  of 
the  soil  in  a  majority  of  places,  the  rain  is  absorbed  as 
rapidly  as  it  falls,  and  within  a  few  minutes  after  a  shower 
an  invalid  can  walk  out  without  incurring  the  danger  of 
wetting  the  soles  of  his  shoes. 

"  One  of  the  most  important  factors  of  climate  in  the 
treatment  of  disease,  and  more  especially  affections  of  the 
respiratory  organs,  is  a  dry  climate  ;  and,  under  the  bare 
supposition  that  this  or  that  is  a  dry  climate,  invalids  are 
fi'equently  consigned  to  an  unsuitable  locality.  By  some 
peculiar  process  of  reasoning,  the  masses  have  arrived  at 
the  conclusion  that  all  cold  or  elevated  localities  possess 
dry  climates.  But  an  un))rejudiced  examination  of  the  sub- 
ject will  soon  dispel  the  illusion.  .  .  . 

ME  AX    RELATIVE    HUMIDITY. 


LOCALITY. 


Mentone  and  Cannes 

Nassau,  New  rrovulenoo. . 
Atlantic  City,  Xew  Jersey. 
Brcekeniidtre,  Minnesota. . 

Dulutli,  Minnesota 

St.  Paul,  ^linnesota 

Piinta  Rassa,  Florida 

Key  West,  Florida 

Jacksonville,  Florida 

Augusta,  Georgia 

liismarek,  Dakota 

Boston,  Massachusetts. . .  . 


per  ct.  per  ct. 
!  71-81  74-2 


7t5-l 
70-9 
76-9 
74-0 
70-3 
72-7 
'77-1 
71-9 
71-8 
76-6 
68-0 


72-0 
73-1 
83-2 
721 
73-5 
73-2 
78-7 
G9-3 
72-6 
7G-4 
61-8 


per  ct. 
720 
77-0 
80-6 
7()-8 
72-7 
75-2 
74-2 
78-9 
70-2 
73-0 
77-4 
06  G 


ppr  ct. 
70-7 
72-5 
77-3 


per  ct.  i)cr  ct.    per  ct. 
73-3     72-4  ; 
G8-4    73-2  i 
76-8 


78-1 


81  8 

79-5 

79-G 

[... 

73-3 

71-0 

72T. 

70-7 

67  1 

71-3 

\ 

73-7 

fi9-9 

72-7 

\-.. 

77-2 

72-2 

7  ITS 

68-5 

03-9 

68-S 

\ 

64-7 

62-8 

GS-9 

81-6 

70-6 

7G-5 

G8-2 

63-7 

05-0 

202  FLORIDA. 

"  To  place  the  subject  of  mean  relative  humidity  in  a 
clear  and  unmistakable  light,  we  shall  freely  use  the  mate- 
rial furnished  by  the  Signal  Service  Re])orts,  and  not  use 
data  of  private  individuals,  which  are  not  always  reliable, 
I  will  simply  remark  that,  when  the  atmosphere  is  saturated 
with  moisture,  it  is  said  to  contain  one  hundred  per  cent., 
when  one-half  or  one-quarter  saturated,  fifty  or  tAventy- 
five  per  cent.,  and,  w^hen. absolutely  dry,  0. 

"...  Among  the  factors  on  which  the  development 
and  progress  of  pulmonary  diseases  certainly  depend, 
dampness  of  soil  is  an  important  one,  and  merits  the  con- 
sideration of  physician  and  patient.  .  .  .  Dry,  sandy,  or 
gravelly  soils,  at  a  sufficient  elevation  to  insure  perfect 
drainage,  wall  be,  cceteris  paribus,  more  healthy  than  a 
cold,  clayey  soil,  or  even  a  sandy  soil,  with  water  near  the 
surface  at  a  higher  elevation.  And,  before  a  physician 
advises  a  patient  to  visit  a  given  winter  resort,  he  should 
acquaint  himself  with  the  peculiarities  of  the  locality  as 
regards  soil  and  moisture  ;  for  if  a  cold,  moist  soil  is  pro- 
ductive of  disease,  a  locality  where  such  soil  exists  can  not 
be  favorable  for  the  invalid,  and  should  be  avoided.  Dr. 
Jones,  of  St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  says  that  '  those  localities 
only  should  be  recommended  where  the  soil  is  sandy,  or 
highly  pervious  to  water,  and  where  rainfall  is  rapidly  ab- 
sorbed.' These  conditions  exist  to  a  marked  degree  in  a 
large  portion  of  this  State  ;  hence  its  advantages  as  a  cli- 
matic resort. 

"  Malaria  is  a  subject  which  enters  into  the  discussion 
of  all  southern  climes,  and  we  unhesitatingly  assert  that 
Florida  has  been  misrepresented  in  this  respect.  '  It  is  the 
custom,'  remarks  Dr.  Lente  (page  21),  '  of  many  persons  liv- 
ing at  Florida  resorts,  off  the  St.  John's  River,  to  represent 
for  obvious  reasons  that  fever  prevails  there  the  year  round, 
and  that  it  is  dangerous  to  resort  to  it  at  any  time.  In  this 
manner  they  have  excited  senseless  alarm  in  the  minds  of 
those  proposing  to  come  to  Florida,  and  have  diverted  them 
to  other  Southern  resorts,  thus  in  the  end  injuring  them- 
selves as  well  as  others.'  Unprincipled  hotel-keepers  and 
runners,  and  the  agents  of  steamboat  and  railroad  lines 
leading  to  other  localities,  aid  more  or  less  in  this  fraudu- 
lent attempt  to  gain  patronage.  The  bugbear  malaria  is, 
in  my  humble  o])inion,  a  prolific  source  of  disease  among 


CLIMATE  AND  EEALTE.  203 

visitors  to  Florida.  By  misrepresentations  (to  use  a  mild 
term)  tourists  and  invalids  have  been  led  to  believe  that 
the  entire  water-supply  is  productive  of  disease,  and  as  a 
consequence  they  refrain  from  drinking  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  water,  or  dilute  it  with  poor  whisky  or  brandy,  to 
counteract  its  bad  effects.  Interested  parties  have  expa- 
tiated so  much  with  regard  to  the  air  being  charged  with 
malaria  in  winter,  that  invalids  and  patients  become 
alarmed,  and  as  a  sequence  they  daily  swallow  quinine,  and 
thereby  produce  nervous  or  functional  derangements.  They 
keep  the  pure  air  out  of  their  rooms,  breathe  an  air  con- 
taminated with  their  own  breaths  and  exhalations,  and  at 
night  assemble  in  halls  and  parlors  and  inhale  vitiated  air 
poisoned  by  their  own  breaths,  and  the  elements  resulting 
from  the  combustion  of  coal-gas  and  kerosene.  They  in- 
hale, for  hours  at  a  time,  air  charged  with  carbonic  acid, 
and  shun  the  pure  night  air  as  they  would  the  emanations 
of  the  deadly  upas-tree.  Visitors  act  imprudently,  and  as 
a  consequence  suffer  from  nervous  derangements,  colds, 
and  diarrhoeas,  which  they  attribute  to  malaria  or  the  cli- 
mate. The  cause  of  slight  indispositions  affecting  visitors, 
is  not  malaria,  but  indulgence  at  table,  change  of  drinking- 
water,  eating  excessive  quantities  of  fruit,  or  the  inhalation 
of  air  poisoned  by  human  breaths,  or  the  resultants  of  the 
combustion  of  coal-gas  and  kerosene,  and  a  deficiency  of 
the  pure  air  that  a  beneticent  Creator  has  placed  every- 
where within  their  reach.  If  visitors  would  let  quinine  and 
arsenical  pills  alone,  control  their  appetites,  eat  moderately, 
inhale  plenty  of  the  salubrious  air  of  the  State,  and  not 
swelter  in  heated  halls,  parlors,  and  unventilated  bedrooms, 
we  should  hear  less  of  the  bugbear  malaria.  At  various 
times  since  1844,  I  have  navigated  the  larger  streams  of 
this  State,  visited  the  Everglades  and  Lake  Okechobee,  and 
almost  every  bay,  inlet,  and  river,  from  Cape  Sable  to  the 
Suwanee  River,  and  for  over  two  months  at  a  time  slept  in 
an  open  boat,  with  nothing  but  a  simple  awning  stretched 
over  the  boat's  boom,  and  in  no  instance  did  my  compan- 
ions or  self  suffer  from  malaria  or  a  chill,  I>efore  I  became 
a  resident  of  the  State,  my  companions  aiid  self  were  unac- 
climated,  and  in  no  instance  were  we  so  foolish  as  to  swal- 
low quinine,  arsenic,  or  alcoholic  liquors  as  antidotes  to  ma- 
laria or  chills.     I  speak  from  personal  observation,  experi- 


204:  FLORIDA. 

ence,  and  extended  inquiry  in  various  portions  of  the  State, 
and  I  unhesitatingly  assert  that  the  opinion  entertained 
with  regard  to  the  prevalence  of  malaria  during  the  cold 
months  in  Florida  is  unfounded.  .  .  . 

"  From  my  observations  from  Canada  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  I  am" convinced  that  febrile  diseases  assume  a  mild- 
er form,  and  are  more  easily  cured,  in  Florida  than  in  States 
to  the  north  of  it,  I  shall  no  doubt.be  met  with  the  reply, 
'  Look  at  the  waxy  comj^lexions  and  gaunt  forms  of  many 
Floridians,  met  with  at  some  of  the  landings  and  depots.' 
I  admit  the  mild  impeachment,  and  can  attribute  their  ca- 
chectic condition  to  bad  water,  insufficient  clothing,  unsuit- 
able and  uncomfortable  habitations,  and  the  improper  food 
they  eat  from  childhood  to  the  grave.  In  any  other  State 
but  Florida,  they  would  be  the  victims  of  enlarged  spleens, 
cardiac  dilatation,  chi*onic  gastritis,  tuberculosis,  dropsical 
effusions,  or  albuminuria.  But  contrast  the  natives  referred 
to  with  those  who  have  comfortable  homes,  sufficient  cloth- 
ing, and  who  drink  pure  water  and  use  good  and  nutritious 
food  ;  or  Avith  Northern  and  Western  people  who  have  been 
in  the  State  for  years,  and  the  latter  will  be  found  to  be 
pictures  of  health.  I  admit  that  in  Florida,  as  everywhere 
else,  there  are  insalubx'ious  localities,  but  they  should  be 
avoided  by  strangers.  But,  to  avoid  them,  interested  par- 
ties should  not  listen  to  the  senseless  twaddle  of  irrespon- 
sible hotel-keepers,  hotel,  steamboat,  and  railroad  runners, 
or  strangers  suffering  from  a  severe  attack  of  aerophobia. 
A  majority  of  the  cases  of  illness  occurring  among  visitors 
in  this  State,  are  referable  to  indulgence  at  table,  drinking 
impure  water,  the  inhalation  of  impure  air,  the  American 
weakness  of  rushing  hither  and  thither,  occupation  of  un- 
ventilated  rooms,  and  a  ridiculous  system  of  senseless  drug- 
ging indulged  in  by  strangers,  as  a  consequence  of  the  ad- 
vice given  by  physicians  who  are  ignorant  of  the  climate 
and  its  diseases.  .  .  . 

"  Considering  climatic  factors,  as  a  result  of  experience, 
observation,  investigation,  and  study,  we  are  convinced  that 
Florida  presents  more  attractions  and  advantages  as  a  win- 
ter resort  for  invalids  than  any  State  in  the  Union.  The 
temperature  is  favorable,  the  mean  relative  Jiumidity  is  pe- 
culiarly adapted  to  the  treatment  of  all  forms  of  pulmonary 
disease,  the  air  is  salubrious,  and  in  a  large  portion  of  the 


CLIMATE  AND  HEALTH.  205 

State  dry  and  bracing  ;  atmospheric  changes  are  infrequent, 
and  not  so  great  as  in  other  sections  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Rains  are  infrequent,  and  sunshine  and  fine 
weather  the  rule.  The  State  possesses  insular,  interior,  dry, 
and  moist  localities,  semi-tropical  and  cooler  sections  ;  and 
if  the  nature  of  any  given  case  should  necessitate  a  chauge 
of  base,  a  suitable  climate  can  be  reached  in  a  few  hours 
and  at  a  trifling  expense. 

"  For  fear  of  being  accused  of  painting  Florida  in  too 
bright  colors,  we  shall  use  the  language  of  others  : 

"  Dr.  Charles  A.  Lee,  the  learned  editor  of  Copeland's 
'  Medical  Dictionary,'  remarks  :  '  Proceeding  south  from 
Canada  to  Florida,  the  seasons  become  more  uniform  in 
proportion  as  their  annual  temperature  increases,  and  they 
glide  imperceptibly  into  each  other,  exhibiting  no  great 
extremes.  Compared  with  the  other  regions  of  the  United 
States,  the  Peninsula  of  Florida  has  a  climate  wholly  pecul- 
iar. The  climate  is  so  exceedingly  mild  and  uniform,  that 
besides  the  vegetable  productions  of  the  Northern  States 
generally,  many  of  a  tropical  character  are  produced.  We 
have  already  spoken  of  the  mildness  of  the  climate  of  this 
region  ;  it  appears  to  possess  an  insular  temperature  not 
less  equable  and  salubrious  in  winter  than  that  afforded  by 
the  south  of  Europe,  and  is,  therefore,  well  adapted  to 
those  forms  of  pulmonary  disease,  as  bronchitis  and  incipi- 
ent phthisis,  as  are  benefited  by  a  mild  climate.  3Iildness 
and  tiniformitu  are  the  tAvo  distinguishing  characteristics 
of  the  Florida  Peninsula.  If  we  compare  the  climate  of 
East  Florida  with  the  most  favored  situations  on  the  Con- 
tinent of  Europe,  and  the  islands  held  in  the  highest  esti- 
mation for  mildness  and  equability  of  temperature,  in  re- 
gard to  the  mean  temperature  of  winter  and  sixmmer,  that 
of  the  warmest  and  coldest  months,  and  that  of  successive 
seasons,  we  shall  find  the  results  generally  in  favor  of  the 
former.'  After  citing  the  mean  difference  of  successive 
months  and  annual  range  of  a  number  of  climatic  resorts  in 
comparison  with  stations  in  Florida,  he  remarks  :  '  Thus  it 
is  easily  demonstrated  that  invalids  requiring  a  mild  winter 
residence  have  gone  to  foreign  lands  in  search  of  what 
might  be  found  at  home — an  evergreen  land,  in  which  wild 
flowers  never  cease  to  unfold  their  petals.' 

"In  discussing  the  most  suitable  climates  for  invalids. 


206  FLORIDA. 

Dr.  Wilson,  late  Medical  Inspector  of  Camps  and  Hospitals, 
United  States  Army,  remarks  :  '  Neither  npon  the  south- 
ern coast  of  France,  nor  anywhere  under  the  bright  Italian 
skies,  can  a  winter  climate  be  found  so  equable  and  so  ge- 
nial to  the  delicate  nerves  of  most  invalids  as  can  be  en- 
joyed in  our  sanitary  stations  in  Florida.' 

"  Dr.  II.  A.  Johnson,  of  Chicago,  states  :  *  I  had  about 
fifty  patients  last  winter  in  Florida  and  Georgia,  and  they 
came  back  better.  Even  those  in  whose  lungs  cavities  ex- 
isted, were  better  than  they  would  have  been  had  they 
staid  in  Illinois.  I  will,  therefore,  advise  patients  in  the 
latter  stages  of  consumption  to  go  to  Florida.' " 

To  this  cumulation  of  evidence  and  facts  it  would  seem 
that  nothing  more  need  be  added  ;  but  the  following  sug- 
gestions, by  Dr.  D.  II.  Jacques,  of  Fernandina,  are  inserted 
because  of  their  great  practical  value  to  invalids,  and  to  all 
those  who  visit  Florida  primarily  from  considerations  of 
health  : 

"  The  error  into  which  invalids  generally  fall  lies  in  sup- 
posing that  the  benefit  to  the  health  to  be  looked  for  in  the 
South,  and  especially  in  Florida,  comes  directly  from  the 
warmth.  Now,  while  the  warmth  is,  in  itself,  a  great 
benefit  to  a  large  class  of  invalids,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
come  South  for  that  alone,  when  it  can  be  got  at  home  by 
artificial  means.  There  are  two  things,  however,  which  the 
invalid  can  not  get  at  the  North  in  winter — at  least  not  in 
their  fullness — in  connection  with  the  artificial  Avarmth  sug- 
gested,/resA  air  and  sunshine.  These  are  the  things  to 
come  South  for,  and  coming  for  these  there  will  be  no  dis- 
appointment. The  fresh  air  you  will  get  every  hour  of  the 
day  and  night.  You  can  not  shut  it  out  if  you  would.  As 
for  the  sunshine,  one  bathes  in  it,  breathes  it,  drinks  it  in  at 
every  pore,  till  it  permeates  the  whole  system  ;  and  there 
is  no  medicine  like  it.  It  is  the  invalid's  own  fault  if  he 
does  not  get  enough  of  it ;  and  to  what  end  is  the  South 
"sunny"  if  one  will  shut  himself  up  in  a  darkened  room? 
An  open-air  life  is  easy  and  pleasant  here,  the  year  round. 
The  invalid  should,  according  to  his  strength,  take  daily 
exercise  in  the  open  air.     Horseback-riding  (and  Southern 


CLIMATE  AND  HEALTH.  207 

saddle-horses  are  excellent),  walking,  boating,  hunting,  and. 
fishing  offer,  in  Florida  particularly,  diversified  recreation, 
and  the  evergreen  forests  of  live-oak  and  magnolia,  or  of 
the  majestic  long-leaved  pine,  furnish  attractive  meandering 
roads  and  bridle-paths.  Our  gardens,  too,  if  properly  kept, 
are  always  attractive,  and  there  is  no  day  in  the  year  in 
which  some  flower  may  not  be  gathered.  That  must  be  a 
lazy  person  indeed,  who,  having  the  strength  to  get  out, 
will  shut  himself  up  in  the  house  in  such  a  charming  cli- 
mate ;  and  if  one,  by  reason  of  weakness,  can  not  take  the 
exercise  recommended,  let  him  at  least  bask  in  the  glorious 
light  of  the  Southern  skies,  which  floods  the  broad  veranda 
of  every  Southern  house  and  penetrates  even  the  most 
shaded  garden- walk. 

"Another  mistake  very  generally  made  by  invalids  who 
spend  the  winter  in  the  South  is  in  returning  to  the  North 
too  early  in  the  spring.  When  the  weather  begins  to  get 
jn'etty  warm  here,  and  they  sec  the  peas  in  bloom  in  the 
garden,  and  the  Irish  potatoes  up  and  growing,  they  get 
imjjatient  to  be  at  home  ;  but  at  home  the  peas  are  still  in 
the  seed-box,  and  the  potatoes  are  safe  only  in  the  cellar. 
The  cold  winds  and  rains,  or  the  snow  and  sleet,  of  a  North- 
ern March  are  terribly  trying  to  one  who  has  spent  the 
winter  in  a  warm  climate,  and  even  April  is  often  far  too 
chilly  for  the  invalid's  health  and  comfort. 

"  With  those  who  are  aftlieted  with  diseases  of  the  lungs 
and  bronchial  tubes,  or  are  strongly  predisposed  to  consump- 
tion, the  best  and  only  safe  way  is  to  come  here  to  stay  / 
and  they  must  not  wait  too  long  before  making  up  their 
minds  and  putting  their  good  resolutions  into  practice.  De- 
lays are  generally  dangerous.  In  all  cases  like  these  they 
are  fatal. 

" '  But  the  summers  are  so  hot,  and  malarial  fevers  so 
prevalent  and  dangerous,'  the  reader  may  say.  The  re- 
mark suggests  another  point.  Here  are  two  more  popular 
errors,  and  they  are  the  complements  of  those  noted  in 
another  part  of  this  article.  The  winter  climate  is  supposed 
to  be  uniformly  warm  and  delightful,  and  to  })ossess  some 
mysterious,  hidden  healing  virtue.  Neither  of  these  as- 
sumptions is  correct.  There  are  always  brief  periods  in 
winter,  even  in  Florida,  in  which  the  weatlier  is  anything 
but  lovely,  and,  as  for  the  mysterious  hygienic  influences 


208  FLORIDA. 

prevailing  here,  they  are,  after  all,  merely  pure  air  and 
bright  sunshine.  The  supposed  extreme  heat  and  unhealth- 
fulness  of  the  summer  are  equally  imaginary.  Our  sum- 
mers, particularly  in  Florida,  are  long  and  warm,  but  in- 
stead of  being  less  comfortable  and  pleasant  than  those  of 
the  Korth,  they  are  more  so,  and  in  the  main  fully  as  de- 
lightful as  the  winters.  The  thermometer  often  marks  a 
higher  temperature  in  New  York  or  Boston  than  in  Fernan- 
dina  or  Jacksonville,  and  its  variations  are  much  greater  there 
than  here.  Our  nights,  even  in  midsummer,  are  invariably 
cool.  We  never  swelter  in  our  bedchambers,  through  the 
long  dark  hours,  but  sleep  sweetly  under  our  blankets,  with 
the  cool,  fresh  air  circulating  all  around  us. 

"  We  have  chills  and  fever  during  the  summer  and  au- 
tumn in  many  localities,  on  the  borders  of  some  of  our 
rivers,  creeks,  and  swamps,  and  sometimes  bilious  remittent 
fevers.  They  prevail  in  similar  situations  at  the  North  and 
West,  and  are  there  of  a  severer  type.  We  do  not  advise 
the  invalid  to  make  a  permanent  home  in  these  malarious 
localities  ;  and,  with  these  exceptions,  the  South  generally  is 
as  salubrious  in  summer  as  in  winter,  and  as  much  so,  to  say 
the  least,  as  any  Northern  region.  Florida  affords  localities 
without  number  perfectly  free  from  fevers  and  all  other 
diseases  of  local  origin.  These  are  found  on  her  numerous 
sea-islands  and  along  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf  coasts,  as  well 
as  on  the  more  elevated  and  naturally  drained  j^ine-lands  of 
the  interior." 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

RETEOSPECTIVE — AN^    HISTORICAL    SKETCH. 

The  discovery  of  Florida  carries  us  back  almost  to  the 
middle  ages,  and  its  fii'st  permanent  settlement  antedates 
that  of  Jamestown  by  forty-two  years  and  that  of  Plym- 
outh by  fifty-five  years.  Ko  other  portion  of  the  North 
American  Continent  has  had  so  long  and  so  varied  a  his- 
tory ;  and  for  this  reason  it  will  be  impossible  for  me  to  do 
more  here  than  give  a  rapid  outline  or  summary  of  the 
principal  events.* 

According  to  some  authorities,  Sebastian  Cabot  visited 
the  coast  of  Florida  in  1497,  only  five  years  after  the  dis- 
covery of  America  by  Columbus  ;  but  this  is  very  doubt- 
ful, and  the  received  oi^inion  among  geographers  is  that 
Cape  Hatteras  was  the  southern  limit  of  Cabot's  voyage. 
The  actual  discovery  of  Florida  is  generally  credited  to 
Ponce  de  Leon,  who,  after  subjugating  the  Island  of  Porto 
Rico,  set  out  in  search  of  a  certain  Fountain  of  Youth 
which  was  at  first  said  to  be  located  on  the  Island  of  Bi- 
mini,  and  then,  not  being  found  there,  on  another  island 
farther  away  to  the  northwest.  He  left  Porto  Rico  early 
in  1512,  and  on  the  2Tth  of  March  reached  the  coast  of 
Florida  at  a  point  a  little  north  of  the  present  site  of  St. 
Augustine.  It  was  Easter-Sunday  (called  Puscua  Florida 
in  Spanish)  when  he  made  land,  and  partly  on  this  account, 

*  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  the  chief  authority  for  tliis  cliaptcr  is  the 
excellent  "  History  of  Florida  "  by  George  R.  Fairbauks,  published  by  the 
Lippiucotts,  of  Philadelphia. 


210  FLORIDA. 

partly  because  of  the  green  and  flowery  appearance  of  the 
country,  he  gave  it  the  name  of  Florida,  and  took  posses- 
sion of  it  in  the  name  of  their  Catholic  Majesties  of  Spain. 
About  two  months  were  spent  by  Ponce  de  Leon  in  visit- 
ing different  portions  of  the  shores  of  what  he  supposed  to 
be  an  island,  and  in  exploration  of  the  interior  ;  but  he 
found  neither  the  Fountain  of  Youth  nor  any  indications 
of  the  expected  riches  ;  and  finally,  discouraged  by  his  ill 
success  and*by  the  fierce  hostility  of  the  natives,  he  aban- 
doned the  quest  and  returned  to  Porto  Rico,  where,  in 
order  to  magnify  his  discovery,  he  made  a  flattering  report 
of  its  beauty  and  richness,  and  obtained  the  title  and  privi- 
leges of  Adelantado  of  Florida,  on  condition  that  he  should 
conquer  and  colonize  the  land. 

Following  in  the  track  of  Ponce  de  Leon,  a  pilot  named 
Diego  Miruelo  visited  Florida  in  1516,  and,  having  obtained 
some  pieces  of  gold  from  the  natives,  spread  glowing  ac- 
counts of  the  country  among  his  comrades  in  Cuba.  In 
1517  Fernandez  de  Cordova  landed  upon  the  coast,  but  was 
so  vigorously  attacked  by  a  large  body  of  natives  that, 
after  losing  a  number  of  his  men,  he  returned  to  Cuba  to 
die  of  his  own  wounds.  Shortly  afterward  one  Alaminos, 
who  had  accompanied  the  previous  expedition,  made  a  de- 
scent with  three  ships,  but  was  beaten  off  by  the  vigilant 
natives  in  two  attempts  to  land.  These  disastrous  experi- 
ences appear  to  have  dampened  for  several  years  the  ardor 
of  the  Spanish  adventurers,  but  in  1520  a  rich  official  named 
De  Ayllon,  wishing  to  capture  slaves  from  among  the  Ind- 
ians, landed  at  a  point  now  in  South  Carolina  but  then  in- 
cluded in  the  limits  of  Florida,  and  having  inveigled  a 
hundred  and  thirty  of  the  natives  on  board  his  ships,  set 
sail  with  them  for  Ilispaniola,  and  thus  won  for  the  Span- 
iards the  implacable  hatred  of  all  the  Floridian  tribes.  In 
the  following  year  (1521)  Ponce  de  Leon,  aroused  by  the 
exploits  of  Cortes  in  Mexico,  set  out  to  conquer  a  new  em- 


AN  HISTORICAL  SKETCH.  211 

pire  in  Florida  ;  but  he  greatly  underestimated  the  power 
of  the  natives,  who  killed  large  numbers  of  his  followers, 
drove  the  rest  to  their  ships,  and  gave  Ponce  de  Leon  him- 
self a  wound  of  which  he  died  shortly  afterward  in  Cuba. 
Three  years  later  (1524),  De  Ayllon  made  another  slave- 
hunting  expedition  to  "  Chicora,"  but  this  time  the  natives 
beat  him  at  his  own  game,  and  having  lured  his  party  into 
an  ambuscade,  massacred  two  hundred  of  them  and  com- 
pelled the  rest  to  seek  safety  in  flight. 

For  several  years  after  these  untoward  events  the  atten- 
tion of  Spanish  adventurers  was  absorbed  by  the  splendid 
achievements  of  Cortes  ;  but  in  1528  Pamfilo  de  Narvaez, 
commissioned  to  conquer  and  govern  the  country,  set  out 
from  Spain  with  a  great  expedition  of  nearly  five  hundred 
men-at-arms  and  landed  a  little  north  of  what  is  now  known 
as  Tampa  Bay.  Aiming  at  once  to  explore  the  interior 
and  to  find  the  stores  of  precious  metals  which  he  was  con- 
vinced existed  somewhere,  he  left  the  ships  and  set  out 
with  three  hundred  men  ;  but  the  natives  were  relentlessly 
hostile,  the  long-sought  gold  was  never  found,  provisions 
were  wholly  unobtainable,  and  after  weary  wanderings  and 
unspeakable  sufferings  the  expedition  perished  almost  to  a 
man,  Narvaez  himself  having  been  blown  to  sea  during  the 
night  in  a  boat  in  which  he  was  sleeping.  The  chief  result 
of  this  expedition  was  the  narrative  of  Cabcya  da  Yaca, 
who  with  three  other  survivors  (all  who  escaped)  became 
famous  "medicine-men"  among  the  Indians,  and  after 
seven  years  made  their  way  westward  by  land  to  their 
countrymen  in  Mexico.  They  were  the  first  Europeans 
whose  eyes  ever  beheld  the  Mississippi  River,  and  ]Mr. 
Fairbanks  points  out  that  the  credit  of  this  great  discovery 
should  be  given  to  Da  Vaca  rather  than  to  De  Soto. 

After  the  ill-fated  expedition  of  Narvaez,  Florida  en- 
joyed eleven  years  of  quiet,  and  then  came  that  expedition 
of  Hernando  de  Soto  which  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in 


212  FLORIDA. 

the  early  annals  of  America.  Fresh  from  the  laurels  which 
he  had  acquired  under  Pizarro,  and  laden  with  his  share  of 
the  plunder  of  the  Incas,  De  Soto  easily  obtained  a  com- 
mission to  conquer  and  govern  Florida,  and  with  equal  ease 
secured  a  numerous  company  to  aid  him  in  the  enterprise. 
On  the  25th  of  May,  1539,  his  fleet  entered  a  bay  which  ho 
named  Espiritu  Santo  (now  Tampa  Bay),  and  disembarked 
one  thousand  men-at-arms  and  three  hundred  and  fifty 
horses.  Fired  by  stories  which  the  wily  natives  here  told 
him  of  the  rich  cities  and  "  a  great  store  of  christal,  gold, 
and  rubies,  and  diamonds  "  that  lay  to  the  northward,  De 
Soto  sent  his  vessels  back,  and  started  boldly  forth  with  his 
followers  upon  those  painful  wanderings  which  ended  only 
when  half  a  continent  had  been  traversed,  and  his  worn-out 
body  had  been  anchoi'ed  to  its  final  resting-place  beneath 
the  turbid  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  The  story  of  those 
wandei'ings  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  in  history  or  fiction, 
but  it  has  been  so  often  told  as  to  need  no  newer  version, 
and  limitation  of  space  would  prevent  anything  like  justice 
being  done  to  it  here.  Hither  and  thither  through  that 
vast  territory  which  borders  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  but  always 
bearing  westwai'd,  the  ever-dwindling  array  accompanied 
its  indomitable  leader  during  three  long  and  weary  years, 
and  then,  leaving  him  in  his  watery  grave,  the  remainder 
coasted  the  Gulf  in  improvised  boats,  and  finally  reached 
the  Spanish  settlements  in  Mexico — only  three  hundred 
and  eleven  persons  surviving  of  the  thousand  who  four 
yeai's  before  had  landed  at  the  harbor  of  Espiritu  Santo. 

Religious  zeal  originated  the  next  attempts  to  effect  a 
lodgment  in  Florida.  In  1549  four  Franciscan  fi-iars  landed 
at  Espiritu  Santo  Bay,  and  tried  to  penetrate  the  country  ; 
but  three  of  them  were  incontinently  slain  by  the  natives, 
and  the  other  one  abandoned  in  discouragement  the  attempt 
to  Christianize  unbelievers  who  backed  up  their  heresy  with 
the  hatchet.     Ten   years   later,  in    1559,  Don  Tristan    de 


AN  niSTORICAL  SKETCH.  213 

Luna  sailed  from  Vera  Cruz  with  a  great  expedition  com- 
prising fifteen  hundred  soldiers,  and  a  large  number  of 
friars  burning  with  zeal  for  the  conversion  of  the  Indians, 
and  landed  at  the  Bay  of  Pensacola  (then  called  Santa 
Maria  Bay).  Almost  at  the  outset  a  great  storm  wrecked 
the  entire  fleet  and  destroyed  a  large  part  of  the  provisions  ; 
but  De  Luna  sent  back  for  more,  marched  into  the  interior, 
encountered  the  usual  opi^osition  from  the  natives,  lost  hun- 
dreds of  his  men  by  disease,  hunger,  and  fatigue,  quarreled 
bitterly  with  his  subordinate  officers,  returned  discouraged 
to  the  Bay  of  Santa  Maria,  and  was  finally  ordered  home 
by  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  under  whose  auspices  the  expe- 
dition had  been  undertaken. 

This  abortive  enterprise  of  De  Luna's  is  noteworthy  as 
the  last  of  the  Spanish  exploring  expeditions  that  visited 
Florida,  Two  years  after  its  disastrous  end  a  party  of 
French  Huguenots  under  Jean  Ribault  came  over,  and  after 
making  land  near  St.  Augustine,  coasted  northward,  en- 
tered the  St.  John's  River  (which  they  named  the  Ma}"), 
and  established  a  short-lived  colony  at  what  is  now  Port 
Royal.  In  1564  a  larger  party  of  Huguenots  under  Rene 
de  Laudouniere  landed  at  the  present  site  of  St.  Augustine, 
had  a  friendly  interview  with  the  Indians,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded northward  to  the  St.  John's,  where  they  built  Fort 
Caroline  on  what  is  now  St.  John's  Bluff.  As  was  usually 
the  case  with  the  French  colonists  in  America,  the  Hugue- 
nots succeeded  in  establishing  amicable  relations  with  the 
Indians  ;  but  Laudouniere's  men  were  soldiers  rather  than 
workmen  ;  they  were  not  ])rudent  in  the  management  of 
their  supplies,  and  in  1565  they  woiild  have  been  compelled 
to  abandon  their  undertaking  but  for  the  timely  arrival  of 
an  English  fleet  xmder  Sir  John  Hawkins,  who  not  only 
generously  supplied  their  more  pressing  wants  but  sold  them 
a  small  vessel,  and  a  good  store  of  jiowdcr  and  ball.  Even 
this  timely  aid,   however,   did   not   dissuade  the  colonists 


214  FLORIDA. 

from  tlieir  fixed  determination  to  return  to  France  ;  but  on 
the  very  day  fixed  for  their  departure  (August  28,  15G5)  an 
expedition  that  had  been  sent  out  under  Ribault  for  their 
relief  arrived  in  the  St.  John's  with  five  hundred  men, 
besides  some  families  of  artisans. 

In  the  mean  time,  stirred  to  fresh  endeavor  by  what 
they  regarded  as  the  intrusion  of  the  French,  the  Spaniards 
had  determined  to  make  one  more  effort  to  secure  the  pos- 
sessions that  had  already  cost  them  so  dear ;  and  a  great 
expedition  under  the  command  of  Menendez,  a  naval  officer 
of  considerable  distinction,  set  sail  from  Cadiz  on  the  1st 
of  July,  15G5.  This  expedition  comprised  in  all  about 
twenty-six  hundred  persons,  and  about  two  thirds  of 
them  reached  the  coast  of  Florida,  a  little  south  of  St.  Au- 
gustine, on  the  28th  of  August,  the  same  day  that  Ribault's 
fleet  came  to  anchor  off  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's. 
Learning  from  the  Indians  of  the  presence  of  the  French, 
Menendez  coasted  northward,  and  on  the  4th  of  September 
came  in  sight  of  Ribault's  vessels,  which  immediately  put 
to  sea  and  escaped  their  assailants.  After  a  fruitless  chase 
of  the  flying  enemy,  Menendez  returned  to  St.  Augustine 
(which  he  named  in  honor  of  the  day  of  his  arrival  upon 
the  coast),  disembarked  his  forces,  and  commenced  fortify- 
ing. These  proceedings  being  reported  to  Ribault,  the  lat- 
ter gathered  all  his  available  force,  including  most  of  the 
gan-ison  of  Fort  Caroline,  and  set  sail  on  September  10th 
with  the  idea  of  attacking  Menendez  before  he  could  com- 
plete his  defenses  ;  but  a  terrible  tempest  overtook  him, 
drove  his  vessels  far  down  the  coast,  and  wrecked  them 
between  Mantanzas  and  Mosquito  Inlet. 

Suspecting  that  the  French  fleet  had  put  to  sea,  and 
that  even  if  it  had  escaped  shipwreck  several  days  must 
elapse  before  it  could  make  harbor  again,  Menendez  deter- 
mined to  attack  Fort  Caroline,  and  on  September  ITth  set 
out  overland  at  the  head  of  five  hundred  men.    Ilis  success 


A2^  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  215 

was  only  too  complete.  The  French  were  taken  by  surprise, 
and  almost  without  resistance  the  Spaniards  rushed  into  the 
fort  and  began  an  indiscriminate  massacre  which,  for  a 
time,  sjiared  not  even  women  and  children.  Only  seventy 
persons  in  all  escaped,  and  some  of  the  prisoners  were  hung 
upon  the  neighboring  trees  with  the  cynical  inscription 
over  them,  "  Not  as  Frenchmen,  but  as  Lutherans," 

Having  repaired  and  strengthened  the  fort  (which  he 
named  San  Mateo),  and  garrisoned  it  with  three  hundred 
men,  Menendez  returned  in  triumph  to  St.  Augustine,  and 
there  learned  of  the  imfortunate  position  of  the  shij)wi'ecked 
Ribault.  Proceeding  to  Mantanzas  Inlet  with  a  party  of  his 
men,  he  compelled  the  French  to  surrender,  partly  by  prom- 
ises and  partly  by  thi'cats,  and  then  when  they  wei'e  help- 
lessly at  his  mercy  had  them  cruelly  massacred  to  a  man, 
not  even  sparing  the  gallant  Ribault.  "  The  atrocity  of  the 
deed,"  says  Mr.  Fairbanks,  "  struck  all  Europe  with  horror, 
even  in  that  day  ;  and  the  shocking  story  has  been  perpet- 
uated over  three  hundred  years,  giving  the  name  of  Me- 
nendez a  stain  of  infamy  which  time  can  not  wipe  out." 

Thus  ended  in  one  of  the  bloodiest  tragedies  of  history 
the  efforts  of  the  French  to  establish  a  colony  on  the  south- 
ern coast  of  America,  and  for  many  years  the  Spaniards 
were  left  in  undisputed  possession  of  their  territory.  Not 
quite  undisturbed,  however,  for  they  soon  quarreled  with 
tiie  natives,  and  found  the  latter  very  different  antagonists 
from  those  more  effeminate  races  whom  their  countrymen 
had  encountered  in  Mexico  and  Peru.  Even  at  this  early 
date  the  Florida  Indians  exhibited  the  hardy  and  obstinate 
courage  Avhich  distinguished  them  at  a  later  period,  and 
they  kept  the  soldiers  of  Menendez  everywhere  close  shut 
up  in  their  forts.  Harassed  by  these  troubles  and  by  dis- 
affection among  his  own  men,  Menendez  exhibited  an  in- 
domitable perseverance,  and,  besides  gradually  enlarging 
and  strengthening  St.  Augustine,  established  other  posts  at 

lo' 


216  FLORIDA. 

various  points,  sent  out  several  exploring  parties,  and  se- 
cured a  foothold  in  Florida  which  was  never  afterward  lost. 
Finally,  in  the  spring  of  1507,  believing  that  the  interests 
of  the  settlements  would  be  advanced  by  his  going  to  Spain, 
he  set  sail  in  a  small  vessel  of  twenty  tons  burden  which  he 
had  caused  to  be  built. 

During  his  absence  occurred  one  of  the  most  notable  of 
all  known  instances  of  that  law  of  retributive  justice  which 
is  said  to  operate  in  human  affairs.  The  leaders  of  the 
French  nation  had  exhibited  a  singular  indifference  to  the 
sad  fate  of  Ribault  and  his  comrades,  and  the  event  ap- 
peared to  have  been  forgotten  if  not  forgiven  ;  but  in  the 
breast  of  an  obscure  captain  named  Dominic  do  Go  argues 
an  insatiable  thirst  for  revenge  was  aroused,  and  he  devoted 
himself  to  its  gratification.  Su2>plementing  his  own  re- 
sources by  borrowing  money  fi'om  his  friends,  he  procured 
three  small  vessels,  enlisted  one  hundred  and  eighty-four 
men,  and  set  sail  on  the  22d  of  August,  15GT.  Good  for- 
tune appeared  to  wait  upon  his  enterprise  in  its  every  stage. 
lie  secured  the  hearty  cooperation  of  the  Indians,  complete- 
ly sui'prised  Fort  San  Mateo,  and  captured  it  with  even 
greater  ease  than  Menendez  had  captured  its  predecessor. 
Fort  Caroline.  Most  of  the  garrison  fell  under  the  swords 
of  the  Frenchmen  or  the  clubs  of  the  Indians  ;  and  the 
prisoners,  being  led  to  the  spot  where  Menendez  had  caused 
the  Huguenots  to  be  hung  in  1505,  were  suspended  beneath 
an  inscription  which  Do  Gourgues  had  caused  to  be  burned 
with  a  red-hot  iron  upon  a  tablet  of  pine  :  "  I  do  this,  not 
as  unto  Spaniards,  nor  as  to  outcasts,  but  as  to  traitors, 
thieves,  and  murderers  !  " 

For  a  period  of  about  a  hundred  years  after  this  dra- 
matic achievement,  the  history  of  Florida  offers  scarcely  a 
single  event  over  which  the  chronicler  finds  it  worth  while 
to  linger.  Menendez  returned  to  his  colony  in  the  spring 
of  1508  and  reestablished  the  confidence  that  had  been  im- 


yliV^  HISTORICAL  SKETCH.  217 

paired  by  Do  Gourgues's  inroad  ;  but  he  soon  tired  of  his 
profitless  position,  and  going  again  to  Spain  he  was  in  1571 
aj^pointed  captain-general  of  the  Spanish  fleet.  Little  prog- 
ress was  made  in  the  settlement  of  the  country,  and  the 
importance  of  Florida  greatly  diminished  in  the  public  esti- 
mation. In  1586  Sir  Francis  Drake,  returning  from  a  free- 
booting  expedition  in  the  Spanish  Main,  captured  and 
burned  St,  Augustine  ;  but  it  was  speedily  reoccupied  and 
rebuilt,  though  its  growth  was  so  slow  that  as  late  as  1647 
it  only  contained  three  hundred  families.  In  16G5  a  noted 
buccaneer  caj^tain  named  John  Davis  made  a  descent  on 
St.  Augustine  with  seven  small  vessels,  and  again  pillaged 
and  burned  the  unfortunate  town. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  began  those 
hostile  demonstrations  between  the  Spanish  colonists  in 
Florida  and  the  adjacent  English  colonists  in  South  Caro- 
lina and  Georgia  which  furnish  one  of  the  most  dismal 
chapters  in  American  history.  According  to  the  claim  of 
Spain,  Florida  embraced  the  entire  territory  as  far  north  as 
Virginia,  and  vrestward  to  the  Mississippi.  When,  there- 
fore, the  English  began  to  settle  in  the  Carolinas  the  S])an- 
iards  looked  upon  it  as  an  unwarrantable  intrusion,  and, 
moreover,  believed  that  these  settlers  aided  and  abetted  the 
pirates  who  preyed  xipon  Spanish  commerce  in  all  these 
seas.  The  ill  feeling  gradually  deepened  until,  in  the  year 
1676,  the  Spaniards  sent  an  expedition  to  attack  the  settle- 
ments on  the  Ashley  Kiver,  which,  howevei',  returned  with- 
out having  accom2)lished  anything.  Two  years  later  anoth- 
er expedition  was  sent  which  inflicted  great  damage  upon 
the  infant  settlements  and  perpetrated  atrocities  that  aroused 
the  bitterest  indignation.  For  a  time,  however,  the  Caro- 
linians were  too  feeble  to  retaliate,  and  the  Spaniards  took 
advantage  of  the  lull  to  begin  colonizing  the  western  coast 
of  Florida.  In  1696  a  fort  was  built  and  a  settlement  estab- 
lished at  Pensacola,  and  a  little  later  St.  ^Mark's  was  founded. 


218  FLORIDA. 

But  by  this  time  the  English  colonists  had  become  con- 
scious of  increased  strength,  and  the  ambitious  Mooi'e  hav- 
ing succeeded  the  cautious  Archdale  in  the  government  of 
Carolina,  advantage  was  taken  of  a  rupture  between  Eng- 
land and  Spain,  and  in  1702  a  sea  and  land  expedition  was 
organized  whose  object  was  nothing  less  than  the  complete 
conquest  of  Florida.  After  capturing  and  burning  St.  Au- 
gustine, Governor  Moore  failed  to  capture  the  fort,  and 
was  compelled  to  retreat  without  achieving  any  of  the  ob- 
jects with  which  he  had  set  out.  His  abortive  expedition 
cost  the  colony  of  Carolina  six  thousand  pounds,  and  led  to 
the  issue  of  the  first  paper  money  ever  circulated  in  Amer- 
ica. The  Indians  were  now  introduced  into  the  conflict  on 
both  sides,  the  Florida  tribes  making  an  unsuccessful  incur- 
sion into  Carolina  in  1702,  while  in  the  following  year,  with 
the  aid  of  the  Creeks,  Governor  Moore  attacked  and  almost 
destroyed  the  Indian  towns  under  Spanish  protection  in 
what  is  now  known  as  Middle  Florida. 

From  this  time  on  a  state  of  affairs  prevailed  something 
like  that  which  used  to  exist  on  the  Scottish  border — forays 
and  counter-forays  occurring  at  brief  intervals,  and  the  hos- 
tilities on  both  sides  being  carried  on  with  all  the  atrocities 
of  savage  warfare.  The  year  1706  saw  a  joint  French- 
Spanish  descent  on  Carolina  which  was  thwarted  by  the 
skill  of  the  Governor  of  the  latter  province  ;  in  1708  the 
Carolinians  made  a  devastating  raid  through  all  Northern 
Florida  ;  in  the  year  1714  there  was  a  general  outl^reak  of 
the  Indian  tribes  in  Carolina,  which  was  said  to  have  been 
instigated  by  Spanish  emissaries  ;  and  Avhen  driven  out  of 
Carolina  several  powerful  tribes  of  these  Indians  took  ref- 
uge in  Florida,  whence  they  maintained  a  constant  and  har- 
assing warfare  upon  the  Carolina  settlements. 

In  the  mean  time  hostilities  had  begun  between  the 
Spanish  colonists  in  West  Florida  and  the  French  colo- 
nists,  in   what   was  then   called    Louisiana.     In   1718   the 


AN  niSTORICAL  SKETCH.  219 

French  capture  the  Spanish  fort  at  Pensacola  ;  the  Spaniards 
straightway  retake  it  ;  the  French  capture  it  again  in  the 
following  year,  and,  thinking  to  put  an  end  to  the  matter, 
destroy  the  fort  and  burn  the  town.  Nothing  daunted,  the 
Spaniards  begin  another  settlement  on  Santa  Kosa  Island  in 
1722,  and  a  few  years  later  rebuild  Pensacola. 

Added  to  the  other  sources  of  ill  feeling  between  the 
Spanish  and  English  colonists,  was  the  fact  that  the  former 
afforded  a  refuge  and  protection  to  the  fugitive  slaves  of 
the  latter.  This  had  been  a  fruitful  cause  of  complaint 
from  the  beginning,  and  soon  a  further  grievance  was 
found  in  the  fact  that  absconding  debtors  and  other  crimi- 
nals found  a  convenient  asylum  in  Florida.  In  1725  an 
unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  to  settle  these  difficulties 
amicably  ;  and  in  1727  Colonel  Palmer,  with  a  body  of 
three  hundred  militia  and  some  friendly  Indians,  carried 
fire  and  sword  over  the  entire  province  up  to  the  very  gates 
of  St.  Augustine. 

The  settlement  of  the  new  colony  of  Georgia  by  Gen- 
eral Oglethorpe  in  1732  was  resented  by  the  Spaniards  as 
a  further  encroachment  upon  their  territory,  but,  as  it  in- 
creased very  materially  the  strength  of  the  English  colo- 
nists, the  latter  were  not  likely  to  yield  to  remonstrances. 
Continual  bickerings  ensued,  negotiations  between  Eng- 
land and  Spain  led  to  no  result,  and  finally,  in  1740,  Ogle- 
thorpe gathered  a  force  of  regulars  and  militia,  marched  to 
St.  Augustine,  and,  after  bombarding  the  fort  uselessly,  re- 
turned to  his  own  province.  Kow  came  tlie  turn  of  the 
Spanish  Governor,  Montcano  ;  so,  gathering  a  force  of 
some  three  thousand  men  and  thirty-six  vessels,  he  set  out 
from  St.  Augustine  with  the  determination  to  strike  a 
decisive  blow  at  the  new  English  colony.  At  fir.-t  he  was 
successful,  but  before  he  had  done  much  damage  he  was 
baffled  by  a  neat  stratagem  on  the  part  of  Oglethorpe,  and 
retreated  in   deep  chagrin.     The    next  year   (174o)   Ogle- 


220  FLORIDA. 

thorpe  again  invaded  Florida,  and  offered  battle  under  the 
very  walls  of  St.  Augustine,  but,  having  no  ordnance,  and 
the  Spanitfh  refusing  to  fight  in  the  open,  he  was  compelled 
to  retire  without  accomplishing  anything.  Fortunately,  in 
1748  a  treaty  of  peace  between  England  and  Spain  caused 
a  suspension  of  these  chronic  hostilities  between  the  rival 
colonies.  Uj^ton  the  renewal  of  the  war  in  17G2,  Havana 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English  ;  and  as  Spain  wanted 
Cuba  and  England  wanted  Florida,  an  exchange  was  ef- 
fected by  which  on  the  10th  of  February,  17G3,  the  prov- 
inces of  East  and  West  Florida  passed  into  the  possession 
of  the  British  crown. 

Under  British  rule  Florida  enjoyed  a  period  of  peace 
and  growth  and  prosperity  such  as  it  had  never  before 
known.  At  the  time  of  the  cession,  the  Spaniards  had  held 
the  country  for  upward  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  years,  yet 
the  interior  was  still  almost  wholly  unexi)lored,  the  settle- 
ments were  little  more  than  forts,  and  the  entire  population 
amounted  to  only  six  or  seven  thousand,  of  whom  many 
left  the  country  on  the  change  of  fiags.  The  first  English 
Governor  (General  James  Grant)  took  immediate  steps  to 
promote  the  settlement  of  the  province  and  to  develop  its 
resources,  and  his  efforts  were  cordially  seconded  by  the 
public-spirited  gentlemen  who  had  been  induced  to  settle 
there.  Roads  were  laid  out,  bounties  were  offered  for 
indigo  and  other  productions,  immigration  Avas  encouraged 
in  every  possible  way,  and  peace  was  made  with  the  Ind- 
ians. Sir  AVilliam  Duncan  and  Dr.  TurnbuU  brought  out 
fifteen  hundred  Greeks  and  Minorcans  and  settled  them  at 
New  Smyrna  ;  and,  though  the  enterprise  ended  disas- 
trously, it  had  a  good  effect  in  calling  attention  to  the 
industrial  opportunities  afforded  by  the  country. 

In  the  War  of  the  Revolution  Florida  took  no  part,  but 
it  afforded  an  asylum  for  many  thousand  loyalists  from 
Carolina  and  Georgia,  and  the  British  used  it  as  the  base 


A]^  HISTOEIGAL  SKETCH.  221 

for  their  operations  against  Savannah.  Upon  the  breaking 
out  of  hostilities  between  England  and  Spain  in  1779,  De 
Galvez,  the  Spanish  Governor  of  Louisiana,  captured  Baton 
Rouge,  which  was  then  within  the  limits  of  West  Florida, 
and  in  1781  attacked  and  captured  Pensacola.  At  the 
conclusion  of  the  general  peace  in  1783,  England,  feeling 
that  Florida  thus  isolated  was  no  longer  worth  retaining, 
exchanged  it  for  the  Bahama  Islands,  and  the  Spanish  flag 
once  more  floated  over  the  peninsula. 

With  the  passage  of  the  country  under  foreign  domina- 
tion most  of  the  English  settlers  abandoned  their  homes 
and  went  to  the  "  States  "  ;  and  a  truly  Spanish  lethargy 
settled  down  over  the  land,  broken  only  by  Indian  wars, 
and  by  the  occasional  attempts  of  "  filibusters"  to  get  pos- 
session of  the  country  and  erect  a  "  republic."  In  1795 
Spain  ceded  to  France  all  that  portion  of  Florida  lying- 
west  of  the  Perdido  River  ;  and  when,  in  1803,  Louisiana 
was  sold  to  the  United  States,  all  this  valuable  territory 
passed  into  the  possession  of  the  latter  power.  In  1812 
Fernandina  was  captured  by  a  band  of  "  patriots  "  whose 
actions  are  thought  to  have  been  connived  at  by  the  L'nited 
States  Government  ;  and  in  1814,  the  British  having  sent 
a  fleet  to  Pensacola  and  manned  the  forts,  General  Jackson 
stormed  the  town  and  destroyed  the  fortifications.  Again, 
in  1818,  General  Jackson  invaded  Florida  in  order  to  chas- 
tise the  troublesome  Seminole  Indians  ;  and  finally,  by  a 
treaty  concluded  on  the  22d  of  February,  1819,  and  rati- 
fied on  the  i9tli  of  February,  1821,  the  Floridas  were  ceded 
to  the  L^nited  States. 

Upon  the  change  of  flags  the  administration  of  afi^airs 
devolved  for  a  time  upon  the  military  authorities  ;  but  on 
March  3,  1822,  Congress  passed  an  act  establishing  tlie  ^IVr- 
ritory  of  Florida,  and  the  machinery  of  free  representative 
government  was  soon  in  regular  woi'kiiig  order.  Several 
counties  were  organized,  the  cajiital  was  located  at  the  for- 


222  FLORIDA. 

mer  Indian  settlement  of  Tallahassee,  and  immigration  be- 
gan to  move  in. 

The  settling  of  the  country  would  have  proceeded  much 
more  rapidly  but  for  the  difficulties  presented  by  the  Ind- 
ians, who  were  in  possession  of  the  best  lands,  and  extremely 
jealous  of  their  rights.  It  was  the  desire  of  the  whites  that 
the  Indians  should  be  removed,  like  the  Creeks,  to  some 
reservation  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  negotiations  to  this 
end  were  begun  in  1828.  Several  of  the  chiefs,  including 
Osceola,  were  bitterly  ojiposed  to  such  a  change  ;  but  the 
majority  were  willing  at  least  to  consider  it,  and  a  delega- 
tion was  appointed  to  visit  and  report  upon  the  jiroposed 
reservation.  Owing  to  procrastination  and  delays,  this  del- 
egation did  not  set  out  upon  their  journey  until  September, 
1882,  and  upon  their  return  in  March,  1833,  their  report 
was  favorable.  But  in  the  mean  time  the  opposition  among 
the  Indians  had  become  more  violent,  and  many  of  them  re- 
fused to  accept  the  recommendation  of  the  delegated  chiefs. 
The  United  States  authorities,  holding  that  the  Indians  were 
bound  under  the  terms  of  the  treaty  to  accept  this  recom- 
mendation, determined  to  force  them  to  do  so  ;  and  there- 
upon began  the  longest,  bloodiest,  and  costliest  war  that  was 
ever  waged  between  whites  and  Indians  in  America. 

This  war — known  in  history  as  the  Seminole  War — was 
too  complex  in  its  oporations  and  too  varied  in  its  vicissi- 
tudes to  be  dealt  with  in  detail  here.  An  admirably  clear 
and  minute  account  of  it  will  be  found  in  the  closing  chap- 
ters of  Fairbanks's  "  History  of  Florida,"  and  with  less  space 
than  is  there  devoted  to  it  justice  can  not  be  done  to  the 
subject.  Beginning  with  the  appalling  massaci-e  of  Major 
Dade's  command  on  the  28th  of  December,  1835,  the  war 
raged  unceasingly  until  August,  1842.  The  Indians  fouglit 
with  amazing  pertinacity  and  courage,  and  the  result  of  the 
campaigns  of  1835  and  1836  was  decidedly  in  their  favor. 
After  that  they  gradually  lost  ground  ;  but  not  until  General 


^xV  mSTOEICAL  SKETCH.  223 

Worth  took  command  in  1841,  and  inaugurated  the  policy 
of  pushing  the  campaign  in  summer  as  well  as  winter,  and 
of  tracking  them  to  their  swamp  fastnesses,  was  their  spirit 
quenched  or  the  vigor  of  their  resistance  broken.  "When 
the  deadly  conflict  at  length  ended,  most  of  the  Indians 
who  had  escaped  death  had  been  transported  beyond  the 
Mississippi,  and  only  an  insignificant  remnant  of  the  once 
powerful  Seminole  tribe  was  left  in  a  reservation  at  the 
southern  end  of  the  peninsula,  where  their  descendants  still 
support  themselves  frugally  by  hunting,  fishing,  and  the 
raising  of  cattle. 

But,  though  triumphant  in  the  end,  the  United  States 
had  paid  dearly  for  the  victory.  Six  or  seven  generals  had 
been  employed  with  varying  degrees  of  ill  fortune,  the  lives 
of  fourteen  hundred  and  sixty-six  regular  soldiers,  of  whom 
two  hundred  and  fifteen  were  ofticers,  had  been  lost,  and  the 
expenditures  had  amounted  to  upward  of  nineteen  million 
dollars,  a  vastly  larger  sum  then  than  now.  i\nd  worse  than 
all,  perhaps,  the  growth  of  Florida  had  been  set  back  fully  a 
generation.  Plantations  that  dated  from  the  earliest  settle- 
ment of  the  country  had  been  broken  up,  agricultural  occu- 
pations had  been  almost  completely  suspended,  hundreds  of 
families  had  been  either  butchered  or  driven  off,  and  immi- 
grants were  deterred  from  venturing  where  the  conditions 
of  life  were  so  precarious.  Of  the  many  cruel  misfortunes 
to  Avhich  Florida  has  been  subjected,  the  Seminole  War  was 
j)robably  the  most  disastrous  in  its  effects. 

For  the  later  history  of  Florida — that  which  has  oc- 
curred within  our  own  remembrance — we  must  content  our- 
selves with  a  few  dates  which  may  be  useful  for  reference, 
and  for  which  the  last  edition  of  Appletons'  "  C'yclopiedia  " 
is  our  authority. 

Florida  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State  (m  the 
3d  of  March,  1845.  An  ordinance  of  secession  from  the 
Union  was  jiassed  on  the  10th  of  January,  18G1,  by  a  con- 


224:  FLORIDA. 

vention  which  had  assembled  on  tlie  3d.  On  the  7th  Fort 
Marion,  the  arsenal  at  St.  Augustine,  and  the  Chattahoochee 
arsenal  were  seized  by  order  of  the  State  authorities  ;  and 
on  the  12th,  the  navy-yards  and  forts  at  Pensacohi  were 
taken.  Early  in  the  following  year  (186:^)  Fernandina, 
Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine,  and  other  places  on  the  east 
coast,  were  retaken  by  the  national  forces,  and  held  to  the 
close  of  the  war.  Restrictions  on  commercial  intercourse 
with  Florida  were  removed  by  a  proclamation  of  President 
Johnson  dated  April  29,  18G5,  and  on  July  loth  William 
Marvin  was  appointed  provisional  Governor.  On  October 
10th  was  held  an  election  of  delegates  to  a  State  Conven- 
tion, which  assembled  in  Tallahassee  on  the  25th,  and  on 
the  28th  repealed  the  ordinance  of  secession.  Subsequently 
a  Legislature  and  State  officers  were  elected,  to  whom  the 
civil  authority  was  transferred  in  January,  18GG.  Under 
the  reconstruction  measures  of  Congress  in  1807  Florida 
was  made  a  part  of  the  Third  Military  District,  of  which 
Major-General  Pope  was  appointed  commander.  A  conven- 
tion to  reorganize  the  State  government  was  authorized  by 
vote  of  the  peojjle  in  November,  1867,  It  assembled  at 
Tallahassee  on  the  20th  of  January,  18G8,  and  subsequently 
framed  a  new  Constitution,  which  was  ratified  by  the  people 
in  May.  At  the  same  election  State  officers  and  a  Legislat- 
ure were  chosen.  The  Legislature  convened  on  June  1st, 
and  adopted  the  fourteenth  amendment  to  the  Federal 
Constitution,  in  consequence  of  which  Florida  was  recog- 
nized as  a  State  by  the  General  Government.  On  July  4th 
of  that  year  the  government  was  transferred  to  the  State 
authorities. 

The  growth  of  the  population  of  Florida  has  been  as 
follows  :  in  1830,  34,730  ;  in  1840,  54,477  ;  in  1850,  87,445  ; 
in  1860,  140,424 ;  in  1870,  187,748  ;  in  1880,  271,864. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FLORIDA    FOLKS    AXD    FAMILIES. 

Florida  is  raj)idly  becoming  a  Northern  colony.  The 
tide  of  immigration  to  this  State  is  large  and  steadily  in- 
creasing, and  is  beyond  doubt  soon  to  assume  immense  pro- 
portions, and  the  immigrants  as  a  class  are  unusually  intel- 
ligent people.  Nearly  all  of  native  American  birth,  the 
foreign-born  element  is  of  insignilicant  dimensions  at  this 
date. 

Generally  described,  they  are  people  who  read — and  con- 
tinue to  read — and  are  well  posted  on  the  resources  and  ad- 
vantages of  the  various  sections  of  the  United  States,  and 
know  exactly  what  they  desire.  They  come  here  with  a 
fixed  purpose,  that  only  requires  a  short  period  of  local 
observation  and  examination  of  the  precise  soil  and  climate 
for  their  pro])Osed  special  enterprise.  It  is  no  mining  ex- 
citement attraction  here,  with  visions  of  gold  to  be  picked 
up  in  lum])s,  but  a  healthy  feeling  of  hope  of  a  genial  cli- 
mate, and  a  slow  but  steadily  increasing  wealth  made 
from  the  soil.  There  is  a  total  absence  of  the  wild,  anx- 
ious, eager  class  of  excited,  young,  single  men  arrayed  in 
flannel  shirts,  broad  felt  hats,  top-boots,  armed  with  knives 
and  immense  navy  revolvers,  their  brains  filled  with  vision- 
ary ideas  of  suddenly  acquired  wealth,  that  are  so  plentiful 
in  Western  countries  and  mining  regions. 

The  immigrants  to  this  section  are  the  extreme  o})po- 
site  ;  they  are,  as  a  class,  middle-aged  men,  mostly  with 
families,  evidently  of  good  average  education,  well  dressed, 


226  FLORIDA. 

of  quiet,  deliberate  demeanor  and  a  fixed  purpose  ;  just  the 
class  that  establish  the  very  best  of  peaceable,  healthy, 
sound,  safe,  and  in  every  way  desirable  communities.  Such 
])eople  seldom  emigrate,  and  always  improve  themselves 
and.  their  community  wherever  they  reside. 

All  States  and  sections  are  represented  in  this  stream  of 
immigrants.  There  are  colonies  from  Wisconsin,  Michigan, 
western  New  York,  New  Hampshire,  Connecticut,  Indiana, 
and  Ohio.  The  latter  State  appears  to  have  the  largest 
representation  here  ;  they  are  largest  in  numbers,  and  more 
of  them  are  to  be  found  occupying  positions  of  trust,  influ- 
ence, and  general  confidence,  than  of  any  other  State.  New 
England  as  a  region  is  largely  represented — quite  a  New 
England  winter  garden — and  it  is  mainly  New  England 
energy,  brains,  and  solid  capital  that  are  now  developing  the 
State.  Nearly  all  the  railroads,  steamboats,  mills,  facto- 
ries, and  the  like,  are  directly  or  indirectly  the  product  of 
New  England  or  New  York  brain-work  and  capital. 

One  very  noticeable  feature  of  the  population  here  is 
the  small  number  of  foreign-born  people,  especially  of  the 
Irish  race.  I  have  met  but  about  a  dozen  of  the  latter  in 
all  parts  of  the  State,  and  but  one  of  them  Avas  of  the  regu- 
lation typical  "  son  of  the  sod,"  having  the  pure  brogue. 
All  whom  I  met  were  occupying  good,  positions,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  in  prosperous  circumstances — far  better  than 
the  average  of  Irish  people  in  the  North.  Germans  are 
also  few  in  actual  numbers,  but  there  are  more  of  them 
than  of  any  other  class  of  foreign  birth,  probably  more 
than  of  all  other  foreign-born  combined  ;  and,  as  is  the 
rule  with  that  excellent,  industrious,  thrifty,  frugal,  peace- 
able race,  they  are  all  doing  Avell,  and  generally  own  good 
homes,  shops,  stores,  saloons,  or  gardens.  The  Swedes,  of 
whom  there  is  a  colony  in  Upsala,  near  Sanford,  are  a  very 
prosperous,  industrious,  healthy,  and  enterprising  class,  and 
make  excellent  colonists. 


FLORIDA  FOLKS  AND  FAMILIES.  227 

There  are  many  natives  of  Old  England  residing  in  all 
portions  of  the  State.  Hale,  hearty,  thrifty,  and  industri- 
ous, their  families  and  homes  are  pleasing  evidences  of 
prosperity  and  the  sound  judgment  typical  of  the  solid  Eng- 
lish land-owner  the  world  over. 

Of  Chinese  there  are  very  few,  though  there  ought  to 
be  many  of  them  in  Florida.  I  believe  in  the  "heathen 
Chinee "  ;  his  neatness,  thrift,  and  excellent  unobtrusive- 
ness,  always  quiet  and  orderly,  are  in  every  way  commend- 
able ;  and  everywhere  I  found  the  people  favoring  Chinese 
immigration — in  fact,  a  general  desire  to  replace  the  colored 
labor  with  Chinese  laboi'.  Colored  labor  for  the  house, 
field,  grove,  or  garden,  while  easy  to  control,  is  very  far 
from  satisfactory.  It  is  always  uncertain,  indolent,  and 
negligent,  unless  closely  and  incessantly  watched.  As  a 
class,  the  colored  servants  are  given  to  falsehood  and  petty 
theft,  are  liable  to  leave  you  without  a  word  of  warning 
just  when  badly  needed,  and  are  wasteful  of  your  stores 
and  provender.  There  are  exceptions,  but  such  are  few, 
and  can  not  be  relied  on  ;  their  only  praiseworthy  quality 
is  their  easy  good-nature.  The  silent,  neat,  careful,  polite 
Chinese  ai*e  far  preferable. 

The  least  desirable  of  American  immigrants  are,  as  a 
class,  from  "xVlabawma."  They  are  the  real  and  ideal 
"cracker,"  mostly  very  poor,  ignorant,  shiftless,  improvi- 
dent, conceited,  and  lazy  ;  and  they  are  about  the  only  class 
of  immigrants  to  Florida  that  are  useless.  They  are  to  this 
State  what  the  low  class  of  Europeans  are  to  the  Northern 
States — a  damage  and  a  hindrance.  There  are  excellent 
people  in  Alabama,  and  some  very  worthy  families  come 
here  from  there,  but  the  lower  class  of  them  as  a  rule  are 
not  very  beneficial  to  any  State.  The  best  immigrants  from 
the  Southern  States  are  from  Georgia  ;  in  fact,  the  average 
Georgian  is  a  shrewd,  thrifty,  sober,  industrious  individual 
— a  regular  Southern  Yankee.    They  are  good  citizens  if  at 


228  FLORIDA. 

all  educated,  and  arc  nearly  always  on  the  side  of  law,  order, 
and  progress. 

The  native  Florida  "  crackers  "  are  few  in  numbers,  and 
are  rapidly  becoming  fewer.  Tliey  Lave  but  little  influence 
in  the  affairs  of  the  counties  or  in  the  several  communities  ; 
but,  singularly  enough,  they  have  a  preponderance  in  the 


A    COUNTKY   CaKT. 

State  Legislature,  owing  to  the  manner  in  which  the  repre- 
sentatives ai'e  chosen,  and  their  influence  there  is  not  very 
beneficial,  to  say  the  least.  Time  and  immigration,  how- 
ever, will  change  all  this  condition  of  things.  The  best  class 
of  these  "  crackers  "  are  the  cattle-herders,  a  tough,  rough, 
and  dare-devil,  good-natured  crowd,  to  be  sure,  but  active, 
and  more  wide-awake  than  that  class  generally  are,  especial- 
ly those  found  near  the  settlements. 

In  the  northern  counties  dwell  the  old-time  aristocracy 
of  the  State,  the  class  who  were  the  intelligent,  fashionable 
society  of  the  South.  They  are,  however,  few  in  numbers 
at  present,  are  exclusive  and  proud,  and  yet  at  heart  are 
very  worthy,  kind-hearted,  and  truly  good  people.     Their 


FLORIDA  FOLKS  AND  FAMILIES.  229 

only  fault  is  that  they  were  born,  reared,  and  trained  under 
absolutely  different  social  conditions  from  those  which  now 
obtain,  and  they  can  not  learn  to  fully  accustom  themselves 
to  their  new  life  and  surroundings.  They  mean  well,  and 
deserve  resjDCCtful  sympathy.  They  can  not  learn  the  Chi- 
cago-New England  spirit  of  })rogression,  and  it  is  useless  to 
expect  it  of  them — that  is,  of  that  generation  now  passing 
its  latter  day  of  prime.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  gen- 
eration now  growing  into  manhood  may  better  understand, 
and  be  more  disposed  to  take,  an  active  part  in  the  "mani- 
fest destiny  "  of  the  State.  It  must  realize  that  in  Florida, 
as  elsewhere,  "  the  old  order  of  things  passes  away,  giving 
place  to  the  new." 

It  is  entirely  useless — notwithstanding  all  arguments  to 
the  contrary — for  the  Northern  immigrant  to  expect  to  be- 
come an  intimately  familiar  guest  and  neighbor  of  the  old 
residents  and  aristocrats  of  the  South,  They  will  tell  you 
they  "  welcome  you,"  and  if  you  are  a  gentlemanly,  peaceable, 
respectable  citizen,  they  do  welcome  you,  after  a  fashion  ; 
but  it  is  the  welcome  extended  to  a  polite  stranger — sincere 
but  cool,  honest  but  always  formal.  It  is  vastly  different 
from  the  state  of  society  at  the  AVest,  and  for  vastly  dif- 
ferent reasons.  In  the  West  is  found  no  former  "  old-time  " 
society  ;  the  settlers  there  are  themselves  the  original  and 
only  society  ;  and,  as  is  always  the  case  with  sensible  i)eo- 
ple  when  they  meet  in  far-off  places,  they  are  sociable, 
hearty,  and  cordial  toward  one  another.  There  all  are 
deemed  respectable  members  of  society  until  convicted  of 
crime  or  misdeed.  Here  in  the  South,  the  older  residents 
do  not,  and  I  believe  can  not,  understand  that  sentiment  of 
social  intercourse  and  bluff,  hearty  good-fellowship  which 
is  felt  among  the  peoples  of  the  East,  North,  and  AVest  ; 
and  the  new-comer  might  as  well  give  up  any  hope  or  re- 
sentment in  the  matter.  It  is  caused  by  the  laws  of  human 
nature  that   make  the  Escpiiniau,  the  Chinese,  the  Russian, 


230  FLORIDA. 

the  Turk,  the  Frenchman,  the  Englishman,  the  New-Eng- 
lander,  and  the  Southerner,  each  believe  his  country,  people, 
and  customs  to  be  the  best.  It  can  not  be  changed  in  one 
generation.  The  immigrant  from  other  regions  must  sim- 
ply wait  patiently  until  there  is  a  sufficient  number  of  other 
immigrants  settled  near  him  to  form  a  congenial  circle  of 
intimates.  In  the  mean  time,  one  thing  is  sure  :  in  health 
or  sickness,  in  trouble  or  disaster,  you  will  always  receive 
kindly  attention,  care,  and  assistance  from  these  excellent 
people,  if  you  at  all  deserve  it. 

The  rush  of  immigration  is  to  the  semi-tropical  central 
Florida  regions  along  the  Transit  Railroad,  the  St.  John's 
River,  and  the  coasts  ;  these  are  the  localities  where  the 
new  settlers  are  pouring  in,  clearing  lands,  fencing,  building 
homes,  setting  out  groves,  planting  gardens,  building  rail- 
roads, mills,  factories,  etc.  Putnam,  Sumter,  Volusia,  Or- 
ange, Brevard,  Marion,  Alachua,  Manatee,  and  all  the  coun- 
ties of  that  extensive  section,  are  the  chosen  spots  of  the 
new-comers  ;  and  that  section  will  soon  be  the  most  popu- 
lous and  powerful  portion  of  the  State.  In  none  of  these 
counties  will  the  new-comer  find  himself  far  away  from 
congenial  companionship  and  friendly  associations. 

Churches  are  being  built  in  all  the  new  towns  and  ham- 
lets, and  nowhere  is  religion  more  strictly  observed  than  in 
Florida.  In  all  the  older  towns  and  communities  they  have 
as  attractive  and  as  well-attended  churches  as  anywhere  in 
our  country.  Schools  are  scarce,  but  are  increasing.  The 
State  has  a  good  school  law,  and  the  school  system  is 
gradually  developing  into  a  strong  and  vigorous  condition  ; 
but  it  will  take  time,  more  settlers,  and  care  to  make  it 
anything  like  Indiana,  Illinois,  or  such  States  of  special 
educational  facilities.  The  State  Legislature,  too,  must 
pass  under  the  control  of  a  class  of  law-makei's  who  have 
lived  under  and  seen  the  effect  of  a  liberal  support  of  pub- 
lic schools.     Even  if  they  were  excellent  legislators  on  gen- 


FLORIDA  FOLKS  AND  FAMILIES.  231 

eral  questions  and  requirements,  most  of  the  present  law- 
makei's  of  both  political  parties  know  little  or  nothing  of 
the  perfect  educational  systems  of  the  North  and  West. 
It  is  not  at  all  a  question  of  their  political  views,  but  a  bare 
fact  that  they  do  not  know  anything  about  it. 

But  there  are  other  drawbacks,  for  which  the  Legislat- 
ure or  people  can  not  be  held  to  blame.  In  the  first  place, 
the  number  of  children  is  so  small,  and  the  territory  of  the 
districts  necessarily  so  large,  that  the  schools  are  lightly 
attended.  In  the  next  place,  the  wages  paid  the  teachers 
are  too  low  to  make  it  an  object  for  tirst-class  instructors 
to  seek  positions  here,  except  an  occasional  person  who  has 
come  here  for  health  and  light  employment  ;  and  even 
these  soon  find  more  lucrative  occupations.  In  the  older, 
larger  cities,  like  Tallahassee,  Tampa,  Key  West,  Pensa- 
cola,  and  all  old-settled  places,  especially  'Jacksonville, 
there  are  very  good  schoolhouses,  good  teachers,  and  good 
methods  ;  but  the  terms  should  be  made  longer,  and  the 
pay  to  all  teachers  considerably  increased. 

There  is  comparatively  little  crime  in  Florida  ;  prop- 
erty and  life  are  nowhere  safer  than  here.  This  is  very 
noticeable  where  the  homes  are  few  and  far  between,  and 
of  such  light  construction  that  they  might  easily  be  entered 
by  the  burglar  or  more  desperate  villain.  Such  scoundrels 
are  remarkably  few.  The  laws  are  generally  well  enforced 
on  all  such  evil-doers  ;  and  where  these  fail  or  are  too  dila- 
tory, a  rough-and-ready  popular  justice  is  apt  to  perform 
their  work.  The  judges  and  justices  as  a  class  compare 
favoral)ly  with  those  of  other  States. 

]\Iuch  has  been  said  and  written  about  crimes  committed 
in  this  State  as  the  result  of  color  and  polities.  It  is 
stoutly  asserteil  by  some  that  many  lives  have  been  lost 
and  much  property  destroyed  from  these  causes  ;  and  it  is 
as  stoutly  denied  by  others  that  such  tilings  have  been 
done.     I  believe  there  have  been  such  crimes  committed, 


282  FLORIDA. 

and  that  politics  has  been  the  cause  of  much  trouble,  loss  of 
life,  and  damage  to  property  ;  but  I  have  not  included  any 
of  these  acts  in  my  views  about  scarcity  of  crime,  for  I  do 
not  regard  political  outrages,  however  atrocious,  as  belong- 
ing to  the  common-law  class  of  crimes,  great  or  small. 
They  are  different,  resulting  from  entirely  different  causes, 
in  which  it  is  fair  to  suppose  the  followers  of  both  political 
beliefs  were  in  some  degree  in  fault,  and  that  the  remedy 
and  total  avoidance  can  only  be  brought  about  by  intelli- 
gent, friendly  understanding  of  the  rights  of  all.  Time, 
education,  and  commercial  prosperity  only  will  prevent 
these  political  misunderstandings  and  crimes.  And  it  must 
be  remembered  that  it  is  but  a  few  years  since  a  great  war, 
with  its  embittering,  desolating  effects,  was  raging,  and 
that  this  region  was  a  battle-ground,  and  the  participants 
in  these  disgi»aceful  political  quarrels  were  engaged  on  the 
two  sides  of  that  great  struggle.  But  happily  such  ani- 
mosities, such  disturbances,  and  such  unhappy  influences 
are  rapidly  passing  away,  and  everywhere  the  political  is 
giving  way  to  the  enterprising  commercial  interest.  The 
elections  of  1880  were  undoubtedly  as  peaceably  conducted 
in  Florida  as  in  any  other  State  of  our  Union.  The  mis- 
doings, if  any,  were  such  as  time,  better  laws,  and  sound 
common-sense  will  eradicate  and  effectually  put  an  end  to. 
The  negroes,  who  form  so  prominent  an  element  in  the 
other  Southern  States,  are  less  numerous  and  less  conspicu- 
ous in  Florida  than  elsewhere  ;  though  of  course,  as  they 
perform  most  of  the  manual  labor  and  are  almost  the  only 
attainable  domestic  help,  they  are  found  everywhere  in 
greater  or  smaller  numbers.  Here,  as  always,  they  are  a 
picturesque  and  amusing  class,  and  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing episodes  of  my  life  in  Florida  is  connected  with  a  pe- 
riod of  several  months  during  which  I  was  in  continual  and 
close  contact  with  large  numbers  of  them  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  South  Florida  Railroad.     Holding  official  re- 


FLORIDA  FOLKS  AND  FAMILIES.  233 

lations  with  tliis  enterprise  in  several  capacities,  I  was  at  one 
time  commissary,  and  this,  of  course,  involved  almost  con- 
.stant  relations  with  the  laborers.  These  laborers,  who  were 
all  negroes,  except  the  mechanics,  numbered  about  six  hun- 
dred, and  were  mostly  Georgians,  who  camo  in  gangs  espe- 
cially for  the  railway  service. 

They  were  a  strange  set  of  beings.  The  pk'a;3ure-seeker 
who  visits  a  minstrel  e.itertainment  in  the  North  may  sup- 
pose he  is  seeing  a  comical  creature  of  the  imagination,  but 
it  is  not  so  ;  in  fact,  the  most  grotesque  acting  or  the  most 
distorted  lingual  expressions  that  the  "  nigger  delineator  " 
ever  perpetrated  on  the  stage  is  far  from  equaling  the  re- 
ality as  seen  and  heard  in  a  camp  of  negro  laborers.  Such 
wonderful  jokes,  such  crushing  retorts,  such  verbal  pyro- 
technics, and  such  uproarious  shouts  of  laughter,  can  never 
be  heard  elsewliere  ;  and  the  accompanying  gestures  and 
pantomime  are  often  more  original  and  characteristic  than 
the  language  itself.  The  only  drawback  to  the  amusement 
of  listening  at  these  gatherings  is  the  shocking  profanity 
and  disgustingly  vile  language  in  wliich  the  negroes  indulge. 
The  most  simple  remarks  in  their  social  conversation  are 
commonly  interlarded  with  a  number  of  oaths  and  foul 
words  that  is  positively  startling.  They  seem  to  think  that 
it  strengthens  and  emphasizes  their  conversation  ;  and  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  the  practice  is  partly  due  to  their  as- 
sociation with  low  whites,  and  to  a  desire  to  "  talk  as  big  as 
the  white  folks." 

The  camp  readied,  after  a  day's  labor,  all  hands  would 
speedily  bring  out  their  stowed-away  "  grub-boxes."  Fires 
were  quickly  burning,  and  soon  a  multitude  of  skillets  were 
ranged  over  the  coals,  in  each  a  chunk  of  fat  side-pork  ; 
this,  and  a  cupful  of  boiled  "grits"  or  hominy,  with  mo- 
lasses for  sauce,  and  a  cup  of  coffee,  is  their  usual  meal. 
Sometimes  they  vary  this  with  a  can  of  salmon,  or  a  fresh 
fish  caught  in  the  innumerable  lakes,  or  a  go})her  caught  in 


234  FLORIDA. 

the  woods,  and  made  into  soup.  (This  last  is  a  species  of 
large  land-turtle  ten  to  twenty  inches  across  its  back-shell, 
living  in  deep  holes  Avhich  it  hurrows  in  the  ground.  They 
are  very  plentiful,  and  their  cavernous-looking  retreats  are 
everywhere  seen  here.  They  are  incorrectly  called  "  go- 
phers "  by  the  negroes  and  natives.)  They  also  frequently 
make  up  batches  of  corn  or  wheat-flour  cake,  to  be  eaten 
with  molasses.  Pork,  however,  is  their  chief  article  cf 
food  ;  they  ate  it  three  times  a  day,  and  averaged  about 
five  pounds  each  in  seven  days. 

Meals  over,  the  fun  began.  Musical  instruments,  con- 
sisting mainly  of  banjoes,  fiddles,  and  guitars,  began  thrum- 
ming everywhere  ;  soon  a  jig  would  strike  up,  all  the  feet 
(such  feet  !)  would  begin  beating  time,  and  before  very 
long  some  dancer  Avould  bound  forward  and  commence  a 
shufiie,  perhaps  two  or  three  others  joining  in,  and  keep  it  up 
until  they  dropped  from  sheer  exhaustion.  And  the  sing- 
ing, especially  after  sunset,  was  always  a  noticeable  feature, 
frequently  quite  fine.  'When  two  or  three  voices  start — 
joined  in  one  of  their  countless  melodies,  like  nothing  heard 
elsewhere — it  is  very  attractive.  Generally  all  hands  in 
camp  would  join  in  the  chorus  ;  and  when  heard  a  little  dis- 
tance off  through  the  pine-woods,  it  was  strangely  beauti- 
ful and  often  solemnly  sweet. 

As  a  class,  the  genuine,  pure  blacks  are  always  the  best 
laborers  ;  they  work  hardest,  most  willingly,  honestly,  and 
efficiently,  always  performing  the  most  labor  in  a  day,  and 
making  least  trouble  to  the  foremen  and  officers.  The  gen- 
uine African  is  an  excellent,  worthy  worker.  But  it  is  dif- 
ferent with  "  them  yeller  fellei's."  These  are  always  more 
dainty,  more  quarrelsome  ;  they  are  the  class  that  carry 
watches  and  revolvers,  always  shirk,  always  do  things  a 
trifle  different  from  the  way  ordered,  always  quarrel  with 
their  foremen  about  their  time,  about  their  rations,  about 
their  pay,  and  about  everything.    They  are  up  to  all  manner 


FLORIDA  FOLKS  AXD  FAMILIES.  235 

of  tricks,  giving  tlieir  names  diffei-ently  to  their  foremen, 
the  commissary  clerk,  and  the  paymaster,  creating  all  sorts  of 
unexpected  confusion  and  disputes,  requiring  close  care  and 
watching,  greatly  increasing  the  duties  of  the  overseers. 
If  there  was  any  mischief  or  deviltry  in  the  camp,  we  nearly 
always  discovered  that  a  mulatto  was  at  the  bottom  of  it. 

The  10th  of  each  month  was  pay-day,  the  great  day 
with  the  darkeys,  and  a  busy  day  at  the  pay-table.  It  was 
a  regulation  holiday  with  the  gangs  ;  not  a  bit  of  work 
would  they  perform,  but  at  an  early  hour  they  v»'ould  gather 
at  the  pay-office — scuffling,  dancing,  shouting,  singing — a 
happy  crowd  indeed.  One  dollar  per  day  was  the  regular 
standard  price  ;  the  colored  "  spikcrs  "  (men  Avho  drive  the 
track-spikes)  and  sub-foremen  received  a  dollar  and  twen- 
ty-five to  a  dollar  and  forty  cents  per  day.  The  older 
darkeys  of  about  forty  or  fifty  years,  especially  the  genu- 
uine  blacks,  were,  as  I  have  said,  by  far  the  best  laborers  ; 
they  usually  kept  records  to  "  taliies  "  of  their  labor,  and 
always  were  correct.  But  the  young  darkeys,  especially 
the  "  yeller  fellers,"  the  class  that  loves  to  dance  and  sing, 
never  averaged  over  fifteen  days'  labor  in  the  month,  and 
were  always  disputing  their  time-accounts. 

After  pay-day  they  would  strangely  be  missing — that  is, 
the  younger  class — but  a  hunt  through  the  woods  would 
reveal  their  whereabouts  ;  under  the  trees  and  in  out-of- 
the-way  thickets  they  Avere  to  be  found  in  small,  quiet, 
earnest-faced  little  groups — gambling  !  The  darkey  is  a 
most  inveterate  gambler,  the  equal  of  the  Chinaman  or 
Indian  in  this  vice.  The  Chinaman  will  gamble  himself 
away — that,  is  he  will  bind  himself  to  work  for  his  winning 
op])onent  for  certain  lengths  of  time  ;  the  Indian  will  gam- 
ble away  his  horses,  tepees  (or  Avigwams),  squaws,  and 
papooses  ;  but  the  darkey  will  gamble  all  he  has  earned 
by  months  of  hard  labor,  and  all  he  can  steal  from  l-.is  hard- 
workins:  fellow-laV)orers. 


236 


FLORIDA. 


After  two  or  three  clays  the  gangs  would  begin  to  return 
to  work,  silent  for  a,  day  or  two,  dispirited,  disgusted,  dead- 
broke — in  fact,  "  played  out." 

Two  or  three  of  them  wouldn't  return  to  work — no, 
sir  !  Ti'iey  put  on  airs,  joked,  smoked  cigars,  ate  melons, 
bananas,  etc.,  and  went  on  a  trip  down  the  river  to  Jack- 
sonville, bought  watches,  canes,  etc.  They  were  the  win- 
ning gamblers. 

The  pay-rolls  exhil>ited  a  lamentable  condition  of  igno- 
rance among  them,  less  than  ten  per  cent,  signing  their 
names.  About  thirty  or  forty  whites  of  the  poorer  class  of 
natives  were  employed  on  the  gangs,  and  the  lack  of  edu- 


OUT   FOR   A   DeIVK. 


cation  was  even  greater  among  this  class,  for  less  than  four 
per  cent,  could  sign  their  names.  In  reply  to  the  request 
to  "sign  your  name,"  the  old  darkeys  always  politely 
replied, '•  I  can't  write,  sir ";  but   the  whites  would,  in  a 


FLO  BID  A  FOLKS  AYD  FAMILIES.  237 

shamed  manner  and  low  tone,  say,  "  You  jest  put  it  down, 
please,  my  hand  is  hurted  and  sort  o'  weak  like — ahem  !  " 
or  they  would  remark  that  their  hand  was  "so  dirty."  I 
have  seen  them  slyly  wrap  a  bit  of  cloth  or  a  handkerchief 
about  their  hand  while  awaiting  their  turn,  so  as  have  an 
excuse  for  not  signing. 

As  a  rule,  the  young  blacks  can  read  and  write,  and  are 
very  proud  of  the  accomplishment.  They  seize  the  pen 
and  delight  to  attach  their  autographs  (generally  of  three 
or  four  names,  the  AVilliams  and  Johnsons  greatly  in  the 
majority)  in  an  airy,  rapid,  careless  sort  of  style  ;  it  always 
profoundly  impresses  the  assembled  lookers-on,  and  adds 
a  dignity  to  labor  that  is  quite  overjjowering  to  witness. 
The  blacks  are  always  solid  friends  to  all  educational  im- 
provements. In  all  their  camps  were  individuals  who  di<l 
the  reading  and  writing  ;  read  the  newspapers  aloud,  read 
the  letters  received  by  their  less  intelligent  cc^mpanions, 
and  wrote  the  letter  and  postal-card  replies — this  class  are 
"immense"  on  letters.  Frequently  these  scribes  (always 
young)  make  a  pretty  good  thing  of  it  in  this  amanuoisis 
service. 

It  was  often  a  group  quite  v/orth  seeing  to  visit  one  of 
their  camps  in  the  evening.  There  the  large  fire  of  pitch- 
pine  knots  was  blazing  brightly,  lighting  up  their  sir.all 
collection  of  queer  little  huts  built  of  railroad-ties,  in  the 
tall  pine-woods,  making  a  good  picture  indeed,  with  the 
entire  party  all  grouped  about  one  of  their  number — all  in- 
tently listening  to  him  reading  the  latest  newspaper  ;  they 
always  insisted  that  he  should  read  it  all.  Such  intense  at- 
tention, eager  eyes,  and  various  attitudes,  such  quiet,  ear- 
nest facial  expressions,  and  such  costumes — -or  lack  of  cos- 
tumes— all  frequently  formed  pictures  that  would  delight 
an  artist. 

And  after  the  reading  was  completed,  then  to  hear  the 
Babel  of  arguments,  o})inions,  and  comicalities,  was  another 


238  FLORIDA. 

source  of  interest  to  the  observer.  Often  their  jokes  and 
puns  were  quite  original  and  good. 

It  is  always  something  of  an  astonishment  to  find  how 
well  posted  these  otherwise  ignorant  negroes  are  on  politi- 
cal matters,  local  events,  or  any  important  occurrences  ; 
they  seem  to  have  a  secret  sort  of  freemasoniy  by  which 
they  learn  everything  going  on.  Ignorant,  but  very  cun- 
ning and  unscrupulous,  they  would  be  a  terribly  dangerous 
element  of  society,  were  it  not  for  their  well-known  fear  of 
fire-arms,  and  their  naturally  peaceful  disposition.  As  a 
rule,  all  negroes  go  armed  ;  razors  are  their  characteristic 
and  specially  favorite  weapon  ;  but  they  are  very  fond  of 
revolvers  also,  and  many  of  them  carry  one.  Give  the  or- 
dinary negro  a  cheap  shiny  watch,  a  revolver,  and  a  cane, 
and  he  is  "  happy  as  a  lord." 

The  negro,  I  think,  will  not  play  a  permanent  or  promi- 
nent part  in  Florida.  In  moderate  num])ers,  no  doubt,  he 
will  always  be  found  there,  but  his  shiftless,  incompetent, 
and  indolent  ways  will  not  long  be  endured  by  the  class  of 
vigorous  and  thoroughgoing  Northern  and  Western  men 
who  constitute  the  bulk  of  the  immigration  to  Florida  at 
present.  The  better  class  of  foreign  laborers  will  gradually 
supersede  him,  and  should  John  Chinaman  ever  be  intro- 
duced in  any  considerable  numbers,  as  I  have  suggested, 
the  days  of  "  Sambo "  and  "  Cuffee "  would  speedily  be 
numbered. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

OBANGE-CULTUEE. 

The  orange  is  by  far  the  most  important  of  the  semi- 
tropical  fruits  grown  in  Florida,  and  its  culture  is  rapidly- 
becoming  the  leading  industry  of  the  State.  In  nearly  all 
sections  it  is  found  ejrowinor  either  in  fields  or  house-jxar- 
dens,  as  common  and  as  natural  to  the  climate  and  locality 
as  the  apple  in  the  colder  States.  Whether  or  not  it  is  in- 
digenous is  as  yet  an  unsettled  question,  but  the  weight  of 
evidence  seems  to  be  in  favor  of  the  idea  that  it  was  first 
introduced  by  the  Spaniards,  and  that  the  many  wild  groves 
of  "  sour  "  oranges  that  are  now  foiind  in  various  localities 
are  simply  the  result  of  that  deterioration  which  all  the  cul- 
tivated fruits  undergo  when  left  for  long  periods  to  run 
riot  in  a  state  of  nature.  It  is  well  known  that  the  apple, 
left  to  itself  for  a  sufficient  .period,  will  ultimately  revert  to 
the  "  crab  "  ;  and  the  difference  between  the  "  crab  "  and 
the  choice  varieties  of  the  eating  apple  is  about  the  same  as 
the  difference  between  the  wild  "sour"  orange  and  the  cul- 
tivated "sweet." 

Since  the  earliest  settlement,  apparently,  oranges  have 
been  grown  in  Florida,  but  in  a  very  careless  and  desultory 
way.  It  is  only  siiiee  the  war  that  any  special  attention 
has  been  given  to  their  production,  or  any  effort  made  to 
cultivate  them  for  profit  ;  and  what  is  sometimes  called  the 
"  orange  craze  "  has  developed  within  the  past  six  or  eight 
years.  The  financial  panic  of  1^7;]  caused  many  people 
II 


240 


FLORIDA. 


who  were  educated  and  slirewd  to  seek  other  and  less  pre- 
carious opportunities  for  investment  than  are  afforded  by 
ordinary  "  business."  Many  of  these,  gathering  together 
the  wrecks  of  their  fortunes,  came  to  Florida  ;  and,  quickly 
perceiving  the  commercial  value  of  this  and  similar  fruits, 
set  the  "  boom  "  going  that  has  already  attained  immense 
proportions,  and  is  increasing  annually  with  gigantic  strides. 
At  present,  the  orange  is  undoubtedly  the  staple  product 


Okange-Tuees. 


of  the  State  :  it  is  to  Florida  what  cattle  are  to  Texas, 
corn  and  pork  to  Illinois,  wheat  to  Iowa,  and  peaches  to 
Delaware. 


ORANGE-CULTURE.  241 

An  orange-tree  is  a  very  attractive  sight  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year — with  a  straight,  symmetrical,  upright  trunk 
covered  with  a  smooth,  sleek,  pale-gray  bark,  and  graceful 
curving  branches  which  spread  in  all  directions  and  are  al- 
ways clothed  with  an  abundant  foliage  of  rich,  glossy,  dark- 
green  leaves — that  is,  if  the  tree  is  well  cared  for.  Its  regu- 
lar blossoming  season  is  the  spring,  but  trees  may  be  seen 
in  blossom  at  all  seasons,  and  sometimes  one  may  see  on 
the  same  tree  blossoms,  and  green  and  mature  fruit.  The 
blossom  is  a  small  star-shaped  flower,  snow-white,  and  of  a 
waxy  look.  The  oranges  ripen  from  late  in  November 
until  early  in  March,  depending  somewhat  upon  the  variety 
and  the  season  ;  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more 
fascinating  spectacle  than  a  grove,  or  even  a  single  tree, 
when  fully  laden  with  its  ripe,  goklen-hued,  luscious  fruit. 

The  orange  is  a  very  hardy  tree  in  its  own  natural 
habitat  and  under  the  right  conditions — cold  being  its  chief 
enemy.  It  is  sociable,  too,  and  appears  to  like  human  com- 
panionship ;  it  being  a  noticeable  fact  that  those  trees  that 
are  nearest  inhabited  dwellings  are  usually  the  largest  and 
most  prolific.  It  continues  to  grow  until  thirty  to  forty 
years  of  age,  and  is  estimated  to  alford  a  productive  yield 
for  at  least  a  hundred  years.  In  a  famous  grove  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  State  stands  a  tree  known  to  be  up- 
ward of  eighty  years  old,  yet  it  has  every  appearance  of 
youthful  vigor,  and  l)ears  enormous  crops.  Orange-trees 
are  hardly  in  what  can  be  called  their  prime  until  after 
they  are  twenty  years  old,  and  then  they  increase  in  value 
for  at  least  twenty  years  more. 

It  is  surprising  under  how  much  neglect  the  orange  will 
live  and  even  thrive,  but,  in  order  to  be  made  a  reliable 
source  of  profit,  it  must  be  constantly  and  intelligently 
cared  for.  The  remainder  of  this  chapter  will  be  devoted 
to  pointing  out  a  few  of  the  essential  conditions  of  success- 
ful   orano;e-culture — such   as   will    enable   the    beginner   to 


24:2  FLORIDA. 

avoid  the  mistakes  that  are  most  commonly  made  ;  but, 
for  more  specific  and  minute  details,  the  proposed  fruit- 
grower must  provide  himself  with  a  trustworthy  and  com- 
prehensive treatise.* 

LocATiox. — This  is  the  most  important  consideration  in 
starting  a  grove,  ^\^ith  proper  care  oranges  will  grow  in 
almost  any  part  of  Florida,  but  it  is  wise  to  select  a  location 
which  combines  the  largest  possible  number  of  favorable 
conditions.  As  1  have  already  said,  cold  is  the  greatest 
enemy  of  the  orange-grower,  and  a  fierce  controversy  has 
been  raging  for  several  yeai's  between  different  sections  of 
the  State  as  to  what  is  called  a  "  frost-line,"  above  which, 
so  it  is  said,  orange-culture  can  not  be  pursued  with  any 
confidence  in  the  returns,  while  below  it  the  danger  from 
frost  is  very  slight.  This  line  is  usually  placed  at  the 
twenty-eighth  or  twenty-ninth  degree  of  latitude.  Those 
living  south  of  the  "  f ro3t-line  "  direct  attention  to  the  fact 
that  during  the  severe  winters  of  1870-77  and  1880-81 
nearly  all  the  fruit  in  the  section  north  of  it  was  irreme- 
diably spoiled  and  lost.  On  the  other  hand,  those  living 
north  of  the  line  call  attention  to  the  undeniable  fact  that 
a  large  majority  of  the  old  and  productive  groves  are  lo- 
cated above  the  supposed  line,  and  that  immensely  the 
larger  portion  of  the  "  Florida  oranges"  have  been  for  many 
years,  and  are  still,  furnished  by  this  section.  It  is  difficult 
to  reach  any  definite  conclusions  regarding  tlie  matter,f  as 

*  Much  tlie  best  work  on  the  subject  is  Rev.  T.  W.  Moore's  ''  Treatise 
and  Handbook  on  Orange-Culture  in  Florida,"  of  which  a  new,  revised,  and 
enlarged  edition  has  just  baen  published  by  E.  R.  Pelton  &  Co.,  25  IJond 
Street,  New  York. 

f  My  own  personal  opinion  is  that  it  is,  to  say  the  least,  prwlcnt  to  get 
as  far  south  as  possible.  There  can  bo  no  doubt  that  killing  frosts  arc 
rarer  in  the  more  southern  portions  of  the  peninsula,  and  it  is  well  to  avoid 
as  many  risks  as  possible,  even  if  it  bo  admitted  that  no  portion  of  the 
State  is  wholly  exempt  from  frost.  Moreover,  there  are  other  tropical  an  1 
semi-tropical  fruits  the  culture  of  which  may  be  profitably  combined  witli 


ORANGE-CULTURE.  2i3 

both  views  are  advocated  with  equal  ardor  and  sincerity  by 
equally  able  and  experienced  men.  There  are  two  or  three 
points,  however,  that  may  be  regarded  as  settled.  The  in- 
dustry can  not  be  entered  upon  with  any  certainty  in  the 
northern  or  northwestern  portions  of  the  State.  Most  of  the 
old  and  valuable  groves  in  the  upper  division  are  located 
on  the  east  side  of  the  St.  John's  River,  and  their  compara- 
tive immunity  from  the  effects  of  cold  is  attributed  to  the 
extensive  water-protection  on  the  northwest.  Mr.  ]Moore 
considers  that  the  water-protection  afforded  by  the  St.  John's 
is  equivalent  to  at  least  one  hundred  miles  of  southerly  dis- 
tance ;  and  throughout  the  peninsula  it  is  considered  de- 
sirable to  secure  the  protection  of  a  body  of  water  on  the 
northwest,  the  direction  whence  the  cold  winds  corae.  In 
the  absence  of  water,  a  protection  of  forest-trees  is  valuable, 
but  these  should  shelter  the  trees  on  the  southeast.  Another 
important  consideration  in  locating  an  orange-grove  is  ac- 
cessibility to  market  :  one  should  be  sure  to  locate  himself 
either  near  some  established  line  of  transportation  or  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  some  line  that  is  sure  to  be  established 
in  the  near  future.  To  haul  oranges  even  ten  miles  over 
such  roads  as  those  of  Florida  is  no  slight  task,  and  the 
fruit  is  very  liable  to  l)e  damaged  in  the  process  and  thus 
rendered  worthless. 

Soil,  etc. — Says  Mr.  Moore  :  "  The  orange  will  grow  in 
a  variety  of  soils — in  clayey,  sandy,  shelly,  or  loamy  soils, 
in  hammocks  black  or  gray,  on  pine-lands  or  black-jack 
ridges.  It  does  well  on  soil  underlaid  with  clay  or  sand. 
It  will  even  do  well  on  a  light  soil  underlaid  with  Avhitc 
sand  if  fertilizei's  are  applied  annually.  But  whoever 
wishes  to  plant  an  orange-grove  should  be  careful  to  select 
the  best  available  soil.  Perhaps  the  poorest  soil  suitable 
for  orange-growing  is  that  underlaid  with  a  white  sand,  as 

that  of  the  oran^^c,  and  these  can  not  be  grown  with  profit  north  of  Lake 
(ieorue.— G.  M.  B. 


244  FLOniDA. 

sucli  a  soil  leaches  very  readily  the  soluble  manure.  Per- 
haps the  best  soil  is  found  in  our  dark-gi'ay  hammock  with 
deep  soil  underlaid  with  a  yellow  cl^y  or  yellow  sand  sub- 
soil. The  natural  growth  should  be  tall  and  large  with  an 
abundance  of  live-oak  and  hickory,  as  such  a  growth  would 
indicate  an  abundance  of  lime.  Of  our  pine-land,  that  on 
which  the  hickory  is  found  mixed  with  the  pine,  with  yellow 
subsoil,  should  rank  first.  Such  a  soil  is  really  a  mixed 
hammock  and  pine.  Next  to  this  is  the  pine  mixed  with 
willow,  oak,  and  black-jack.  Considering  the  ease  with 
which  such  lands  as  the  last  two  classes  are  cleared  and 
planted,  the  readiness  with  which  the  orange  grows  on  them, 
they  deserve  a  high  rank,  and  especially  if  fertilizers  are 
close  at  hand.  In  selecting  a  location  in  the  purely  pine- 
lands,  select  that  which  is  thickly  set  with  tall  trees,  well 
drained,  and  with  a  yellow  subsoil.  Such  soils,  if  occa- 
sionally dressed  with  alkaline  manures,  grow  the  orange 
admirably."  Low  pine-lands,  called  "  flat  woods,"  should  be 
avoided,  and  all  lands  which  have  a  subsoil  of  "  hard-pan  " 
or  quicksand.  The  trees  grow  more  vigorously  on  the  low, 
rich  hammocks,  but  it  is  thought  that  they  do  not  attain  such 
great  age  as  on  the  high  lands,  and  the  fruit  is  less  adapted 
for  transportation.  Mr.  Davis  says,  "  AVhere  high,  hard- 
wood hammock -lands  can  be  had,  they  should  be  preferred, 
other  things  being  equal."  No  wet  land — no  soil  not  sus- 
ceptible of  thorough  drainage — will  do  for  orange-culture. 

Prices  of  Land,  Clearing,  etc. — There  is  still  much 
land  to  be  had  in  Florida  at  the  Government  j^rice  (one 
dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  acre),  but  these  are  rarely 
so  situated  in  respect  to  transportation  facilities  that  it  is 
wise  to  put  an  orange-grove  upon  them.  The  price  of  lajid 
held  for  sale  by  private  parties  ranges  from  five  to  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars  per  acre,  the  difference 
being  due  mainly  to  greater  or  less  nearness  to  settlements 
or  to  lines  of  transportation.      Choice   "  lake-fronts "  arc 


OEAXGE-CULTUEE.  24:5 

usually  the  most  costly.  The  cost  of  clearing  pine-land 
is  from  ten  to  thirty  dollars  per  acre,  according  to  the 
amount  of  undergrowth  and  the  amount  of  "  grubbing " 
required  ;  of  clearing  hammock-lands,  from  thirty  to  one 
hundred  dollars  per  acre.  The  cost  of  plowing  the  land 
and  preparing  it  for  the  trees  is  from  three  to  live  doUai's 
par  acre.  It  is  very  important  to  have  the  soil  properly 
prepared.  Orange-trees  will  not  thrive  on  new,  "sour" 
land,  and  it  is  desirable  to  have  the  soil  thoroughly  broken 
up  and  pulverized  some  time  before  the  trees  ai'e  planted. 
The  best  plan  of  all  is  first  to  raise  a  crop  of  cow-peas  on 
the  land,  and,  when  these  have  been  turned  under,  then  set 
out  the  trees. 

Selecting  the  TRKEi;.^-In  their  serviceable  little 
"  Guide  to  Orange-Culture "  the  Manville  Brothers  say  : 
"  Young,  transplanted  trees  from  the  nursery  should  be 
selected  ;  they  have  well-developed  fibrous  roots,  are  little 
retarded  by  moving,  and  easily  adapt  themselves  to  the 
various  circumstances  of  soil,  location,  etc.  The  orange 
does  not  re})roduce  itself  with  certainty  from  the  seed. 
Seedling  trees  are  much  longer  in  attaining  maturity  than 
budded  trees,  and  have  no  advantages  over  the  latter. 
Budded  trees  should  therefore  be  selected  in  all  cases.  So- 
called  '  sour  stocks  '  are  more  hardy  and  vigorous  than  the 
sweet  ;  they  are  especially  adapted  to  low  land,  where  the 
latter  do  not  thrive.  Sweet  stocks  are  admissible  on  the 
high  lands,  and  are  preferred  by  some.  A  bud  of  one  or 
two  years'  growth  on  a  stock  three  or  four  years  old,  is  the 
most  profitable  and  convenient  size  and  age."  It  used  to 
be  represented,  probably  by  interested  parties,  that  sweet 
seedlings  grow  larger  and  ultimately  produce  more  abun- 
dantly than  budded  trees  ;  but  experiment  has  dis})roved 
this,  and  it  is  now  admitted  that  the  budded  trees  not  only 
bear  several  years  earlier  than  the  seedlings,  ])ut  make 
quite  as  productive  and  vigorous  tre^-s.     In   choosing   the 


24:0  FLORIDA. 

young  trees  in  the  nursery,  choose  those  that  have  the 
hirgest  trunks. 

Varieties  of  the  Orange. — These  are  very  numer- 
ous— in  fact,  I  have  never  met  any  one,  even  am.ong  those 
regarded  as  high  authority,  who  couhl  tell  just  how  many 
kinds  there  are.  Upward  of  sixty  varieties  are  mentioned 
in  some  publications,  yet  the  growers  say  there  are  many 
more,  and  every  grower  has  one  or  two  special  varieties  of 
his  own.  In  Mr.  Moore's  treatise  there  is  a  comprehensive 
chapter  on  the  different  varieties,  which  the  reader  would 
do  well  to  consult,  as  it  is  not  possible  here  to  do  more 
than  name  a  few  of  those  which  form  the  staple  of  an 
orange-grove.  Of  the  common  native  sweet  orange,  always 
good  and  reliable,  good  varieties  arc  the  Nonpareil,  the 
Homosassa,  the  Magnum  Bonum,  the  Peerless,  and  the 
sweet  Seville.  The  Xavel  orange,  so  named  because  the 
bloom -end  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  human 
navel,  is  excellent  and  popular.  Of  the  imported  varieties, 
the  Jaffa  has  the  reputation  of  being  a  remarkably  early 
bearer,  and  the  Mediterranean '  Sweet  ranks  high.  Tlie 
Mandarin  or  Tangierine  orange  is  of  small  size,  but  very 
dainty  and  clean  in  appearance,  and  of  a  peculiar  fruity 
flavor.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  "  kid-glove  orange," 
because  you  can  break  the  skin  and  peel  it  without  using 
a  knife  or  staining  the  fingers.  The  "  sour  "  orange  has 
the  flavor  of  the  lemon,  and  makes  a  good  orangeade  and 
a  wine  that  resembles  sherry.  The  "  bitter-sweet "  has  a 
skin  bitter  as  gall,  but  the  pulp  is  sweet,  and  an  excellent 
wine  is  made  from  it.  The  "  myrtle "  is  a  small  variety 
which  grows  in  clusters  and  has  a  very  sour  taste  ;  it  is 
quite  a  favorite  with  housewives,  for  it  makes  delicious 
wine,  orangeade,  or  preserves. 

Distances  apart  of  the  Trees.  —  Some  growers 
recommend  twenty  feet  as  the  proper  distance,  some 
twenty-five,    and   some   thirty.     The    closer   they   are   to- 


ORANGE- CULTURE.  247 

gether,  of  course  the  less  is  the  expense  of  land  and  culti- 
vation, but  on  the  other  hand  the  trees  are  stunted  ulti- 
mately if  placed  too  close  to  each  other.  Twenty-five  feet 
is  probably  a  good  medium.  At  twenty  feet  apart,  there 
will  be  one  hundred  trees  to  the  acre  ;  at  twenty-five  feet 
apart,  seventy-two  trees  to  the  acre  ;  at  thirty  feet  apart, 
fifty-six  trees  to  the  acre. 

Plantixg. — Under  favorable  circumstances  trees  may 
be  transplanted  with  success  during  any  month  of  the  year, 
but  the  best  time  is  when  the  sap  is  dormant,  from  Decem- 
ber to  March.  If  planted  in  summer,-  watering,  mulching, 
and  shading  will  probably  be  necessary.  In  removing  the 
trees  from  the  nursery,  as  many  roots  as  possible  should  be 
taken  up,  and  great  care  should  be  exercised  to  avoid 
breaking  or  bruising  them.  Whenever  they  are  thus  in- 
jured, they  should  be  trimmed  with  a  sharp  knife.  The 
tap-root  should  be  left  about  twelve  or  eighteen  inches 
long  ;  if  too  long  it  will  double  up  on  being  reset.  The 
holes  for  the  trees  should  be  freshly  dug,  and  must  not  be 
too  deep  ;  more  trees  are  lost  by  too  deep  planting  than 
from  any  other  cause.  As  the  trees  always  settle  a  little 
after  being  set  out,  they  should  be  raised  three  or  four 
inches  above  the  surface,  to  allow  for  this.  The  u])per  or 
brace  roots  must  not  be  covered  up  at  the  collar  ;  and 
under  no  circumstances  should  the  tree  be  set  deeper  than 
it  stood  in  the  nursery.  The  earth  should  be  pressed  care- 
fully and  firmly  about  the  I'oots  Avith  the  hand,  giving 
them  as  nearly  as  possible  their  original  position.  It  is 
better  to  select  a  cool,  wet  time  for  planting,  but,  if  the 
ground  is  dry,  water  should  be  plentifully  suj)])lied  wlien 
the  work  is  finished.  ]\[anville  Brothers  recomniend  that 
the  newly-planted  trees  be  mulched,  whether  the  season 
be  wet  or  dry  ;  Mr.  Moore  recommends  it  only  in  case 
the  planting  is  done  in  hot  summer  weather.  Before 
the  tree  is  left,  its  upper  part  shouhl  be   trimmed  in   i»ro- 


24:8  FLORIDA. 

portion  to  the  trimming  which  the  roots  have  been  subject- 
ed to. 

CuLTiVATiox. — Contrary  to  what  used  to  be  the  preva- 
lent idea,  the  orange  inquires  careful  cultivation,  and  will 
not  really  flourish  without  it.  During  the  growing  season 
(spring  and  summer)  the  more  frequently  the  soil  is  stirred 
the  better  ;  during  the  winter  the  cultivation  may  be  sus- 
pended, though  some  think  it  best  to  keep  the  ground  free 
from  grass  and  weeds  the  year  round.  Mr.  Moore  favors 
the  latter  policy,  but  in  this  matter  something  depends  upon 
the  character  of  the  soil.  For  the  first  two  or  three  years 
vegetables  may  be  grown  among  the  young  trees,  but  they 
should  never  be  planted  nearer  than  four  or  five  feet  from 
the  tree.  Moreover,  no  crop  should  be  raised  without  first 
applying  an  ample  quantity  of  fertilizers  to  the  soil,  and 
the  area  plowed  each  year  must  be  gradually  narrowed. 
If  the  roots  are  injured,  the  trees  suffer  seriously  ;  hence, 
among  older  trees,  where  the  roots  have  extended  them- 
selves over  a  considerable  part  of  the  surface,  the  best 
implement  for  cultivating  is  the  "  sweep,"  Avhich  keeps 
down  the  grass  and  weeds  without  going  deep  enough  to 
damage  the  roots.  Particular  care  must  be  taken  in  cul- 
tivating not  to  allow  the  soil  to  pile  uj:)  around  the  trunks 
of  the  trees. 

Fertilizing. — The  orange-tree  is  a  ravenous  feeder,  and 
requires  a  soil  rich  in  plant-food  ;  and  if  the  locality  chosen 
for  the  grove  does  not  contain  this  in  the  requisite  quantity, 
the  want  will  have  to  be  supplied.  According  to  Dr.  G.  W. 
Davis,  the  best  fertilizer  for  the  young  growing  orange-tree 
is  well-rotted  stable-manure.  Manville  Brothers  recommend 
muck  composted  with  animal  manures,  or  with  lime.  Com- 
mercial fertilizers  designed  especially  for  the  orange-tree 
are  numerous,  and  some  are  doubtless  valuable.  Mr.  Moore 
recommends  the  muck  found  in  rivers,  creeks,  lakes,  and 
ponds  ;  and  remarks  that  green  crops  turned  under  are  high- 


ORANGE-CULTURE.  249 

ly  beneficial  to  young  trees.  "  Rye,  oats,  and  barley  sown 
in  the  fall  and  turned  under  in  the  spring,  and  followed 
by  one  or  two  crops  of  cow-peas  during  the  summer, 
help  forward  a  grove  of  trees  wonderfully.  It  is  still 
better  if  this  be  accompanied  by  a  dressing  of  wood- 
ashes  ;  one  ton  to  the  acre  is  not  too  much."  Of  course, 
in  applying  fertilizei's  the  orange-grower  must  be  guided 
by  the  special  qualities  of  his  soil,  supplying  those  ele- 
ments which  are  lacking.  AVhen  the  leaves  of  a  tree  are 
yellowish  in  hue,  there  is  probably  a  deficiency  of  nitro- 
genous manures,  while  leaves  of  a  dark,  vivid  green  indi- 
cate an  abundance.  In  general,  it  may  be  said  that  young 
and  growing  trees  require  nitrogenous  manures,  Avhile 
bearing  trees  require  abundance  of  potash.  Owing  to  the 
porosity  of  most  of  the  Florida  soils,  it  is  better  to  give  the 
grove  a  light  annual  dressing  than  to  apply  a  large  quan- 
tity at  once. 

Pruning. — Judicious  pruning  is  highly  important  in  an 
orange-grove.  The  tree  shoiild  be  encouraged  to  form  a 
low  head,  so  as  to  protect  the  trunk  and  roots  from  sun  and 
frost  ;  and  the  interior  of  the  tree  should  be  kept  open  by 
cutting  out  all  except  the  most  vigorous  lateral  branches. 
Dead  wood  should  be  cut  away  ;  also  all  diseased  or  un- 
shapely branches.  "  Water-shoots  "  on  the  trunk  should  be 
cut  or  pulled  off.  The  principal  pruning  should  be  done  in 
the  spring  and  with  a  sharp  knife.  It  may  be  slackened 
M'hen  the  trees  come  into  bearing. 

IxsKCTS  AND  DisEASKS. — As  a  rulc,  the  orange-tree  is 
not  subject  to  many  diseases,  particularly  if  the  trees  are 
kept  in  a  healthy,  vigorous  condition,  with  the  ground  well 
cultivated.  The  most  formidable  insect  enemy  is  the  scale- 
insect,  but  it  seldom  attacks  any  but  feeble  trees.  For  re- 
moving them,  apply  a  strong  solution  of  whale-oil  soaji ; 
and  if  this  fails.  Dr.  Davis  recommends  the  following  :  Dis- 
solve five  pouiuls  of  any  hard  soap  in  a  small  (piantity  of 


250  FLORIDA. 

boiling  water,  put  it  into  a  forty-gallon  cask,  add  ten 
pounds  of  carbonate  of  soda,  broken  into  small  lumps,  fill 
the  cask  with  soft  water,  and  stir  until  it  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved ;  scrub  the  trunk  and  branches  with  a  brush  dipped 
in  this  solution,  and  shower  the  tops  and  foliage  with  it  by 
means  of  a  rose-nibbed  syringe.  Against  other  insects  the 
best  protection  is  a  good  flock  of  fowls.  The  cause  of 
"  rust "  is  not  yet  fully  made  out,  some  claiming  that  it  is 
due  to  an  insect,  others  to  a  fungus.  Slaked  lime  from 
burned  oyster-shells  sown  broadcast  over  the  grove  and 
allowed  to  sift  ligbtly  through  the  branches  and  leaves  of 
the  trees,  is  a  good  corrective.  The  most  serious  disease  is 
that  known  as  the  "  die-back."  If  this  is  confined  to  a  few 
branches,  it  may  be  due  to  the  stins^  of  an  insect.  If,  on 
the  other  hand,  it  is  general,  it  shows  either  that  the  trees 
have  been  planted  too  deeply  (and  the  remedy  is  to  dig 
away  the  soil  or  to  reset  the  tree),  or  that  the  roots  have 
struck  a  "  hard-pan  "  subsoil  (and  for  this  there  is  no  rem- 
edy but  removal  to  another  site). 

In  conclusion,  it  must  be  said  that  orange-groves  do  not 
make  themselves  ;  their  value,  indeed,  consists  in  the  very 
fact  that  it  takes  years  of  hard  labor  and  a  very  consider- 
able expenditure  of  money  in  the  mean  while  to  raise  them. 
As  to  the  returns  that  may  be  expected,  one  is  generally 
told  that  in  three  years  from  the  setting,  if  budded  trees 
ai*e  put  out,  the  grove  will  be  in  bearing.  While  this  is 
true  in  the  sense  that  some  oranges  may  then  be  found 
upon  the  trees,  it  is  also  true  that  no  paying  crop  can  be 
looked  for  in  so  brief  a  period.  As  a  general  thing,  if  the 
grove  has  been  propej-ly  cared  for,  it  ought  to  be  self-sup- 
porting by  the  iifth  year,  after  Avhich  its  returns  should 
gradually  increase  year  by  year,  until  at  the  end  of  ten  or 
twelve  years  the  crop,  at  a  cent  an  orange  on  the  tree  (the 
price  is  now  much  higher),  should  yield  ten  dollars  per  tree. 
Estimates  are  usually  made  much  higher  than  this  ;  and, 


ORANGE-CULTURE.  251 

indeed,  there  are  trees  in  Florida  the  fruit  from  which  will 
annually  bring  upward  of  a  hundred  dollars  each  ;  but 
these  are  very  rare  exceptions,  and  I  believe  the  estimate  I 
have  given  to  be  a  fair  one.  At  least,  if  one  expects  no 
more  than  that,  he  may  be  reasonably  sure  of  not  being 
disappointed. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

OTHER   TROPICAL    AXD    SEMI-TROPICAL    FRTTITS, 

The  extent  of  the  subject  properly  belonging  to  this 
chapter,  and  the  variety  of  products  that  must  be  dealt 
with,  are  so  great  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  any  one 
to  treat  it  adequately  from  individual  knowledge  of  all  the 
facts.  The  knowledge  and  the  experience  of  others  must 
be  relied  upon  in  large  measure,  and  fortunately  the  fruits 
of  this  knowledge  and  experience  are  i*eadily  obtainable. 
Within  the  past  fifteen  years  much  attention  has  been  giv- 
en to  the  procurement  of  accurate  data  concerning  the  re- 
sources of  the  State  ;  the  State  Bureau  of  Immigi-ation,  and 
nearly  all  the  counties,  besides  many  special  associations 
and  societies — horticultural,  agricultural,  and  stock — hav- 
ing expended  large  sums  in  the  investigation.  Persons  of 
known  competency  and  trustworthiness  have  generally 
made  these  investigations  ;  and  the  results  have  been  given 
to  the  public  in  various  pamphlets,  circulars,  reports,  ad- 
dresses, and  newspaper  articles.  I  have  collected  many  of 
these  pamphlets,  etc.,  especially  those  the  authors  of  which 
are  known  to  be  able  and  intelligent  persons,  fully  ac- 
quainted with  the  topic  written  of,  not  only  from  observa- 
tion but  from  practical  experience,  often  of  many  years. 
In  the  following  statements  and  suggestions  I  have  supple- 
mented my  own  knowledge  and  observations  with  the  in- 
formation thus  acquired  ;  and  as  the  chapter  has  been  sub- 
mitted, since  it  was  written,  to  the  scrutiny  of  several  com- 


OTHER   TROPICAL  FRUITS.  953 

petent  persons,  it  is  believed  that,  as  far  as  it  goes,  it  can 
be  relied  upon. 

After  the  orange,  wliich  is  fully  treated  of  in  the  previ- 
ous chapter,  the  most  important  of  the  semi-tropical  fruits 
is — 

The  Lemox. — The  lemon  is  produced  in  the  orange-belt 
of  Florida  to  a  degree  of  perfection  far  surpassing  any- 
thing of  the  kind  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

The  tree  gi-ows  more  rapidly,  produces  fruit  sooner, 
bears  a  larger  crop,  and  has  larger  and  better-flavored  lem- 
ons, than  are  found  anywhere  else.  I  have  seen  and  picked 
lemons  of  one  and  a  half  to  two  pounds'  weight,  and  at  the 
State  Fair  saw  lemons  weighing  two  and  a  half  pounds  ! 
In  many  respects  the  lemon-tree  resembles  the  orange,  and 
its  cultivation  is  the  same,  except  that  it  does  not  require 
such  rich  soil  ;  it  does  best  on  a  light,  sandy  soil.  It  is  a 
tenderer  plant,  however,  requiring  care  to  protect  it  from 
the  cold,  which  it  can  not  bear  as  Avell  as  the  orange.  Be- 
low the  frost-line,  of  course,  there  is  no  danger,  and  it  may 
be  left  to  itself.  It  is  a  rapid  and  rampant  grower,  not 
so  smooth  and  graceful  as  an  orange-tree,  but  spreading 
out  its  branches  wildly  in  all  directions  up  and  down.  It 
commences  bearing  fruit  about  two  or  three  years  sooner 
than  the  orange-tree,  and  bears  much  larger  croj^s.  An 
orange-tree  may  be  expected  to  bear  in  its  sixth  year  two 
hundred  oranges  and  one  thousand  in  its  tenth  year  ;  the 
lemon-tree  will  bear  in  its  third  year  two  hundred  lemons 
and  five  thousand  in  its  tenth  year,  on  the  average.  The 
first  two  or  three  crops  are  usually  a  coarse,  spongy  fruit, 
but  the  succeeding  crops  im])rove  each  year  in  delicacy  and 
excellence. 

The  fruit  bears  handling  and  transportation  remarkably 
well,  and  it  is  generally  thought  by  competent  observers 
that  it  will  prove  quite  as  profitable  a  crop  as  the  orange, 
with  the  advantage  of  ])roduiing  returns  two  to  three  years 


254  FLORIDA. 

sooner.  It  is  destined  to  become  a  very  important  prod- 
U{;t. 

The  Lime. — This  is  a  very  dainty  and  delicious  fruit, 
smaller  in  size  but  otherwise  closely  resembling  the  lemon. 
The  juice  is  more  agreeably  acid  and  makes  a  very  pleas- 
ant drink  ;  a  glass  of  limeonade  is  sure  to  be  remembered 
with  pleasure.  It  grows  very  rapidly,  like  a  small  lemon- 
tree,  bears  in  its  third  year,  and  produces  large  crops.  The 
culture  is  precisely  the  same. 

The  Citroj^. — This  is  the  chief  of  the  citric  family  of 
fruits.  It  is  in  all  respects  like  the  orange,  in  appearance 
of  the  tree  as  well  as  in  the  care  required.  The  fruit  close- 
ly resembles  the  orange,  except  that  it  is  larger  and  more 
yellow  in  color.  Plucked  from  the  tree,  it  is  not  a  pleasant 
fruit  to  eat.  Heretofore  but  little  attention  has  been  paid 
to  the  cultivation  of  this  fruit  in  Florida,  except  for  variety 
and  ornament,  and  it  is  not  usual  to  observe  more  than  one 
or  two  trees  in  a  large  garden  of  several  acres  in  extent, 
though  it  is  grown  here  with  the  greatest  ease  and  perfec- 
tion, frequently  producing  fruit  weighing  ten  pounds,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  but  that  it  may  be  cultivated,  preserved, 
and  introduced  into  our  home-markets  as  an  article  of  com- 
merce, with  great  profit  to  the  producer.  There  is  no  other 
variety  of  this  species  so  easily  j^ropagated,  and  none  more 
hardy,  or  that  yields  its  fruit  so  quickly,  or  produces  more 
abundantly  ;  and  the  circumstance  that  both  the  fruit  and 
the  sugar  for  preserving  it  are  produced  in  the  same  field, 
wdth  equal  facility,  gives  to  the  American  cultivator  a  great 
advantage  over  the  foreign  producer  in  our  market.  The 
citron  prepared  and  preserved  by  private  families  in  Florida 
for  home  use  is  of  much  finer  quality,  lighter  colored,  and 
more  transparent,  than  the  imported. 

Bergamot. — This  is  a  hybrid  of  the  orange  and  the 
lemon,  is  small,  yellow  in  color,  has  a  thick  skin,  is  juicy, 
with  a  sour-sweet,  flavorless  taste.     It  is  cultivated  chiefly 


OTHER   TROPICAL  FRUITS. 


255 


for  the  oil  which  is  distilled  from  the  rind,  and  known  to 
chemists  and  in  the  trade  as  "  oil  of  bergamot." 

The  F'ig, — This  delicious  fruit  grows  with  remarkable 
vigor  and  thrift  in  all  portions  of  the  State.  It  is  quite 
hardy,  bears  in  the  third  year,  produces  large  crops,  and 
is  a  profitable  fruit,  requiring  little  care   or  expense.     It 


TiiK  Fig. 


very  closely  resembles  the  quince-tree  of  the  Xorth,  in  ap- 
pearance. A  simple  preparation  of  figs  by  boiling  in  sirup 
furnishes  a  most  palatable  and  wholesome  preserve  that 
only  needs  to  be  known  to  become  a  universal  favorite. 
If  figs  can  be  prepared  for  a  lucrative  market  by  drying 
anywhere  on  earth,  it  can  be  done  in  Florida  ;  and  though 
it  has  been  done  but  little  as  yet,  it  is  certain  to  be  one  of 
the  industries  of  the  future. 

The  Olive. — With  the  exception  of  a  few  trees  grown 
for  ornament,  this  most  valuable  ti*ee  has  not  been  culti- 
vated in  Florida.  That  it  will  succeed  and  produce  large 
crops  is  undoubted,  judging  from  the  few  specimens  now 


256  FLORIDA. 

growing  ;  and  attention  having  been  directed  to  it  recently, 
it  will  probably  be  extensively  planted.  It  begins  to  bear 
about  ten  years  from  the  seed,  bears  annually,  and  increases 
in  the  amount  of  product  to  the  age  of  thirty  years.  It  is 
very  long-lived,  some  trees  in  Southern  Eui'ope  being  known 
to  be  eight  hundred  years  old  and  showing  no  signs  of  de- 
cay. The  fruit  and  the  oil  made  from  it  are  valuable  as 
food,  and  in  demand  for  commercial  purposes. 

The  Pinkapple. — This  delicious  plant  2)roduces  re- 
markably fine  large  fruit  in  all  portions  of  South  Florida. 
It  is  the  king  of  tropical  fruits.     It  is  planted  from  the 


A    PlNEAPPLE-Pr.ANT. 

suckers  or  shoots  taken  from  the  matured  fruit  and  stock. 
These  can  be  purchased  at  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  and 
a  half  cents  each  ;  and  about  twelve  thousand  can  be 
planted  on  one  acre,  placed  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches 
apart.  They  bear  fruit  in  the  twentieth  month,  and  con- 
tinue bearing  all  the  year. 

The  owner  of  a  pineapple  patch  can  have  fruit  every 
day  of  the  year.  They  require  little  or  no  care,  nor  very 
rich  soil,  nor  fertilizing  ;  but  they  can  not  bear  cold,  and 
care  must  be  taken  to  protect  them  from  frosts.  An  acre 
is  certain  to  produce  six  to  ten  thousand  pineapples,  which 
sell  readily  at  prices  which  make  them  a  very  profitable  crop. 


OTHER   TROPICAL  FRUITS.  257 

The  Baxaxa. — This  fruit  is  planted  like  a  field  of  gi- 
gantic corn,  which  it  much  resembles  in  the  care  required  and 
young  growth,  but  it  attains  vast  size  with  immense  leaves. 
Each  stalk  produces  one  bunch  in  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
months,  which  sells  for  one  and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half 
dollars.  After  the  fruit  ripens,  the  large  leaves  fall  off, 
the  top  dies  down,  and  new  suckers  start  out  from  the 
roots.  One  of  these  suckers  is  sufficient  to  perpetuate  the 
old  stock,  and  the  rest  may  be  replanted  in  new  places,  to 
any  extent  desired.  No  fruit  is  moi'e  healthy  and  nutri- 
tious than  rij^e  bananas,  and  few  are  more  esteemed.  In 
South  American  countries  they  are  also  cooked  while  green, 
and  are  said  to  be  very  palatable. 

The  Coooaxut. — This  tropical  product  grows  vigor- 
ously in  the  keys  and  mainland  of  the  extreme  south- 
ern portion  of  the  State.  It  much  resembles  a  palm 
or  palmetto  tree  in  generally  appearance.  It  requires 
no  care  after  setting  out,  and  produces  fruit  after  the 
sixth  year.  It  does  well  in  Florida,  producing  extra- 
sized  fruit  of  excellent  quality.  A  tree  will  bear  from 
one  hundred  to  five  hundred  nuts  annually,  in  monthly 
bunches. 

The  Date,  etc.,  etc. — The  date,  tamarind,  sapodilla, 
papaw,  sugar-apple,  custard-apple,  and  all  similar  tropical 
fruits,  grow  abundantly  in  all  portions  of  tropical  Flor- 
ida, with  little  or  no  labor,  and  produce  large  crops  of  the 
best  quality  of  fruits  of  their  kind. 

Date  Palm. — This  excellent  and  valuable  fruit  is  culti- 
vated with  entire  success  south  of  28^  north  latitude,  and 
the  tree  often  perfects  its  fruit  as  far  north  as  30°  north 
latitude.  Numerous  large  and  beautiful  specimens  of  this 
tree  may  be  seen  in  the  gardens  at  St.  Augustine.  It  is  one 
of  the  mo:-;t  beautiful  trees  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Its 
long,  graceful,  ever-verdant,  ever-waving,  ever- changing 
branches  make   it  the  most  ]>icturesque  of  all   plants  for 


258 


FLORIDA. 


landscape-gardening,  and  should  adorn  the  grounds  of  every 
homestead  in  Florida. 

The  fruit  is  greatly  and  justly  esteemed  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Egypt,  Arabia,  and  Persia,  on  account  of  its  con- 
centrated and  nutritious  properties  :  large  numbers  subsist 
almost  entirely  upon  it.     It  is  generally  the  sole  food  of 


The  Date-Palm. 


the  Arabs  and  their  camels  on  their  long  and  tedious  jour- 
neys over  the  desert,  the  men  feeding  upon  the  fruit  and 


OTHER   TROPICAL   FRUITS.  259 

the  animals  upon  tlie  stones.  The  inhabitants  of  these 
countries  also  boast  of  the  medicinal  qualities  of  the  date- 
fruit,  and  of  the  numerous  uses  to  which  the  different  ])ro- 
ductions  of  this  tree  maybe  applied.  From  the  leaves  they 
make  couches,  baskets,  bags,  mats,  and  brushes  ;  from  the 
branches  or  stalks,  cages  for  their  poultry  and  fences  for 
their  gardens  ;  from  the  fibers  of  the  trunk,  thread,  ropes, 
and  rigging  ;  from  the  sap,  a  spirituous  liquor  ;  and  the 
body  of  the  trees  furnishes  fuel. 

The  date-palm  is  propagated  from  the  seeds  and  suckers, 
but  more  successfully  from  the  former.  The  cultivation  of 
this  fruit  should  be  greatly  extended,  as  it  may  become  an 
important  and  profitable  resource  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Southern  Florida.  The  bunches  or  clusters  of  this  fruit 
often  attain  a  weight  of  fifteen  pounds. 

The  Shaddock  (sometimes  called  mock-orange,  or  for- 
bidden fruit). — This  was  brought  from  China  to  the  West 
Indies  by  Captain  Shaddock,  from  whom  it  derives  its  pres- 
ent name.  There  are  at  least  six  varieties,  only  one  of  which 
is  useful  or  desirable  as  a  fruit.  Some  of  these  attain  a  very 
large  size,  frequently  weighing  ten  to  fourteen  pounds.  It 
is  chiefly  used  for  ornament  or  show,  and  where  several 
sorts  of  oranges  are  presented  at  dessert  it  forms  a  striking 
addition  to  the  varieties  in  the  way  of  contrast.  The  most 
desirable  variety  of  this  fruit  is  sometimes  called  grape- 
fruit. It  possesses  a  reddish  pulp,  witli  most  agreeable  sub- 
acid sweetness,  and  is  excellent  for  (picnching  thirst  ;  and 
from  the  thickness  of  its  rind  will  kcc])  longer  than  the 
fruit  of  any  other  of  the  citrus  family.  This  variety  is  well 
Vv'orth  cultivating  for  the  excellence  of  its  solid,  vinous 
pulp,  which  furnishes  a* substitute  for  other  acid  fruits  in 
pies,  tarts,  jellies,  etc. 

Lota'AT. — This  fruit  is  known  in  the  South  as  tlie  Jajian 
plum.  The  tree  is  an  evergreen,  and  grows  ten  to  twelve 
feet   high,   and   is  desirable   in   every   Southern  garden    on 


260  FLORIDA. 

account  of  its  hardiness,  withstanding  a  greater  degree  of 
cohl  than  any  of  the  serai-tropical  fruits.  It  ripens  its 
fruit  in  February  and  March,  when  most  other  fruits  are 
gone  ;  is  a  profuse  bearer,  and  is  readily  pi'opagated  by 
seeds  and  cuttings. 

.  Pp:aciies,  Nectarines,  Pears,  Plums,  etc. —  When 
peaches  begin  to  bloom  in  Delaware  and  New  Jersey,  they 
are  one  half  grown  in  Florida,  and  no  better  peach  country 
can  or  need  be  found  than  along  the  line  of  the  Florida 
Railroad.  At  one  year's  growth  from  the  pit,  peaches  often 
attain,  even  in  West  Florida,  the  height  of  ten  feet.  Care, 
selection,  and  attention  can  place  in  the  Northern  market 
the  choicest  peaches  from  Waldo  and  Starke,  several  weeks 
before  they  can  be  raised  North.  There  is  no  country 
where  the  marketing  of  peaches,  wdiether  fre.-h  or  dried, 
can  be  made  more  lucrative,  or  where  they  can  be  more 
profitably  canned.  This  tree  is  long-lived,  licalthy,  and  vig- 
orous throughout  Florida,  and  is  never  subject  to  injuries 
from  the  peach--worm  or  the  diseases  which  so  universally 
afflict  the  fruit  in  the  Northern  States.  The  most  delicious 
peaches  may  be  raised  almost  without  care  by  every  family, 
and  in  abundance  sufficient  even  for  the  economical  feeding 
of  swine.  The  early  varieties  of  this  fruit  ripen  in  the  be- 
ginning of  June,  and  the  latest  sorts  continue  until  late  in 
August.  The  earliest  and  the  latest  varieties  should  be 
chosen  for  cultivation  in  Florida,  as  the  rainy  season  com- 
mences in  July  and  contiimes  throughout  that  month,  caus- 
ing much  of  the  maturing  fruit  to  crack. 

The  nectarine,  the  apricot,  and  the  almond,  are  all  at 
home  in  Florida,  and  not  less  vigorous,  healthy,  or  produc- 
tive than  the  peach  ;  and  all  who  will  take  the  trouble  to 
plant  and  care  for  the  trees  may  be  assured  of  an  abundant 
reward. 

The  plum  and  the  prune  are  also  healthy  and  productive, 
being  entirely  exempt  from  the  ravages  of  the  curculio  so 


OTHER    TROPICAL  FRUITS.  261 

prevalent  at  the  North.  All  the  varieties  of  the  wild  plum 
are  indigenous  and  abundant  in  nearly  every  part  of  the 
State.  Many  of  the  varieties  are  of  excellent  quality,  and, 
when  cooked,  form  a  delicious  preserve  for  family  use  or  for 
canning. 

Pears  and  quinces  are  worthy  of  more  attention  than 
they  have  heretofore  received.  It  is  believed  that  some 
varieties  of  the  former  will  do  well,-but  as  yet  their  culti- 
vation has  not  been  sufficiently  tested  to  fix  their  status 
among  the  fruits  of  Florida.  Experiments  that  have  been 
made  seem  to  show  that  the  Leeomte  pears  can  be  made 
a  highly  pi'ofitable  crop.  They  are  nearly  as  attractive  in 
appearance  as  the  Bartlett,  are  but  little  inferior  in  flavor, 
and  can  be  put  into  the  Xew  York  market  at  a  time  when 
no  other  pear  can  be  found. 

The  Persimmon". — The  persimmon  is  found  wild  in 
every  section  of  the  State.  The  fruit,  at  least  to  the  na- 
tives, is  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and,  ripe  or  dry,  is  used 
largely  for  the  table  and  for  home-made  beer.  Some  Japan 
varieties  ar<i  now  being  introduced,  which  are  said  to  be  of 
very  large  size,  and  seedless.  The  Japanese  esteem  the 
persimmon  as  their  most  valuable  fruit. 

The  Pomegranate. — Pomegranates  are  of  two  kinds, 
the  sweet  and  sour.  The  bush  is  lai'ge,  graceful  in  foliage, 
and  beautiful  in  pendent  crimson  flovv'crs  and  fruit.  As  an 
ornamental  tree  it  is  one  of  the  best.  The  fleshy  covering 
of  the  seed  is  a  beautiful  pink,  and  has  a  pleasant,  subacid 
taste,  in  flavor  not  unlike  the  red  currant.  The  rind  is  bit- 
ter, and  often  used  medicinally  ;  also  for  domestic  coloring 
and  ink. 

The  Pecax. — This  tree  is  valuable  as  a  forest-tree  for 
its  lumber,  and  profitable  for  its  fruit.  It  is  now  being  ex- 
tensively planted,  requiring  only  the  ordinary  care  of  in- 
digenous trees.  The  cost  is  trifling.  It  bears  in  aljout  ten 
years  from  the  seed,  growing  straight,  tall,  an;l  graceful. 


262  FLO  HID  A. 

It  need  not  occupy  land  used  for  cultivation.  Some  culti- 
vators have  set  the  pecan  out  so  as  to  make  a  permanent 
boundary  line  of  their  land. 

Grapes  and  Cherries. — ^Nfost  of  the  American  and 
foreign  varieties  are  easily  grown,  ripening  from  June  to 
November.  The  St.  Augustine  grape,  so  called,  is  a  choice 
grape  for  eating  or  wine.  The  Scuppernong  in  all  its  varie- 
ties is  cultivated  largely,  being  a  rapid  grower,  an  abun- 
dant beai'er,  long-lived,  and  needing  but  little  pruning  or 
care.  It  is  found  most  profitable  as  a  table-grape  or  for 
wine.  Much  attention  is  being  given  to  the  growing  of 
grapes  and  the  making  of  wine. 

The  black  cherry  is  found  wild,  but  the  tame  or  culti- 
vated cherry  does-  not  seem  to  succeed,  though  we  see  no 
reason  why  it  should  not,  where  fruits  of  similar  habit 
grow  well. 

Blackberries  axd  Huckleberries. — The  low,  creep- 
ing blackberry,  or  dewberry,  abounds  in  old  fields  and  road- 
sides, and  ripens  in  April.  The  high-bush,  also  found  in 
the  same  localities,  ripens  in  June  and  July  ;  the  huckle- 
berry about  the  same  time.  All  bear  well,  and  can  be 
had  for  the  picking.  The  improved  kinds  do  well  where 
tried. 

Strawberries. — Thi;",  queen  oc  small  fruits  nowhere  in 
the  world  finds  a  better  location  for  culture  ;  plants  put 
out  in  September  fruit  often  in  Januaiy,  frequently  in  Feb- 
ruary, and  may  be  counted  in  full  bearing  and  ripening  in 
March  and  April.  The  growers  about  Jacksonville  and  up 
the  St.  John's  River  are  many,  and  shipments  have  been 
made  largely  and  profitably.  In  size,  color,  bouquet,  and 
taste  they  are  superior  to  most,  equal  to  the  best,  and 
surpassed  by  none  ;  the  best  varieties  only  are  grown. 
The  cultivators  pick  carefully,  select  and  pack  honestly  ; 
and  Florida  strawberries,  like  Florida  oranges,  have 
earned   a  name.     By  using  refrigerators  the  fruit  reaches 


OTHER   TROPICAL  FRUITS.  263 

New  York  and  other  Northern  cities,  fresh  and  cool,  only 
about  four  days  from  picking.  Being  always  in  advance 
of  any  other  locality  by  some  weeks,  the  first  shipments 
bring  large  prices,  and  the  demand  keeps  pace  with  the 
supply. 


12 


CHAPTER  XYII. 

FIELD    AND    FARM    PRODUCTS. 

All  the  crops  of  all  portions  of  America  can  be  grown 
in  Florida.  Some  produce  better  here  than  anywhere  else, 
others  no  better,  a  few  not  so  w'ell,  but  they  will  all  grow 
and  produce  fair  yields.  And  in  all  cases  they  require  less 
^  care  or  labor  than  elsewhere  ;  there  is  not  an  exception  to 
this  assertion  known  of  in  the  long  list  of  productions. 
Besides,  in  many  cases  the  same  soil  can  be  replanted  with 
the  same  or  some  other  product  within  the  same  year. 

Of  the  various  field-crops  cotton  has  by  custom  ranked 
as  the  staple  product  in  this  State  ;  however,  it  is  one  of  the 
least  productive,  although  it  pays  as  well  here  as  in  any 
other  State  or  country  where  it  can  be  grown.  Sugar  is 
the  "king"  field-product  of  Florida,  and  it  can  hardly  be 
doubted  that  ere  many  years  have  elapsed  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  sugar  and  molasses  that  are  now  imported  at 
the  cost  of  millions  of  dollars  from  Cuba  and  elsewhere  will 
be  drawn  from  the  soil  of  the  Peninsular  State. 

Sugar-Cane. — In  both  climate  and  soil,  Florida  is  pe- 
culiarly well  adapted  for  the  growth  of  sugar-cane,  the 
long  period  of  warm  weather  and  the  absence  of  cold  af- 
fording a  longer  period  for  the  cane  to  mature.  In  Louisi- 
ana, owing  to  the  frosts,  the  cane  never  tassels,  and  has  to 
be  ground  as  soon  as  mature  ;  in  South  Florida  it  always 
tassels,  and  can  be  worked  at  leisure  through  a  period  cov- 
ering several  months.  What  is  known  in  Louisiana  as 
"  fair  land  "  will  produce  from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thou- 


FIELD  AXD  FARM  PRODUCTS.  265 

Band  pounds  of  sugar  to  the  acre  ;  rich  land,  thoroughly 
fertilized,  will  produce  from  two  to  four  thousand  pounds. 
The  black  hammock  or  "sugar-lands"  of  Florida  will  pro- 
duce at  least  equally  large  crops,  and  it  is  believed  b\-many 
planters  that,  Avith  fertilizing,  the  pine-lands  will  produce 
as  well,  and  of  a  better  quality.  The  soils  of  Central  and 
South  riorida  are,  in  general,  peculiarly  adapted  for  the  cane. 
Here  the  cane  matures  and  perfects  its  seed,  and  often  at- 
tains a  height  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  even  when  grown 
for  a  number  of  years  on  the  same  land  without  manure. 

Sugar-cane  grows  in  joints  of  from  three  to  six  or  nine 
inches  in  length,  like  the  reeds  used  for  fishing-poles,  with 
a  sort  of  jiartition  between  each  two  joints  of  a  hard,  vege- 
table substance.  At  or  near  each  of  these  partitions,  on 
one  side  of  the  cane,  is  an  eye,  which  is  always  exactly  op- 
posite to  the  eye  attached  to  the  next  joint  above  or  below  ; 
so  that  the  eyes  on  a  perfect  cane  together  form  two  rows  of 
eyes  on  opposite  sides  of  the  cane.  From  each  of  those 
eyes,  when  covered  with  earth  to  the  proj^er  depth,  j^roceed 
the  sprouts  and  roots  which  constitute  in  time  the  complete 
cane.  Cane  does  not  of  necessity  require  replanting  every 
year,  the  stalks  being  cut  in  the  fall.  From  the  same  roots, 
in  the  next  year,  unless  the  root  is  injured  by  cold,  drought, 
or  excess  of  moisture,  there  springs  a  second  growth  of 
sprouts  similar  to  the  first.  This  subsequent  repeated 
growth  from  the  same  root  is  called  ratooning,  and  may 
be  repeated  from  year  to  year  for  several  years.  The 
value  of  these  succeeding  or  ratooning  crops  is  variously 
estimated,  some  asserting  that  it  continually  deteriorates 
after  the  second  year,  and  others  maintaining  that  Avith 
care  it  nuiy  be  ratooned  indefinitely.  The  common  o])in- 
ion  is  that  replanting  is  necessary  once  in  three  or  four 
years.  But  Judge  Dupont,  of  Quincy,  in  Gadsden  County, 
one  of  the  northern  counties  in  this  State,  told  me  that 
he  had   raised  cane  from  the   ratoon  six  successive  vears 


266 


FLORIDA. 


without  either  diminution  or  deterioration.  I  am  informed 
that  on  the  lands  of  Indian  River  has  been  raised  the  nine- 
teenth crop  of  cane  from  tlie  same  planting,  and  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Worth  cane  is  now  growing  which  has  not  been  re- 
planted since  the  early  Indian  wars.  The  probability  is,  that 
the  character  of  the  ratoons  and  the  extent  of  their  repeti- 
tion depend  upon  the  quality  of  the  original  seed,  the  culti-- 
vation,  and  the  fertilization  it  has  received. 


Sugar-Mill. 


While  cane  is  one  of  the  hardiest  and  most  certain  of  all 
known  crops,  and  will  thrive  under  neglect  that  would  be 
fatal  to  almost  anything  else,  yet  it  as  certainly  responds  to 


FIELD  AND  FARM  PRODUCTS.  267 

deep  and  frequent  cultivation  and  generous  fertilizing  as 
any  ci'op  that  can  be  specified,  and  its  varying  yield  of 
from  five  hundred  to  five  thousand  pounds  to  the  acre  bears 
unmistakable  testimony  to  the  degree  of  care  bestowed 
upon  it.  Good  cultivation,  indeed,  will  accomplish  won- 
ders with  the  cane  ;  and  though  only  the  rudest  processes 
of  manufacture  are  as  yet  employed  in  Florida — the  home- 
made wooden  cylinders  are  the  usual  type  of  mill — the  re- 
sults obtained  are  sometimes  fabulous.  It  is  known  that 
one  small  planter  near  Picolata,  during  the  past  year,  with 
no  help  except  that  of  his  own  little  boy,  made  from  two 
acres  of  land  forty  barrels  of  sugar  and  five  hundred  gal- 
lons of  sirup  ;  and  I  have  already  told  of  the  planter  on 
Indian  River  who,  with  the  assistance  of  one  negro  man, 
netted  sixteen  hundred  dollars  for  five  acres.  When  the  at- 
tention of  capitalists  shall  have  been  drawn  to  the  oppor- 
tunity, and  improved  processes  of  manufacture  introduced, 
there  can  hardly  be  a  doubt  that  the  production  of  sugar  Avill 
be  the  leading  industry  of  the  State. 

Cotton. — Generally  speaking,  cotton  is  a  safer  crop  in 
Florida  than  anywhere  else  ;  but  it  is  subject  to  some  risks 
from  drought,  rain,  cold,  and  caterpillars,  and  other  crops 
which  require  less  attention  and  are  less  dependent  upon 
negro  labor  are  superseding  it.  Sea-island  or  long  cotton  is 
raised  mostly  from  the  Suwanee  liiver  to  the  ocean,  and 
south  of  latitude  30°.  The  average  product  per  acre  is  from 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  pounds,  though  it 
often  exceeds  double  that.  This  species  of  cotton  is  only 
raised  on  the  sea-islands  bordering  South  Carolina,  Georgia, 
and  in  Florida,  the  latter  State  raising  over  lialf  the  total 
crop.  Short  cotton  is  grown  M^est  of  the  Suwanee  to  the 
western  and  northern  boundaries  of  the  State  ;  it  will  av- 
erage from  two  to  five  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre.  In 
grade,  Florida  cotton  rates  with  the  best. 

CoKX. — This  great  food-staple  is  grown  in  all  portions 


268  FLORIDA. 

of  Florida,  and  the  produce  here  as  elsewhere  varies  accord- 
ing to  fertility  of  soil  and  cultivation.  Ordinary  pine-land 
will  produce,  say,  ten  bushels  ;  good  hammock-land,  twenty 
to  twenty-five  bushels.  Governor  Drew,  in  1878,  on  com- 
mon pine-land,  which  had  been  cultivated  only  six  years, 
raised  one  hundi'ed  and  thirty  bushels  to  the  acre.  Of 
course,  the  land  was  thoroughly  prepared,  well  manured, 
and  well  cultivated.  Corn  here  is  planted  from  February 
to  April,  plowed  at  intervals,  laid  by  in  June  and  July  ; 
blades  stripped  for  fodder,  and  stalks  with  ears  left  in  field 
to  be  harvested  at  leisure.  It  may  be  cribbed  in  field  in 
the  shuck,  suffering  no  damage  from  weather,  or  housed  in 
corn-crib  near  the  dwelling  ;  shucked  and  shelled  if  for 
sale  or  food.  AVhen  fed  to  stock,  it  is  fed  in  shuck.  One 
person  with  one  mule  can  easily  cultivate  from  thirty  to 
forty  acres,  and,  as  the  time  from  planting  to  final  plowing 
is  only  from  four  to  five  months,  it  leaves  ample  time  to 
cultivate  another  crop  of  peas  or  sweet-potatoes,  with  same 
labor  on  same  land.  The  corn  usually  raised  is  the  white 
variety,  largely  used  in  meal  and  hominy  for  food,  especial- 
ly at  the  South.  The  Xorthern  farmer,  who  has  been  used  to 
see  forty  to  sixty  bushels  ordinarily  raised  on  the  old  home 
stead,  should,  in  comparing  the  relative  production  South 
and  North,  take  into  consideration  cheapness  of  land,  num- 
ber of  acres  which  can  be  cultivated,  time  taken  to  produce 
crop,  expense  of  gathering,  saving,  housing,  and  also  value, 
transportation,  and  its  quality.  White  is  best  for  food. 
All  things  considered,  corn  is  one  of  the  most  useful  and 
profitable  crops  to  raise  in  Florida. 

AVheat,  Rye,  and  Oats. — In  the  northern  and  north- 
western section  of  the  State  wheat  is  grown  to  some  extent, 
but  it  is  not  generally  raised  as  a  regular  crop.  Sown  eai-ly 
in  the  fall,  rye  and  oats  do  well,  affording  a  good  winter 
pasturage.  They  mature  in  the  early  spring,  and  are  not 
thrashed,  being  cured  and  fed  to  stock  in  the  straw. 


FIELD  AM)  FARM  PRODUCTS.  269 

Rice. — There  are  thousands  of  acres  in  every  section  of 
the  State  that  are  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  production  of 
rice,  but  it  has  not  been  cultivated  as  yet  to  any  extent, 
except  for  domestic  use.  The  cultivation  is  as  simple  as 
that  of  any  cereal,  and  twenty-five  to  seventy-five  bushels 
of  rough  rice  to  the  acre  is  a  fair  yield.  The  idea  that  rice 
can  only  be  successfully  grown  on  low  lands  that  can  be 
overflowed  at  certain  seasons  has  proved  to  be  mistaken. 
What  is  known  as  "upland"  rice  can  be  grown  on  any 
faii-ly  good  and  well-irrigated  soil ;  and  the  success  with 
which  this  has  been  cultivated  in  Florida  seems  to  indicate 
that  in  future,  when  rice-cleaning  machinery  has  been  in- 
troduced, this  will  be*  one  of  the  great  staples  of  the  State. 
Maturing  earlier  than  in  other  States,  new  Florida  rice  has 
a  proportionate  advantage. 

Sweet-Potatoes. — This  article  of  food  is  as  indispen- 
sable in  all  Southern  households  as  rice  is  to  the  Chinese, 
macaroni  to  the  Italian,  or  the  Irish  potato  to  the  Irish- 
man. White  or  black,  no  family  is  so  poor  but  it  has  a 
potato-patch.  It  yields  all  the  way  from  one  to  four  hun- 
dred bushels  to  the  acre,  according  to  soil,  cultivation,  and 
season  ;  is  grown  from  root,  drawer,  and  slips  ;  is  planted 
from  June  to  August,  and  matures  from  July  to  Xovember. 
It  is  of  easy  cultivation,  and  may  be  dug  and  safely  banked 
in  field  an  1  yard,  or  housed. 

Irish  Potatoes.  —  The  common  Irish  potato  grows 
fairly  well  in  all  parts  of  Florida,  but  docs  best  in  the 
northern  and  middle  sections.  The  yield  is  not  so  large  as 
in  the  North,  but  Avill  average  from  one  to  two  hundred 
bushels  per  acre,  and  in  choice  locations  along  the  St.  John's 
and  in  North  Florida  the  product  is  sometimes  upward  of 
four  hundred  bushels  per  acre. 

Tobacco. — Tobacco  will  grow  anywhere  in  Florida.  A 
superior  quality  of  Cuba  tobacco,  from  imported  seed,  is 
mostly  grown  in  Gadsden  and  adjoining  counties,  and  fully 


270  FLORIDA. 

equals  the  best  imported.  Before  the  war  it  was  extensive- 
ly and  profitably  cultivated,  and  mostly  sold  to  Germany, 
agents  visiting  the  State  to  purchase.  It  requires  careful 
attention,  will  yield  from  five  to  seven  hundred  pounds  to 
the  acre,  and  sells  for  from  twenty  to  thirty  cents  a  pound. 
Latterly  there  is  an  increasing  home  and  State  demand  by 
cigar-manufacturers,  and  the  area  of  cultivation  is  extend- 
ing. 

Peanuts, — The  peanuts  grown  in  Florida  rank  with  the 
best  in  quantity  of  production  and  also  in  quality.  They 
are  largely  used  on  the  farm  as  food  for  swine,  and  are 
remarkably  fattening.  Almost  any  soil  is  suitable  for  the 
crop,  the  cultivation  is  simple  and  inexpensive,  and  the 
yield  is  liberal. 

Melons. — "  The  Northern  man,"  says  the  writer  of  the 
"Bureau  of  Immigration"  pamphlet,  "who  has  only  seen 
the  prize  melon,  pumpkin,  squash,  and  other  fruits  of  simi- 
lar kind,  is  astounded  at  the  size  of  Florida  growth.  It  is 
no  rare  thing  to  see  watermelons  as  large  as  a  nail-keg, 
weighing  seventy  pounds,  muskmelons  twenty  to  thirty 
pounds,  and  pumpkins  and  squashes  will  often  weigh  one 
hundred  pounds.  A  watermelon  which  does  not  weigh,  at 
the  least,  tAventy-five  pounds,  is  considered  hardly  salable  ; 
thirty  to  thirty-five  pounds  is  about  the  average  of  the  wa- 
termelon brought  to  market.  Those  raised  are  of  the  best- 
known  varieties,  and  here  the  flavor  seems  more  pleasant, 
and  the  flesh  more  crisp  and  solid,  than  elsewhere.  The 
raising  of  them  is  not  a  matter  of  much  care  ;  they  are 
mostly  found  in  the  corn-patch,  where  they  grow  unseen 
and  uncared  for.  Except  where  raised  for  shipment  Xorth, 
in  recent  years,  they  are  grown  by  truckmen,  who  ship  by 
the  car-load  North  and  West,  the  season  for  sending  gen- 
erally commencing  the  last  of  May  and  continuing  until 
August.  Muskmelons  also  are  of  lai'ge  size,  and  delicious 
cantaloupes  are  raised  easily  ;  indeed,  vines  of  all  kinds 


FIELD  AXD  FARM  PRODUCTS.  271 

succeed  well,  the  long,  warm  season  favoring  rapid 
growth." 

Jute  and  Ramie. — All  the  fibrous  plants  grown  in 
warm  latitudes  do  well  in  Florida,  and  most  of  them  are 
indigenous.  At  one  time  Sisal  hemp  was  extensively  grown, 
but  the  Indian  war  laid  waste  the  country  where  it  was 
planted,  and  the  cultivation  has  not  been  resumed.  Recent- 
ly, the  culture  of  jute  and  ramie  has  begun  to  attract  at- 
tention ;  and,  now  that  machinery  for  preparing  the  fiber 
has  been  invented,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  both  crops 
are  of  the  highest  commercial  importance.  It  is  estimated 
that  to  move  our  crops  of  cotton,  Avheat,  and  grain  requires 
an  exjienditure  of  about  twenty-five  million  dollars  annually 
for  bags  and  bagging  ;  and  ramie  and  jute  yield  fibers  equal 
to  the  best  brought  from  the  East  Indies.  For  the  cultiva- 
tion of  them  Florida  seems  especially  well  adapted,  and 
both  grow  like  weeds.  The  seed  of  jute  should  be  sown  in 
March  or  April,  and  it  may  be  cut  in  June,  July,  or  Au- 
gust ;  it  is  estimated  that  the  yield  is  thirty-five  hundred 
pounds  per  acre,  and  the  crop  is  sure  and  cultivation  easy. 
The  prepared  fiber  is  used  to  make  bagging,  gunny,  coarse 
cloth,  mattings,  cheap  carpets,  and  burlaps.  The  ends  of 
the  stems  are  used  for  making  paper,  as  are  the  old  sacks 
and  bags.  The  stems  may  be  used  for  garden  fences  and 
coarse  baskets,  and  they  make  good  charcoal  for  gunpow- 
der. 

Ramie  is  a  permanent  crop  ;  once  planted,  it  reproduces 
itself  indefinitely.  It  is  first  produced,  not  from  seeds,  but 
from  small  shoots  or  roots,  and  about  three  thousand  roots 
(costing  twenty  to  twenty-five  dollars  per  thousand)  are 
required  to  plant  an  acre.  The  crops  may  be  gathered  at 
anv  season,  and  four  crops  may  l)e  obtained  from  the  same 
land  each  year,  avei'aging  five  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre 
for  e:\eh  crop.  The  crude  product  is  worth  twenty  to 
twenty-live  cents  i)er  pound  ;  prepared  properly  by  uuichin- 


272  FLORIDA. 

ery,  it  is  nearly  as  valuable  as  raw  silk.  These  are  the 
crops  for  North  Florida. 

Cassava,  Arrow-Root,  etc. — The  cassava,  from  whicli 
starch  and  tajiioca  are  made,  does  astonishingly  well  in 
Florida,  and  attains  great  size.  The  Hon.  John  G.  Sin- 
clair, of  New  Hampshire,  has  erected  a  cassava  starch-mill 
at  Interlaken,  in  Orange  County,  and  by  experiment  on  his 
own  place  he  has  shown  that  from  four  to  six  hundred 
bushels  to  the  acre  can  be  raised  on  high  pine-land  with 
little  fertilizing.  The  starch  yielded  by  it  is  excellent  in 
quality,  and  finds  a  ready  sale  to  Northern  manufacturers. 
Here,  probably,  is  the  germ  of  a  great  industry  ;  for  the 
cassava  can  be  grown  right  in  the  orange-grove  without 
damaging  the  trees.  Florida  arrow-root  grades  in  quality 
and  price  with  the  best  Bermuda,  and  is  easily  cultivated. 
Comptie,  the  bread-root  of  the  Indians,  grows  without  any 
cultivation. 

Timber  axd  Lumber. — Of  all  the  States  Florida  has 
the  largest  area  of  original  growth  of  timber.  Excluding 
land  in  cultivation,  the  area  covered  by  lakes,  rivers,  savan- 
nas, etc.,  there  are  probably  nearly,  if  not  quite,  thirty  mill- 
ion acres  of  land  covered  with  timber,  and  of  this  the  yellow 
pine  is  fully  three  quarters.  The  level  and  rolling  lands 
are  mostly  covered  with  the  yellow  and  pitch  pine,  which 
attains  a  great  size  in  girth  and  length.  The  lower  lands 
near  rivers,  lakes,  and  swamps  abound  in  valuable  timber, 
of  which  live-oak,  other  species  of  oak,  hickory,  ash,  birch, 
cedar,  magnolia,  sweet-bay,  gum,  and  cypress  constitute  a 
great  proportion.  The  red  cedar  is  particularly  adapted  for 
lead-pencils,  and  is  largely  exported  to  Europe  for  the  best 
manufactures,  as  also  North  and  East.  The  magnolia  and 
bay  are  fine  woods  for  ornamental  furniture  ;  the  cypress  is 
valuable  for  shingles,  sash,  doors,  blinds,  and  inside  finish, 
railroad-ties,  etc.  The  yellow  and  pitch  pines  have  a  world- 
wide reputation  as  being  the  best  for  any  and  all  uses  where 


FIELD  AND  FARM  PRODUCTS. 


273 


274  FLORIDA. 

strength,  elasticity,  and  durability  are  desired,  and  are  now 
being  largely  used  in  ornamental  and  expensive  structures. 
Finished  up  in  its  natural  grain  for  inside  work,  floors, 
frames,  pillars,  arches,  and  roofs,  it  presents  that  substan- 
tial as  well  as  rich  finish  not  attained  with  other  material. 
While  there  are  many  mills  on  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf  sides, 
and  a  few  on  the  railroad,  which  manufacture  pine  lumber, 
as  yet  the  consumption  is  small,  and  future  supply  is  as- 
sured for  years.  Recently  some  cedar  mills  have  been  built 
which  prepare  the  wood  of  size  for  pencils.  Most  of  the 
cedar,  however,  is  shipped  in  the  log,  roughly  hewed.  Some 
oak  and  hickory  is  shipped  in  rough-hewed  sticks,  but  as 
yet  not  much  use  is  made  of  the  hard  woods.  Lumber  of 
fair  quality  sells  for  from  live  to  fifteen  dollars  per  thou- 
sand feet  at  the  mill. 

VEGETABLE-GARDENixci. — In  Other  portious  of  the  book 
I  have  already  cited  a  number  of  instances  of  the  extraor- 
dinary success  attained  in  vegetable-gardening,  and  Avill 
therefore  content  myself  here  with  a  few  general  state- 
ments. In  Middle  and  South  Florida  fresh  vegetables  may 
be  had  during  each  and  every  month  of  the  year,  and  there 
is  no  portion  of  the  United  States  where  the  ordinary  gar- 
den-vegetables produce  so  abundantly  or  attain  such  mar- 
velous size.  Recently,  the  raising  of  early  vegetables  for 
the  Northern  markets  has  attained  the  dimensions  of  a  lead- 
ing industry — rivaling  in  magnitude  and  profitableness  the 
production  of  tropical  fruits.  Tomatoes,  cucumbers,  green 
peas,  egg-plants,  strawberries,  and  the  like,  can  readily  be 
placed  upon  Northern  tables  at  a  season  when  such  vegeta- 
bles have  hardly  begun  to  be  planted  in  the  New  England 
and  Middle  States  ;  and  the  price  obtained  for  them  at 
such  times  affords  an  almost  incredible  profit.  Indeed, 
comparing  results  for  a  series  of  years,  it  is  probable  that 
the  vegetable-gardener  will  be  able  to  show  returns  sur- 
passing those  of  even  the  most  successful  orange-growers  ; 


FIELD  AKD  FARM  PRODUCTS.  275 

and  of  coui'se  the  results  are  secured  very  much  sooner,  and 
with  less  original  outlay. 

At  pi'esent  the  most  successful  vegetable-gardening  is 
done  along  the  line  of  the  Transit  Railroad  and  on  the 
lower  St.  John's,  near  Jacksonville  ;  but  all  portions  of  the 
State  are  well  adapted  for  it,  and  South  Florida  has  a  lit- 
tle the  advantage  in  the  matter  of  earliness  of  season  and 
freedom  from  frost.  Wherever  transportation  facilities  are 
secured,  there  "  gardening  for  pi'ofit  "  can  be  undertaken 
with  confidence  ;  and  as  most  vegetables  can  be  raised  in  a 
young  orange-grove  without  injury  to  the  trees — Avith  ben- 
efit, if  properly  attended  to — the  development  of  the  indus- 
try will  probably  be  enormous  in  the  future  when  the  North 
has  come  to  rely  upon  Florida  for  its  early  vegetables,  and 
when  railway  and  steamer  lines  have  prepared  themselves 
for  the  expeditious  performance  of  the  business. 

When  and  what  to  plant. — The  following  valuable 
suggestions  on  this  head  are  copied  verhatim  from  the 
official  pamphlet  prepared  for  and  published  by  the  State 
Bureau  of  Immigration  : 

"Xo  precise  instructions  would  be  strictly  applicable 
for  all  parts  of  Florida  ;  we  give  briefly  what  may  gener- 
ally be  safely  adopted  for  Florida  say  at  and  north  of  lati- 
tude 29°  ;  south  of  29°  a  year's  experience  and  information 
will  safely  guide.  One  thing  is  favorable  :  the  period  of 
planting  any  special  crops  covers  weeks  and  months,  so  that 
failure  from  exceptional  circumstances  need  not  occur. 

"In  Jonuar}/  \)\viwt  Irish  potatoes,  peas,  beets,  turnips, 
cabbages,  and  all  hardy  or  semi-hardy  vegetables  ;  make 
hot-beds  for  pushing  the  more  tender  plants,  such  as  mel- 
ons, tomatoes,  okra,  egg-])]ants,  etc.;  set  out  fruit  and  other 
trees,  and  shrubbery. 

'■^  J'y>ru<iry. — Keep  planting  for  a  succession,  same  as  in 
January  ;  in  addition,  ]>lant  vines  of  all  kinds,  slirubbery, 
and  fruit-trees  of  all  kinds,  esi)ecially  of  the  citrus  family, 
snap-beans,  corn  ;  bed  sweet-potatoes  for  draws  and  slii)S. 
Oats  may  also  be  still  sown,  as  tliey  are  in  j)revious  months. 


276  FLORIDA. 

"  March. — Com,  oats,  and  planting  of  February  may  be 
continued  ;  transplant  tomatoes,  egg-plants,  melons,  beans, 
and  vines  of  all  kinds  •  mulberries  and  blackberries  are  now 
rij^ening. 

"  April. — Plant  as  in  March,  except  Irish  potatoes,  kohl- 
rabi, turnips  ;  continue  to  transplant  potatoes,  okra,  egg- 
plants ;  sow  millet,  corn,  cow-peas,  for  fodder  ;  plant  the 
butter-bean,  lady-peas  ;  dig  Irish  potatoes.  Onions,  beets, 
and  usual  early  vegetables  should  be  plenty  for  table. 

'■'•May. — Plant  sweet-potatoes  for  draws  in  beds;  con- 
tinue planting  corn  for  table  ;  snap-beans,  jjeas,  and  cucum- 
bers ought  to  be  well  forward  for  use  ;  continue  planting 
okra,  egg-plants,  pepper,  and  butter-beans. 

^^  June. — The  heavy  planting  of  sweet-potatoes  and  cow- 
peas  is  now  in  order  ;  Irish  potatoes,  tomatoes,  and  a  great 
variety  of  table  vegetables  are  now  ready,  as  also  plums, 
early  peaches,  and  grapes. 

"  July. — Sweet-potatoes  and  cow-peas  are  safe  to  plant, 
the  rainy  season  being  favorable  ;  grapes,  peaches,  and  figs 
are  in  full  season.  Orange-trees  may  be  set  out  if  the  sea- 
son is  wet. 

''"August. — Finish  up  planting  sweet-potatoes  and  cow- 
peas  ;  sow  cabbage,  cauliflower,  turnips  for  fall  planting  ; 
plant  kohl-rabi  and  ruta-bagas  ;  transplant  orange-trees  and 
bud  ;  last  of  month  plant  a  few  Irish  potatoes  and  beans. 

''■September. — Now  is  the  time  to  commence  for  the 
true  winter  garden,  the  garden  which  is  commenced  in  the 
North  in  April  and  May.  Plant  the  whole  range  of  vege- 
tables except  sweet-potatoes  ;  set  out  asparagus,  onion-sets, 
and  strawberry-plants. 

"  October. — Plant  same  as  last  month  ;  put  in  garden 
peas  ;  set  out  cabbage-plants  ;  dig  sweet-jjotatoes  ;  sow 
oats,  rye,  etc. 

"November. — A  good  month  for  garden  ;  continue  to 
plant  and  transplant,  same  as  for  October  ;  sow  oats,  bar- 
ley, and  rye  for  winter  pasturage  or  crops  ;  dig  sweet-pota- 
toes ;  house  or  bank  them  ;  make  sugar  and  sirup. 

"December. — Clear  up  generally  ;  fence,  ditch,  manure, 
and  sow  and  plant  hardy  vegetables  ;  plant,  set  out  orange- 
trees,  fruit-trees,  and  shrubbery  ;  keep  a  sharp  lookout 
for  an  occasional  frost  ;  a  slight  protection  will  prevent 
injury. 


FIELD  AND  FARM  FEODUCTS.  277 

"It  will  be  seen  from  the  above  that  there  is  no  month 
in  the  year  but  what  fresh  and  growing  vegetables  can  be 
had  for  sale  and  domestic  use.  This  latter  is  a  large  item 
jn  expense  of  living.  The  soil  is  so  easily  worked,  so  easily 
cultivated,  that  most  of  garden-work  can  be  performed  by 
even  delicate  ladies,  and  young  children  of  both  sexes. 
Indeed,  most  Florida  gardens  are  so  made — no  frozen  clods 
to  break  or  rocks  to  remove.  A  garden  once  put  in  con- 
dition, properly  managed,  will  produce  abundantly  and 
constantly.  The  rapid  growth  assures  large  and  tender 
vegetables,  early  and  luscious  fruit.  A  single  season  will 
afford  strawberries  from  the  setting  out,  ripe  figs  from  two- 
year-old  cuttings,  grapes  the  second  year,  peaches  the  sec- 
ond and  third  years,  oranges  from  the  bud  in  three  to  live 
years.  At  a  little  cost,  a  little  care,  one  can  literally  sit 
under  his  own  vine  and  fig-tree,  and  enjoy  fresh-plucked 
fruit  the  whole  year." 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

LIVE-STOCK. 

The  first  sight  of  a  pure  in-and-in-bred  Florida  hog  or 
cow  is  not  calculated  to  imj^art  to  the  visitor  from  north- 
em  climes,  especially  if  he  be  from  the  stock-regions,  a  very 
favorable  impression  of  Florida  as  a  stock-raising  State. 
The  hog,  the  genuine  "  cracker "  hazel-splitter,  is  a  lean, 
lank,  wiry,  quick-motioned  beast — a  deer  in  hog  shape.  It 
is  a  slander  on  the  portentously  fat  porkers  of  Illinois  to 
call  the  Florida  specimen  a  hog  at  all.  From  the  snout  to 
the  tail  he  is  all  of  a  size,  and  the  head  is  one  third  of  the 
total  length,  the  long  and  thin  body  being  placed  on  no- 
ticeably long  and  thin  legs.  And  how  he  can  run,  or  root  ! 
The  toui'ist  always  enjoys  a  hearty  laugh  when  told  "  Those 
are  hogs,"  and  innumerable  are  the  puns  and  jokes  at  their 
expense.  The  well-to-do  Xorthern  or  Western  farmer  visit- 
ing here  is  very  sure  to  view  them  with  downright  con- 
tempt, and  to  form  a  very  decided  opinion  about  the  fitness, 
or  unfitness — mostly  the  latter — of  Florida  as  a  stock  State. 

But  such  a  hastily  formed  conclusion  would  be  a  great 
mistake.  Florida  is  a  first-class  State  for  live-stock,  and 
no  one  should  feel  any  confidence  in  an  opinion  based  on  the 
specimens  of  wild,  uncared-for  stock  found  roaming  about 
the  woods. 

It  should  be  said,  moreover,  that  the  Florida  hog,  in 
spite  of  his  looks,  has  many  good  points  which  deserve 
recognition.  In  the  first  place,  his  meat  is  always  tender 
and  good  ;  and  his  lean  hams  are  delicious,  either  dried. 


LIVE-STOCK.  279 

smoked,  or  salted.  And  it  must  be  considered  that  tlie 
native  hogs  are  descended  from  a  common,  Spanish  scrub- 
breed  brought  here  centuries  ago  among  the  droves  landed 
here  for  the  use  of  the  soldiers  of  De  Soto  ;  that  they 
ai'e  never  penned,  carefully  attended  to,  or  well  fed.  In 
fact,  no  care  whatever  is  taken  of  them  by  their  owners, 
but  they  roam  about,  feeding  themselves,  Avhich  makes  them 
wild  and  lean.  An  owner  having,  probably,  as  many  as 
two  hundred  hogs,  rarely  sees  them,  but  hunts  them  up  from 
time  to  time,  and  shoots  one  for  table-food.  If  he  wishes 
to  sell  a  number  for  market,  he  hunts  them  up,  drives  them 
into  a  pen,  and  so  disposes  of  them  "  in  a  lumji." 

llogs  thrive  excellently  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  espe- 
cially in  the  northern  tier  of  counties  ;  indeed,  better  hogs 
can  not  be  found  in  the  United  States  than  those  raised  in 
Northern  Florida.  I  have  seen  as  fine,  large,  fat  hogs  there 
as  ever  Avere  raised  out  West,  especially  among  the  farmers 
in  Leon,  Gadsden,  Madison,  and  Jefferson  Counties.  But  all 
counties  are  equally  good.  And  those  farmers — they  are 
few,  however,  as  yet — who  have  imported  fine-blooded,  im- 
proved stock  can  always  show  as  creditable  porkers  as  can 
be  raised  anywhere.  It  is  said,  too,  that  no  disease  has 
ever  appeared  among  swine  in  Florida.  They  are,  in  all 
respects,  a  very  profitable  property,  involving  little  care  or 
expense,  and  always  sure  of  finding  a  good  market.  There 
is  probably  no  portion  of  the  United  States  in  which  the 
food  that  hogs  require  can  be  obtained  with  less  expense, 
or  raised  with  less  labor,  than  in  Florida. 

In  regard  to  sheep,  some  of  the  largest  and  best  flocks 
in  the  country  are  found  on  the  farms  in  the  hilly,  well- 
watered,  and  grassy  sections  of  Xorthern  Florida.  'J'licv  do 
best  in  that  part  of  the  State,  it  being  too  warm  in  the 
southern  counties  to  make  it  desirable  or  humane  to  try  to 
raise  them  there.  Jackson  County  is  ])reeminent  for  sheep- 
raising,  but,  in  any  of  the  twenty-three  line,  healthy  coun- 


280 


FLORIDA. 


Floeida  Pivk-Bakcens. 


LIVE-STOCK.  281 

ties  that  compose  Xorthern  Florida,  they  do  splendidly. 
Everything  is  in  their  favor — climate,  food,  water,  soil,  and 
markets.  The  northern  part  of  Florida,  it  should  be  borne 
in  mind,  is  not  a  tropical  fruit  region,  but  for  stock-raising 
of  the  easiest,  most  profitable  kind,  it  can  not  be  excelled 
by  any  section  of  the  United  States. 

Cattle-raising  has  long  been  one  of  the  principal  and 
most  profitable  of  all  the  many  resources  of  Florida,  and 
strange  as  it  may  appear,  it  is  most  extensively  carried  on 
in  the  extreme  southern  portion  of  the  State.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  Northern  Florida  is  unexcelled  for  cattle-i-aising, 
although  at  present,  and  for  many  years  past,  it  has  been 
most  extensive  in  the  southei*n  part,  on  the  Gulf.  Punta 
Rassa,  at  the  extreme  southern  end  of  Charlotte  Harbor,  is 
the  third  port  in  the  United  States  for  cattle-shipments  ; 
and  the  vast  savannas,  or  prairies,  in  that  region,  are  grazed 
by  thousands  of  heads.  Cattle-herding  is  about  the  easiest 
occupation  in  the  State,  but  it  takes  capital  to  start  in  it, 
and  it  requires  time  to  develop  it.  As  to  the  grade  of  cat- 
tle, it  is  the  same  as  with  the  hogs — the  native  breeds  are 
small  and  extremely  unpromising  in  aj^pearancc  ;  but,  as 
in  the  case  of  hogs,  this  is  all  for  lack  of  care  and  breeding, 
and  where  high-grade,  blooded  cattle  are  introduced,  and 
are  attended  to  with  anything  like  the  attention  given  by 
Northern  stockmen,  they  do  just  as  well  as  anywhere,  and 
involve  far  less  expense  and  labor. 

It  is  often  remarked  as  strange  by  the  visitor  to  Florida, 
and  is  undoubtedly  true,  that  in  a  State  where  cattle  abound 
and  may  be  kept  almost  for  nothing,  such  a  thing  as  fresh 
milk  is  almost  unprocurable.  In  the  remotest  districts, 
canned  milk  brought  from  the  North  is  constantly  used  ; 
and  in  a  herd  of  cattle  numbering  hundreds  there  is  not  a 
single  milch-cow.  This,  however,  is  due  to  the  "  custom 
of  the  country,"  and  not  to  any  dithculty  that  is  encoun- 
tered in  keeping  good  milch-cows  in  Florida.    There  as  else- 


282  FLORIDA. 

where,  of  course,  they  require  attention,  and  can  not  be  left 
to  gather  all  their  food  in  the  woods  and  swamps,  as  is  done 
with  ordinary  stock-cattle  ;  but  it  has  been  proved  in  in- 
numerable instances  that  cows  properly  fed  and  properly 
looked  after  will  give  milk  as  good  in  quality  and  as  abun- 
dant in  quantity  as  similar  cows  will  give  anywhere.  This, 
however,  is  true  only  of  cows  that  have  become  acclimated, 
and  those  of  the  choicer  Northern  and  foreign  breeds  are 
not  easily  acclimated.  The  best  and  surest  milch-cow  is 
what  is  known  as  the  Georgia  cow — one  brought  from 
the  neighboring  State  of  Georgia  ;  and  next  to  these  are 
the  native  cows  that  have  been  separated  from  the  ordi- 
nary cattle  while  heifers,  and  treated  as  animals  from 
Avhom  milk  is  desired  should  be  treated  everywhere.  I 
am  inclined  to  think  that  there  is  nothing  to  which  Flor- 
ida farmers  could  more  profitably  give  their  attention  than 
to  the  production  of  a  good  breed  of  milk-giving  cows 
adapted  to  the  peculiar  local  conditions. 

Horses,  when  kept  properly  stabled  out  of  the  sun  and 
dews,  and  fed  and  groomed  as  any  good  horse  should  be, 
thrive  as  well  in  Florida  as  in  any  other  portion  of  the 
South.  The  principal  drawback  in  keeping  a  horse  in 
good  condition,  especially  in  the  towns  and  cities  of  Mid- 
dle and  South  Florida,  is  the  sandy  roads.  Out  in  the 
little-traveled  country  and  in  the  woods,  the  roads  are  well 
enough,  and  a  horse  can  ti'ot  along  as  well  as  anywhere  ; 
but  in  the  towns,  where  the  roads  are  deeply  cut  up,  it  is 
very  hard  upon  all  draught-animals,  and  great  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  overload  or  overwork  them.  In  particular, 
a  good  horse  should  not  be  intrusted  to  the  care  of  a  col- 
ored hostler  or  driver,  if  you  care  much  for  the  horse.  A 
mule  is  best  adapted  to  a  negi'o  teamster ;  it  being  among 
the  predestinate  things  of  nature  that  negroes  and  mules 
should  come  together. 

Sandy  roads  are  the  worst  feature  of  life  in  Florida, 


LIVE-STOCK.  283 

and  will  be  for  many  years,  for  there  is  no  method  of 
effectually  improving  them  excej)t  at  great  expense.  The 
roads  in  Northern  Florida  are  free  of  sand,  except  in  a  very 
few  localities,  and  are  as  good  as  any  country  roads  in  the 
whole  country,  and  in  some  localities  in  the  southern  coim- 
ties  there  are  also  good  stretches  of  roads  ;  but  in  the  lat- 
ter section  generally  they  are  sandy  to  a  degree  that  it  is 
more  easy  to  resent  than  to  describe.  This  prevents  much 
carriage-riding  or  walking  on  the  roads,  and  is  the  princi- 
pal cause  of  the  very  little  visiting  among  neighbors  in  the 
scattered  settlements,  where  it  is  quite  noticeable  that  the 
women  seldom  exchange  visits,  or  indulge  in  "  calls,"  as  is 
the  very  popular  custom  among  their  Northern  sisters. 

But  in  those  counties  where  the  roads  are  sandiest  are 
found  the  most  numerous  lakes  ;  indeed,  the  whole  region  is 
a  netvvork  of  lakes,  and  the  settlers'  homes  are  generally 
bordering  on  or  adjacent  to  a  lake.  These  lake-side  dwell- 
ers are  sure  to  have  a  row-boat,  and  in  such  cases  visits  are 
more  frequently  interchanged  among  the  accessible  neigh- 
bors. Saddles,  row-boats,  steamers,  and  railroads  will  al- 
ways be  the  principal  methods  of  travel  and  intercom- 
munication. Carriages  for  pleasure,  or  wagons  for  labor, 
will  never  be  so  common,  or  so  necessary,  as  elsewhere. 

In  the  case  of  horses,  as  in  that  of  cows,  the  Northern- 
raised  animals,  especially  the  fancy  breeds,  do  not  do  well 
in  Florida,  particularly  if  any  work  is  required  of  them. 
The  Western  horses  would  probably  be  found  better  adapt- 
ed to  the"  climate  and  other  conditions,  but  they  have  not 
yet  been  introduced  in  any  considerable  numbers.  The 
native  horse  is  a  small,  bony,  pot-bellied  animal,  very 
shabby-looking  and  destitute  of  "style,"  but  cajtable  of 
more  work  on  a  scantier  supply  of  provender  than  any 
other  creature  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  except  a  mule. 
The  demand  for  horses  in  Florida  at  present  much  exceeds 
tlie  supply,  and  the  prices  are  coiise(piently  disproportion- 


284  FLORIDA. 

ately  high,  and  this  is  another  department  of  stock-raising 
to  which  farmers  should  give  more  attention.  Specimens 
that  I  have  seen  show  that  under  pi'oper  care  and  treatment 
the  native  variety  is  capable  of  being  made  a  very  2)resent- 
able  as  well  as  serviceable  animal. 

Barn-yard  fowls  of  every  description  do  remarkably  well 
in  all  sections  of  the  State.  Eggs  and  chickens  are  a  cer- 
tainty at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  the  only  thing  from 
which  they  need  protection  is  the  pilfering  fingers  of  the 
negroes.  As  a  flock  of  fowls  is  very  useful  in  keeping  the 
insects  out  of  an  orange-grove,  they  may  be  allowed  con- 
siderable space  for  roaming,  and  under  these  conditions 
would  require  but  very  little  additional  feeding.  More- 
over, it  pays  to  raise  them,  as  the  demand  in  the  vicinity 
of  towns  or  settlements  nearly  always  exceeds  the  supply, 
and  the  prices  asked  and  obtained  for  them  are  surprisingly 
high. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

FUR,    FIX,    AXD    FEATHER. 

Opportunities  for  the  sportsman  are  wonderfully  abun- 
dant in  all  sections  of  Florida — the  variety  of  game  and 
fish  being  undoubtedly  greater  than  in  any  other  region  of 
equal  size  in  the  world. 

In  all  parts  of  the  State  are  large  clear-water  springs, 
ponds,  lakes,  bayous,  and  rivers.  These  fresh-water  bodies 
are  literally  alive  with  fish,  principally  black  bass,  pike, 
grunts,  sheep's-head,  all  varieties  of  perch,  bream,  etc. 
Along  the  entire  salt  -  water  coast,  with  all  the  harbors, 
bays,  sounds,  and  inlets,  the  fishing  is  simply  superb,  in- 
cluding mackerel,  mullet,  salt-water  trout,  sea-bass,  whiting, 
red  snapper,  pompano,  cavalli — in  fact,  the  variety  is  innu- 
merable. Wherever  you  find  water  in  all  Florida,  fresh  or 
salt,  you  will  find  inexhaustible  opportunity  for  the  exer- 
cise of  the  angler's  art. 

All  along  the  coasts,  too,  especially  the  lower  Atlantic 
and  Gulf  coasts,  green  turtles  are  very  plentiful.  Some  of 
them  are  monsters  in  size,  and  turtle-hunting  (also  hunting 
for  their  eggs)  is  very  attractive  sport.  Often  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  to  three  hundred  eggs  are  found  in  a  nest  ; 
they  are  delicious  eating,  like  the  turtle  itself,  which  is  so 
greatly  relished  by  the  epicure  everywhere.  Oysters  in 
countless  millions  line  the  shores,  and  are  everywhere 
cheap  and  excellent. 

They  speak  of  trout-fishing  here,  but  it  is  a  mistake. 
The  trout,  the  dainty,  golden,  speckled  trout  of  Xorthern 


286  FLORIDA. 

waters,  does  not  exist  in  Florida.  What  is  here  called  the 
trout  is  in  reality  the  Oswego  black  bass,  which,  as  is  well 
known,  is  a  nice,  gamj',  delicious  fish,  but  not  the  dainty 
aristocrat  of  Northern  streams. 

Everybody  fishes,  or  at  least  can  fish,  in  Florida,  and  I 
have  enjoyed  many  pleasant  trips  with  jolly  fishing-parties 
in  various  parts  of  the  State.  At  Cedar  Keys  I  once  saw 
three  housewives  grouped  on  the  long  railroad-pier  there, 
each  ensconced  under  an  umbrella,  and  all  comfortably  fish- 
ing in  the  most  neighborly,  sociable,  matter-of-fact  manner. 
It  was  a  very  common  event  with  them  ;  they  were  merely 
out  marketing  for  their  dinner — a  large,  free  market,  very 
convenient  indeed.  One  of  them  showed  mc  two  fine, 
plump,  six  or  seven  pounders,  her  catch  in  about  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

Fishing  is  always  made  additionally  interesting  in  Flor- 
ida by  the  great  variety  of  strange  and  curious  creatures 
that  are  constantly  being  captured,  and  are  rarely  seen  else- 
where. 

Of  feathered  game  the  variety  and  quantity  are  almost 
as  great  as  of  the  fish.  It  is  practically  unlimited  every- 
where in  the  State.  At  the  place  where  I  resided  in  the 
summer  of  1880 — and  there  were  ten  men  there  in  the  j^arty 
— I  have  seen  several  coveys  of  quail  all  at  one  time  feed- 
ing about  in  the  yard,  or  among  the  orange-trees,  often  ap- 
proaching within  ten  feet  of  the  veranda  where  we  were 
seated,  and  glancing  up  at  us  without  a  shade  of  fear  or 
timidity.  Everywhere  they  feed  about  in  the  barn-yards 
among  the  common  fowls  (except,  of  course,  right  in  the 
towns  and  villages)  ;  and  in  a  ride  of  a  inile  I  have  fre- 
quently seen  a  dozen  coveys  scudding  across  the  roadway 
but  a  few  steps  distant. 

No  other  bird  is  quite  so  abundant,  perhaps,  as  the  quail  ; 
but,  according  to  Hallock's  "  Camp-Life  in  Florida,"  the 
game-birds  include  the  wild-turkey,  the  Ca.iada  goose,  the 


FUR,   FIN,   AND  lEATIIER.  287 

mallard,  the  canvas-back,  the  teal,  the  black  duck,  the  scaup- 
duck,  the  red-head  duck,  the  wood-duck,  the  ruddy  duck, 
the  raft-duck,  the  green  wingtail,  the  blue  wingtail,  snipe, 
golden  plover,  piping  plover,  black- billed  plover,  woodcock, 
yellow-legs,  woodpeckei's,  god  wits,  curlew,  black-necked 
stilt,  larks,  rails,  herons,  cranes,  kingfishers,  and  ibis.  There 
are  also  eagles,  vultm-es,  hawks  of  several  vai-ieties,  crows, 
owls,  coots,  loons,  pelicans,  and  paroc|uets.  There  is  hardly 
a  section  of  the  State  in  which  some  of  these  species  are 
not  abundant,  and  there  is  no  season  of  the  year  when  the 
sportsman  need  seek  far  for  his  prey. 

Of  furred  game  many  kinds  are  found.  Among  the  larger 
game  there  are  the  bear,  the  panther,  the  lynx,  the  gray 
wolf,  the  gray  fox,  and  the  wild-cat.  Deer  (of  a  very  small 
size)  are  found  nearly  everywhere,  but  are  most  abundant 
in  the  southern  and  western  counties,  and  especially  in  the 
larger  islands.  Hunting  them  is  probably  the  best  sj)ort 
that  Florida  affords. 

Early  one  morning  in  Brooksville,  while  I  was  in  one  of 
the  little  groceries  there,  an  old  "cracker,"  one  of  the 
genuine  native  sort,  came  riding  up.  He  was  an  interest- 
ing specimen  ;  his  appearance,  costume,  and  language  were 
all  "cracker,"  and  his  horse,  equipments,  and  gun  were 
curiosities.  He  dryly  remarked,  and  his  language  was 
plain,  that  he  "were  gwine  arter  a  de-eer  fur  dinner,  fur 
the  old  'ooman  say  her  war  outer  meat."  About  two  hours 
later  I  was  interested  to  see  him  again  ride  up  with  a  fine, 
fat,  two-year-old  buck  thrown  across  his  nag.  He  had 
"found  his  meat,"  and  the  body  was  yet  warm.  Evidently 
deer  arc  plentifid  thereabout,  and  he  knew  where  to  find 
them. 

Bears  and  panthers  are  somewhat  scarce.     Their  haunts 

are  mostly  on  the  islands  and  in  the  southern  counties  ;  but 

they  are  "  seared  up  "  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  usually  right 

where  and  when  least  expected,  of  course.     As  game  they 

13 


288 


FLORIDA. 


FUR,   FIN,   AND  FEATHER.  289 

are  rather  difficult  to  find,  except  for  a  party  specially  hunt- 
ing them,  and  prepared  to  go  to  the  remoter  sections  of  the 
State,  where  settlers  arc  few. 

Alligator-shooting  is  too  easy  to  be  mentioned  among 
the  resources  of  the  genuine  sportsman.  It  may  be  enjoyed 
anywhere,  especially  on  the  upper  St.  John's  and  in  the 
swamps  ;  but,  like  bufFalo-shooting  out  West,  it  is  so  tame, 
after  the  first  excitement  of  seeing  this  peculiar  game,  that 
it  becomes  rather  tiresome.  The  killing  of  them  has  now 
become  a  regular  occupation,  the  skins  being  an  article  of 
commerce  and  exported  in  large  quantities.  The  smaller 
game  is  extremely  plentiful  everywhere,  and  includes  rac- 
coons, opossums,  squirrels  (the  Southern  fox-squirrel  and 
the  gray  squirrel),  and  rabbits. 

Of  Florida,  much  more  accurately  than  of  most  other 
places  to  which  the  terra  is  applied,  it  may  be  said  that  it 
is  "a  paradise  for  sportsmen."  "In  the  immediate  vicinity 
even  of  such  centers  of  population  as  Jacksonville,  St.  Au- 
gustine, and  Tallahassee,"  says  a  trustworthy  writer,  "there 
is  excellent  sport  for  either  the  angler  or  the  huntsman,  and 
it  is  only  necessary  to  penetrate  a  short  distance  into  the 
country  in  any  direction  in  order  to  find  game  incredible  in 
quantity  and  variety.  One  great  advantage  which  Florida 
offers  to  sportsmen  is  that,  owing  to  the  extreme  mildness 
of  its  climate,  Avhat  is  called  '  roughing  it '  is  a  much  less 
trying  process  than  perhaps  anywhere  else  in  America.  By 
taking  only  the  most  obvious  precautions  as  to  clothing, 
etc.,  even  invalids  may  camp  out  for  weeks  with  substan- 
tially no  risk  ;  and,  so  much  of  the  locomotion  being  by 
water,  there  is  comparatively  little  likelihood  of  exhausting 
fatigue.  Some  of  the  most  ardent  of  every  season's  sports- 
men belong  to  the  class  of  'consumptives'  who,  before 
reaching  Florida,  were  afraid  to  venture  out  of  the  house 
after  sunset." 


CHAPTER  XX. 

INSECTS    AND    REPTILES. 

Because  Florida  is  a  semi-tropical  region,  it  is  quite 
generally  tlie  opinion  of  people  in  other  regions  that  it  is 
the  natural  home  of  all  kinds  and  varieties  of  hideous,  poi- 
sonous, troublesome  reptiles,  insects,  and  "  bugs,"  that  creep, 
crawl,  or  fly.  Such  pests  are  always  supposed  to  dwell  in 
warm  climes,  and  the  name  of  India,  Mexico,  or  any  tropi- 
cal region,  at  once  suggests  tarantulas,  boa-constrictors, 
vampires,  and  fleas  ;  and  doubtless  the  great  majority  of 
people  entertain  a  very  similar  opinion  of  Florida,  and  per- 
haps firmly  believe  that  on  this  account  human  life  in  mid- 
summer is  all  but  intolerable  there.  Such  an  opinion  is 
another  of  the  many  erroneous  ones  about  Florida  that  are 
current  among  those  who  have  not  seen  for  themselves.  It 
is  a  wrong  belief,  and  will  require  but  a  short  chapter  to 
refute  it. 

Alligators  exist  in  all  portions  of  the  State  Avhcre  there 
are  any  marshy,  wet,  swampy  jungles  or  lakes  ;  but  they 
are  not  a  pest,  they  are  quite  cowardly,  and  the  largest  of 
them  will  run  from  a  child  of  six  years,  unless  actually  cor- 
nered, or  cut  off  from  their  retreat  in  the  nearest  water. 
The  excejition,  of  an  alligator  attacking  any  one,  is  as  rare 
as  the  runaways  of  an  old  family  horse.  It  may  happen, 
but  as  a  matter  of  fact  very  rarely  does  happen.  Instead 
of  a  danger,  they  are  merely  an  object  of  curiosity  to  all 
residents  and  visitors. 

These  great  reptiles  propagate  their  species  from  eggs, 


INSECTS  AND  REPTILES.  291 

which  the  female  deposits  in  large  numbers  in  the  muddy 
recesses  of  the  shores  of  their  haunts.  She  digs  out  a  s})a- 
cious  hole,  and  depositing  the  eggs — several  hundreds  in 
number — at  one  time,  proceeds  to  cover  them,  and  when 
she  has  erected  a  stout  earthwork  over  them  her  maternal 
duties  are  entirely  finished  with  that  brood.  After  a 
lengthy  period  (the  precise  time  is  variously  given  by  dif- 
ferent authorities)  the  little  'gators  come  forth,  and,  with 
unerring  instinct,  make  a  direct  line,  over  all  obstacles,  to 
the  water  ;  while,  with  equally  unerring  but  cannibalistic 
instinct,  the  big  alligators  that  may  happen  to  be  in  the 
vicinity  at  once  proceed  to  devour  the  little  ones. 

Of  snakes  there  are  but  ten  or  eleven  species  in  Florida, 
and  only  live  of  these  are  poisonous  :  the  rattlesnake,  the 
cotton-mouthed  moccasin,  the  water-moccasin,  and  two 
kinds  of  adders.  The  king-snake,  the  bull  or  gopher  snake, 
the  black  snake,  the  coach-whip,  and  the  common  ground- 
snake,  are  the  harmless  species.  Of  these  last  mentioned, 
two  kinds — the  black  and  the  king  snakes — are  the  friends 
of  humankind,  for  they  wage  relentless  and  usually  vic- 
torious warfare  upon  all  others  of  their  loathsome  species. 

But,  after  all,  there  are  very  few  snakes  in  Florida,  and 
they  are  rarely  found  save  in  dense  undergrowth  or  in  sel- 
dom-visited regions.  I  have  traveled  over  many  portions 
of  the  State,  and  been  much  in  the  woods  and  underbrush 
in  South  Florida,  and  I  never  saw  a  deadly  snake  ;  in  fact, 
I  saw  but  one  coach-whip  and  five  or  six  black  snakes. 
Kor  have  I  met  anybody  that  has  seen  more  than  a  very 
few  deadly  snakes.  To  see  two  or  three  in  a  residence  of 
half  a  dozen  years  seems  to  be  about  the  average.  Their 
scarcity  is  ])rincipally  due  to  the  numerous  hogs,  deer,  owls, 
hawks,  coons,  and  skunks,  all  of  which  are  dca<lly  enemies 
to  them,  and  to  the  extensive  fires  that  annually  burn  over 
the  underbrush  of  large  tracts  of  land. 

There  is  also  a  s])ecies  of  centiped  that  is  poisonous,  its 


292  FLOEIDA. 

sting  being  about  as  virulent  as  that  of  a  mad  hornet  ;  but 
these  pests  are  scarce,  and  are  not  considered  a  danger. 
The  same  is  the  case  with  a  small  species  of  scoi'pion,  and 
a  similar  species  known  as  a  grampus. 

Flies  are  very  few,  noticeably  so  in  the  case  of  the  com- 
mon house-fly  ;  there  are  several  varieties  of  horse-flics 
that  are  not  especially  troublesome  to  the  horses,  but  are 
remarkable  for  their  great  size — often  an  inch  and  three 
eighths  long.  There  is  also  a  fly  of  about  the  same  large 
size,  mostly  found  around  horses,  and  commonly  known  as 
the  "  horse-guard,"  for  it  never  lights  on  horses,  buzzes  in 
their  faces,  or  Avorries  them  in  the  least,  but  gobbles  in  any 
and  all  flies  that  light  on  the  horse,  devouring  the  little 
flies,  but  only  eating  the  heads  ofl:  of  the  larger  ones. 

Mosqiiitoes  are  as  elsewhere  a  great  nuisance,  Avhero 
they  exist.  Their  season  is  in  the  months  of  A})ril,  May, 
June,  and  July  ;  and  they  are  very  few  in  other  months. 
In  many  localities  none  are  to  be  found  at  any  season  ;  and 
in  the  greater  portions  of  those  localities  whei*e  they  exist, 
they  do  not  come  in  "  clouds  "  or  "  swarms."  It  is  only  in 
some  peculiarly  low  and  swampy  location  that  they  annoy 
one  as  they  do  in  New  Jersey  and  Michigan. 

The  little  black  gnat  and  the  tiny  sand-fly  are  the 
most  villainous  torments.  These,  indeed,  are  perfect  pests, 
but  they  are  only  in  "  full  bloom "  from  August  to  early 
November.  A  thin  veil  worn  like  a  cap  over  the  head  en- 
tirely protects  you  from  all  annoyance  from  them,  for  they 
do  not  bite  or  sting,  but  are  simply  possessed  Avith  a  raven- 
ous desire  to  explore  one's  eyes  and  ears.  They  are  not 
general  to  the  State,  but  are  found  in  a  fcAV  sections  only, 
and  are  not  at  all  poisonous. 

If  you  w\alk  through  the  Avoods,  cspeciaHy  ajuong  old 
pine  logs,  there  is  a  red-bug,  a  minute  insect,  Avhich  fre- 
quently attacks  your  ankles  and  bites,  but  you  are  only 
made  aware  of  it  by  the  pimple  or  scar  ;  it  does  not  poison 


IXSECTS  AND  REPTILES.  293 

tlie  flesh.  You  can  escape  theh*  bother  by  each  morning 
or  evening  bathing  the  ankles  Avith  ammonia  or  camphor, 
or  by  rubbing  them  with  vaseline — that  is,  if  you  must  be 
out  in  the  woods.  Also,  in  the  autumn,  if  you  are  out  in 
the  swamps,  there  is  a  wood-tick  that  assaults  you,  very 
much  like  the  red-bug,  but  its  effect  and  the  remedy  are 
precisely  the  same  as  with  the  red-bug. 

Fleas  are  undoubtedly  a  great  pest,  but  as  their  cause  is 
well  understood  it  is  not  impossible  to  keep  reasonably  free 
of  them.  They  are  due  to  the  innumerable  dogs,  hogs, 
and  other  live-stock  that  are  allowed  free  range  every- 
where ;  and  if  these  are  kept  at  a  respectful  distance  and 
rigidly  excluded  from  the  house,  fleas  also  will  be  apt  to  be 
conspicuous  by  their  absence. 

Around  dwellings  there  is  a  species  of  cockroach,  of 
mammoth  size,  which  sometimes  causes  a  good  deal  of  an- 
noyance. They  are  not  very  numerous,  however,  are  very 
shy  and  clumsy,  and  may  easily  be  got  rid  of  by  the  means 
that  are  found  efiicient  elsewhere. 

The  foregoing  list  includes,  I  believe,  all  the  insect  pests 
and  annoyances  that  are  liable  to  trouble  one  in  Florida. 
Of  these,  very  few  invade  the  house  ;  that  is,  if  it  is  a 
house  as  understood  in  the  Northern  States — a  neat,  clean, 
wholesome  abode  ;  but  if  you  can  be  brought  to  inhabit  a 
flimsily  constructed,  dirty  "  cracker  "  cabin,  open  for  every- 
thing to  enter,  they  will  very  probably  visit  you,  and  may 
even  be  induced  to  take  up  a  permanent  residence. 

As  a  final  word  I  would  say  that  if  one  lives  civilized, 
keeps  clean  as  to  house  and  person,  and  uses  mosquito-bars 
and  nettings  for  the  beds  and  screens  for  windows  and 
doors,  just  as  is  done  at  the  Xorth,  the  insects  are  no  more 
troublesome  here  than  there. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

OPPORTUNITIES    FOR    LABOR    AXD    CAPITAL. 

The  first  and  greatest  need  of  Florida  is  population.  It 
is  beyond  all  other  regions  of  America  the  most  favored 
for  poor  people  with  little  capital  but  of  industrious  disposi- 
tion, able  and  willing  to  work.  Capital  and  wealth  are  al- 
ways welcome  everywhere,  but  it  is  an  established  fact  that, 
wherever  labor  leads,  capital  always  quickly  follows.  Look 
at  the  history  of  all  our  Western  States.  It  was  always 
the  case  that  the  poor  pioneer  emigrant  with  a  rifle,  and  an 
axe  or  spade,  hewed  the  first  pathway.  It  was  the  "  wheel- 
barrow "  emigrant  that  opened  up  the  great  mining  regions 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  then  came  the  small  storekeepers, 
then  the  wholesale  dealers,  then  the  bankers — the  real  capi- 
talists— railroads,  and  telegraphs  :  and  thus  were  States 
founded  and  solid  prosperity  established. 

By  all  means  let  the  poor  people  come  to  Florida,  for 
nowhere  can  they  live  so  cheaply,  and  so  quickly  "  earn  a 
living  "  ;  while,  if  they  are  at  all  industrious  and  possessed 
of  common  good  judgment,  they  can  soon  accumulate  a 
jMCompetency.  If  they  can  bring  a  little  money,  sufficient  to 
obtain  a  few  acres  of  land  at  cheapest  rates  or  to  take  up  a 
homestead  on  the  public  lands,  to  build  a  cheap  cottage, 
and  to  subsist  for  six  months,  so  much  the  better  ;  they  are 
then  sure  to  succeed  and  gradually  better  their  condition. 
But  even  if  empty-handed,  let  them  come,  for  employment 
can  surely  be  found  to  preserve  life  and  give  the  new- 
comer time  to  look  about  for  a  better  chance. 


OPPORTUNITIES  FOR  LABOR  AND   CAPITAL.    295 

Study  the  advantages  of  Florida,  with  its  many  and 
rapidly  increasing  lines  of  water  and  rail  commnnieations 
to  all  parts  of  the  country,  cheap  rates,  and  rapid  transit  ; 
then  turn  to  those  offered  to  the  poor  man  in  the  far-off, 
bleak,  inhospitable  West — of  vast,  treeless,  waterless,  fruit- 
less plains,  or  comfortless  mountains  ;  where  railroads  are 
the  only  means  of  transit,  and  they  are  in  nearly  all  cases 
without  competition,  have  high  rates,  and,  being  generally 
monopolists  of  the  soil  of  their  section,  hold  the  settler  in 
an  iron  grasp  ;  where  Nature  offers  nothing  but  a  place  to 
breathe  in,  and  only  by  hardest  labor  and  through  constant 
struggle  can  life  be  sustained. 

An  important  consideration  for  the  settler  is  that  Flor- 
ida is  emphatically  a  region  of  health,  and  of  the  activities 
which  come  from  health.  There  is  no  such  thing  as  "  ener- 
vating effects,"  etc.,  on  the  settler  in  this  region.  It  is  not 
far  enough  south.  I  find  everywhere,  among  the  people 
here  from  colder  climes,  the  same  activity  of  brain  and 
body,  the  same  effort  to  improve,  as  among  the  people  of 
any  other  locality. 

Look  about  Florida— see  the  new  towns  springing  up 
everywhere  ;  the  railroads,  steamboat  lines,  mills,  factories, 
stores,  new  residences,  new  appliances  for  cultivation  of  the 
soil,  machinery,  implements,  new  schemes  for  raising,  in- 
creasing, marketing,  shipping,  and  obtaining  profits  from 
all  soil  products  :  arc  not  these  conclusive  evidences  of  the 
vigor  and  activity  of  the  new-comers  ? 

For,  with  very  few  exceptions,  it  is  the  Northern  people, 
so  rapidly  moving  in  here,  that  are  developing  the  true  re- 
sources and  capabilities  of  the  State,  and  who  are  engaged  in 
nil  tlie  enterprises  of  private  or  public  benefit.  Every wlure 
they  are  planning  new  improvements,  draining  swamps, 
"locating"  town-sites,  laying  out  streets  and  lots,  clearing 
large  tracts  of  fertile  soil,  setting  out  orange-groves,  experi- 
menting with  new  crops,  opening  stores,  founding  churches 


296  FLORIDA. 

and  schools,  erecting  saw-mills,  cassava-mills,  and  fruit-pre- 
serving establishments,  building  new  railroads,  putting  new 
steamboats  on  all  these  waters,  hunting  out  new  "  springs," 
building  new  hotels — in  fact,  civilizing  this  entire  region. 
Everywhere  the  labor,  the  enterprise,  and  the  money  of  the 
Northern-born  settler  are  appai'ent. 

The  old  slaveholding  element,  with  its  aristocratic  and 
exclusive  ideas,  is  very  small  in  Florida,  and  that  small 
number  is  only  found  in  a  few  places  in  the  northern  coun- 
ties. Moreover,  the  visitor  or  settler  will  lind  these  j^eople 
(I  mean  the  better  class  of  the  old-time  slaveholding  plant- 
ers) at  heart  very  good,  hospitable,  and  kindly-disposed 
people.  Such  has  always  been  my  experience,  and  I  have 
met  many  of  them. 

I  believe  none  of  these  people  desire  a  return  to  slavery 
times  and  customs  ;  and,  leaving  out  the  bitterness  natural 
to  humankind  when  defeated,  I  believe  they  honestly  wish 
to  see  Northern  people  settle  here. 

The  "cracker"  element,  the  "poor  white  trash,"  are  too 
few  in  number  and  too  insignificant  in  influence  for  special 
attention.  They  are,  as  a  class,  mei'ely  white  barbarians, 
rapidly  dwindling  away  ;  and,  as  new  settlers  move  in,  the 
"  cracker  "  moves  off. 

'  Capitalists  can  also  find  in  Florida  a  broad  field  for  the 
investment  of  money.  Banks  are  greatly  needed  in  sev- 
eral of  the  new  towns.  The  exchange  on  the  sales  of  the 
great  crops  and  the  vast  amount  of  goods  being  brought 
in  every  week,  not  by  seasons  but  continuously,  and  all 
such  commercial  transactions,  make  the  need  of  banking- 
houses  very  great.  The  arrivals  of  steamers  at  Sanford 
and  such  principal  points  on  the  St.  John's  average  about 
thirty  each  week,  and  their  cargoes  each  Avay,  and  passen- 
ger-lists, are  indubitable  evidence  of  healthy  commerce 
and  increasing  prosperity,  where  money  is  plentiful  and 
well  employed.    The  State  laws  regarding  security  for  cash 


OPPORTUNITIES  FOR  LABOR  AXD   CAPITAL.    29T 

advanced  are  of  the  most  favorable  kind,  giving  tlie  money- 
lender safe  and  certain  aid  without  entangling  delays.  Xo 
State  has  more  favorable  laws. 

Another  great  need  is  railroads  in  all  parts  of  the  State. 
If  Avcll  located,  they  would  pay  handsome  returns  upon 
their  cost.  Railroads  can  be  built  here  with  much  less  ex- 
pense than  anywhere  else  in  the  United  States  ;  there  being 
fewer  "  cuts  and  tills,"  the  soil  being  easier  to  work,  right 
of  way  freely  obtained,  and  the  ties  very  cheap.  The  stump- 
age  of  the  best  varieties  of  timber  on  the  lands  that  the 
State  so  liberally  gives  would,  if  judiciously  utilized,  pay 
very  handsomely. 

Paper-mills,  to  use  up  the  vast  quantities  of  scrub  pal- 
metto-tops, cassava-mills,  sugar-mills,  canning  establish- 
ments for  vegetables,  oysters,  turtles,  etc.,  preserving-fac- 
tories for  fruits,  orange-wine  vaults,  mattress-factories  to 
nse  up  the  abundant  Spanish  mosses  (a  sj^lendid  article  for 
mattresses),  tanneries  for  the  immense  number  of  hides 
produced  in  the  v.hole  State,  turpentine  and  tar  stills,  ma- 
chine-shops for  manufacturing  furniture,  etc.,  of  the  i)al- 
metto,  cedar,  cypress,  and  hard  woods  of  this  region — these 
are  but  a  few  of  the  needs  of  Florida,  and  of  the  opportuni- 
ties afforded  to  capitalists.  Orange-culture  is  in  a  peculiar 
sense  an  occupation  for  men  with  capital  at  command  ;  and 
few  things  would  pay  better  than  to  bring  a  number  of 
choicely  situated  orange-groves  to  the  bearing  period,  and 
then  sell  them  at  tlie  prices  which  such  groves  readily 
bring. 

Even  if  one  does  not  care  to  risk  money  in  the  onlinary 
business  enterprises,  there  are  ways  of  making  it  very  ])n)- 
ductive.  It  can  be  loaned  on  perfectly  good  security  at 
from  ten  to  eigliteen.  per  cent.  jK'r  annum. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A   WOED    OF    FRIENDLY    ADVICE    TO    NEW-COMERS. 

One  of  the  greatest  sources  of  perplexity  to  the  new- 
comer is  the  vast  amount  of  contradictory  advice  sure  to  be 
tendered  him.  If  he  asks  a  settler  for  an  opinion  about  a 
certain  piece  of  land,  or  how  to  select  orange-trees,  or  when 
to  plant  or  how  to  plant,  or  about  vegetables,  or  about 
transportation,  he  is  certain  to  receive  a  lengthy  argument 
completely  exhaustive  of  the  subject  in  question,  and  every 
detail  proved  by  the  settler  from  his  personal  experience 
and  observation.  This,  of  course,  is  encouraging,  and  the 
new-comer  goes  on  his  way,  rejoicing  that  he  now  knows 
all  about  the  matter,  and  prepared  to  follow  the  mstructions 
as  given.  Unfortunately,  he  happens  to  mention  the  sub- 
ject to  another  settler,  a  discussion  ensues,  and  to  the  ncAv- 
comer's  profound  astonishment  he  heai's  all  the  statements 
made  by  his  previous  informant  combated,  overthrown, 
demolished,  and  their  absurdity  demonstrated.  Congratu- 
lating himself  upon  his  lucky  escape  from  the  bad  venture 
he  was  about  to  make,  he  proceeds  to  follow  the  advice  of 
his  last  authority,  when  he  meets  a  third,  and  the  same  re- 
sult ensues.  The  advice  of  the  second  informant  is  proved 
all  wrong,  and  an  entirely  new  theory  is  positively  asserted 
to  be  the  right  and  only  true  one. 

So  it  goes  :  and,  if  the  new-comer  should  consult  a  dozen 
different  people,  he  would  probably  receive  from  each  an 
explanation  totally  different  and  distinct,  and  each  declared 
by  the  relator  to  be  the  result  of  personal  experience.     It 


A    WORD   OF  FRIENDLY  ADVICE.  299 

is  wonderful,  it  is  utterly  confusing  ;  and  it  very  frequently 
results  in  causing  the  new-comer  to  enter  into  a  bad  bar- 
gain, to  waste  much  money  and  labor,  and  ultimately  to 
give  up  in  disgust,  sacrificing  his  property  for  a  song,  and 
going  away,  bitter  against  Florida. 

But  the  truth  is,  the  fault  was  largely  with  himself.  He 
should  not  depend  solely  iipon  advice,  but  should  use  his 
own  judgment  ;  and  to  form  a  sound  judgment  he  should 
spend  a  small  amount  of  extra  money,  and  travel  about  to 
different  localities,  carefully  observing  and  studying  for 
himself.  Hasty  purchases  arc  very  apt  to  be  regretted 
in  Florida  as  well  as  elsewhere  ;  and  it  is  always  money 
well  spent  that  is  spent  in  looking  about  for  the  right 
locality,  the  right  soil,  the  right  class  of  products,  the 
right  opportunity  for  transportation,  and  the  requisite 
advantages  as  to  health,  markets,  neighbors,  schools,  and 
the  like. 

The  experiment  of  a  man,  especially  with  a  family, 
transferring  all  his  interests  and  hopes  from  a  temperate  to 
a  serai-tropical  region,  is  necessai'ily  a  trying  one.  The  cli- 
mate, soils,  products,  seasons  of  labor  and  rest,  of  planting 
and  harvests,  are  totally  different.  Indeed,  nothing  is  the 
same  ;  even  the  new-comer  and  his  family  change  in  diet, 
hours  of  rest  and  labor,  even  in  the  constituents  of  their 
blood.  Yet  the  change  is  one  that  involves  no  insuperable 
difficulties,  provided  due  care  be  exercised  in  the  matter  of 
diet,  exercise,  labor,  and  habits  of  life.  The  abundance  of 
certain  fruits  that  are  regarded  as  luxuries  elsewhere  is 
very  apt  to  betray  new-comers  into  over-indulgence  in  the 
matter  of  food,  and  this,  of  course,  should  be  guarded 
against.  The  water-supply,  too,  sliould  be  carefully  scruti- 
nized, an<l  any  indications  of  iin])urity  sliouM  cause  its  use 
to  be  discontinued.  Moreover,  until  he  becomes  thoroughly 
acclimated,  the  new-comer  should  avoid  as  much  as  possible 
long-continued  exposure  to  the  summer  sun,  or  to  the  air  of 


300  FLORIDA. 

damp  localities.  In  all  these  respects  he  would  do  well  to 
observe  and  follow  the  customs  of  the  more  intelligent 
"  natives." 

A  fruitful  cause  of  failure  among  new-comers  to  Florida 
is  their  greed  for  vast  possessions  ;  they  want  a  hundred- 
acre  grove  at  an  outlay  not  sufficient  for  ten  acres.  Re- 
member, it  costs  money,  labor,  and  tedious  time  to  produce 
an  orange-grove  ;  and  a  snug,  Avell-cared-for,  thrifty  grove  of 
five  acres,  with  say  three  hundred  trees,  all  brought  to  quick 
and  prolific  bearing,  is  a  far  surer  and  more  desirable  in- 
vestment than  one  three  or  four  times  as  large  which  can 
not  be  kept  in  an  equally  high  state  of  cultivation.  Ob- 
servation has  shown  that  a  small  grove  can  be  brought  to 
bearing  from  two  to  three  years  sooner,  and  at  much  less 
proportionate  expense  of  money  and  labor,  than  a  very 
large  one.  One  reason  of  this  is,  that  in  a  large  grove  the 
work  must  all  be  performed  by  hired  laborers,  while  in  a 
small  one  the  owner  is  quite  likely  to  do  much  of  it  himself. 
The  fertilizing,  too,  for  a  large  grove  must  all  be  purchased, 
while  on  the  small  grove  the  barn-yard  and  stables,  the 
poultry,  the  dwelling,  all  contribute — until  the  amount  to 
be  purchased  is  very  small. 

If  you  desire  to  engage  in  vegetable-gardening  (a  very 
profitable  enterprise,  if  rightly  conducted),  you  must  use 
good  judgment  :  select  good  black  or  dark-brown  ham- 
mock soil,  not  too  wet ;  shelter  it  from  the  east  wind,  if  on 
the  Atlantic  coast  ;  and  locate  close  to  some  established  line 
of  transportation.  It  will  be  much  the  wisest  policy  to  pay 
a  high  price  for  five  or  ten  acres  located  convenient  to  ship- 
ping facilities,  than  a  low  price  for  larger  acreage  too  far 
from  raai'ket. 

If  you  desire  to  engage  in  the  culture  of  purely  tropical 
fruits,  such  as  bananas,  pineaj)plos,  etc.,  there  is  but  one  es- 
sential direction  to  be  observed — it  is  to  go  south,  beyond 
the  region  of  frost-visits,  select  any  cultivated  soil,  pine  or 


A    WORD   OF  FRIEXDLY  ADVICE.  301 

hammock,  and  locate  near  some  convenient  and  established 
line  of  transportation. 

One  class  of  persons  against  whom  the  new-comer  must 
be  on  his  guard  is  the  "land-shark."  There  are  land  agents 
in  Florida  who  are  as  trustworthy  as  the  same  class  any- 
where, and  whose  advice  and  assistance  may  be  of  great  ser- 
vice to  the  settler  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  almost  every  lo- 
cality is  infested  by  one  or  more  "sharks,"  who  prey  upon 
new-comers  by  offering  them  "  the  greatest  bargain  to  be 
had  in  the  State,"  the  prices  asked  being  usually  about  twice 
as  much  as  the  property  could  actually  be  bought  for.  Usu- 
ally very  plausible  in  manners  and  talk,  these  men  are  Avell 
calculated  to  impose  upon  the  inexperienced,  but  a  little 
inquiry  among  other  parties  will  usually  suffice  to  expose 
their  true  character.  One  rule  should  be  inflexibly  adhered 
to  by  the  settler,  and  that  is,  never  to  be  persuaded  into 
"closing"  hastily  with  a  "bargain,"  and  never  to  buy  a 
piece  of  land  until  he  has  consulted  two  or  three  different 
parties  as  to  its  quality  and  price. 

As  a  general  thing,  if  he  has  exercised  due  care  in  the 
selection  of  his  land,  the  settler  need  have  no  fear  of  malaria 
or  "  fevers."  He  will  naturally  be  discouraged  by  the  sal- 
low, tallowy  look  and  listless  manner  of  many  of  the  "  na- 
tives "  ;  but  whoever,  in  any  place,  should  live  as  they  live, 
eating  such  wretched  food,  neglecting  body  and  mind, 
would  at  the  end  of  a  few  years  find  himself  in  the  same 
condition,  which  is  due  not  to  the  locality  but  to  the  mode 
of  life.  AVith  the  right  sort  of  a  house,  food  of  good  vari- 
ety and  quality  and  propcrhj  pnjxired,  cleanly  habits,  and 
healthful  exercise  for  the  mind  as  well  as  the  body,  peojile 
may  enj(^v  as  much  vigor  and  activity  in  Florida  as  any- 
where in  the  United  States. 

I  have  observed  in  all  parts  of  the  State  that  the  women 
express  less  liking  for  Florida  than  do  the  men  ;  in  fact,  in 
reply  to  the  (piestion  invariably  asked  of  all,  "  llow  do  you 


302  FLORIDA. 

like  the  State  ?  "  of  all  the  Northern-born  women  I  have 
met,  but  three  or  four  replied  in  a  hearty,  convincing  man- 
ner that  they  really  liked  it.  This  appears  somewhat 
strange,  when  we  consider  the  fact  that  the  climate,  fruits, 
flowers,  garden  dainties,  and  the  like,  such  as  Avomen  usu- 
ally ai"e  fond  of  and  delight  in,  ai*e  so  abundant  in  Florida. 
The  principal  source  of  their  objections  is  the  same  as  iu 
all  new  countries  :  women  seldom  enjoy  pioneer  life,  but 
prefer  old,  settled  communities,  churches,  schools,  finished 
dwellings,  society,  sidewalks,  and  intimate  social  intercourse. 
The  sandy  soil,  heavy  roads,  and  absence  of  sidewalks,  es2)e- 
cially  in  South  Florida  regions,  are  the  real  cause  of  the 
prev^alent  discontent  of  the  women.  Added  to  this  is  the 
general  neglect  of  new  settlers  to  provide  lawns,  grass-plots, 
flower-gardens,  poultry -yards,  etc.,  to  attract  and  divert  the 
attention  of  their  female  companions.  In  the  towns  through- 
out Northern  Florida,  whei-e  the  improvements  are  more 
general,  there  is  most  content  among  the  women  ;  and  in 
the  fcAV  homes  in  Southern  Florida  where  the  house  is  neat- 
ly constructed,  with  wide,  cool  piazzas,  lawns,  and  flower- 
gardens,  a  poultry-yard  well  stocked,  and  a  cow  (thus  pro- 
viding spring  chickens,  fresh  eggs,  fresh  milk,  and  butter, 
things  always  so  agreeable  to  the  housewife) — in  homes 
where  these  surroundings  are  found,  is  always  found  resig- 
nation if  not  contentment. 

Be  cautious,  look  about  you,  use  your  own  best  judg- 
ment, avoid  land-sharks,  begin  on  a  small  scale  at  first,  be 
scrupulously  cleanly  of  person  and  house,  provide  good  food 
and  have  it  well  prepared,  and,  though  you  are  a  "new- 
comer," you  may  enjoy  life  and  prosper  in  Florida. 


CHAPTER    XXIII, 

ROUTES    TO    AXD    THROUGH    FLORIDA. 

Jacksonville  is  the  grand  objective  point  for  all  Florida  visitors. 
It  is  the  focus  where  all  lines  of  travel  from  all  parts  of  the  North 
and  West  terminate,  and  where  all  the  local  lines  of  railroads  and 
river-boats  liave  their  begiiming  or  chief  ofHce;  where  information 
concerning  all  portions  of  the  State  can  be  obtained,  and  all  uncer- 
tain routes  to  interior  points  of  interest  decided  upon.  This  su- 
premacy is  shared  in  some  slight  degree  by  Pensacola,  but  this  city 
is  so  far  removed  from  the  Florida  sought  by  Northern  tourists,  and 
is  so  situated  geographically,  that  it  really  represents  another  and 
distant  region  of  entirely  different  attractions  and  interest.  It  is  the 
chief  Floridian  city  on  the  Gulf,  and  is  best  known  to  the  people  of 
the  adjoining  Gulf  States.  In  fact,  Pensacola  belongs,  by  all  natu- 
ral and  geographical  laws,  to  Alabama,  and  is  far  more  accessible  to 
the  people  of  that  and  neigliboring  States  than  to  those  of  Florida. 
This  difficulty,  however,  will  soon  be  remedied  by  the  expected 
early  completion  pf  the  Jacksonville,  Pensacola  and  Mobile  Rail- 
road, from  its  present  terminus  on  tlie  Chattalioochee  to  its  natural 
and  originally  proposed  terminus,  Pensacola. 

To  tlie  tourist  from  New  England  and  New  York  there  are  sev- 
eral routes  open,  all  accommodating  and  desirable. 

TO    FLOIilDA    BY    WATKH. 

(1.)  One  of  the  well-appointed  steamers  of  the  Mallory  Steam- 
ship Line  sails  from  Pier  20  East  River  at  three  o'clo;'k  p.  m.  eacli 
Friday,  visiting  Port  Royal  en  rmitc^  arriving  at  Fcrnandiiia  on  tlie 
morning  of  the  following  Tuesday,  and  connecting  at  the  wliarf 
tiiere  with  the  train  to  Jacksonville  (only  thirty-three  miles,  an 
hour's  i)leasant  ride   over  the  new  railroad).     For  invalids  and  all 


304  FLORIDA. 

who  enjoy  the  novehy  of  a  short  sea-voyage,  tliis  route  ofters  su- 
perior attractions,  licturning,  a  steamer  leaves  Jacksonville  each 
Thursday. 

(2.)  A  steamer  of  the  New  York  and  Savannah  Steamship  Line 
sails  tri-weekly  at  three  o'clock  p.  m.,  from  Pier  43  North  Eiver, 
direct  to  Savannah,  sixty  hours'  sea-trip,  connecting  there  with 
their  Florida  steamers  (small  boats)  to  Fernandina  and  Jacksonville, 
sailing  from  Savannah  daily  at  four  o'clock  p.  m.,  following  the  chan- 
nel between  the  mainland  and  islands,  popularly  known  as  the  "  Sea 
Island  Eoute,"  much  like  a  beautiful  tropical  river-journey,  arriving 
in  Fernandina  at  nine  o'clock  a.  m.  next  day. 

(3.)  The  New  York  and  Charleston  Steamship  Line.  One  of 
tlie  first-class  steamers  of  this  line  sails  semi-weekly  from  Pier  27 
North  River  for  Charleston  direct,  connecting  there  with  their  ele- 
gant Florida  line  of  "  chaimel-route  "  steamers  direct  to  Jackson- 
ville and  Palatka.     Excellent  steamers  and  rajjid  passage. 

(4.)  The  Old  Dominion  Steamship  Line.  One  of  the  large  and 
fine  steamers  of  this  line  sails  tri-weekly  from  Pier  20  North  River 
for  Portsmouth,  Virginia,  connecting  there  with  the  railways  direct 
to  Florida,  ma  the  newly  constructed  Waycross  Railroad  into  Jack- 
sonville. This  is  the  quickest  of  the  water-routes  to  Florida  from 
the  Northeastern  States  ;  but,  of  course,  only  about  half  the  journey 
is  performed  by  boat. 

PAILWAT    ROUTES   FROM   NEW    YORK   AND   THE   NORTH. 

From  New  York  and  the  numerous  points  throughout  the  East 
and  North  there  are  many  routes  over  connecting  lines  converg- 
ing at  Waycross,  Georgia.  Over  all,  the  fores,  time,  and  excellent 
accommodations  of  palace-cars,  sleeping-cars,  parlor-cars,  dining- 
room  cars,  and  quick  connections,  are  very  nearly  the  same.  Each 
offers  some  special  attraction — interesting  old  towns,  historical 
localities,  beautiful  scenery — that  must  largely  influence  the  tourist 
in  determining  a  route.  By  the  quickest  all-rail  route  the  time 
from  New  York  to  Jacksonville  is  about  forty  hours.  Railroad 
facilities  and  accommodations  from  Northern  points  to  Florida 
have  greatly  changed  within  the  past  year,  and  the  vexatious 
delays,  uncertain  connections,  slow  trains,  inattention,  and  gen- 
eral discomfort  experienced  by  the  traveler  during  recent  seasons 
are  happily  ended.     Within  a  brief  period   there  have  been  great 


ROUTES  TO  AND   THROUGH  FLORIDA.        305 

changes  in  the  entire  railway  system  of  the  Southeast.  New  and 
energetic  men  have  entered  the  field,  great  amounts  of  capital  have 
heen  invested,  all  the  old  fogy  boards  of  directors  have  been  swept 
out  of  existence,  new  managers,  superintendents,  and  executive 
officers  have  come  to  the  front,  all  infusing  a  healthy  and  beneficial 
rivalry.  New  railroads  have  been  everywhere  projected  and  begun, 
and  old  unfinished  roads  have  been  completed;  numerous  short  cut- 
offs have  been  ])lanned  and  rapidly  completed,  all  greatly  to  the 
comfort  and  benefit  of  travelers  and  freight.  Railroad  time-tables 
have  been  everywhere  overhauled  and  remodeled,  rates  of  speed 
increased,  time  of  travel  reduced,  excellent  low-priced  eating-houses 
conveniently  established,  new  and  attentive  employees  engaged, 
until  now,  and  in  coining  ssasons,  railroad  travel  in  the  South  is 
and  will  be  comparable  in  comfort  and  convenience  with  the  fa- 
mous system  of  the  West.  To  Mr.  Ilayues  and  Mr.  Cole,  the  widely 
known  railway  capitalists  and  managers,  is  Florida  largely  indebted 
for  these  benefits. 

TO   FLORIDA   FROM   THE   NOBTFIWEST. 

To  the  tourist  to  Florida  from  the  Northwest  the  fixmous  new 
Cincinnati  Southern  road  offers  elegant  and  superior  attractions, 
quick  time,  fine  scenery,  beautiful  cars,  and  every  detail  of  comfort 
and  convenience  that  skilled  management,  liberal  capital,  and  rivalry 
can  devise.  This,  and  the  Avell-known  old  established  Eufala  line, 
together  with  the  Danville  route,  offer  superior  facilities.  All  have 
palace-cars,  with  but  two  changes  from  Chicago  to  Jacksonville  (a 
daytime  change),  and  make  the  distance  in  sixty-five  to  sixty-eight 
hours.  But  these  facts  of  the  present  will  undoubtedly  be  mate- 
rially changed  for  the  better  in  the  coming  season  (1881-'82),  as  ar- 
rangements are  now  nearly  perfected  among  the  representatives  of 
the  various  connecting  roads  of  the  rival  routes,  so  that  the  pas-icn- 
ger  entering  a  palace-car  in  Chicago,  Indianapolis,  Cleveland,  De- 
troit, St.  Louis,  Louisville,  or  Nashville,  will  arrive  in  Jacksonville 
in  the  same  car;  while  the  Chicago  passenger  will  be  but  forty- 
two  hours  en  route,  instead  of  sixty-eight,  as  at  present. 

IN'    JACKSONVILLE. 

There  are  now  four  large  hotels  in  Jacksonville,  equal  to  any  in 
the  country  for  accommodations  (rates  four  to  five  dollars  per  day); 


306  FLORIDA. 

also  numerous  smaller  hotels  and  innumerable  boarding-houses, 
where  board  may  be  iiad  with  fair  accommodations  for  five  to  fifteen 
dollars  per  week. 

The  tourist  should  first  make  a  journey  down  to  tlie  mouth  of 
the  St.  John's,  on  the  regular  daily  steamer,  leaving  at  about  nine 
o'clock  A.  M.,  returning  about  six  p.  m.  It  is  a  delightful  and  inter- 
esting day-excursion.     Fare,  $1.00. 

TIP  THE  ST.  John's. 
Daily  boats,  via  the  De  Bary  Line ;  or  via  the  Pioneer  Line  Mon- 
days and  Thursdays ;  or  via  the  Independent  Line  Tuesdays  and  Fri- 
days. Each  line  steamers  leave  their  wharf  at  half  past  one  p.  m., 
reaching  Palatka  early  the  same  evening,  and  Enterprise  and  Sanforl 
about  noon  next  day,  where  excellent  hotels  are  found.  Returning, 
leave  Sanford  at  nine  o'clock  each  morning.  Fare,  $7.00;  round  trij), 
$10.00. 

THE   FAU-UP   ST.   JOHN's   AXD    IXDIAX   EITEHS. 

There  are  several  steamers  that  make  the  entire  round  trip  from 
Jacksonville  to  the  extreme  upper  waters  of  the  St.  John's.  These 
are  small,  "  crowded-up  "  sort  of  boats,  but  fairly  comfortable  with- 
al, and  decidedly  novel.  They  are  very  convenient  to  the  tourist, 
especially  hunters,  and  parties  with  ladies.  Their  dates  are  quite 
irregular,  and  must  be  learned  in  Jacksonville.  The  fare  is  about 
ten  dollars,  but  special  terms  are  easily  made,  according  to  numbers 
and  circumstances.  Another  way  is  to  go  to  Sanford,  then  take 
passage  on  the  Pioneer  Line  boats  that  leave  there  tri-weekly.  The 
time  from  Jacksonville  to  Titusville  and  Eock  Ledge  is  about 
seventy-two  hours,  although  this  time  will  undoubtedly  be  reduced 
to  about  fifty  hours,  even  forty,  by  the  new  arrangements  now  being 
perfected.  Rock  Ledge  can  be  reached  by  leaving  the  St.  John's 
boat  at  Salt  Lake,  thence  to  Titusville  by  mule-team  (as  heretofore 
described),  then  via  sail-boat;  or,  continuing  on  the  St.  John's  boat 
to  Lake  Winder,  thence  by  mule-team  eight  miles  over  to  the  Indian 
River.  Boats  may  be  chartered  at  Titusville  for  a  journey  down 
the  Indian  River  and  on  to  Lake  Worth  and  Key  Biscayne  Bay. 

TO    CRESCEXT   LAKE. 

Take  steamer  at  Palatka,  that  makes  the  round  trip  daily  to 
Crescent  Lake.     A  short,  pleasant  trip  and  low  fare. 


ROUTES  TO  AA^D   THROUGH  FLORIDA.        307 

TIP   THE   OCKIAWAIIA. 

Steamers  leave  Jacksonville  tri-weekly  for  the  Ocklawalia  at  one 
o'clock  p.  M.,  from  their  pier  in  the  rear  of  the  post-office.  These 
boats  run  to  the  extreme  head-waters  of  that  interesting  stream, 
carrying  freiglits  and  passengers  for  Leesburg,  Lakes  Harris,  Eustis, 
Griffin,  Dora,  and  surrounding  regions.  At  Leesburg  tliey  connect 
with  a  handsome  little  steamer  that  makes  the  circuit  of  all  these 
large  lakes,  stopping  at  Pendryville,  Fort  Mason,  and  Yalaha. 

Hart's  line  of  steamers  make  semi-weekly  trips  from  Palatka  up 
the  Ocklawaha  to  Silver  Springs ;  thence  the  passenger  can  be  taken 
ma  mule-teams  to  Ocala,  or  daily  via  rail  from  Jacksonville  and 
Waldo.     Time,  six  hours. 

TO   LAKES   KISSIMMEE    AXD    OKECIIOBEE    AND    THE  EYEEGLADE    EEGION. 

Take  the  steamer  to  Sanford,  thence  via  the  South  Florida  Rail- 
road to  Lake  To-ho-po-ka-la-ga,  twenty-eight  miles  below  Orlando 
(fifty  miles  from  Sanford),  where  there  is  a  new  hotel  owned  by  the 
railroad.  From  this  point  a  rude  little  steamer  makes  a  weekly 
round  trip  into  the  Everglade  region,  visiting  all  the  settlements  and 
accessible  points  of  that  far-oif  region.  The  sailing  dates  of  tlie 
steamer  are  very  uncertain,  but  about  once  a  week. 

TO    NEW    SMYRNA    AND    DATTONA,    AND    THE    HALIFAX    lUVER    REGION. 

Take  steamer  daily  to  De  Land  or  Blue  Si)rings  Landings,  on  the 
St.  John's,  thence  via  carriages  across  to  the  coast;  or  go  to  St. 
Augustine  and  thence  via  sail-boats  down,  a  day's  sail. 

TO    ALTAMONTE    AND    APOPKA. 

Steamer  to  Sanford,  thence  via  South  Florida  Railroad  to  Long- 
wood  Station,  thence  lu'a  mail-wagon  to  Altamonte,  five  miles'  ride; 
continue  on  the  cars  to  Orlando,  thence  via  team  to  Apojjka. 

TO    PENDRYVILLE    AND    THE    LAKE    EUSTIS    REGION. 

Steamer  up  the  St.  John's  to  Astor,  there  take  cars  to  Fort  Ma- 
son, on  Lake  Eustis.  Teams  and  sail-boats  and  lake-steamers  to  all 
adjacent  points. 

SUMTERVILLE,    LAKE    PAN-A-SOF-KEE,    AND    BROOKSVILLK. 

Steamers  via  Ocklawaha  River  to  Leesburg,  or  steamers  to  Astor, 
cars  to  Fort  Mason,  and  lake-steamer  to  Leesburg;  thence  via  mail- 


308  FLORIDA. 

team  to  Sumterville,  six  miles;  thence  by  mail-stage  to  Brooksville, 
twelve  hours'  ride  from  Sumterville,  mostly  through  an  uninhabited, 
rolling  (in  fact,  hilly)  pine-timbered  region. 

Lake  Pan-a-sof-kee  is  a  beautiful  large  lake,  surrounded  by  a 
vast  hammock  of  remarkably  fertile  soil;  it  is  six  miles  from  Suui- 
terville,  where  teams  can  be  hired  for  the  trip  to  the  lake.  The 
Tropical  Railroad,  now  under  construction  from  Ocala,  will  reach 
this  lake  this  season. 

OKLANDO   AND   MAITLAND. 

Steamers  daily  to  Sanford,  thence  via  South  Florida  liailroad. 
Railroad  fare,  90  cents. 

LAKE   HARNEY    HAMMOCKS. 

Pioneer  Line  steamers  from  Jacksonville  (as  mentioned  hereto- 
fore) to  Tuskawilla  Landing. 

TO    ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

Several  steamers  daily  to  Tocoi,  on  the  St.  John's  (three  hours' 
ride),  then  via  railroad  fourteen  miles  across  to  the  ancient  city. 
N.  B. — A  new  railroad  is  now  being  constructed  direct  from  Jack- 
sonville to  St.  Augustine;  distance,  about  thirty -five  miles. 

TO    OCALA   AND   SILVER   SPRINGS. 

By  railroad  to  Waldo  on  the  Transit  road,  thence  to  Ocnla  or 
Silver  Springs,  seven  hours'  ride.  Or,  by  steamer  to  Palatka;  thence 
via  railroad  to  Jamestown,  there  changing  cars  to  Ocala,  ten  hours' 
time.  Or  up  the  Ocklawaha,  via  either  line  of  steamers  on  that 
river,  to  Silver  Springs ;  thence  by  team  over  to  Ocala. 

ORANGE   LAKE. 

Proceed  to  Waldo  via  the  Transit  Railroad ;  thence  by  rail  to  the 
lake.  The  Peninsular  Railroad  (from  Waldo)  passes  near  the  shore 
of  this  famous  lake. 

TO    GAINESVILLE    AND    CEDAR   KEYS. 

Two  trains  daily  leave  Fernandina  for  Gainesville,  Waldo,  and 
all  points  along  the  Transit  Railroad  to  Cedar  Keys. 

Passenger  train  leaves  Fernandina  daily  (except  Sunday),  at 
a  quarter  past  nine  o'clock  a.  m.     Arrive  at  Baldwin  at  half  past 


ROUTES   TO  AND   THROUGH  FLORIDA.        309 

twelve,  noon,  connecting  there  with  train  from  and  to  Jackson- 
ville; arrive  at  Waldo  at  a  quarter  past  two  p.  m.  (connect  with  train 
to  and  from  Ocala ;  arrive  at  Orange  Lake  at  four  o'clock  p.  m.  ; 
Ocala,  at  six  o'clock  p.  m.).  The  Transit  train  on  from  Waldo 
arrives  at  Gainesville  at  half  past  three  p.  m.,  and  at  Cedar  Keys  at 
six  o'clock  p.  M.  Total  time  from  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Keys,  eiglit 
and  three  quarters  hours.  From  Fernandina  to  Ocala,  eight  and 
three  quarters  hours.  From  Jacksonville  to  Cedar  Keys  is  about 
seven  hours,  tia  Baldwin  Junction.  Return  trains  leave  Cedar  Keys 
daily,  except  Sunday,  at  half  past  six  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

The  Tampa  Steamship  Line.  For  Manatee  and  Tampa. — Leave 
Cedar  Keys,  Monday  and  Thursday,  at  half  past  six  p.  m.  ;  arrive 
at  Manatee,  Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  nine  a.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Tampa, 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  two  p.  m. 

For  Key  West  via  Charlotte  Harhor. — Leave  Cedar  Keys,  Mon- 
day and  Friday,  at  half  past  six  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Key  West,  Wednes- 
day and  Sunday,  at  nine  a.  m.  Landing  passengers  at  Punta  Rassa, 
connecting  with  steamer  for  all  landings  in  Charlotte  Harbor. 

]Sr.  B. — There  are  other  steamers  in  the  winter  season  that  ply 
between  Cedar  Keys,  Key  West,  and  the  "West  Indies,  notably  tlie 
splendid  steamer  Admiral ;  also  steamers  to  Havana,  Pensacola,  and 
New  Orleans.  Their  time-table  is  regulated  anew  each  season,  and 
must  be  learned  by  the  tourist  of  the  general  agent  in  Jacksonville. 
Key  West  is  also  reached  by  the  Mallory  Line  and  New  York  and 
New  Orleans  Line  steamers  weekly  from  New  York  ;  also  by  the 
Baltimore,  Havana  and  New  Orleans  steamers,  sailing  on  the  1st 
and  Loth  of  each  moutli  from  Baltimore. 

XOETH    FLORIDA. 

Two  trains  leave  Jacksonville  daily  over  the  Florida  Central  Rail- 
road—at 11.05  A.  M.  for  Baldwin,  connecting  with  Transit  Railroad 
trains  for  all  i)oints  south,  also  8.45  a.  m.  for  Lake  City  and  Live 
Oak,  there  connecting  with  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf  Railroad  for  all 
points  north,  south  and  west,  also  connecting  there  with  the  Jack- 
sonville, Pensacola  and  Mobile  Railroad  for  Ellaville,  Madison,  Mon- 
ticello  (reached  via  a  short  railroad  three  miles  from  the  main 
road),  and  Tallahassee,  Quincy,  and  Chattahoochee.  It  is  ten  hours' 
journey  from  Jacksonville  to  Tallahassee,  all,  after  reaching  Lake 
City,  passing  through  a  region  of  attractive  scenei-y  and  rich  soil. 


310  FLORIDA. 

Tourists  should  by  all  means  visit  this  region,  for  Tallahassee  and 
the  surrounding  country  is,  all  in  all,  one  of  the  most  lovely  por- 
tions of  America. 

From  Tallahassee  a  short  railroad  runs  to  St.  Mark's,  on  the 
Gulf,  there  connecting  with  the  steamer  to  Pensacola,  New  Orleans, 
and  all  Gulf  ports.  The  dates  of  this  train  are  very  uncertain,  as  it 
only  runs  when  it  is  announced  that  a  steamer  is  in  port,  usually 
about  once  a  week. 

THE   FAR-WEST   COUNTIES. 

The  towns  and  settlements  in  the  counties  west  of  the  Appa- 
lachicola  Kiver  are  only  reached  by  United  States  mail  or  private 
stage  routes.     Rates  are  moderate. 


THE  EISTD. 


De  Bary  Merchants'  Line 

STEAMERS 

FREDERICK  DE   BARY,       ROSA,  a>-d 
ANITA,  GEO.  M.  BIRD. 


CARRYIJVG  the  UNITED  STATES  MAIL 

' *   ^  I 

DAILY  BOATS  from  JAGX80NVILLE,  PALATKA, 

And  Intermediate  Points  on  ST.  JOHN'S  EIVEK, 

TO    ENTERPRISE    AND    RETURN, 

Connecting  with  ST.  AUGUSTINE,  GAINESVILLE,  and  Points  on  the  FLOKIDA 
SOUTHERN  ItAILKOAD. 

For  information,  apply  at  the  Office  of  the 

DE  BARY  MERCHANTS'  LtNE,  JACKSONVILLE. 

Appletons'  Annual  Gyclopsedia, 

AND 

REGISTER  OF  IMPORTANT  EVENTS  OF  THE  YEAR  1880. 

Eiiibrac'ni^  Political,  Civil,  Military,  and  Social  Affairs ;  Pu/>lic  Docit- 

nioits,   Biography,   Statistics,  Cominerce,  Finance,  Literature, 

Scicence,  Agriculture,  and  Alcclianical  Industry. 


New  .Skkiks,  Voi.umk  V.     (Wiioi-i':  Skriks,  \'()1,i:.mk  XX.) 
Large  8vo.      -      -     Price,  cloth,  $5.00;  sheep,  $6.00o 


The  still  extending  use  and  demand  for  tlie  Annual  Cyci.op.sdia  apiirove  the 
fitness  of  its  plan.  Few  annual  publications  in  the  world  have  as  successfully  stood 
the  ordeal  of  tinu'.  The  lar.ijest  and  most  coniprehensive  general  year  hook  printed  in 
any  country,  no  pains  are  spared  to  maku  it  complete  and  trustworthy.  Co-ordinated 
with  the  political  knowledce  Riven  in  the  Anntai,  ('vri.oi"/f;i)iA  is  as  lar^re  a  lioily  of 
authenlic  and  systematized  information  as  can  be  collected  relatini;  to  the  devclnpinc  nt 
of  the  afrriciiltnral,  industrial,  and  commercial  interests  of  tlu^  counti'v;  and  every 
important  subject  of  pubhc  comment  and  concern  is  treated  in  its  appi<)[)riate  con- 
nection. 

New  York:    D.  Al'PLKTON  &  CO.,   1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street. 


DIRECT  STEAMSHIP  LINES 


TO 


Texas,  Florida,  BassaufliCulia. 


TEXAS  LINE. 

Steamers  leave  Pier  20,  East  River,  every  Saturday,  and  scnii- 
weekly  during  the  busy  season,  for  Galveston,  Texas,  calling  at  Key 
West,  Florida.  Through  First-class  and  Emigrant  Passage  Tickets 
sold  to  all  points  in  Texas,  by  Agents  of  all  the  Transatlantic  Steamship 
Companies  in  Liverpool,  London,  Hamburg,  and  Bremen. 

Tliii  is  the  only  Line  of  Passenger  Steamers  hcfwe^n  Kcuo  York,  Kctf 
West^  Florida,  and  Texas. 

FLORIDA   LINK 

Steamers  leave  Pier  21,  East  River,  every  Friday,  at  3  p.  m.,  for 
Jacksonville  and  Femandina,  Florida,  making  close  connections 
with  all  Railroad  and  Steamboat  Lines  for  all  interior  parts. 

This  is  the  only  Steamship  Line  runninr/  to  Florida  wilhoiit  irnr.s/a: 

NASSAU,  MATANZAS,  and  HAVANA 
LINE. 

Steamers  leave  New  York,  monthly,  in  the  summer,  for  Matanzas 
and  Nassau ;  after  November  1st,  semi-monthly  ;  and  after  January 
1st,  also  send  Steamers  from  Florida  every  two  days,  continuing  to 
Havana,  and  forming  the  most  delightful  tourist  route  in  the  world. 


A  schedule  and  descriptive  pamphlet  is  furiiishsd  free  on  application. 
For  all  information  in  reference  to  any  of  the  above  routes,  apply  to 

C.  H.  MALL08Y  &  CO.,  General  Agents, 

Pier  80,  East  River,  New  York. 


M.  L.  HARNETT,  BEN.  GEORGE, 

Formerly  of  the  Marshall  House.  Late  of  the  Screven  House. 

THE    HARNETT    HOUSE, 

SAVANNAH,  GA. 

HARNETT  &  GEORGE,  Proprietors. 

Rates :  $2.00  and  $2.50  per  Day,  according  to  location  of  Room. 

This  favorite  FAMILY  HOTEL,  under  its  new  management,  is  recommended 
for  the  excellence  ol  its  Cuisine,  Home-like  Comforts,  Prompt  Attention,  and  Mod- 
erate Kates. 

A    BRAIN    AND    NERVE    FOOD. 


VITALIZED  PHOS-PHITES. 

Composed  of  the  Nerve-giving  Principle  of  the  Ox-Brain  and  Wheat- 
Germ — not  a  Laboratory  Compound,  but  Nature's  Nerve  Tonic. 

It  restores  tlie  energy  lost  by  nervousness  or  indigestion ;  re- 
lieves lassitude,  erratic  pains,  and  neuralgia  ;  refreshes  the  nerves 
tired  l)y  ivori-j-,  excitement,  or  excessive  sensitiveness ;  strengthens 
a  failing  memory,  and  gives  rene^ved  vigor  in  all  diseases  of  ner- 
vous exhaustion  or  debility.  It  is  the  only  preventive  of  con- 
sumption. 

It  gives  vitality  to  the  insufficient  bodily  or  mental  growth 
of  children,  feeds  the  brain  and  nerves,  prevents  fretfulness, 
and  gives  quiet  rest  and  sleep.  It  gives  a  better  disposition 
to  infants  and  children,  as  it  promotes  good  health  to  brain 
and  body. 

Physicians  have  prescribed  500,000  packages. 

F.  CROSBY,  m\  &  663  SixJh  Aven-e,  New  York. 
For  sale  by  DiMggists  or  mail,  $1.  LONDON,  137  A  STnANix 


HARRISON  PHOEBUS,  Proprietor. 

Situated  one  hundred  yards  from  Fort  Monroe,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Hampton  Roads,  being  tlie  first  point  of  land 
lying;  westward  between  the  Capes  of  Mrginia,  about  fifteen  miles  north 
of  Xorfolk  and  Portsmouth  ;  all  passenger  steamers  running  to  and  from 
those  cities  touch  at  the  pier,  going  and  returning,  with  the  U.  S.  Mails, 
landing  only  twenty  rods  from  the  Hotel,  which  is  substantially  built  and 
comfortably  furnished  ;  has  two  Otis's  hydraulic  passenger  elevators,  gas, 
and  electric  bells  or  Creighton's  Oral  Annunciator  in  all  rooms;  water; 
rooms  for  bath,  including  Hot  Sea,  and  closets  on  every  floor,  with  the 
most  perfect  system  of  drainage  of  any  hotel  or  public  building  in  the 
country.  And  as  a  resort  for  the  pleasure-seeker,  invalid,  or  resting  place 
for  tourists  on  their  way  to  Florida  or  the  North,  this  house,  with  ac- 
commodations for  about  nine  hundred  guests,  presents  inducements  which 
certainly  are  not  equaled  elsewhere  as  a  summer  resort  or  cold  weather 
sanitarium.  Has  during  the  cold  weather  over  15,000  square  feet  of 
the  spacious  verandas  (of  which  there  are  over  35,000  square  feet  en- 
circling the  house  on  all  sidjs)  incased  in  glass,  enabling  the  most  delicate 
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temperature  of  60  deg.,  74  deg.,  76  deg.  in  summer;  70  deg  ,  59  deg.,  40 
deg.  in  autumn;  45  deg.,  44  deg.,  42  deg.  in  winter;  and  4S  dig.,  52 
deg.,  63  deg.  for  spring — the  invigorating  atnicsphcre  aiul  mild  tempera- 
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comparative  freedom  from  social  restraints  fostered  individuality  and  incUpfn- 
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an  original  investigator  in  this  department ;  all  that  he  gives  us  is  treated  with 
a  master-hand." — The  JSiatmi. 

ANIMAL  LIFE,  as  afi"ected  by  the  Natural  Conditions  of  Existence.  By 
Karl  Semper,  Professor  of  the  University  of  Wiirzburg.  With  2  Maps 
and  106  Woodcuts,  and  Index.    12mo,  cloth,  $2.00. 

"  This  is  in  many  respects  one  of  the  most  interesting  contributions  to 
zoological  literature  which  has  appeared  for  some  time. '"—Nature. 

THE  ATOMIC  THEORY.  By  Ad.  Wttrtz.  Membre  de  Vlnstitut ;  Doyen 
Honoraire  de  la  Faculte  de  Medecine ;  Professeur  a  la  Faculte  des  Sciences 
de  Paris.  Translated  by  E.  Cleminshaw,  M.  A.,  F.C.  S.,  F.  I.  C,  Assist 
ant  Master  at  Sherborne  School.    12mo,  cloth,  $1.50. 

"  There  was  need  for  a  book  like  this,  which  discusses  the  atomic  theory  hoth 
in  its  historic  evolution  and  in  its  present  form.  And  perhaps  no  man  of  this 
age  could  have  been  selected  so  able  to  perform  the  task  in  a  masterly  way  as 
the  illustrious  French  chemist,  Adolph  Wiirtz.  It  is  impossible  to  convey  to  the 
reader,  in  a  notice  like  this,  any  adequate  idea  of  the  scope,  lucid  instructiveness, 
and  scientific  interest  of  Professor  Wurtz's  bock.  The  modern  problems  of 
chemistry,  which  are  commonly  so  obscure  from  imperfect  exposition,  are  here 
made  wonderfully  clear  and  attractive." — The  Popular  Science  Monthly. 

THE  CRAYTISH.  An  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  ZoSlogy.  By  Professor 
T.  H.  Huxley,  F.  R.  S.    With  82  Illustrations.    12mo,  cloth,  $1.75. 

"  Whoever  will  follow  these  pages,  crayfish  in  hand,  and  will  try  to  verify  for 
himself  the  statements  which  they  contain,  will  find  himself  brought  face  to  face 
with  all  the  trreat  zoological  questions  which  excite  so  lively  an  interest  at  the 
present  day." 

"  The  reader  of  this  valuable  monograph  will  lay  it  down  with  a  feeling  of 
wonder  at  the  amount,  and  variety  of  matter  which  has  been  got  out  of  so  seem- 
ingly slight  and  unpretending  a  subject."— ;6'a^«/-(/ny  Review. 

D.  APPLETON   &   CO.,  Publishers, 

1,  3,  »fc  5  Bond  Street,  New  York. 


Scientific  Publications. 


THE  HUMAN  SPECIES.  By  A.  De  Quatrepages,  Professor  of  Anthro- 
pology ill  the  Museum  of  Katural  History,  Paris.    12ino,  cloth,  $2.00. 

The  work  treats  of  the  unity,  origin,  antiquity,  and  original  localization  of 
the  human  species,  peopling  of  tlie  globe,  acclimatization,  primitive  man,  forma- 
tion of  the  human  races,  fossil  human  races,  present  human  races,  and  the  physi- 
cal and  psychological  characters  of  mankind. 

MODERN  CHROMATICS.  With  Applications  to  Art  and  Industry.  With 
130  Original  Illustrations,  and  Frontispiece  in  Colors.  By  Ogden  N.  Uood 
Professor  of  Physics  in  Columbia  College.    12mo,  cloth,  $2.00.  ' 

"In  this  interesting  book  Professor  Rood,  who,  as  a  distinsriiished  Professor 
of  Physics  in  Columbia  College,  United  States,  must  be  accepted  as  a  competent 
authority  on  the  branch  of  science  of  which  he  treats,  deals  briefly  and  succinctly 
with  what  may  be  termed  the  scientific  rationale  of  his  subject".  But  the  chief 
value  of  his  work  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that  he  is  himself  an  accom- 
plished arti-t  as  well  as  an  authoritative  expounder  of  f^cXcwce.''— Edinburgh 
Eeriew,  October,  1S79,  in  an  article  on  ■'  The  Philosophy  of  Color" 

EDUCATION  AS  A  SCIENCE.  By  Alexander  Bain,  LL.  D.  12mo,  cloth, 
$1.75. 

"  This  work  must  be  pronounced  the  most  remarkable  discussion  of  educa- 
tional problems  which  has  been  published  in  our  day.  We  do  not  hesitate  to 
bespeak  for  it  the  widest  circulation  and  the  most  earnest  attention.  It  should 
be  in  the  hands  of  every  school-teacher  and  friend  of  education  throughout  the 
land."— A'«w  York  Sun. 

A  HISTORY  OF  THE   GROWTH   OF  THE   STEAM-ENGINE.     By 

Robert  II.  Thurston,  A.M.,  C.  E.,  Professor  of  Mechanical  Engineering 
in  the  Stevens  Institute  of  Technology,  Hobokon,  N.  J.,  etc.  With  163 
Illustrations,  including  15  Portraits.    12mo,  cloth,  $2.50. 

"  Professor  Thurston  almost  exhausts  his  subject ;  details  of  mechanism  are 
i'ollowed  by  interesting  bioirraphies  of  the  more  important  inventors.  If.  ns  is 
contended,  the  steam  engine  is  the  most  important  physical  agent  in  civilizing 
the  world,  its  history  is  a  desideratum,  and  the  readers  of  the  present  work  will 
agree  that  it  could  have  a  no  more  amusing  and  intelligent  historian  than  our 
author."— I?oa\'ow  Gazette. 

STUDIES  IN  SPECTRUM  ANALYSIS.  By  J.  Nohman  Locktek.  F.  R.  S  , 
Correspondent  of  the  Institute  of  Franci',  etc.  With  CO  Ilhistrations.  12mo, 
cloth,  $-i.5ii. 

"The  study  of  spectrum  analysis  is  one  fraught  with  a  peculiar  fascination, 
and  some  of  the  author's  experiments  are  exceeoingly  picturesque  in  their  re- 
sults. They  are  so  lucidly  described,  too,  that  the  reader  keeps  on.  from  i)age 
to  pase.  nevnr  fliL'trins  in  interest  in  the  matter  befori-  him,  nor  putting  down 
the  book  until  tlie  last  page  is  reached."— Atic  York  Ereniiiij  Exi.res.<. 

D.   APPLETON    &   CO.,   Publishers, 

1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Stkekt,  New  York. 


Scientific  Publications, 


TEXT-BOOK  OF  SYSTEMATIC  3IIXERALOGY.  By  IIenuy  Bauke 
MAN,  F.  G.  S.,  Associate  of  the  Royal  School  of  Miiiep.  (New  volume  in 
the  "Text-Books  of  Science  Series.")    IGino,  cloth.   Price,  $2. £0. 

ANTHROPOLOGY:  An  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Man  and  Civilization. 
By  Edward  B.  Ttlor,  D.  C.  L.,  F.  U.S.,  author  of  "Primitive  Culture," 
"The  Early  History  of  Mankind,"  etc.  With  78  Illustrations.  12mo. 
With  Index.    Cloth,  $2.00. 

"Mr.  Tylor's  admirable  little  hook  certainly  deserves  the  success  with  which 
it  will  doubtless  mcel."— Fall  Mall  Gazette. 

SCIENTIFIC  CULTURE,  AND  OTHER  ESSAYS.  By  Joseph  Paesons 
Cooke,  Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Mineralogy  in  Harvard  College.  One 
vol.,  square  16mo,  cloth.    Price,  $1.0J. 

POPULAR  LECTURES  ON  SCIENTIFIC   SUBJECTS.    By  H.  Helm 

uoLTZ,  Professor  of  Physics  at  the  University  of  Berlin.    Second  Series. 
12mo,  cloth,  $1.50. 

The  favor  wHh  which  the  first  scries  of  Professor  Helmholtz's  lectures  was 
received  justifies,  if  a  justification  is  needed,  the  publication  of  the  present 
volume. 

THE  POWER  OF  MOVEMENT  IN  PLANTS.  By  Charlks  Dakwix, 
LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.,  assisted  by  Francis  Darwin.  Wiih  Illustrations.  12mo, 
cloth,  $2.00. 

"  Mr.  Darwin's  latest  study  of  plant-life  shows  no  abatement  of  his  power  of 
work  or  his  habits  of  fresh  and  original  observation.  We  have  liarned  to  expect 
from  him  at  intervals,  never  much  prolonged,  the  results  of  special  research  in 
some  by-path  or  other  subordinated  to  the  main  course  of  tlie  biological  system 
associated  with  his  name;  and  it  has  been  an  unfailins  source  of  inter;'st  to  see 
the  central  ideas  of  the  evolution  and  the  continuity  of  life  developed  in  detail 
through  a  series  of  special  treatises,  each  wellnigh  exhaustive  of  the  materials 
available  for  its  bvCo^ocV— Saturday  Review. 

A  PHYSICAL  TREATISE  ON  ELECTRICITY  ANI)  MAGNETISM. 

By  J.  E.  II.  GoRiJON,  B.  A.,  Assistnnt  Secretary  of  the  British  Association. 
With  about  230  fall-page  and  other  Illustrations.    2  vols.,  Svo,  cloth,  $7.00. 

"  Wo  welcome  most  heartily  Mr.  Oordnrrs  valuable  contribution  to  the  experimen- 
tal side  of  the  science.  It  at  once  takes  its  place  ainonir  the  books  with  which  every 
investig.itor  and  every  teacher  who  goes  beyond  the  merest  rudiments  must  needs 
equip  himself.  There  is  certainly  no  hook  in  English — we  think  there  is  none  in  any 
other  language — which  covers  quite  the  same  irround.  It  records  the  most  recent  ad- 
vances in  the  experimental  treatment  of  electrical  problems,  it  describes  with  minute 
carefulness  the  instruments  and  methods  in  use  in  physical  laboratories,  .ind  is  prodi- 
gal of  beautifully  executed  diagrams  and  drawings  made  to  scale.' — London  Times. 

D.   APPLETON  &  CO.,  Publishers, 

1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street,  New  York. 


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